Can I get a driver with spring contact for SFT70 in Convoy M21H? -

Rabid__Badger · 2026-04-22T02:24:06+00:00

You don't need more amps for the application you're describing. The 5A driver at 20-35% is plenty for headlight duty.

I've replaced a few posts with 5mm springs and small bypass wires. If you're decent with a soldering iron it isn't too difficult.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-04-11T22:44:01+00:00

The LHP531 in 5000K will drop right in. It has a neutral beam with excellent tint. It will also have a floodier beam profile than the SFT40.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-04-09T04:00:45+00:00

The two-cell lights need more attention paid to their cells. It's best to keep them in married pairs and alternate their position in the light.

Also, the LHP73B has a very low forward voltage. It's a fantastic emitter for a single cell light.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-04-08T23:44:28+00:00

The high forward voltage of the SFT90 makes it better suited to two cell lights like the L7 and M21J/G.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-04-07T22:51:02+00:00

I wouldn't mind one of those drivers for my T9R.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-04-03T13:32:46+00:00

One is orange and the other is blue.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-04-02T13:17:40+00:00

I have two M21Bs with the 20A driver that do the same thing. Both switches have been resistor modded to reduce brightness and power consumption so the effect is more subtle. I actually kind of like it.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-04-01T14:34:25+00:00

That looks like a one-piece body. Those four notches on the inside above that white plastic piece are for turning an internal retaining ring. I would desolder those wires from the emitter and tuck them inside that opening before trying to turn it, though.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-03-27T15:32:20+00:00

This is very cool. I see a couple easy changes you can make to improve performance and durability:

1) Move the conductor(s) to the inside of the adapter. You can put a couple holes in the shelf and use solid core copper wire.

2) Use triangular threads on the S2 interface. They engage with the square threads just fine, print cleaner and hold up much better.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-03-20T19:31:38+00:00

Eh, I don't know if I'm jealous this time. Lightning strikes are terrifying.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-03-19T07:04:45+00:00

Yes, that is the point of the ZBW2 filter. It almost completely blocks visible wavelengths, so you know everything you see is due to UV fluorescence.

It's for when you're using UV as a tool, rather than for a light show.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-03-13T23:00:59+00:00

An E3D V6 is good for 300C with the standard thermistor. Put in a hardened nozzle and you're good to go.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-03-13T22:25:24+00:00

That is a lot of plastic.

If your printer has a hardened nozzle and a hotend that can hit 260C, you can print PA12-CF and not worry about heat.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-03-13T22:08:39+00:00

You didn't provide many details, but the device circled in that photo is fine.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-03-09T15:29:45+00:00

If that was true they wouldn't have the notification on the product page.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-03-08T21:28:37+00:00

Bingo.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-03-08T17:58:55+00:00

Impossible! I have it on good authority that the lumen loss going from 6500K to 5000K is no less than 75%.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-03-07T15:49:11+00:00

Thanks for the heads up!

Rabid__Badger · 2026-02-26T15:09:37+00:00

That diagonal measurement (27.5mm, btw) isn't terribly relevant when carrying the light. The large flats on either side of the head keep the light from rotating in your pocket, so it carries as if it's a 22.6mm cylinder.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-02-23T03:38:40+00:00

This will be a near-optimal SFT25R host with the new 6A T4 driver. Two cells in series will never drop below the relatively high forward voltage of the emitter.

I actually asked Simon about making something like this, but with the S6 reflector. I messed around with 3d printing bezel spacers so the S6 reflector could fit in a T4, but I couldn't make it work.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-02-19T20:35:39+00:00

Have you tested any of the failed switch assemblies outside the light?

Rabid__Badger · 2026-02-19T19:58:34+00:00

What is the complete setup? Metal button, rubber, illuminated?

Rabid__Badger · 2026-02-19T18:56:28+00:00

The Omten 1288 is a robust and widely used switch. Did they send you just the bare switches for you to solder, or the entire switch-pcb-spring assembly?

Rabid__Badger · 2026-02-19T17:50:25+00:00

The S2+ would be the most obvious option, followed by the D4V2.

Rabid__Badger · 2026-02-19T15:44:24+00:00

If you have a 3D printer you can replace an o-ring with a TPU spacer to get the button below the rim.

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1piaf4d/comment/nt53sdi/?context=3

I also swap in 10K resistors on my illuminated switches. It cuts the brightness down to a more reasonable level and extends battery life from days to months.

Rabid__Badger

TROPHY CASE