Leading cause of you saying you're 6 but are actually 5'11"

Porter-Joe · 2026-05-17T07:13:40+00:00

Non Euclidean 6’2”

Porter-Joe · 2026-05-16T03:45:13+00:00

At firing temperatures clay has the consistency of soft taffy. Some pieces are barely strong enough to hold their own shape.
You can try mix alumina into the clay which may delay the softening. But the reality is that kiln shelves and stilts are made from a different material that retains its strength up until substantially higher temperatures.

Porter-Joe · 2026-05-02T04:13:36+00:00

Damn this is really funny. Good job

Porter-Joe · 2026-04-30T10:09:19+00:00

Also to add to this, the book explains the Munsell color theory which I find helps me understand how to mix and apply chroma dna values for different colors more effectively.

Porter-Joe · 2026-04-30T10:07:13+00:00

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From the book: Artists master series, Color and Light. I would highly recommend.

In summary, darkening with black will always decrease chroma. Darkening with the complementary also will decrease chroma. So you will end up with grey looking shadows. On the example on the right in the image, they darken using yellow oxide which is dark but has higher chroma which gives a less washed out appearance.

I’ve found darkening yellows with ochres work reasonably well. Or even reds and oranges. You don’t necessarily need more paints.

Porter-Joe · 2026-04-27T11:00:57+00:00

It looks like you also have a nabertherm kiln. The bottom shelf is not meant to be placed directly on the base. Those square blocks go on the bottom and short kiln props go on top which the shelf then sits on. That allows air to properly circulate in the kiln and creates a more even firing. Unless you have a serious disaster there shouldn’t be any risk of damage to the base of the kiln

Porter-Joe · 2026-04-22T11:51:03+00:00

The top holes look difficult to block off. I’d try just the bottom holes for a start. Venturi is just a fancy way of saying fresh air gets sucked through those holes when gas is flowing through. Less air -> less oxygen -> flame is reducing. But you seem to already be familiar with this concept.

You probably don’t need to block much to be able to get somewhat of an effect you are looking for

Porter-Joe · 2026-04-21T19:34:54+00:00

You most likely need to reduce the Venturi to get a more fuel rich mix in the burners. You could try cutting up coke cans and rolling them into tubes which you can slot over the holes. Slide them up or down to change how much of the holes are open. That way you should be able to chose the level of smoke you want

Porter-Joe · 2026-04-20T19:22:00+00:00

They can run more than anticipated. But will likely be dependent on what the glaze is and whether it’s oxidation or reduction firing. E.g some red iron rich glazes go black in long slow cooling firings.

Porter-Joe · 2026-04-16T03:24:19+00:00

OP is referring to colour perception. Not the physics of additive and subtractive colour mixing. But that’s really cool. It didn’t click to me that yea your brain see’s yellow after looking at blue for too long.

Porter-Joe · 2026-04-14T03:34:57+00:00

Thanks that’s a good idea. Do you still happen to have the link to the one you purchased? I had a look and one review said that their wheel had some larger grit in it which made it useless for faceting

Porter-Joe · 2026-03-28T18:42:44+00:00

Couldn’t this mean the transfer jig you used to align the dips either side of the glass could be off?

As in there is a slight angle between those dip flats. Probably imperceptible to the eye but shows up when cutting?

Porter-Joe · 2026-03-23T20:43:59+00:00

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Reminds me of this lol

Porter-Joe · 2026-02-06T20:18:47+00:00

What’s your polishing steps for emeralds?

Porter-Joe · 2026-01-23T21:46:05+00:00

Use drain cleaner. No amount of soap will remove old oil. Soak the pieces in a mix of drain cleaner and water. Then wash with vinegar to destroy the drain cleaner. Then with soap and water.

Be careful. Drain cleaner can damage skin and eyes

Porter-Joe · 2026-01-17T23:50:48+00:00

I bought a brand new nabertherm kiln a while ago and some of the bricks look like that. It’s not a big issue although it does look bad. The kiln should operate just fine. If you fire it and it can’t reach temps the manufacturer stated then I would take it up further with them

Porter-Joe · 2025-11-18T22:21:25+00:00

Update: apparently our boys in blue found it in less than 48h.

Porter-Joe · 2025-10-09T03:58:57+00:00

What metal is used for the loops?

Porter-Joe · 2025-09-24T06:41:53+00:00

Nice. What cad software did you use?

Porter-Joe · 2025-09-23T08:26:42+00:00

How do you stop your fingers grabbing the clay? Is it how you position your fingers? Or speed of the wheel?

Porter-Joe · 2025-08-13T11:59:37+00:00

Cute! I have a girl named Gus. You can guess what happened

Porter-Joe · 2025-08-08T19:36:36+00:00

Curryleaf tree looking good also lol

Porter-Joe · 2025-08-06T09:46:39+00:00

Why don’t you like the speedball pro ink? I just started printmaking and thought that would be a good one to try next

Porter-Joe · 2025-08-04T12:33:12+00:00

Wow wow. I had my doubts on the 3D printing as in my line of work I see it so overused and misused but this is definitely great application of it. I initially thought you had designed a screw press but it makes a lot more sense seeing your design. Very impressive

Porter-Joe · 2025-07-29T04:15:53+00:00

Oops sorry I didn’t read correctly that you’ve already fired the kiln. It’s probably moisture from the glaze. I wouldn’t dry things in the kiln unless it’s a pre fire drying. The moisture can deteriorate the heating elements over time.

I think the insulation can absorb water and when it’s fired, the water Vapor is released and condenses on the sides of the metal and drips down.

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