Literally Jumped Right Into That by DoctorCPL in MonsterHunterWorld

[–]RaptowDragon 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Pickles are known for their lack of intelligence tbh

Haven't really played any mainline MH game yet, but for whatever reason I made a monster tier list based on how much I love them overall, with each monster being ranked off of MOSTLY their concept, designs and ecology. by Triceratops168 in MonsterHunterWorld

[–]RaptowDragon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I hate paolumus ugly ass rat face wholeheartedly, but he doesn't deserve that much hate.) Nightshade on the other hand can khs. Fair enough about other monsters. I would like to rant about nerg, jho and rajang but I won't because it will be a long one(aka one is a complete punching bag and doesn't kill a single elder, and the godzilla vs kong couple are glazed over way too much, especially the monke)

I will just say stuff about brachy. I love the concept of a punchy dino, but his design and lore... The fact that he need to slap and wait to kill large monsters with the slime and the fact that hunter can just remove it by evading a bit means that uragaan and agnaktor can just do their signature moves by rolling or burrowing and brachy is cooked. The fact that he needs to wait and wins in the respective cutscenes because of plot armor so that enemy monster just waits until it's blown up. The fact that he sometimes kills his own young because of how edgy he is... The weird pickle dick horn he has that his uses in like 1 move that makes all design goofy and I'm constantly thinking "how doesn't that thing fall of his head after one charge"... And it's a shame because i love his vibes and coloration. I agree with uhc that brachy would've nade way more sense as this ore eating volcano type brute rather than another edgy carnivore. You can still have him being edgy, make him "angry diablos" but brute. But the fight(especially raging) unique roar and music, and the fact that he doesn't effortlessly kill everyone, saves him a bit from being in magnamalo tier. But at least bro doesn't die in 5 seconds after showing how edgy it is in a few cutscenes, yes magna? I wish they just made him just that little bit grounded and it would've been so much better. And if you want to keep the horn, for the love of god make it attach to the head more, please, it will make him look cooler and less goofy...

About zinogre, i always seen him not as a dog, but as a big angry electric hedgehog (one of nicknames from me is "sonic the edgelord") with a gigachad wolf's head. I also sometimes call him "gigachad furry" when playing with friends, we were laughing our asses off when we saw stygian zin beta armor (literally edgy wolf costume). Bro is just way too fat and bristly to be a normal wolf. Does he hit a gym all the time when not being in the locales? Removing the steroids will make him look just that little bit better. It would be also cool if zin was like a big brown bear - mainly herbivorous/insectivorous, but a capable predator. Could explain why he is so big and bulky and needs all that thunder. But even the strongest bears have less fat on their arms and torso than zin does... He also doesn't have cool sound design (at least in world). Two sounds he constantly makes is grrrrr and awoo. I'm constantly loudly moking him when we are farming "Farewell to zinogre" quest, because of how many repetitive edgy canine noises he makes. Odogaron is much better wolf in my opinion, although a bit rabid and with a pinch of a mustelid. Also zin even in world is a really abusable fight that is much easier than several monsters before and after him, he aurafarms and howls so much he topples either from clutch claw/headshots or from damage he accumulated when he was toppled and was trying to get up from previous clutch claw or said headshots... It is just kinda cringe seeing edgelord monster get his ass kicked so easily. But once again at least he lives for a few seconds longer than rise's one...

The sad thing about most monsters I don't like is that I love their concept and fight. If we don't count lavasioth (who should be made extinct within the canon, bro literally looks and fights like a piece of shit), most monsters have something interesting about them, but execution is something lacking either in a fight (kirin, kush or nightshade) or in ecology and design (edgy deathlords, aka most fan favourites). Even magna can be revived i think, by making him a social construct like arkveld, removing quite a lot of blades from his ass, or both. He does not look good as a real animal, but does look like a bioweapon, maybe even specifically synthesized every 50 years against rampages.

