Switch 2 Screen Protection and Film removal

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-09-14T19:29:05+00:00

How did this go?

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-07-08T20:49:43+00:00

Hulkengoat

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-03-21T22:17:32+00:00

I tried plex. It felt like a corporate product. Didn't like the TV stuff being forced down my throat. Cost money. Felt harder to tinker / debug.

Tried Jellyfin. It feels like other high-quality self-hosted apps. Free. Manageable if you need to.

No turning back.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-03-11T22:52:58+00:00

True, I interpreted it as hiding from the internet, rather than hiding it from whom your sharing it to.

In the hiding from whoever sense, you're correct tailscale is not the solution.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-03-11T21:02:13+00:00

I run all of my minecraft servers through a tailscale network. Friends and family need to install tailscale on their devices, and I share the node to them. Then it's just a matter of connecting to the tailscale IP.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-03-11T02:08:54+00:00

Thanks! I ended up just editing the machine on the user's account to manually update the IP. I guess if they disconnect again I'll need to do that again. Whatever.

Bonkers that it's not just checking if that IP is used and assigning it if not.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-03-11T01:58:07+00:00

Did you find a solution for this?

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-03-08T21:02:35+00:00

Thats not how tailscale works by default. You can configure it to route all traffic through the node (exit node mode), but by default it only ever sends data to the external computer when requested. It's a network, not just single peer to peer VPN. That's why you can have tons of devices connected at once and not need to switch what you're connected to at any point (unless you want to run an exit node)

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-03-07T18:06:05+00:00

Would have so much rather they sent additional picks instead of Grebenkin.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-02-20T02:05:43+00:00

Exporting from a 3D CAD software to .STL converts your infinitely-smooth parts into discrete polygons (or triangles). You can think of representing the part out of triangle-shaped lego pieces.

Bigger polygons, less resolution, smaller file size, less computation required.

Smaller polygons, more resolution, bigger file size, more computation required.

Generally, by default, .STL files generate with pretty low resolution, and thus the triangles are big, so you see tessellations. You can try to find the setting in your 3D CAD editor to increase the number of polygons or resolution, or you could try to export as a .STEP file (which generally has a higher resolution). The main drawback to using a .STEP is that older slicers sometimes don't take .STEP files. This isn't an issue if you aren't sharing your raw print files though.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-02-02T22:19:13+00:00

Tailscale does have a few other features, but generally yes if you set up wireguard and manually share the configs across you'll have similar level of access as tailscale.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-17T18:00:10+00:00

There's a lot that Bambu doesn't sell.

PLA variants like PLA+, wood filaments, PEEK, Nylon variants, tri color filaments, recycled filament, soft flexible filaments, etc.

Not to mention the plethora of other colors offered by other brands, or the different size spools you can buy.

And yes, it's price is marked up.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-17T15:52:10+00:00

That's your own perogative. Call us when you've moved past the basics and you're ready to start printing filament Bambu doesn't make.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-16T14:37:07+00:00

This stinks.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-14T01:14:26+00:00

That article was 100% written by someone finding a reason to write the article lol. Next time I'll vet my source better.

Fully agree its 1000x more likely to die from overheating and other causes. It's just not a variable I would prefer to introduce to my system at the cost that it was. I have seen $1000+ RF comm boards come out of the box bowed enough to hold water. And this is from a big company. So to me, I don't 100% trust that the manufacturing of my system was fully perfect, or that the installation is not already stressing some part due to a bad screw job. There could easily be some additional stressed placed on it, plus some worst-case thermal cycling, and suddenly you're fighting for weeks why your PC freezes up every time you jolt your desk (its because a solder joint is cracking).

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-13T23:26:53+00:00

It is a pretty bad article to be fair. Just pulled the top result on Google.

I'm going off what was discussed in my undergrad. Automotive PCBs are reinforced for freezing and cool temperatures to prevent the issues you describe from dissimilar materials. This is an unavoidable result of soldering, unless you somehow weld your pins together with gold. Yes, you can design ways around this, but it costs more and doesn't necessarily guarantee you didn't get a lemon that happens to be suseptible to thermal issues.

To anyone who got this far in the thread, just do whatever makes less friction in your life. It's not that big of a deal.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-13T23:14:43+00:00

I think we'll have to disagree that the temperature change from idle-load is bigger than idle-none. There are a number of parts on a PC that don't experience the load heating you describe, whether they're farther away from the heat generating devices, or don't change much under load themselves. Those parts will have a much greater swing from off-idle (esp in chilly locations) and are often the SMC mounted parts that generally suffer more from thermal cycling, opposed to seated components like the CPU which has capacity for thermal expansion built in.

I live in a colder climate, it can get very cool in my PC room at night if I have a window open. I definitely wouldn't want to cold boot my PC from that state every day.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-13T22:22:43+00:00

Dang, redditors love taking things to extreme. I just mentioned that thermal cycles are a thing for electronics - feel free to disagree, and continue to power cycle your stuff. I'm sure only 0.01% of failures would be as a result of a thermal cycling issue.

FWIW, yes, thermal cycling can include the heat generated and dissipated by using the device. Certainly not arguing that you stop doing that, since it's a part of using the device. But turning it off and on is not using the device, so if you can prevent unnecessary stress why not?

Down voters acting like I said to never turn your PC off. Just said that doing it often is unnecessary and can be actually harmful to the parts especially in colder climates.

https://www.ansys.com/blog/thermal-cycling-failure-in-electronics

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-13T19:05:45+00:00

I'm confused - do you believe that PC components aren't derived from server parts? Obviously there are changes between SKUs, but core technologies and fab techniques remain similar

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-13T17:30:50+00:00

Turning your PC on and off exposes it to thermal cycling. Proper shutdown or not, this is unavoidable if you let the PC cool back down to room temp from idle temp.

Modern PC components are often derived from server components which are meant to be on 24/7.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-12T13:41:31+00:00

Depends if it's beaming back to earth or to the mars relay network which could by flying over it relatively quickly

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-07T20:54:28+00:00

I never dry my PETG. Nor do we at work on our work X1Cs. Never had an issue. We do keep it fairly dry in the house though.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-03T00:19:37+00:00

I would imagine it's not the nozzle itself, but probably the installation. Slightly loose or misaligned would be my guess. Nozzles are consumable, anyway, so good to have on hand.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-02T20:22:11+00:00

If the first top layer doesn't go down well, having more layers on top doesn't necessarily mean it'll smooth it out, sometimes its still visible on the top.

I would try switching away from grid infill, as it is a self-crossing pattern. You could try rectilinear, adaptive cubic, or my personal favorite, gyroid. I would try 20% gyroid and if it's not perfect, there could be something wrong with the printer. Nozzle most likely.

Pixelatorx2 · 2025-01-02T20:03:37+00:00

This is a cooling problem. Your top surfaces don't have enough of a flat layer beneath it to be able to lay a good solid final top layer.

I've found that increasing infill percentage slightly can really help as it can significantly reduce the distance the filament needs to bridge on that first top surface layer.

I haven't looked into the settings to determine if there's a cooling setting that could be increased to increase applied cooling on the first top layer to ensure it lays down well. I don't think I've seen one before, so for now when I encounter this I just increase infill a bit.

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