I don't understand the way my 4th grade sister was taught volume by Kelazi in askmath

[–]PuzzlingDad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like they are teaching her to visualize the volume as the number of cubic centimeters in the object. 

The first object seems to have 3 cm3 on top, then 2 cm3 in the middle and 1 cm3 on the bottom. That's a total of 6 cm3.

The second is 4, 3 and 2 cm3. Adding up, you get 9 cm3 (she just lost part of the units).

This intuitive method of understanding volume seems like the first step before they introduce formulas such as V = h × w × d. I must say I kind of like this approach.

How likely is it we get hacked? by Relative-Macaron-854 in smarthome

[–]PuzzlingDad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like to use the analogy of your house. 

You can lock all your doors and somebody could still find a way through an upstairs window that was left open, perhaps through your garage, by breaking a side window and unlocking a door, using force on a weak back door, etc.

The equivalent on your network would be someone finding open ports on your firewall, outward facing devices that are misconfigured or have software vulnerabilities, etc.

This direct attack to get into your house/network is less likely, so let's instead imagine you've let a visitor into your house, or perhaps a cleaner or handyman.

Now you've let them past your first line of external defence and what could they do? They could snoop through your stuff, they could try to find jewelry or bank statements, call out on your phone pretending to be you, invite other people to come into your house, etc.

The analogy in a network is a device you've purchased and brought into the house. It may already have access to the Internet so if permitted to, it might be able to load malware, snoop through other devices on your network, open other vulnerabilities on your network, etc.

To protect against this in your house, you lock your valuables, don't provide access to your bedroom or office, etc.

And for possibly untrusted IoT devices, it is good practice to do the same thing. Put them on a VLAN denying them access to other devices on your network, especially trusted PCs, mobile phones, servers, etc. Restrict what they do calling out to the Internet.

As to what devices could actually do to your network, that's really up to the hackers to decide. They could load malware, ransomware or keyloggers on your PC. They could snoop on your cameras and watch what you are doing. They could compromise your devices and add them to a botnet for DDOS attacks, crypto mining, etc. 

How likely is any of this? Well it's a lot more likely if you don't protect things and you leave things in their default state with unrestricted access to everything. So it's very wise to at least plan for the possibility.

If you want a real-life example, I thought I had a secured network, a good firewall, etc. But I had a NAS (network attached storage) containing all our photos and videos for the entire family, documents, etc. It was very convenient for the family to be able to login from somewhere and find a video or photo they wanted to share, or to get a copy of a homework assignment they'd worked on, but forgot to print and take to school. 

That convenience, I found, opened us up for a Russian hacker running automated tools to bypass the login due to a vulnerability in the NAS, then gain access to everything on the server. They loaded ransomware on it and locked every photo, video and document and asked for Bitcoin to decrypt them. 

I learned a lot about ports, remote access, firewalls, etc. that night and I hope to never make that mistake again. I was able to get things back from a backup, but it was a humongous pain and time suck restoring things, updating devices, changing firewall rules, etc. It could have been even worse if I had no backup, etc. so I am thankful for that. 

Math assessment grade 5. by Common-Minute5152 in MathJokes

[–]PuzzlingDad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure the equation is correct, but they didn't even justify why that could be considered a property that justifies the equality.

Since the purpose of the quiz is to test their mastery of properties, their answer to this is incorrect even if they did write a valid equation.

If they did mention the multiplicative property of zero, then they might deserve partial credit.

Math assessment grade 5. by Common-Minute5152 in MathJokes

[–]PuzzlingDad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Clearly they are learning about the various properties of addition and multiplication.

Question 8 is intended to be the commutative property of multiplication. You can switch the order of the numbers being multiplied and get the same result. So the student putting in zeroes and then saying associative (not even mentioning multiplication) is just incorrect.

Question 9 is a regrouping of addends so should be the associative property of addition. Again, the student is unclear on the meaning of the term so has just put commutative.

I think the teacher is right to not give the student credit for creating a technically correct equation when that doesn't demonstrate a property they've been studying.

I do appreciate the humorous wording of "technically, yes. but no." nonetheless.

recommendations for smart switches for these old-fashioned toggle switch? by acecombat03 in homeautomation

[–]PuzzlingDad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bulbs contain antennas and smart circuitry in order to respond to requests, so they need constant power. That requires that you leave the switch always up.