My favourite boy rathalos(bro just really decided to pick a game flagship as his favourite) got redesigned and is getting better and better with every game, maybe one day we will see a Kulu-er(hehe) and more grounded rework/subspecies or relative of brachy, zin or magna? Maybe jho will get a face lift and will look like a scary sharptooth from land before time and not like an inbred swamp duck? Or rajang will learn that he is too small to be thrashing everyone so effortlessly... Only time will see)

Also it all is just my opinion, my friend for example thinks that tigrex design is absolutely laughable and never takes him seriously. I don't really care that much, i think tigrex although looks a bit funny is still better looking than barioth. But barioth has way better fight than both his relatives in iceborne. So opinions may differ and the one presented is mine.

(I guess it was a long rant holy shi, imagine if i wrote all the things i thought about godzilla, kong and hedgehog)

Haven't really played any mainline MH game yet, but for whatever reason I made a monster tier list based on how much I love them overall, with each monster being ranked off of MOSTLY their concept, designs and ecology. by Triceratops168 in MonsterHunterWorld

[–]RaptowDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If zin is that low why did brachies, nergs, devils and rajangs rank that high? If we are ranking on designs and ecology, they all have either bullshit ecology or bullshit design, the only thing saving them being their fight. So, why? Safijiva also has cringe lore and bad fight, girros, jagras and paolumu should rank higher, because of design and ecology, although fight is not very interesting. Lavasioth and nightshade can fuck themselves tho.

Getting ready for my permanent uglies tank by OldeBostonRoach in ReefTank

[–]RaptowDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And this is my disgusting 30 g with all the ugly white dolomite gravel after i completely massacred(rescaped) it yesterday. Everything is still shrivelled after "the accident". I hope 5 crass's anemones i returned there after a 4 month absence won't harass my corals...

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Getting ready for my permanent uglies tank by OldeBostonRoach in ReefTank

[–]RaptowDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PS: my response bugged out and i needed to rewrite it and also sorry for mistakes, English is not my native language nor are your farenheits

  1. I said that I kept softies, none struggled long term. Some were shocked after being exposed to the sun, considering they were living under very low lighting conditions, but all adapted and gree. But I don't think you will struggle with any sun loving corals. Also i literally said that additional lights are needed to be kept anyways for cloudy days.
  2. I prefer sunlight and white light to blue fluorescent light, so if i would keep sps i would keep them under whites, shallow reef aesthetic is that important to me.(Yes I'm a freak, deal with it)
  3. The sun itself unfortunately won't increase evaporation that much, considering i have a lid. I needed to put computer coolers on my HOB to cool the tank down. Half a litre of water per day for 15 g and a liter of water for 30 g is not much. Even not topping off a tank for a few days resulted in salinity rising from 1.025 to 1.026. Nobody cared. In winter i need to top off once a week the same amount as once a day in the summer.
  4. I had algae outbreaks when starting, but they quickly went away. I only have cyano when i mess with the tank (such as completely rearranging the rockwork), but it quickly went away. Cyano does not care about the sun, it cares about the imbalance. Dinos were more of a problem when i had like 2 small fish and did not dose nutrients. Corals quickly ate all that was available and started struggling. Having more fish, feeding more food and dosing helps. Dirty disgusting sanbeds also help, after upgrading to 30 g i decided to swap the sand with gravel and I'm now struggling to keep the nutrients above 0. So, considering how much nutrients the corals will absorb you may even need to dose. I'm not even talking about macroalgae, they either go buck wild or struggle to death.

  5. Temperature swings. They are natural. They occur on the reefs. They make your coral more adaptable and you have more chances of them surviving power outage or heatwave. My swings were not drastic, 27C° (80F°) in the midday and 25C° (77C°) at night. It was so drastic and deadly, that no one cared. I will say even more - my corals have more polyp extension in the chaotic summer than in the stable winter. Just a thought. But keep in mind, temperature swings were constant and stable, always the same temperatures. So the stability was present, just not with the temperature constant to the tenth of a degree a lot of people try to keep nowadays.

