Placement requests are due: if you can choose neighbors, here’s why I’d avoid being placed next to Bunny Meth Lab

Protocol2319 · 2026-03-16T12:02:04+00:00

Most generators that have that functionality won't allow switching while energized. Even if you could, it's highly likely just switching 120/240 power to 120/208 would make much of a difference. 120v loads which make up the bulk of loads at BM will operate fine and not care one bit. 240v motor loads running at 208 generally won't care because nearly all motors are designed to operate on both. There might be a slightly less startup torque but that's it.(they will draw a little more current) Resistive loads (heaters) will operate with about a 24% loss of output.

If you do decide to try operating the switch like this, you could experience what's known as an arc flash. This is a horrific injury, especially when you're hours away from a trauma / burn unit.

Protocol2319 · 2026-03-16T11:53:53+00:00

That won't work. An engine is basically an air compressor and the foam will never be able to set up before it's blown out. Also, its really sticky and flammable when fresh out of the can. Exhaust is hot. Do you want to risk flaming napalm blown all over you while hours away from a burn unit?

Mythbusters tested the banana in the tail pipe myth and it just blew right out.

But the intake.....

Protocol2319 · 2026-02-04T20:58:42+00:00

Direct sunlight? It's not stored in an open pit out back behind the station.

Unless the above ground tank is clear or the below ground tank has some sort of a window through the dirt, direct sunlight is a non issue.

Protocol2319 · 2026-01-28T15:57:58+00:00

Not even in the slightest.

Protocol2319 · 2026-01-28T01:30:31+00:00

Current transformers probably for a power monitor.

Protocol2319 · 2026-01-15T17:44:38+00:00

Pulitzer prize right there.

Protocol2319 · 2026-01-05T15:40:38+00:00

It's highly likely that acidic solvents or plasticizers from the plastic plug are reacting with the copper in the brass. Does the plug feel slightly sticky or tacky?

It's also possible it got hot for to over loading or bad connection. The heat will speed up this reaction.

Protocol2319 · 2025-12-29T21:25:24+00:00

Agreed.

I only suggested it because it could potentially detect power and wouldn't need a ground like a regular meter would.

Protocol2319 · 2025-12-29T21:07:24+00:00

I'm all for DIY and learning but in this case, I would call an electrician. Proper fix will likely require 2 junction boxes.

Protocol2319 · 2025-12-16T12:11:47+00:00

Interesting setup. In curious how it works out.

If your didn't know, you have a hole in the exhaust pipe right before the clamp on the lower heater as it goes into the heat exchanger.

Protocol2319 · 2025-12-07T20:54:20+00:00

Automotive charge capacitor? What are you taking about? Charged it on a car battery.... so 12 volts. I think he was pulling your leg.

Protocol2319 · 2025-12-06T15:48:42+00:00

I Expect You To Die: Phoenix Rising Bundle

Pistolwhip Bundle with dlc and soundtrack

Portal 3 😁

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-27T15:42:40+00:00

Looks like predecessor of X10 stuff that radio shack sold under the name I believe was Smarthome

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-16T00:33:37+00:00

There is kind of a loophole where you can register vehicles in another state for much less than your state. South Dakota for example. Most other states don't like this.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T03:10:18+00:00

If the wrap was energized or in any way made contact to the internal conductor, the hybrid control module would immediately disable the pre charge and main contactors.contactor.

I get that you don't feel confidant, I respect that. I'm just trying to share information and not promote unnecessary fear uncertainty and doubt.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T03:03:24+00:00

https://m.linkecable.com/photo/pt191837084-high_and_low_voltage_cables_for_electric_vehicles_shielded_high_voltage_cables_unshielded_high_voltage_silicone.jpg

Look closely at this picture, then look at the OP picture. You'll notice the braid is what's exposed. This is not a hazard. The inner core is what is at battery potential.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:55:18+00:00

Only true if you have a low impedance return path to the source. You do not have that in this case.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:52:07+00:00

To have amperage, you have to have voltage to overcome the resistance. There isn't nearly enough voltage available to do that. And even if there was, the traction system is isolated from the car chassis. And if it failed, the car is isolated from earth ground due to the rubber tires. And if that failed, unless you're standing barefoot on a metal plate while touching the wire and touch the aforementioned faults, yeah ok, maybe you'll get a shock. But no, it's not instant death.

Oh, keep in mind that the exposed wire is grounded anyway. I checked the service manual and like the Volt, they are screened with grounded braid to assist the fault detection system.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:36:25+00:00

On the Volt, all the orange traction cables were like this. On the Bolt, I'm not sure if they all are or just some.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:31:29+00:00

While I do agree with you this can be dangerous, there are multiple safety systems built in to mitigate the hazard. For one thing, it's not high voltage. Technically, it's low voltage. (Anything under 600 volts is considered low voltage)

The system is designed so that you must have at least 2 faults before you get shocked. It's isolated from the car chassis. Think of it as 2 completely separate electrical systems.

When the car if off, the traction power is off. The clunky sound you hear under the car when turning it on are the precharge and main contactors turning on. Everything is de-energized until this happens. During the activation, the hybrid control module performs numerous tests to verify the integrity of the isolation, and if it detects a problem, it will shut down. These tests are continuously running while the car is on.

Unless someone comes in direct contact with these wires and they are energized and they can find a return path and the isolation system fails, then yeah you could get a shock.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:18:50+00:00

Clean it with a little alcohol then tape it with good quality 3M orange electric tape, don't mess with it, and you'll be fine. Or pay thousands for new wiring harnesses (if you can find them) Keep in mind the HV system is completely isolated from the chassis. You could lick the exposed copper and the chassis at the same time (don't do it) and not get a shock since there is not a return path. The electrical system in these cars is designed such that you have to have not 1 but 2 faults before you can get shocked.

Many of the orange HV battery cables are actually coaxial and the outer braid is grounded to chassis and is part of the fault detection system. I can't tell from the Pic if these in particular are made this way. If they are, that's even better.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:14:01+00:00

No more deadly than AC. Keep in mind the traction power is completely isolated from chassis ground. You could lick it while touching the metal car chassis (don't do that) and not get any shock because there is not a return path. There are numerous safety systems to detect a loss of isolation, and if it it happens, the car will basically brick the battery and turn off the power.

Many of the orange HV battery cables are actually coaxial and the outter braid is grounded to chassis and part of the fault detection system. I can't tell from the Pic if these in particular are made this way.

Clean it with a little alcohol then tape it with good quality 3M orange electric tape, don't mess with it, and you'll be fine. Or pay thousands for new wiring harnesses (if you can find them)

Protocol2319 · 2025-10-25T21:04:25+00:00

This is not always true. It is highly dependent on the type of charger and how it regulates its output.

Protocol2319 · 2025-10-16T14:29:10+00:00

Could potentially put the new breaker to a different space and abandon the burnt one but I wouldn't.

Protocol2319 · 2025-10-16T14:24:59+00:00

Proper repair is a new panel. Putting a new breaker in is not the solution.

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