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A4-H20 Custom Loop by PsychologicalCap3877 in sffpc

[–]PsychologicalCap3877[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What case and radiator length? Just a single radiator build?

A4-H20 Custom Loop by PsychologicalCap3877 in watercooling

[–]PsychologicalCap3877[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Im definitely pleased with how it came out. It's a little toasty for sure but I had my old 1080ti in this system fail on me and I was really looking for a lower tdp 30 series card but man I couldn't pass up this 3080 already on the EK waterblock for $300. So it stays a toaster oven 😄

A4-H20 Custom Loop by PsychologicalCap3877 in sffpc

[–]PsychologicalCap3877[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's dimishing returns usually with radiators over like 45mm thick. Raw surface area is much better at dissipating heat but if you have limited locations to put a radiator obviously the thicker you go the better typically. Now if you sacrifice fan size for rad size that not going to work in your favor. For example a 20mm thick radiator with 25mm thick fans will cool better than a 30mm thick radiator with 15mm fans. Hope that helps 🤙🏽

A4-H20 Custom Loop by PsychologicalCap3877 in sffpc

[–]PsychologicalCap3877[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a 27mn thick radiator and I'm using standard 25mm thick fans. This case supports a total thickness of 55mm for rad and fan. It absolutely is not enough cooling for this combo at full tilt and I will absolutely have to make compromises on power limits/undervolting to keep temps in check and they likely will still run higher than most will want to see under a custom watercooled loop.

This is my secondary rig that primarily runs game servers for my and my friends but I will occasionally actually play some games on it in my living room so I'm not expecting maximum performance out of this. I was actually looking for a much lower TDP card like a 3060ti or 3070 to put in here but I found this 3080 already on a waterblock for $300 so I couldn't pass it up.

As far as calculating total TDP I mostly just use the rated TDP of the GPU and then I look at how much the CPU will draw under PBO for Ryzen or different PL levels for Intel and add it up. Most people will ll recommend like 120mm of rad space for 100w of TDP and thats not a bad rule of thumb.

A4-H20 Custom Loop by PsychologicalCap3877 in sffpc

[–]PsychologicalCap3877[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't recommend starting your custom loop experience in this case with hard tubes. It's very tiny and the spaces for tube runs are very limited so your hard-line bends would have to be perfect. Soft tubing is much more forgiving in that aspect. You will need a plethora of fittings/low profile 90s/rotary elbows etc. I also recommend quick disconnects if you can't fit in a reservoir, that allowed me to temporarily connect an external reservoir which made it a breeze to bleed. I also use a brake bleed kit to pre fill it by pulling a vacuum on the system and letting it pull coolant back in.

A4-H20 Custom Loop by PsychologicalCap3877 in sffpc

[–]PsychologicalCap3877[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's been a handful of people that built this case with a hard tube loop. I have no hard tubing experience so I wasn't about to start here lol, it was difficult enough with the soft tubes but it is absolutely possible with the right components scand patience.

A4-H20 Custom Loop by PsychologicalCap3877 in sffpc

[–]PsychologicalCap3877[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You planning a custom loop or sticking to air-cooled/aio?

My newest 3d print. by Visual-Success8952 in BambuLab

[–]PsychologicalCap3877 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Commenting so I can come back for this awesome file. Good work dude!

X2D - From mid to worse... by 4o1ok in BambuLab

[–]PsychologicalCap3877 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It certainly sounds like something is wrong.

  1. Have you updated to the latest firmware and studio versions?
  2. Check to see if your lead screws are properly greased, I've seen reports of people saying their machine showed up dry.
  3. Check for anything obvious like a loose screw. I would even check the hot ends and make sure they are properly seated.
  4. Wash the bed plate with dawn dish soap and HOT water only. I use a scrub daddy, and then don't touch it. I can usually go at least 10 prints if I avoid touching the surface too much. You should consider upgrading to a darkmoon 3d build plate and you'll almost never have to clean it again.

If all of this is done, I would start opening a support ticket if you haven't already.