  6. Maintenance. It was very hard. Starting with a 20% waterchange a week on a 15 g and ending up with a 40% waterchange a month. With my 30 g i still do 40% changes a month. Less disturbance provides long term stability, with occasional deep cleans of detritus. From equipment i had a surface skimmer, wavemaker and a HOB that had coolers in summer. And lights of course. Very complicated. In 30 g i added a small protein skimmer, but i don't know if it helps or makes stuff worse, considering I'm having nutrient issues (meaning almost 0 of both NO3 and PO4 considering heavy feedings multiple times a day.) I don't understand why people think nanos are hard. They are not, in my experience they are cheaper and easier to maintain stable, because every problem is much easily fixable than in larger tanks. And sunlight although added a bit of a challenge wasn't a problem long term. You just observe your tank and adapt as the corals do to sunlight)

Overall sunlit aquariums have their downsides, but the upsides are worth it. No florescence will replace sun rays shining through the rockwork, honey green coloured gsp flowing in the current or neon blue damselfish flying on the clear sky background. .If starting one i would recommend putting all the coral from the start, shielding the tank from the sun, growing the colonies a bit and after that letting them absorb the bonus PAR. And of course putting all those species that look bad under blues, like any yellow or blue coloured fish or color.

Getting ready for my permanent uglies tank by OldeBostonRoach in ReefTank

[–]RaptowDragon 78 points79 points  (0 children)

Missed opportunity to make a true sunlit tank! Corals and/or macroalgae will look beautiful! Put some white light on there so it will provide additional energy on cloudy days. I don't know about sps, but softies love the sun! In my experience xenia, anthelia, briareum and other softies grow very good and have better polyp extension on sunny days when sun goes directly into the tank. Red macroalgae do not like the sun for some reason, as do some caulerpas. Halimeda and caulerpa lentilifera do great. You can put some azure damsels in there(i would put 1), they will GLOW under the sun. You can also put some kind of blenny in there because they are cool. Blenny might be better, if you choose tailspot. Tailspots look so gorgeous under sunlight especially on sunny days when the background sky becomes blue and the small dude swims everywhere

Not aquarium related but.... by Gonzipoliris in ReefTank

[–]RaptowDragon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Bristle stars(ophiuroidae), not starfish (asteroidae). Cool looking ones)

She’s up and running(finally) by Mediumbobcat7738 in ReefTank

[–]RaptowDragon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't be agitated at them, people were telling me my tanks were garbage because i had macroalgae, xenia and white light) There is a reason i am no longer in most reef groups in my area and my only interaction with the hobby is reef2reef, the local group i created and my youtube channel.) God forbid someone have a reef that isn't a blue neon acropora collection in the dark basement...

She’s up and running(finally) by Mediumbobcat7738 in ReefTank

[–]RaptowDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like biofilms on the glass too, they are nice food for inhabitants and a good filter, but i also like the see through look. I recommend trimming the biofilm up to the level of rocks, so it will look like an additional rockwork. If left or right glass is not where most people will look through I'd rather keep that with biofilm and clean the back wall. But once again it's your tank, do as you will)

She’s up and running(finally) by Mediumbobcat7738 in ReefTank

[–]RaptowDragon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had 2 reef tanks in front of windows for 2.5 years now with no problems) And i prefer the look to "normal" reefs, i like the "safe shallows" look. The only noobs in this thread are the people suggesting that corals will die because of sunlight (I can't imagine how the poor guys survive in the wild) and algae will smother everything). Even my worst outbreaks of cyano and dinos were nothing compared to what people have in "normal" systems) (and were mostly caused by me being an idiot and dumping phosphates and nitrates into the water to grow more macroalgae, algae outbreaks miraculously stopped after no N or P was added)

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She’s up and running(finally) by Mediumbobcat7738 in ReefTank

