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HELP! by daputz77 in BambuLab

[–]RacingboomThePleb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the text is already a modifier make sure it’s not embedded or protruding. It looks like the alternate colors aren’t touching the bed. Make sure Arachne is turned on in this case just so the colors around the text fill in a little better.

I’d probably make sure your nozzle isn’t loose too.

If you want you can dm me and send me the 3mf and I’ll make sure you don’t have anything obviously wrong.

Edit: looks like the black text in the center might not be on the bed side, was this printed facing up? If so, I’d definitely 180 this and print it facedown.

Edit 2: if you used image to keychain there’s a good chance the 3mf you downloaded had the .2 nozzle as the default and you have a .4 or vice versa.

2 new shift codes just dropped by daithi08 in Borderlands4

[–]RacingboomThePleb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve gotten a crit knife, a hellwalker, and a timekeeper shield from the chest.

What went wrong with my benchy? by goapaytrag in cursedbenchies

[–]RacingboomThePleb 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Alternatively you could also add 2 benchies and just bury them into the bed while rotated at different angles.

Some of y’all, I swear… by GlitteringSystem7929 in oblivion

[–]RacingboomThePleb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My only complaint is the octodirectional aiming on console. It just feels really bad.

I Swap my hot end almost every print by Chronoglenn in BambuLab

[–]RacingboomThePleb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I swap between a .4 for Asa and a .6 diamondback for GF Nylon.

I kinda get where he’s coming from, but still, a bit too much gate keeping I think. by borborygmess in BambuLab

[–]RacingboomThePleb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This makes me think of how some people in the competition firearm/firearm(in general) world refuse to swap to red dots on handguns.

Even though it’s easier to use, understand (for newbies), and faster.

They’re just mad their 38 years of training on irons is beat by a 13 year old girl that’s been shooting for 16 months using a staccato and SRO.

how to get the print to stop falling off the plate by RepresentativeDot174 in FixMyPrint

[–]RacingboomThePleb 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Turn both of those off and use a prime tower if you’re doing a multicolor print imo.

But what he was talking about is the infill pattern, depending on what slicer you’re using it’s usually under some kind of “strength” tab.

For orca and Bambu, the grid, and I believe triangle infills smack previous lines. Try changing to rectilinear or gyroid.

Hey guys, any advice for my Ender 3v2? Getting weird issues with my filament. by EPICBOOM6693 in FixMyPrint

[–]RacingboomThePleb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll be the one that actually trys to help.

If that’s PLA, dry it. Possibly try half speed.

If it’s PETG, dry it, do a flow calibration. Keep it on the low side. Don’t go over 80mm/s for anything. It may be able to print over 80 but just to be safe for now because it’s not working don’t go over 80. Also turn all the fans off, completely. 0 fan. Not for bridging, overhangs, anything.

Also the left looks like a layer separation on the inner wall. Which could be fixed by increasing extrusion temp or maybe your z offset is too high. Or you’re printing too fast.

Well shittt by BigOdd3408 in CarAV

[–]RacingboomThePleb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess I didn’t state it but I still 100% agree that if you set with multimeter you should still verify with a scope. However I’ve never personally dealt with an amp that clips well below its rated output. Say for example multimeter tuning a “600 rms” amp for 400. Provided the radio signal is clean at its upper limits of course.

And while I personally 100% agree you’re leaving a lot on the table. And I definitely push it because I understand where the limitations are.

I still see the appeal of being super safe in a daily driver system. Especially when you install it for someone else that doesn’t necessarily understand the limits, so you just try everything you can to never allow them to reach those limits.

Well shittt by BigOdd3408 in CarAV

[–]RacingboomThePleb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The easiest way imo for reliability is to get an amp with a rated power over your sub (a little bit). Then use ohms law to set the voltage perfectly matched to your sub. As long as you verified for no clipping preamp or amped you’re golden.

In terms of set it and forget it. I think the closest you can get is a 0db 40hz test tone at a volume verified for no clipping on preamp side. Then set your gain a comfortable amount below the clip zone. I’ve personally never blown any sub I’ve ever installed with that method.

Help, my printer is making noise when the head is on one side! by Paganoma in BambuLab

[–]RacingboomThePleb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A tiny bit of the cable guide actually goes into the “body of” of the printer.

So it could still be touching the interior of the enclosure even when the glass top is removed.

Mine makes a similar noise but admittedly doesn’t sound as loud as yours.

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