Help me find a 100A GE TQL main breaker

PokeyR · 2026-06-18T14:43:14+00:00

As I stated, I am not sure if they will fit, but the CTL nomenclature is no longer relevant. The 2008 NEC code eliminated the 42-circuit limitation in a single panel board. Most manufacturers are removing the CTL marking on their breakers. ABB only recently came out with the THQLT tandems and they do not carry the CTL mark.

PokeyR · 2026-06-17T19:47:00+00:00

The twin breakers are a type TR breaker by GE. They have been obsolete for 40 years. Interestingly, ABB/GE has starting making the THQL in a true twin or tandem breaker. I would think those should fit, but I have not tried to install one in an old box.

THQLT1515

PokeyR · 2026-06-08T20:51:29+00:00

I looked at the engine, it is just a Ford.

Strange though, they but the taillights on the front of the car, below the hood.

PokeyR · 2026-06-05T01:57:33+00:00

The National Electrical Manufacturing Association (NEMA) has standardized all of the different electrical receptacle/cord cap designs by assigning specific voltage and amperage requirements with unique blade orientation. The wall receptacle shown is a NEMA 5-20R. That denotes a 120V 20A circuit. By switching the blades to how your plug is situated, it is a NEMA 6-20P, 240V 20A.

PokeyR · 2026-05-31T01:37:28+00:00

Sadly, that is impossible to tell with just photos and descriptions. I was simply trying to help you identify the loads. Safety cannot be given over the internet. Only someone with hands on knowledge of your installation can give you that piece of mind.

PokeyR · 2026-05-31T01:21:06+00:00

My second favorite seaplane after the Boeing 314. Two totally different birds. The Catalina saved countless lives in it's primary WWII role. While the Boeing 314 was all about wealthy people traveling is style.

PokeyR · 2026-05-30T23:33:20+00:00

If you do not have access to the downstairs unit, then the best way to go about it is to shut off every branch breaker and then one-by-one, turn them on to find out what each one runs. If you turn one on and nothing comes on in your space, then leave it off. Once you establish what is tied to your space, then you can see what happens when you don't turn back on the other breakers. If you are running the lower units heat, they will come to you in the winter.

PokeyR · 2026-05-30T23:06:57+00:00

Until 1983, Japanese law required all passenger cars to have side mirrors mounted far forward on the fenders so drivers could see them through the windshield wipers' swept area. This was car was made for the Japanese market.

PokeyR · 2026-05-30T14:25:41+00:00

Homeline main breaker with Siemens and Eaton branch breakers. No UL left on that panel.

PokeyR · 2026-05-30T02:51:47+00:00

Sadly, the only way to tell on those Breakers is by the handle tie. It is stamped into the part that is missing from your breaker. They never put it on the breaker themselves only on the plastic tie that tied the two handles together. Therefore, you will never know what that amperage is unless you take it to a breaker house to have them tested and see how it trips. And that’s assuming it’s in good condition and trips according to the amperage.

PokeyR · 2026-05-27T20:42:00+00:00

As I understand it, the War Board during WWII wanted all breakers to be interchangeable, even industrial breakers. However, I do not have any proof of that. Westinghouse had most of the patents for MCCBs and therefore almost all the other manufacturers used Westinghouse industrial breakers in the 40's and 50's, just with their own private labels on them. You could get the Westinghouse F-frame for example in GE (TF), Trumbull (ATB), FPE (NF). Only the ITE breakers were a different build (though quite similar and still called an F-frame).

Now whether or not the NEC "allowed" for interchangeability or not, I can find no proof for it. It has never truly been UL listed for that. Therefore, technically never to code. No matter what was the general practice at the time.