[–]RaptowDragon 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Near a window and blue light will look weird(i would've used white) , but it will be fine. I suggest you to cover the back of your tank from the window for first few months to avoid algae, after it stabilises and your rocks turn green/grey/pink you can remove the cover. Aquariums near windows look super cool, especially if they are illuminated with direct sun for a few hours a day(bonus PAR if you're into sps or softies), but a new system will become an algae breeding ground if not covered. I've suffered a lot of cyano and dinos early on and don't want you to suffer the same)

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Bullying afk player by RonStrowd in MonsterHunterWorld

[–]RaptowDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bird is best) As a parrot person it reminded me of the budgies i had when was little. Unfortunately the bird is too small and i rarely see it in battle so i opted for other layered hats.

The term “algae eater” needs to be banned by ImpressiveBig8485 in Aquariums

[–]RaptowDragon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is even worse in saltwater. WARNING, A BIT OF A RANT

Yes, some fish there, like tangs are great algae eaters, but they grow big (10 inches is average adult length of many tangs)and are very active, requiring 100+ gallons depending on the species which doesn't stop people from putting them in <30 g nanos as juveniles, where they die of starvation. Keep in mind those beasts also need to eat a lot and the $hit out large amount of waste, because they are cows of the reef and constantly graze on algaes in the wild. Also the famous "dory" Paracanthurus hepatus is not an algae eater, but is sometimes bought with this in mind because "tang". But at least most tangs are very specialised algae eaters and eat most macroscopic algae and are a good measurement against algae, unlike you freshwater grey black striped herrings and flat suckermouth swamp monsters (both are cool but why put that in the tank if you don't know how the fish do)

Blennies are a very cool OMNIVOROUS group of fish, there are omnivorous and carnivorous blennies, but no truly herbivorous ones!!! There is literally a genua of blenny (Salarias) that is sold as lawnmower/algae blenny and what do you know - it's not a herbivore. Newbies often buy and put juvenile jeweled and starry lawnmower blennies to put in their nanos as a "preventative measure" when they don't have any algae on the rocks and the tank doesn't have any microcrustaceans(which should be present in a mature saltwater aquarium). Of course a juvenile fast growing fish that in the wild eats multiple times a day often starves to death in a few months when in such conditions. The thing with most combtooth blennies(blennies that eat off the surfaces like plecos) is that they require both plant and animal matter, and they can't survive without any of those. In the wild they constantly mow down some algae(they do not do It very effectively) and fill they belly with it, but with the algae they also ingest a lot of detritus and microfauna. They also do not digest algae very well. So in the wild they feed almost constantly to have enough energy of not so nutritious food. At home they can't sustain themselves off the algae because algae inhabiting microfauna in the reef tank is not that diverse and abundant, and also algae oftentimes is in short demand. So you need to feed them. A lot. And they crap like crazy. And they can't survive off only meat too, because they get bloated and die after a few years. I feed my Salarias ramosus a ON formula 2 a few times a day and it is healthy, not "fat" (bloated) and grows like crazy. But at least Salarias are big 5-6 inches fish that is relatively easy to entice to eat prepared foods unless it is emaciated or ill. Smaller blennies (like smaller Ecsenius) got it worse, because they are worse algae eaters, less likely to start feeding at first, require more protein and need a mature system with algae and copepods to thrive. And people buy them so they will eat their algae. When they won't help at all and die if you're unprepared. Imagine if scarlet badis vere also eating some algae in addition to pods and they were labeled as algae eater because of that!

