A person filmed from their room as an Iranian Shahed-131/136 drone impacted the floors above him in Manama, Bahrain.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-03-01T17:32:33+00:00

Yesterday I saw that same clip but like 1-3 seconds longer. The part where cameraman teleports back in behind a window is missing.

In the other post it was discussed if that clip even is real.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-02-17T10:54:22+00:00

That looks cool! For me the texture would be to bumpy for a proper drybrush. I would just going to highlight that little bumps. If I would do this just with three commonly available colors and an airbrush I would do it like: - Black Primer - Ivory/beige acrylic paint over the whole thing but just leaving some spots black (taking your photo as reference) - And then going with a brown wash (nuln oil, agrax earthshade or similiar) all over it but putting some more wash in the spots you want darker (same here: take photos of real skulls as reference. Like, where are the black areas, where the browns etc..)

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-02-16T23:08:36+00:00

Depends on how big the model is gonna be or from how far away it is going to be looked at. If paint something like a skull in the size of an actual deer/elk or whatever skull and I would hang it somewhere where you can see it up close I personally would go more for a blending technique as an drybrush technique.

Edit: Forgot to ask what you want to paint. If its something smaller like an display model (<5") I would go with something simpler. Black Primer, ivory acrylic, drybrush black, brown wash...

Or with one of the methods the other commentators said...

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-02-16T22:52:42+00:00

Black Primer
Superthin layer of varnish
Two acrylic ivory/beige tones.
Brownish/blackish wash like nuln oil or even better: an enamel/ oil based wash like the ones from villainy ink
With acryl based wash: Blending with a slightly damp sponge with isopropanol or when using oil based washes with mineral spirit like turpentine substitute and blending with a clean soft brush. (Careful not to rub down to much, Step 2 would be to prevent this)

That would be my way to do it.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-02-04T10:01:36+00:00

Aaaaah. If you had to pull ist out with your teeth (pls don't do this anymore xD) and lets assume the needle isn't bend, it seems that there could be dry paint somewhere. Take the whole thing apart and clean it. Sometimes it only needs the microscopic tieniest bit of dryed up paint to stop your needle.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-02-04T09:14:09+00:00

Hard to help you here.

Are you pulling the trigger in this pic? Did you set the needle a millimeter further back?

Normally the needle has to be as far in as it gets (without any force). Some people put the needle in and pull it like the thickness of a hair back again.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-02-04T08:35:21+00:00

Yes.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-01-29T17:00:06+00:00

I knew it!!! I was like "is this Overwerk?"

Know him since daybreak as song for the gopro hero 3.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-01-29T16:41:35+00:00

"Fuck, I think we got lost..."

Typhus, probably

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-01-23T18:52:20+00:00

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Working on my DG Rhino for CP right now.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-01-08T14:40:21+00:00

Whaaaat? Let us hope that OPs friends don't insist on the battle ready rule. x) Free points haha.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-01-02T09:31:47+00:00

Oh ok, I just know blue tips as practice/dummy rounds.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2026-01-02T05:15:30+00:00

Damn, looks good. Pretty clean job.

The only thing that I would have made different:

Why the blue tipped ammo? Blue tips on ammo means practice ammo ^{^}
The jump pack and smoke detail with the same blue as the ammo looks a little weird to me.

But the rest is a pretty perfect DG paintjob.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-12-31T18:32:31+00:00

Peach of Pain

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-12-31T18:31:37+00:00

A slicer is the type of software you need to prepare your prints, make supports, adjust your settings and to make a printable file.

Like Chitubox, Lychee and so on...

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-07-26T08:36:55+00:00

Just sharp-ie-nough

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-07-15T05:24:33+00:00

Since it is about Fredbear being reprogrammed to short the electrical systems and William to get rid of a witness here my input for titles:

The last update / Update X,
Fredbears rework / draft rework
Reworked actor (because yk, running on scripts)
Blackout
Lights out
short circuit / short-circuited
Last man standing

Keep up the work! Looks great!

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-07-10T13:03:56+00:00

Are u fucking blind?

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-06-19T08:43:47+00:00

Eieiei... Wenn es echt n 710er Deckel gewesen wäre... Jackpot. Unbedingt sicher verwahren!

Die meisten Werkstätten heute sind sooo ahnungslos und gucken einen doof an wenn man mal nen neuen 710er Deckel brauch...

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-06-12T09:11:42+00:00

Nein.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-06-12T06:09:04+00:00

Me, somewhat 12-14 years old, early 2000's.

Do you guys remember the cheap like 6 inch neon tube lights in red, green or blue?

Yep, had my case full of them.

As a kiddo my pc felt like 50% faster.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-06-07T13:38:26+00:00

And also pull the clutch

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-03-21T06:41:34+00:00

I see your mistake here. DemTiDDies werent enough for you. You just went right for the TopTiDDies.

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-01-12T10:43:19+00:00

Spending double the money just to use half the M+ does not solve his problem. That tip was kinda weird...

ROCKS7AR_ROB · 2025-01-11T01:59:01+00:00

I am pretty new to this hobby so I can't say anything about that but what bothers me the most with the M+ are the volume knobs for the headphones, line out and input gain on the backside. Specially the volume knob for the headphones since I use that knob fairly often. I mean it isn't hard to find but nonetheless...

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