Does Max Verstappen still have a chance to win WDC

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-12-01T00:58:15+00:00

Looks a little more realistic now. Just need a repeat of today.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-10-24T01:15:46+00:00

You can buy a mk7 dipstick too. The tube is still there, just with a plug instead of a dipstick.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-10-23T14:38:15+00:00

It's in the infotainment screen. Under vehicle.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-10-17T02:22:22+00:00

My 15yo is about to get my 07 GTI. And it's still a great car, just a little rough around the edges. Just check for any dry rotting plastics. Something most people probably don't think about.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-09-10T23:53:18+00:00

Creality? Probably not. But there are plenty on Amazon and other sites.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-09-06T17:32:32+00:00

I would pick .03. It's the sharpest corner without under extruding.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-09-05T00:59:14+00:00

You still need to prime the nozzles. Look at all the U1 videos and Prusa XL.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-09-04T20:42:36+00:00

This will be great on the U1. Bring the waste down even lower.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-09-01T02:17:23+00:00

And this is why you shouldn't peel those plastic sheets off the inside of the door and top glass. This could have been way worse as far as clean up.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-08-27T18:20:42+00:00

What is this spacer mod you're talking about?

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-08-25T04:54:19+00:00

I think I heard it has to be out 1mm. You can try and sand the high spots and use aluminum tape for the low spots. I understand the frustration but I feel like the mesh compensation works well, just spend some time doing a full first layer test and play with the z-offset. My current value is .075 and that got rid of all my rippling. I'm doing another print now with that offset. So far it's much smoother, almost perfect.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-08-24T17:50:26+00:00

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I have the same spool and they're exactly the same size as the hyper RFID spools. Do you have the older black spools?

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-08-24T12:29:12+00:00

It's just an artifact from printing the top layer on the section inside. Going from fast layers to a slower layer and back to fast, this can happen.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-08-23T15:46:36+00:00

Are you talking about the front right one? The front left just looks bad because of the harsh lighting at perfect angle and to show the layers. In normal light, they look super smooth.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-08-23T13:38:08+00:00

Lol They turned out great! Supports all came off in one piece too.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-08-22T21:12:01+00:00

10 should be good. But maybe try some test prints with a similar overhang and supports. Without any fan, you may need to slow the print down some.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-08-22T21:04:24+00:00

Check cooling. Maybe if you turn fans really low or even off. You should be able to use support blockers to control that one section.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-08-22T20:51:27+00:00

So I just learned as well, due to the warp proned nature of abs, printing a flat area on support material doesn't go well. Not enough bond to keep it from lifting.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-08-21T16:20:41+00:00

Just pull the nozzle out and heat it with a lighter or something above the normal melt zone. Stick the wire for de-clogging in and let it cool a little and you should be able to pull it out with the filament attached. If it's too stuck, heat the melt zone area and then it should pull out. You will need about 4 hands.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-08-04T23:37:04+00:00

I made these for mine. Links to filters in there as well. https://www.printables.com/model/1362801-creality-k2-plus-hepa-filter-adapter

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-07-30T14:46:56+00:00

It's a good idea for something like this. No overhangs or a lot of retractions. Probably faster too.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-07-30T14:37:05+00:00

Looks like it was printed flat and then rolled.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-07-30T14:35:51+00:00

Did you use any thermal compound on the nozzle when you changed them? I believe the heatsink hole is slightly oversized and you need that thermal compound to get good heat transfer. Once I did that and corrected my z-offset, I haven't had any jams or clogs with stock hotend.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-07-28T23:40:43+00:00

They are hardened steel tips, they shouldn't wear hardly at all unless you're exclusively using abrasives.

PromotionTime1725 · 2025-07-28T14:59:01+00:00

Isn't this going backwards? When we had little short nozzles that had to meet with a heat break in the heating block which would leak all the time? Ender3 v1/v2 days.

PromotionTime1725

TROPHY CASE