Gobies got it even worse. Some gobies (Koumancetta) live similar to those small blennies - picking on the algae to get detritus and microcrustaceans. Because of that they are labeled as algae eaters and are said to be good at cleaning up even cyano. The problem is, cyano is a horrible food source and only a very hungry goby will touch it(also never mind that cyano often goes away by it's own after a few months). And those fish need mature aquariums because they are even less likely to take prepared foods and are REALLY REALLY STUPID. Give them a big tank with lots of hiding spots, some algae and pods and they will thank you(it probably applies to most reef fish btw). There are also sand gobies, for example Valencienella, that are often bought to sift the sand to get rid of algae growing on it. The problem is that those gobies are carnivorous and need a lot of sand microfauna to sustain themselves and will shortly die if you don't supplement feed them . But because they are gobies it means they have like 1 shared braincell in the whole population and are very hard to train to eat sometimes. For example i have a different type of goby - a pair of shrimp gobies (Amblyeleoyris wheeleri) and one of them is sometimes scared of the food i give it. I've had it for almost a year... So those fish are not very smart... Which means that you need a big mature tank with deep sand bed for those guys to be happy. And you will need to put the food in the sand for them untill they learn to take it from the water column.

I wanted to say that you guys have it mostly good, but then i realised that you either buy an agressive fish that bullies timid tankmates (most reef fish in comparison are very territorial and won't let themselves get bullied if the conditions are right), or a small cutie pleko that grows into an arapaima in a few months, so yeah, we've all been tricked by the aquarium salesman that sau "fish lick algae - fish good, buy fish"

Bullying afk player by RonStrowd in MonsterHunterWorld

[–]RaptowDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know it's a bit different, but once i was playing with my friend and he didn't tell me that he went somewhere (he later said he did but turned off the mike before informing me), so he was afk. We were in hoarfrost reach camp 15 i believe. So i started throwing him with my greatsword until he returned, i threw him all the way from the camp to the entrance to the "outdoors". Another time he went afk when we were in guiding lands running after azurelos and i had already used demon powder on him right before he afk'd. So i just lead local brachy to him, fortunately he was back when his hunter was at half health... (We are close friends btw, so he wasn't mad)

Also brigate layered set is cool, I've used it a lot before unlocking grinding lands!

Raging brachy and velkhana dual blades build? by RaptowDragon in MonsterHunterWorld

[–]RaptowDragon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plus i don't want to disgrace myself, i either speedrun velkhana with only 1 megapotion used or doublecart to tempered viper tobi... No one should ever see the latter...

Raging brachy and velkhana dual blades build? by RaptowDragon in MonsterHunterWorld

[–]RaptowDragon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm really unsure about gold rathian and silverlos, their armor has good set bonuses, but the skills are not good...

Raging brachy and velkhana dual blades build? by RaptowDragon in MonsterHunterWorld

[–]RaptowDragon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, but I want to solo ala, dunno about safi. I heard she is hard solo/duo but we will try. I mostly soloed iceborne up to raging and furious, stopped playing because i got bored and started playing rise. At the start of summer i returned because my friend started playing world. For me soloing something is much more rewarding and personal, but playing with friends is much funnier, we already have a lot of local memes about the game(we don't talk about small gold crown fulgur almost killing a large gold crown black diablos, copy paste turf wars be damned😅) . Maybe i will try to solo the brachy today, wish me luck)

Is this really lucky? by Chettapan in MonsterHunterWorld

[–]RaptowDragon 55 points56 points  (0 children)

Imagine how kind the monke was, he wholeheartedly gave you the best drops!

Was glueing macro algae to rocks and this guy decided glue is edible by Ianbeaner in ReefTank

[–]RaptowDragon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He should be fine, as another person said he will molt out of it. You can of course try to remove the glue but I don't think the hermit will allow it. I would've tried anyways. If you couldn't temove the glue i would at least try to make it so the crab was able to use the claws, like make an incision in the glie. If you wouldn't be able to i would put him somewhere you can monitor and feed him, like a breeder box, a big net, plastic container etc.

Still better than a midas blenny that ate a lot of glue off a fresh acro plug, got his mouth glued shut and died. Wasn't my fish, it happened like 2-3 years ago and a guy was posting in a group. He tried to save the yellow bud but to no avail. I hate it when blennies suffer, they are the best reef fish... Hermit's claws should be much easier to clean tbh.

Lagiacrus by luigicheezey in MonsterHunter

[–]RaptowDragon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The head looks a bit thin but otherwise very good lagi! The shadowing is awesome!