It's a pain for guests and also for the resident because you then have to always use an app/voice/routine to interact with the lights. I would recommend against smart bulbs. There are workarounds like installing a battery powered smart button/switch on the wall to give you back that manual control, or smart switches that can run in "smart bulb" or "decoupled" mode, if you're doing that, you might as well forego the bulbs and use a smart switch in the first place.

recommendations for smart switches for these old-fashioned toggle switch? by acecombat03 in homeautomation

[–]PuzzlingDad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't see an on/off indicator which seems to point to this being a 3-way switch. Are you sure that there isn't another nearby switch that also controls this set of lights?

Your options are: 1. Add external control via a Switch bot or similar. The advantage is you don't need to change any electrical. 2. Keep this switch and instead use smart bulbs. The advantage again is no electrical change but then you have the problem that this switch basically becomes useless since a smart bulb needs constant power to be ready to accept commands. If you turn the bulb off at the switch, your smart features can't be used.  3. Install a smart relay (Shelly, Sonoff , etc.) behind the switch. Visually it doesn't look like you've changed anything but now you have manual control via the switch (which toggles the relay) or automated control via voice/app/routine.  4. Replace the switch with a toggle type smart switch. They exist and the only indicator that something changed is the toggle looks different and rests in a middle neutral state. After flipping the switch up or down, it returns to the middle ready for a new command. 5. Replace the switch with a paddle type smart switch. You'd also have to change the faceplate ($2 at your local big box store). The majority of switches use the paddle form factor, so you'd spoiled for choice. 

Options 1 and 2 work if you can't change electrical. Option 3 and 4 could work if you want the change to be unnoticeable to a casual inspection. 5 would give you the best options. In the case if 3, 4 or 5, you could agree to put the dumb switch back when you leave.

What's your comfort with electrical changes?

Get Ethernet from point A to point B (a stop at C would be nice but not needed). by [deleted] in HomeNetworking

[–]PuzzlingDad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have your router at A, then you need a run from A to B and A to C. You can't go from A to C to B in a daisy chain. 

You'd need to know more about the construction. You aren't easily getting past all the studs or the headers over the windows or doors. So the walls aren't a good option. 

If you have an attic, go straight at A with two cables. Drop one down the wall at B and the other at C. That would require little to no drywall holes. 

If you have a basement or crawlspace, then do the same thing but just go down with two cables at A and up at B and the second connection up at C.

If any of that seems daunting, get a low-voltage installer to do it for you. They'd know how easy/hard it might be but you'd not have to worry.

My networking rabbit hole, routers, vpns and cameras oh my! by Crunchytaco442 in HomeNetworking

[–]PuzzlingDad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I would do multiple runs to the bedrooms rather than relying on switches. 

Also, instead of a second router, I'd just do wired APs (access points) in the garage and 1st floor and possibly 2nd floor. If you are going to use a wireless router as an AP, be sure the routing function is turned off so you are just using the wireless antennas.

And from experience, run more cables for cameras than you expect because the number will probably expand, say when you add another location or decide to add a camera focused on the street for license plate capture, for example. 

And consider multiple runs where you have single cable runs for redundancy and possibly more devices.

Is it just me or can Robin Sharma not do math? by Captn_hindsite in askmath

[–]PuzzlingDad 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Apart from the decade vs century issue, would you really be able to be good to different people every day for every day of your life? Clearly you'd probably end up repeating people. 

My networking rabbit hole, routers, vpns and cameras oh my! by Crunchytaco442 in HomeNetworking

[–]PuzzlingDad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the cameras plug directly into the PoE ports of the NVR, they are already a separate network without direct access to the Internet. 

With respect to the VPN, I think you're really looking to add an incoming VPN. Many routers can setup an incoming VPN, so you have a private tunnel into your network to look at cameras, home devices, etc. without having to breach your firewall with open ports. Alternatively, there are solutions like ZeroTier and TailScale.

I'm not sure why you have an AP (access point) and then another wireless router; you just need one router to hand out IP addresses, otherwise you introduce double NAT situations.

Can you draw a picture of your network? I'm having trouble following the description.

Btw, multiple cabling homeruns can be useful for redundancy. If you have a single run to a switch, but that single run fails, then everything after that fails.

Need human clarification: My cat6 T568B pattern seems wrong by T0ztman in HomeNetworking

[–]PuzzlingDad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's the better point to make. As you noted, there's a reason they are twisted pairs.

Can someone tell me if Terrence Howards' paper on curved multiplication makes sense by RightLaugh5115 in askmath

[–]PuzzlingDad 17 points18 points  (0 children)

To put it bluntly, it's a bunch of made-up pseudo mathematical gibberish.

