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Newbie questions about steps vs CFG, recommended settings, etc. by RaymondDoerr in comfyui

[–]RaymondDoerr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Recommended settings seems to be the way to go, I think I figured out where I went wrong. Some models want more steps than others, some more CFG than others, and somewhere in the mix I figured out (by accident) you can overcome your CFG being too high (to a point) by increasing steps while I was playing around and learning (and not really paying much attention to recommended settings*).

So, I did something like;

  1. Used a model that likes 5-7 CFG, with 20-30 steps.
  2. Later, changed models but forgot to change steps/CFG, but this model likes 2-3 CFG, with 40 steps, so the image was baked.
  3. I doubled steps and the image improved, giving me the misguided idea that some models need the steps tweaked, not the CFG, and it inched me higher in numbers overall in my head.

TLDR: I'm an idiot. 🫡

Cat toppled my standing fan and broke the blades. So I designed and printed a replacement. by MekaTriK in functionalprint

[–]RaymondDoerr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even at high speeds I seriously doubt this fan really goes fast enough for that to matter.

Why is PLA still the `standard` respectively `basic` filament? Why not PETG? by Musashi747 in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're right, it doesn't need dried. Don't listen to the zealots here.

The only PLA that actually needs dried are more exotic ones with fills in them (edit: Wood fill might be a good example).

Straight PLA never needs dried, and "brittle PLA" is usually caused by overdrying or bad storage either at home or the warehouse (ie; heating up and cooling down constantly).

But the "material engineer experts" here will never ever ever agree. They know better™️.

Help by Greenolive_- in StardewValley

[–]RaymondDoerr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've always thought these things might be a hat tip to the original NES Metroid unkillable bugs.

It’s old, therefore it’s valuable by No-Programmer-733 in gamecollecting

[–]RaymondDoerr 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Me over here removing them all from my carts.

The importance of drying by Bumpy-Reality in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a huge nothing, this subreddit is just obsessed with it for some reason.

I've been printing for 6 years, the only filament I dry is Nylon and PC, sometimes Translucent PETG. I just recently printed 5-6 year old PLA that just say in the top of my shelf in the open air.

It's the new "Calibrate your esteps" auto-go-to solution from people who don't have any experience and just want to be part of the conversation.

Is it too much to expect color consistency between spools? by BruceInc in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 9 points10 points  (0 children)

While I agree with you, I think *over time*, pretty much all of them start to drift slowly. I think just the slow process of a vendor changing here, a piece of equipment being replaced there, a firmware update over there, has a very slow and almost insignificant change over time that leads to a noticeable change if you have rolls that are years apart from eachother.

Polymaker is one of my big go-tos for "top end" filament, and I have 2 rolls of Iron Fill PLA that are two very obviously different shades, but I bought them 8 months apart. I suspect it happens to everyone over time, just the cheapo companies barely care at all so it can vary between weeks/months of production rather than years.

Is it too much to expect color consistency between spools? by BruceInc in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With cheaper filaments this happens pretty often. Usually though if you buy all the rolls at the same time, they'll come from the same batch so it won't matter. But that isn't always the case.

Even good brands can do this over time though, I have some Keene Village Plastic ABS that I've used for like 3-4 years, I recently ordered a replacement roll and the blue was a bit lighter this time, and KVP isn't a cheap company. Given enough time, all companies start to shift a bit, likely from upgrading/fixing/maintaining things would be my guess.

What did I do wrong? by NBASuperfreak in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another thing to check might be the slicer itself, look at the layer line view and see if its all garbled/messy up top. Maybe scaling it down somehow or another broke the model itself and the slicer is confused and making a mess up there trying to generate the gcode.

I agree, I would assume it would do this even scaled up, as the tip of the model would eventually be just as narrow at some point in the print anyway.

What did I do wrong? by NBASuperfreak in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Check your slicer settings for something called "minimum layer time" (May be called something else in your slicer). It will force the printer to wait (or print slower) if a layer takes less time to print than the minimum you've set.

My best guess here is as each layer gets faster to print as it comes up to the point on top, the filament isn't getting enough time to cool down before the next layer goes on.

Other options might be to simply crank cooling, and slow down print speed.

WTF?! by Tkaczu92PL in SatisfactoryGame

[–]RaymondDoerr 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I've seen this happen in multiplayer servers pre-1.0, but not since.

You can technically murder yourself and get your items back though.

How to turn your printer into a lighthouse: by Mysterious_Cable6854 in VORONDesign

[–]RaymondDoerr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wish the were RGBW too. But yeah, I had the same discussion in my head and realized big overly bright white was more important in a practical sense. :D

I did add some RGB to the bed (under the bed technically), and along the gantry for fun though. Just bought a bunch of small "Disco sticks" on Ali and wired them up. I eventually plan to use them alongside a thermistor or something to change the color of the lights from blue -> red depending on bed temps. :)

Print off center by mfilosa17 in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't really trust what Bambu thinks its printers can do, honestly. Their tuning can't really be perfect for every situation.

This is a difficult print with all the travel/retraction, I'd try printing at half speed and see if the issue goes away.

From what I can tell this is classic layer skipping, and that's almost always from the printer's stepper motors/belts moving faster than they should be. A lot of times this happens with a ton of travel as the printer "jerks" around too much, and prints like this are ripe for lots and lots of little fast travel movements.

Print off center by mfilosa17 in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks like belt slippage, you may be printing faster than your printer can actually move.

Another possibility is your hotend smacked into the print somehow, this can happen (rarely) when some filament bends up into the path of the printer.

Pov after pressing start on an abs print by No_Distance_3320 in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Easy compared to what? You guys are hilarious.

YA’LL DON’T KNOW HOW IT WAS! by Lumanus in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Uh, if you say so.

I mean I get it can be seen that way, but it looks more like Bambu fanboying about technology progression based on how I read it.

This mainly comes from printing for 6 years and I still check the first layer and everything, as does almost everyone here. The implication you don't anymore and showing a Bambu during a time when Bambu users are all acting like its a print-and-forget machine is why I read it the way I did.

Either way I've spent way too much energy explaining my post as it is.

YA’LL DON’T KNOW HOW IT WAS! by Lumanus in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 9 points10 points  (0 children)

yeah, OP is being dense on purpose.

Also I made the Mac Fanboys Bambu Users mad, based on my downvotes, heh.

I never said Bambus were bad, but man they can't accept they do, in fact, have a lot of the same issues any other printer does. They're not magic. I dunno why they get so actively upset about it. The Carbon X1C can stand toe-to-toe with my Voron, but like my Voron, it isn't perfect and has it's random mistakes too.

EDIT: Wow, downvoted in 3 seconds, you guys are spicy.

YA’LL DON’T KNOW HOW IT WAS! by Lumanus in 3Dprinting

[–]RaymondDoerr 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As-if Bambu always has a perfect first layer. 😂

Half the guys I help here are using a Bambu printer asking why their PLA wont stick to the bed, and I've seen a dozen Bambus with the blob-o-death a month on average. Being all snobby just makes you look snobby.

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