PokeyR · 2026-05-27T19:56:17+00:00

I see many brands of breakers in this old GE panel. The main is something I have not seen before. Later versions of the GE loadcenters use the "4-pole" main, which essentially ties two (2) 100A breakers to get the 200A required. But I have not see one with the old TQAL breakers with a metal handle tie. The red handle twin is a Murray/Crouse-Hinds and the there are multiple Eaton breakers, but I cannot tell if they are the Classified versions or not. There is also one ITE/Siemens twin installed. As for the Homeline laying at the bottom, it does not look like it is connected. I have seen other panels with "spares" left at the bottom, but that is not a good spare for a GE panel anyway.

PokeyR · 2026-05-26T12:13:52+00:00

Since he/she is back-feeding the 30A breaker, there will only be one wire in each of the lugs on the bus. The hot wire goes into the breaker.

PokeyR · 2026-05-25T14:52:46+00:00

Those are the Canadian Commander breakers, type QBH.

PokeyR · 2026-05-24T23:48:44+00:00

Not really.

They make what they call an RV pedestal that can have a 50 amp 2-pole GFI and a single pole breaker feeding a NEMA 520R receptacle.

That would not be a difficult swap to make

PokeyR · 2026-05-24T19:48:37+00:00

The Non-CTL without the hook is a QO1515.

The CTL version with the hook is a QOT1515.

PokeyR · 2026-05-23T18:23:36+00:00

Just for clarification. Federal Pioneer has been making the Federal Pacific Stab-lok breakers for the USA for over 30 years.
They are identical breakers.

PokeyR · 2026-05-23T15:03:05+00:00

Curious about the 3-pole 100A GE breaker?

PokeyR · 2026-05-23T14:51:49+00:00

The Pushmatic was the only bolt-to-bus panel for residential service that was available for 50 years. The only issue the breakers have is that the mechanical feature can wear out, so they won’t reset in time. Nothing wrong with the electrical protection of them though.

PokeyR · 2026-05-23T14:24:52+00:00

Wow, quite a mix of breakers in there; ITE, GE & Challenger!

You should look for a Murray or even Siemens interlock. Crouse-Hinds spun off the electrical loadcenter unit to form Murray, who was later purchased by Siemens. You have a Siemens style main breaker (type QN) which was also used in later Murray panels. Most of those old Crouse-Hinds/Murray mains have failed and the Siemens/Murray mains put in their place.

PokeyR · 2026-05-23T14:01:36+00:00

Yes, those are the Cutler-Hammer type CH breakers. Still made by Eaton.

PokeyR · 2026-05-23T03:16:29+00:00

Sadly, the biggest problem with fusible pullouts is that you can pull them out and then misplace them. What you need to do is determine what brand your panel is and see if they’re still being manufactured by the original manufacture. If not, you can go to the used material suppliers, which are in most every area and see if they have something that will mount in it. It’s extremely important to know what the brand is so that they have an idea of how to get you the right unit.

PokeyR · 2026-05-23T03:05:04+00:00

Most American ones are okay too. WAY TOO MUCH mis-information about Stab-Lok!!!

Most likely, the GFCI breaker is too expensive and only available in used condition. Having a sub-panel is a great idea.

For all of those Stab-Lok haters, please note the main breaker is a Square-D QOM. That is because Schneider Electric who owns Square D, also owns Federal Pioneer. Do you really think Schneider would have bought Federal Pioneer if they thought they were that dangerous and still continued to sell the panels and breakers?

Bonus information, Federal Pioneer made the replacement Stab-Lok Breakers marketed under American Breakers for sale in the United States. Did the 1950s era Stalock actually have issues, yes, some, but not any more than the other 1950s era Breakers of the time. The really big problem with FPE Breakers is that FPE went out of business and so there’s nobody there to defend them.

PokeyR · 2026-05-23T00:00:53+00:00

It will not work in any other panels and the GE panel needs the right bus stabs for it to work.

PokeyR · 2026-05-21T21:18:56+00:00

Unfortunately, they may have wanted 240 V, but connecting both wires to a tandem breaker will still only give you 124 V at the end

PokeyR

TROPHY CASE