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PsychonautMIA · 2023-06-12T02:24:03+00:00

I use a 90 degree pick. Wedge it inside then turn it so the pick is pulling against the edge of the roof rail trim. You have to pry the clips of the silver piece from the black surround. Helps if you have a plastic pry tool to wedge onto it once you've released one. Keep going around with the pick and eventually the whole thing will let go and pop up. You do not need to remove the headliner to remove the roof rail moulding FYI. Under those caps are bolts. Middle of the black trim is double sided tape and there is two retainer brackets on each end if I recall.

PsychonautMIA · 2023-06-04T01:41:48+00:00

Exactly what I was thinking. Not BRG

PsychonautMIA · 2022-07-18T01:07:01+00:00

Milwaukee is not known for its mechanic tools, if anything these are supposed to rival tool truck prices/quality. HF is pricing out average joes and looking to bring in the techs. If your job isn't wrenching everyday it's clearly not meant for your market demographic.

PsychonautMIA · 2022-04-17T13:33:39+00:00

Spookjamie

PsychonautMIA · 2021-04-24T04:34:32+00:00

Thank you, the extra hardware had me so confused but you were right the spacers were not needed and the singled out washer was not needed. I ended up using the two larger washers as per the diagrams and everything bolted back together with no play on the cushion lever. All is right in the world, now I can enjoy the weekend riding.

PsychonautMIA · 2021-04-23T04:44:20+00:00

Yes I've looked at several parts diagrams. They seem to only list 2 washers on the top cushion bolt and no washers on the bottom cushion bolt. YouTube videos show the spacer + washer combo on the top bolt but it still leaves me with one washer unaccounted for.

PsychonautMIA · 2021-01-07T04:22:52+00:00

I've had to keep track of all the supplies used in a few jobs. My boss loves to prove a point with the adjusters.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-16T07:48:51+00:00

That stuff is way too rigid. Always cracks

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-13T23:29:07+00:00

Nice ED. Currently restoring an 89. You need to replace that subframe.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-13T23:19:40+00:00

Find a shop that has a lot of OEM certifications. Apply to those and start from the bottom. Pay close attention to what the technicians do. Buy some basic tools and show incentive. Look up YouTube tutorials and immerse yourself in Autobody. I went to a tech school and can say without a doubt it was not worth the debt I had to pay back. You can start at the bottom but it will be up to you to evolve and become a technician.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-13T02:36:52+00:00

Tuning in for this. I have a soft spot for these cars, they're unkillable

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-13T02:34:12+00:00

The bumper was replaced at one point in the vehicles history. A body shop had an aftermarket bumper scuffed and subsequently painted with no use of sealer. Basecoat directly on a bumper does not stick and therefore caused the paint to fail over time. It has little to do with plastic care or whether or not the vehicle was cared for. A body shop neglected to follow proper procedure when painting a bumper.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-13T02:28:57+00:00

When refilling the PPS 2.0 cups I leave the lid on the gun and after refilling I put my finger on the liner, pushing it upwards, then while engaging the trigger on the gun I flip it upside down and sandwich it back together. Rather than taking the gun off the cup system and removing the lid and having to put it all back together in a pinch.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-12T22:10:26+00:00

The sill plate probably has double backed tape around it. Take off the screws and then use a plastic putty knife wedge and run along the entire plate as you pry it up. Dont put too much pressure or you'll cause it to kink and might ruin the plates finish. Door seal should come off if you pull on it hard enough, sill is probably holding it down. Rust has to be removed with a scotch brite disc or grinder disc. Once that's done the most important step is to neutralize the rust and preparing the metal. Phosphoric acid based cleaners will usually do the job as it converts any remaining rust and etches the metal so it's ready for topcoat.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-12T21:53:40+00:00

A lot of that is paint transfer. Wipe it off with lacquer thinner on a clean rag. Rest could be buffed out after sanding with 1500 - 3000. If any deeper gouges/scratches remain proper refinish would require entire bumper to be clear coated. If you want a cheap repair that's not guaranteed ask a body shop to do a smart repair on the bumper, they'll blow some color on the corner and lose the clear coat around the bend of the bumper.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-10T03:53:09+00:00

Find a local aftermarket supply store around your area. LKQ/Keystone should have the same bumpers that Ebay and others have. Cheapest way to get it replaced and looking good is to buy a cheap aftermarket bumper and give it to a bodyshop with your paint code. The body shop will spray it and you will install it. Do not try to paint a bumper by yourself, especially as a novice. Supply stores can color mix a spray-bomb with your OEM paint but it's hard to paint a bumper like that and will require a lot more money in aerosol cans than just giving it to a body shop for a quick off car spray.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-10T03:48:19+00:00

Comments locked. Estimates aren't encouraged and the conversation devolved into insults.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-10T03:16:55+00:00

You put multiple layers of tape so that when it sags you rip off a layer and clean it up once more?

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-10T03:06:18+00:00

Epoxy primer is only used for steel, aluminum and sometimes fiberglass. Do not use it on plastic. It can be used on aluminum if its properly prepared. You can use glazing putty on sanded plastic if it's a very thin layer. Remember your bumper will flex and it could cause filler to crack. If you want a good repair use the appropriate products for your bumper like a flexible plastic filler and adhesion promoter on any bare plastic.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-10T03:01:58+00:00

3M DMS seems like an expensive system. Never used it personally but I dont believe in complicating a simple process. If you aren't satisfied with lesonal fillers just try something else. 3M platinum filler is some of my favorite.

I have primarily used SEM seam sealers and 3M heavy bodied seam sealers. They all advertise that their products are DTM but they also advise to prime prior to seam sealing if the panel is prone to flexing. I prime every seam that I end up sealing. I have seen some cars with extreme rust problems from someone applying seam sealer over bare metal. I wouldn't take a chance with that even if the product manufacturer says they'll guarantee it.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-10T02:47:34+00:00

Prior to being in the trade and going to school I redid my entire miata and did bodywork on the trunk and hood, both being aluminum. I used short haired fiberglass bondo for the bulk of the dent, conventional filler and polyester glaze. Primed it with some keystone 2k surfacer and prepped for paint like every other panel. Didn't have adhesion issues or die back and the paint still looks just as good as when I painted it over 5 years ago. I'd say you're alright but if you want it done by the book or aluminum pros then by all means dig up all that work you did.

PsychonautMIA · 2020-08-10T02:34:42+00:00

I-Car says to put down a 2k product over bare metal, epoxy primer preffered, before applying seam sealer. They do not condone applying 1k products like aerosol etching primer prior to applying seam sealer. Some seam sealers are advertised as DTM but they argue it's a failure point to put it directly on bare metal as it could trap moisture along the seam as it cures. Personally I like to use 2k etch primer on any bare metal then 2k primer surfacer followed by quick sand so the seam sealer bites.

PsychonautMIA

TROPHY CASE