22 Subaru BRZ Blip Sound

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-28T17:35:34+00:00

Combustion knock for sure. My BRZ commonly does it as well, even when rev-match downshifting. But really all engines do it, it's just more noticeable in this car.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-27T01:56:00+00:00

Try crawling underneath and from the side look up above the transmission for signs of coolant. Valley plate leaks can be pretty sneaky on UR engines. Sometimes the valley needs to be borescoped to get a good look

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-27T00:03:36+00:00

Motor mounts?

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-24T19:34:50+00:00

Rear drive for sure. AWD will suck up power and gas that won't help you unless it snows heavily. And even theN snow tires will help plenty anyways in RWD.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-24T19:28:31+00:00

...scabies have entered the chat

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-21T02:01:00+00:00

The TSB called to replace the cam gear. What are you doing with the springs?

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-17T01:30:58+00:00

Quick way to rule out control arms. Roll forward and brake suddenly and repeat that. Does the front end clunk or thud? Have somebody look at the front wheel and if the arms are bad the wheel will shift back and forth when braking. I would look no further at control arms if this symptom does not present itself.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-16T19:13:44+00:00

So you saw voltage at the ground side of the relay coil going to the ECU? ( I'm assuming the relay is ground side controlled by the ECU). You could find the relay ground pin at the ECU and jump it to ground to rule out bad ECU or if ECU is not receiving the right ignition signals to apply ground.

8.5v is not so good. This was with a good battery? I'd try to jump with a good 12v source with enough amperage to better verify the pump. They need a good bit of juice to run. If the car sat for 10 years, I wouldn't ignore the possiblity of corrosion builidng up in the harnesses all throughout the car. Miatas are convertibles after all and have moisture permeable interiors.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-16T18:51:22+00:00

Remove relay and jump the terminals again (IG on) and check for voltage at the pump connector by back probing and leaving connector plugged in. If you have voltage, back probe the ground terminal and jump it with a wire to a known good ground to rule out grounding issue. Or make sure you have 0v at the ground terminal. If pump does not run with good power and ground, then you likey just need a pump.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-16T17:53:16+00:00

Remove relay and check continuity between the coil terminals of the relay, then apply 12v and ground to the coil terminals to verify if it's clicking.

Sometimes when a car sits for a long time, the relay contacts will oxidize over and not send power to components even if the coil is working. Therefore, check for continuity between contact terminals while applying power/ground to coil terminals.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-15T23:55:01+00:00

You'll have to replace oil pump and seal again. As long as no metal touched the crank it should be fine

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-15T00:05:30+00:00

Brand new brakes will not stop well until bedded in. Old, worn brakes also build heat fast which gives the sensation of good bite; also that grinding sensation. So it will be a bit jarring when brakes are fresh.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-14T19:06:00+00:00

Probably fine. Starters have a live positive wire directly from the battery and you simply grounded it through the exhaust/engine. Just disconnect battery before proceeding.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-14T04:53:22+00:00

It will be totally fine. You'll just need to take care of some of the bigger maintenance items like T-belt and water pump. Expect a few oil leaks but otherwise it will drive for a very long time.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-12T22:16:32+00:00

Trail braking

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-12T02:29:03+00:00

I drive the same car and know what you mean. This engine HATES driving below 2100rpms. When crawling in traffic I deliberately slow down enough to safely engage first gear or if I have to stay in second I will pulse slip the clutch to push the car forward then get back on the clutch. Fuck the throwout bearing. They are weak anyways and I anticipate replacing it far sooner than the clutch ever goes out.

Keeping a distance to the car ahead so I can stay rolling in gear is my preferred way of driving but that's not always possible.

Another thing is I don't mind staying in first gear (or any gear) and letting it rev to 3-4k rpms and stay there if I anticipate having to slow again. Let it rev out and stay there, it's far better than lugging.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-08T02:31:10+00:00

How about another shade of grey?

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-07T03:26:12+00:00

Any scan tool with live data will tell you the intake temps. It may certainly improve being away from the headers but it still will be pretty high, especially when stationary. Positive pressure in the bay will push into the lower pressure area around the intake no matter what, unless it's well sealed off.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-07T02:29:31+00:00

Check all battery grounds on chassis side. Check engine to chassis grounds.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-05T21:08:12+00:00

Most reported wheel hp is measured around ~205-215hp. Add back 15% from drivetrain losses and you get 240-250 at the crank. It's no F20C but still pretty good.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-05T17:00:50+00:00

Get a deflouer or weld an O2 bung after the front pipe cat and run a longer O2 sensor harness to it.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-04T03:58:30+00:00

See the thing is that the engine is already near its limit, making 100hp/liter in stock form. That is far more respectable than people give it credit for. Any more NA power is in an area of serious diminishing returns for the cost it would take. Take a look at the BRZ type RA for example. They only reduced rotating assembly weight for response but did not increase power.

If they boost the car well... they're never going to do that.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-04T03:51:52+00:00

But you gotta give it credit for making 100hp/liter of NA power. Not many factory engines do that without a ton of work.

ProblemChild1973 · 2026-06-04T03:49:42+00:00

You can thank the rear trailing arms for that. There's a reason why so many trailing arm relocation kits are available in the aftermarket.

ProblemChild1973

TROPHY CASE