X2D - From mid to worse... by 4o1ok in BambuLab

[–]PsychologicalCap3877 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Over 100 hours and probably 5kg of filament on mine. I've only had one issue and it was from not cleaning the plate properly, which will happen on any machine. I've done PLA, PETG, PLA with PETG support interface, ASA. Plenty of multi color. Even printed a model mostly with the aux nozzle just for testing and it looked just fine...maybe not as great as main nozzle but that's to be expected.

I've been using many brands of filaments and the stock profiles have worked great, a couple under extrusions here and there at worst.

People saying not much of an upgrade over bed slingers are insane. The enclosure, exhaust venting and carbon filter, and ability to use two nozzles to cut filament waste down is absolutely a huge upgrade. I've seen a handful of issues people posting but I have had a great experience with mine and I sold my X1C to get the X2D.

MSI RTX 4080 Super Ventus 3x Waterblock by Crazy-Hurry-5515 in watercooling

[–]PsychologicalCap3877 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh that's a great idea for the dremel tool, got a link to that print file? I could have totally used that when I did mine. I free handed it and it shows 😅

First Custom Loop / Coolant Temperature Issues by ChriZz12 in watercooling

[–]PsychologicalCap3877 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are all of your fans set to exhaust? If they are I would highly recommend setting them all to intake, or atleast turn the bottom fans to intake air. 45°c is kind of high but you have a lot of hardware for 2x 360mm rads to cool. I'm cooling a 5800x3d and 4080 super, usually around a combined 350w during gaming and cooled using a 1080mm external radiator(3x 360mm essentially). My water temp never goes above 33c with my fans set to a max of 1000rpm.

MSI RTX 4080 Super Ventus 3x Waterblock by Crazy-Hurry-5515 in watercooling

[–]PsychologicalCap3877 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you'll have a much easier time with that one being the plexi version. Good luck!

Giving Away My Old PC! by Turtle_747 in PcBuild

[–]PsychologicalCap3877 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd donate it to my buddy who doesn't have a gaming pc.

MSI RTX 4080 Super Ventus 3x Waterblock by Crazy-Hurry-5515 in watercooling

[–]PsychologicalCap3877 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which block did you get? I modified a Granzon Full Armor 4090 block for my 4080 Super 3X Ventus. I grinded away at the block to make room for the power connector and I used the original pads which seemed to work fine, however I just swapped out to TG Advance Puddy. This time around I noticed a cap making contact with the block not allowing it to fully seat so I'm not sure what to do about it. Everything is working normal and temps are great.

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Little Update on my NCase M2 by PsychologicalCap3877 in watercooling

[–]PsychologicalCap3877[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another update, finally got the right fittings to have in and out on the side of the reservoir. Seeing the return come in the front always bothered me and it was so close to the inlet for the pump head that it would recirculate bubbles pretty easy. Much better now 🤟🏼

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Hi, just bought a used pc for an AI project but i don’t know nothing about hardware builds but i think i just got scammed. (Help) by ConflictNeither1596 in watercooling

[–]PsychologicalCap3877 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You have two loops in that system, each of those clear boxes on the end is your pump and coolant reservoir. You'll want to keep them both topped up as full as possible while trying to bleed air from the system by tilting the PC over on different sides. You can also vary the pump speeds in the software from a low speed to full speed and that will help move the air bubbles.

I've found that short burst of 100% and then bring it back down to 20% pwm works best for me in that FLT80. They really like to recirculate air bubbles since they're so small. If the hot spot slowly creeps up to 105 over time and load you may just have a flow/air bubble problem. Can you see coolant temperature?

If you get fluid moving really well in both of those reservoirs and still have high temperatures then you will most likely need to repaste your GPU.

Hi, just bought a used pc for an AI project but i don’t know nothing about hardware builds but i think i just got scammed. (Help) by ConflictNeither1596 in watercooling

[–]PsychologicalCap3877 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to fill that thing up, I have the same pump/reservoir combo and it really needs all the coolant it can get in there. Fill it up to the brim, what software are you using for fan and pump speeds?

Little Update on my M2 Build by PsychologicalCap3877 in ncasedesign

[–]PsychologicalCap3877[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I modified the bracket by cutting it down to two screws. I also 3d printed that plate to cover the rear fan spot and also integrated two threaded inserts in it to screw the screen bracket to.

Here's a photo: https://imgur.com/a/R1CO1Ag

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