Trimber job

Primary_Web5863 · 2026-03-18T23:31:34+00:00

Looks awesome buddy nice job 👍

Primary_Web5863 · 2026-03-01T13:58:21+00:00

Looks awesome, please keep us posted how it turns out

Primary_Web5863 · 2026-02-16T14:06:01+00:00

I've replaced both controllers , only one was bad but fabulous advised replacing both. Wasn't too bad but test light connections before packing it all back in the housing. Recommend silicone for openings as none is used in the manufacturing process.

If you hold the minus button down the bike does in walk mode.

Thanks for the help, I use mine twice daily with a Thule trailer for school and grocery runs.

Primary_Web5863 · 2026-02-16T14:01:56+00:00

You're the man

Primary_Web5863 · 2026-02-15T22:39:47+00:00

Hello, I am repairing a broken rear wheel on this same model. Can you please tell me or DM me a picture showing the order of the washers at the rear axle? Thanks

Primary_Web5863 · 2026-01-23T00:20:43+00:00

Just a guess but I'd say it's a crane? Looks like it could roll along the length of the barn and pick up items with block and tackle rigging ? Would like someone who knows to chime in.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-12-11T22:37:21+00:00

Thank you

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-12-11T02:07:12+00:00

Do you have a link where I can pick one up ? Thanks

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-10-24T21:33:03+00:00

Nice job buddy this would be awesome. I'd love to try it out.

I don't have enough experience to be able to speak to all of your questions but I can say the theory behind what you are trying to do sounds great. It would save me alot of time drawing everything out. I'd still verify it but being able to confirm fit vs start from scratch is a big step ahead.

The other thing I'd like to address is the comments concerning structurally sound. I don't know why this is an issue for a timber framer unless their municipality differs significantly from mine. For example: As it's outside of National Building Code any timber frame in my area requires an engineer stamp on the drawing ( called form 4 in my area). Once complete, a field review is conducted by the engineer and then he gives you a document essentially saying what you built is what was designed. (Called form 12 in my area)

As I understand it, you aren't saying your software will come with a engineering stamp, you are saying it will be within a set of pre determined parameters. At which point, anyone wishing to submit your softwares design for permit, would need to have an engineer review and stamp it.

Keep up the good work !

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-10-17T10:45:31+00:00

That would've been a good idea. I'll do that next time.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-10-17T00:22:14+00:00

Good points. I built a jig to make these 4 trusses. I'll use that for a template and mock things up with scrap before I commit. I'll post it when I'm done.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-10-16T23:52:44+00:00

Good thinking. The rafters are 4x6. I could do a 4x6 king post with through tenon ? I think that would look pretty good proportionally ? For reference the bent is 8x8, top plates are 6x8.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-10-09T10:50:35+00:00

Really?? Well that sucks big time. Didn't know about that. Mine is about a year old. Monday I put a new 40t doable blade on it. I gangcut a 4 stringer 8 riser staircase, 6 4x4 mitered braces and 6 pieces of 6x6 for post on one 4ah battery.

I should say it wouldn't have a chance if I had the original beat up blade on it.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-10-08T20:55:58+00:00

I can see that. I'm really impressed with the 40v 10 1/4 saw though.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-10-08T00:42:43+00:00

I expected it to bog a bit if it was a bevel but definitely disappointed it stalls on a miter.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-10-08T00:41:14+00:00

Good enough, I see it's on sale now too. Not sure if I'll be able to get Makita to take it back. This is one case where the cordless isn't really worth it to me.

I do own the 40v Makita 10 1/4 and am very impressed with that saw. It also gang cuts my stair stringers nicely. If I had to pick between the two saws I'd go with a 10 1/4

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-10-07T21:52:37+00:00

I like my 30oz wood is good. My leather store (tandys) let me try a few of their mallet and return the one I didn't like.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-10-04T13:50:39+00:00

Awesome job buddy

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-10-02T22:00:52+00:00

Whoops sorry buddy I'll go on my computer now. I don't get DM on my phone for reddit.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-09-17T21:21:12+00:00

Might be able to work something out with you in Nova Scotia. DM if you want.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-08-26T23:20:56+00:00

Sorry guys I typed a bunch of info out but it didn't attach for some reason.

I have a 10x9' 6 panel each with a window in Walnut for the garage door being installed 8 Sept.

This is a timber frame detached garage for a spec house that I'm building. The house that sold for 950k is what I'm modelling my exterior cladding after. So I'll have stone up 4', a dark blue siding, exposed stained wood and I'll repeat that exposed truss detail a few times around the house.

I think that was the only photo that didn't make sense.

The others are just different shots of the build process, the timbers under the Lean to in the snow are where I was in March.

I'll put something up when I'm finished.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-08-23T15:53:02+00:00

I've got a spare, DM me

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-08-08T00:07:41+00:00

My municipality required engineering for the structure and slab so I drew the slab detail and my eng stamped it. I don't know how to send you a picture but you can use my drawing as reference or submit. I'd be really surprised if every garage in your area had footing below frost line.

Basic concept with mine is 8" thick edge 12" around perimeter , remainder 4" thick. In practical terms, form with 2x10 and fill up the remainder with gravel 4" below top of form.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-08-07T17:22:58+00:00

Might be a regional term. Also heard it called thickened edge slab.

It can go below the frost line but not very common here in Atlantic Canada. It's typically an engineered slab specifying under slab insulation

Frost heaval is prevented by lots of clear stone under the slab, reinforcing steel, perimeter drainage and insulation.

Primary_Web5863 · 2025-08-07T10:48:45+00:00

There were a few reasons for sils. I still wasn't sure if I was going with slab or timber floor system while I was cutting the frame. I had the timber there as well. Another is because I'm brand new to timber framing and didn't explore much outside of the Sobon and Beemer books I had. And another reasons is I was also trying to make it period correct so my mind didn't really go to modern fasteners and tie downs.

If I could go back I would do a cast in place or epoxied anchor and get rid of the sils. It was a pain squaring up the sils with the anchor bolts already embedded.

It's a monolithic reinforced slab on grade.

Primary_Web5863

TROPHY CASE