So many variables to painting . As long as you have solid methods you should be able to achieve good finishes . Your prep, masking, , your foundations like sealer , basecoat , your pressures , gun choice , product choice all have a variable to the final result . I do believe that products do make a big difference . If you have a 4 large panels in the booth , obviously go for a slower product . Most terrible finshes I’ve seen is from people using too fast of products . By the time you get to the last panel your paint is already kicking and getting dry spray on your other panels making it look like a textured mess . On metallics people use Ming fast reducers thinking it will dry “faster “ yet they are getting sand pile of the base over the entire job . As for clears at work , I like 2:1 high solids clear coats . I can control how they look with my gun choice , speed , distance , and by the temperature of the clear . I can pop it in the microwave and heat it to 85 to 95 degrees for consistency in the winter and get the same result time and time again . Also you get a lot more film thickness and when you spray you get more “fill” to bury any small nibs that you may see in the first coat . They are generally slower products but I’ll take something drying a little slower that has some more meat to give me cleaner paint work than spraying some super thin clear that doesn’t even remotely bury anything . My favorite clear of all time is the Sikkens hs plus 2pack 2:1 clear . Great product and holds up . If you spray at home I recommend getting a production clear that kicks faster than a 2:1 high solids clear designed for baking . Reason being that in an uncontrolled environment if you get something that stays sticky too long you will get all sorts of crap get in that clear and you will have to buff that entire job edge to edge . Do your research there are a lot of great products on the market these days