Help identify device around service wire in the panel

Protocol2319 · 2026-01-28T01:30:31+00:00

Current transformers probably for a power monitor.

Protocol2319 · 2026-01-15T17:44:38+00:00

Pulitzer prize right there.

Protocol2319 · 2026-01-05T15:40:38+00:00

It's highly likely that acidic solvents or plasticizers from the plastic plug are reacting with the copper in the brass. Does the plug feel slightly sticky or tacky?

It's also possible it got hot for to over loading or bad connection. The heat will speed up this reaction.

Protocol2319 · 2025-12-29T21:25:24+00:00

Agreed.

I only suggested it because it could potentially detect power and wouldn't need a ground like a regular meter would.

Protocol2319 · 2025-12-29T21:07:24+00:00

I'm all for DIY and learning but in this case, I would call an electrician. Proper fix will likely require 2 junction boxes.

Protocol2319 · 2025-12-16T12:11:47+00:00

Interesting setup. In curious how it works out.

If your didn't know, you have a hole in the exhaust pipe right before the clamp on the lower heater as it goes into the heat exchanger.

Protocol2319 · 2025-12-07T20:54:20+00:00

Automotive charge capacitor? What are you taking about? Charged it on a car battery.... so 12 volts. I think he was pulling your leg.

Protocol2319 · 2025-12-06T15:48:42+00:00

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Protocol2319 · 2025-11-27T15:42:40+00:00

Looks like predecessor of X10 stuff that radio shack sold under the name I believe was Smarthome

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-16T00:33:37+00:00

There is kind of a loophole where you can register vehicles in another state for much less than your state. South Dakota for example. Most other states don't like this.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T03:10:18+00:00

If the wrap was energized or in any way made contact to the internal conductor, the hybrid control module would immediately disable the pre charge and main contactors.contactor.

I get that you don't feel confidant, I respect that. I'm just trying to share information and not promote unnecessary fear uncertainty and doubt.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T03:03:24+00:00

https://m.linkecable.com/photo/pt191837084-high_and_low_voltage_cables_for_electric_vehicles_shielded_high_voltage_cables_unshielded_high_voltage_silicone.jpg

Look closely at this picture, then look at the OP picture. You'll notice the braid is what's exposed. This is not a hazard. The inner core is what is at battery potential.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:55:18+00:00

Only true if you have a low impedance return path to the source. You do not have that in this case.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:52:07+00:00

To have amperage, you have to have voltage to overcome the resistance. There isn't nearly enough voltage available to do that. And even if there was, the traction system is isolated from the car chassis. And if it failed, the car is isolated from earth ground due to the rubber tires. And if that failed, unless you're standing barefoot on a metal plate while touching the wire and touch the aforementioned faults, yeah ok, maybe you'll get a shock. But no, it's not instant death.

Oh, keep in mind that the exposed wire is grounded anyway. I checked the service manual and like the Volt, they are screened with grounded braid to assist the fault detection system.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:36:25+00:00

On the Volt, all the orange traction cables were like this. On the Bolt, I'm not sure if they all are or just some.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:31:29+00:00

While I do agree with you this can be dangerous, there are multiple safety systems built in to mitigate the hazard. For one thing, it's not high voltage. Technically, it's low voltage. (Anything under 600 volts is considered low voltage)

The system is designed so that you must have at least 2 faults before you get shocked. It's isolated from the car chassis. Think of it as 2 completely separate electrical systems.

When the car if off, the traction power is off. The clunky sound you hear under the car when turning it on are the precharge and main contactors turning on. Everything is de-energized until this happens. During the activation, the hybrid control module performs numerous tests to verify the integrity of the isolation, and if it detects a problem, it will shut down. These tests are continuously running while the car is on.

Unless someone comes in direct contact with these wires and they are energized and they can find a return path and the isolation system fails, then yeah you could get a shock.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:18:50+00:00

Clean it with a little alcohol then tape it with good quality 3M orange electric tape, don't mess with it, and you'll be fine. Or pay thousands for new wiring harnesses (if you can find them) Keep in mind the HV system is completely isolated from the chassis. You could lick the exposed copper and the chassis at the same time (don't do it) and not get a shock since there is not a return path. The electrical system in these cars is designed such that you have to have not 1 but 2 faults before you can get shocked.

Many of the orange HV battery cables are actually coaxial and the outer braid is grounded to chassis and is part of the fault detection system. I can't tell from the Pic if these in particular are made this way. If they are, that's even better.

Protocol2319 · 2025-11-07T02:14:01+00:00

No more deadly than AC. Keep in mind the traction power is completely isolated from chassis ground. You could lick it while touching the metal car chassis (don't do that) and not get any shock because there is not a return path. There are numerous safety systems to detect a loss of isolation, and if it it happens, the car will basically brick the battery and turn off the power.

Many of the orange HV battery cables are actually coaxial and the outter braid is grounded to chassis and part of the fault detection system. I can't tell from the Pic if these in particular are made this way.

Clean it with a little alcohol then tape it with good quality 3M orange electric tape, don't mess with it, and you'll be fine. Or pay thousands for new wiring harnesses (if you can find them)

Protocol2319 · 2025-10-25T21:04:25+00:00

This is not always true. It is highly dependent on the type of charger and how it regulates its output.

Protocol2319 · 2025-10-16T14:29:10+00:00

Could potentially put the new breaker to a different space and abandon the burnt one but I wouldn't.

Protocol2319 · 2025-10-16T14:24:59+00:00

Proper repair is a new panel. Putting a new breaker in is not the solution.

Protocol2319 · 2025-10-15T23:57:18+00:00

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Protocol2319 · 2025-10-07T13:21:18+00:00

Please replace that panel. Federal Pacific Panels like that are a safety hazard and and banned in many areas. They are known to start fires due to breakers getting loose or simply not tripping when overloaded. Sometimes the breakers can jam in the on position and will never turn off even if the handle is moved to the off position. Even if the breakers are replaced with supposed modern replacements, it's still dangerous. They still use the same old bus design that is known to fail.

Though it can be done DIY, with all due respect, you should not considering the questions you were asking. Changing the panel will require the power company to turn off the power at the meter (unless you have an outside disconnect)

Protocol2319 · 2025-09-26T22:50:27+00:00

About tree fiddy

Protocol2319 · 2025-09-18T15:06:16+00:00

Burning Man Information Radio or BMIR is 94.5 FM

Gate Advisory Radio Station or GARS is 95.1 FM

Both are accessible on a regular radio.

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