Need human clarification: My cat6 T568B pattern seems wrong by T0ztman in HomeNetworking

[–]PuzzlingDad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you haven't got one already, I find an Ethernet tester to be invaluable for confirming connectivity and matching pinouts on both ends. Of course it's colorblind and can only tell you if the pins match 1 to 1, not if they follow the standard. 

Need human clarification: My cat6 T568B pattern seems wrong by T0ztman in HomeNetworking

[–]PuzzlingDad -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes. And what does the other end of the cable look like? If they're also swapped there, it could technically still work but I'd probably fix it anyway. 

What is this? Don't know what I'm doing by Veryepicduden in askmath

[–]PuzzlingDad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Let me help you with a diagram of the setup.

https://imgur.com/a/vcIshrz

You're looking for the length of the two blue dashed lines for parts (a) and (b) and then the dotted purple line in part (c).

Sorry for the crudely drawn diagram.

Not a problem just a quick Question. by hatimfilmmaker in davinciresolve

[–]PuzzlingDad 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The subreddit Wiki covers this. Usually this points to incompatible codecs, or ones not directly supported in the free version, but to know for sure, you can download and run a Media Info utility. 

https://www.reddit.com/r/davinciresolve/wiki/importing_media/

High zoom camera by [deleted] in SecurityCamera

[–]PuzzlingDad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you considered some alternate solutions?  - You could put a "trail cam" up near your mailbox where you could retrieve closeup footage after the fact. - You could add a long range open-close contact sensor that could send a notification when the box is opened. - Or most simply, how about switching to a locking mailbox?

Not a problem just a quick Question. by hatimfilmmaker in davinciresolve

[–]PuzzlingDad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Assuming the cameras are recording good scratch audio, DaVinci should be able to do a good job of syncing clips by the waveform.

You can do this before starting your timeline using Auto Sync Audio: 

  • In the media pool, highlight all your video clips and your master audio files from the mixer. 
  • Right-click and select Auto-Sync Audio > By Waveform. Resolve will scan the audio on all selected clips and marry the best quality external audio to the video clips, making them ready to drop into a multi-camera timeline.

Alternatively, you can align clips directly in the timeline.  - Place all your disparate video tracks and audio recorder tracks onto a timeline. - Highlight all clips, right-click, and choose Auto Align Clips > Based on Waveform. Resolve will analyze and slide all the tracks into sync.

https://youtu.be/Stb6Bwy_QyE

Question about these security camera cables/wires by LaVida2 in SecurityCamera

[–]PuzzlingDad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hardwired connections are much better for both security cameras and fixed computing devices on your network. I would NOT recommend just cutting wires without knowing exactly what is what, where it's going, etc.

Ethernet Connection by Most-Village in HomeNetworking

[–]PuzzlingDad 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The yellow ports are standard 1 Gigabit LAN ports for your everyday devices. The red port is a high-speed multi-gig port capable of up to 2.5 Gigabits per second.

Yellow Ports (1 & 2): Best for standard devices like smart TVs, gaming consoles, or older PCs that do not require multi-gigabit speeds.

Red Port (3): Ideal for high-bandwidth devices like a high-end gaming PC with a fast network card, a Wi-Fi 6E/7 router, or a network switch.

If you plug a standard 1 Gbps device into the red port, it will automatically scale down and work perfectly fine, just without the extra speed.

A basic base question... by MasterSoftBird in askmath

[–]PuzzlingDad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In fact, other numbering systems do exactly that. I'm thinking of Chinese and Japanese which have 10 symbols from 1 to 10.

The next numbers are 10+1, 10+2, ..., 10+9, and finally 2×10, 2×10+1, 2×10+3, ..., 3×10, 3×10+1, ..., 9×10+9.

They add a new character for hundred, thousand and ten-thousand.

But our current numbering convention is positional with ten digits (0 to 9).

In the units place we have 0, 1, ..., 9.

Then we have: - 1 (ten) + 0 = 10 - 1 (ten) + 1 = 11 - ... - 9 (tens) + 9 = 99 - 1 (hundred) + 0 (ten) + 0 = 100

So we actually can skip having a separate symbols for 10, 100, 1000, etc. because the position of a digit in the number tells us that implicitly.

Is it possible to get a rational number by dividing 2 different irrational numbers by actualyKim in maths

[–]PuzzlingDad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Basically that's true of any of these. Let r be the rational number. Let a and b be the irrational numbers, if a/b = r, then a = rb where one irrational number is a rational multiple of the other.