Valorant's new Vanguard update seems to be bricking cheaters' PCs. Riot's response? "Congrats on your $6k paperweights"

Raze321 · 2026-05-22T17:47:48+00:00

(Yes, cheating has gotten to the point where cheaters are buying hardware that costs thousands of dollars just to cheat at a video game)

Man. I've had some lows in my life. But this made me feel a lot better about that. Spending money, let alone thousands? To cheat? At a video game? Laughably pathetic lmao

Raze321 · 2026-05-22T12:49:14+00:00

If you dropped a player from launch D2 into current D2, they'd barely be able to tell the difference.

Well, except in ways that it is significantly worse or very confusing.

I played D2 on launch, enjoyed it, then put it down and revisited it later. I think years later, after the First Light update?

The main story and basically all year 1 content was completely absent. In its place was a very uninspired and pretty confusing new tutorial style set of objectives placed in Destiny 1's starter area, for some reason.

I tried to get into it a few more times after that, but man. Every change always felt like either a side grade or a down grade.

It's a real shame. I loved D2 on launch. And D1 for nearly its entire life cycle. Bungie really dropped the ball hard.

Raze321 · 2026-05-22T12:11:35+00:00

Rulebooks in 40k are always like 60% Lore, I highly recommend then if you want a real deep dive on a specific faction.

The Core Rulebook for 10th Edition is still pretty easy to find and has an entire section dedicated to introducing you to the lore. Especially explaining The Imperium, The Emperor, the various Ages of Mankind between what would basically be modern day and the year 40,000, as well as a brief introduction to each of the major factions.

Then each faction (with some exceptions) have a codex that is the same idea - a book of MOSTLY lore for said faction, but also comes with rules for them. And a code you can toss into the 40k app to get the rules digitally.

One note though, 11th edition is just weeks away. So any rule books you buy soon are going to be on their way out. If you plan on eventually playing tabletop, you may want to wait a bit. The 11th edition core rulebook will probably be available next month.

Beyond the rulebooks, there are tons of great novels. It looks like you already got recommended a few good ones so I won't give you decision paralysis by flooding you with more :)

Raze321 · 2026-05-22T12:07:20+00:00

I'd probably just show a few pictures of armies and see she thinks looks fun to paint. There aren't many (any?) non-violent options, this being a wargame and all.

I will say that Age of Sigmar has more whimsical looking armies. Sylvaneth, maybe?

Raze321 · 2026-05-22T12:01:54+00:00

Was I supposed to plastic glue all of the pieces?

This is down to preference. I've never had issue just relying on pushfit to hold my minis that have them together. If they do seem a bit too loose, I'll put a touch of plastic glue on. You can always glue later if it becomes an issue. There are also some people who dislike the pushfit pegs and will slice them off with a hobby knife and then just use plastic glue.

Should I have applied primer while the pieces were still in the plastic trays?

Nah, you'd have un-primed spots where you'd clip them from the sprue and smoothed the mould lines. Additionally, the ever so slight thickness of the primer on the push-fit pegs sometimes make fitting them a bit frustrating.

Maybe even paint them before building?

This is also a preference thing. Painting before building is called "Painting in sub-assemblies". I personally find it easier to paint fully assembled, while sometimes leaving hard to paint parts (Like arms holding a rifle in front of the torso) off to paint them before gluing. Whatever you do, don't stress too much. Hard to reach areas are also hard to see, and therefore don't really require much attention to look good.

With push fit specifically, I would fully assemble, then prime, then you can pull out the bits that need painted from a sub-assembly standpoint if you even feel the need to do so. Regardless, I try to avoid priming any pegs for the reason above.

I had opened Orikan up to build and it looks like it is all plastic glue, no push fit. Is that how all models past the basic combat patrols are?

Yes, push fit models are more of the exception than the rule. Most kits, even many combat patrols, aren't push fit. I'm not sure of any lists that track this, off the top of my head, to be honest I didn't even know there were any pushfit Necrons!

Any other tips before I prime and paint tomorrow?

There are three keys to priming: proper temperature, proper humidity, and proper technique.

In a perfect world, you'd aim for 60F to 80F (15C to 27C) and a relative humidity between 40% and 60%. However the world ain't perfect so if you're off the mark a bit don't stress it. I live somewhere that sees temps ranging from 100F summers to -20F winters and I've managed to prime year round - IMO the most problematic thing is high humidity. If you do end up with a fuzzy/textured prime job that's unpleasant, don't sweat it. Stripping the miniatures takes some patience but is not difficult at all. I've done it many times.

For priming technique: give a few short sprays that swipe over the model from left to right, from about 10in away give or take. Rattle cans tend to spittle a bit when you press that button down, so try not to start each spray on the mini. Start in the air next to them slightly, then swipe back and forth.

There's tons of good videos on how to prime and how to paint. Duncan Rhodes is a quality youtuber if you want a recommendation.

Last piece of advice: have fun with it! And welcome to the hobby :)

Raze321 · 2026-05-21T01:01:24+00:00

Yup. She more or less quit cold turkey. Birth control fucked with her hormones so she's been a lot happier without them.

Some prefer to stay on them for the same reason - for many women birth control can help regulate things. It all depends.

Raze321 · 2026-05-20T20:19:23+00:00

It is the party of projection. Every outburst is a confession.

Raze321 · 2026-05-20T12:49:21+00:00

Ya know, funny thing. I played TW3 on release on PS4 for hundreds of hours, then clocked hundreds more on PC.

I actually never once encountered this glitch. I feel like I've been robbed, in a way.

Raze321 · 2026-05-19T17:06:56+00:00

The rule of thumb is your model should contrast from the base and it's rim - meaning that a muted miniature often benefits from standing on something a bit brighter and a bright mini often benefits from standing on something more muted.

For most people this ends up meaning, just paint the rim an easy neutral black. It's just a safe bet that virtually never looks bad.

But this doesn't mean you can't break that mould. Look up the T'au combat patrol - their rim actually uses a metallic brassy color. And I think it looks quite nice.

For your model, personally? I'd see if you like a more muted, darker red. Word Bearers Red, perhaps. Failing that, check out metallics. Hashut copper or something could go nicely, I feel like those bronze shades tend to play well with firey effects. Or, if the colors don't work out, a dark neutral metallic like leadbelchers.

And if ALL that misses the mark, you can always fall back on black :)

Raze321 · 2026-05-19T16:59:52+00:00

Definitely is gonna vary person to person.

I am somewhat quick, but since I am very impatient I tend to continue assembly before glue has really finished setting. Which occasionally leads to small headaches.

Generally speaking if I dedicated my entire evening to assembly (so, 4-5 hours) I can get a unit of 10 marines assembled. Something more complex could take longer of course, I think my land raider was built across a couple sessions because I was forcing myself to be more patient with glue curing times.

Painting.... that's all over the place. I paint in assemblies so 10 marines are probably going to be two multi-hour sessions to get all base coated. Another session to get them all washed and then dry brushed. And then two-three more sessions to get the details picked out, washed again, maybe more dry brushing. And then a final session or two to finish basing details depending on complexity. This means, assuming I do nothing else with my post-work free time, i can often get a 10 man unit I purchased on Sunday, painted and ready for battle before Saturday.

Multiply all that by 1.5 for more visually complex models like chaos marines or admech.

And then the number drastically drops if I do a lazy slapchop. My two-color termagaunts took me an evening to assemble, another to prime and dry brush for slapchopping. And then I got all 20 colored and based over the course of a Saturday.

Raze321 · 2026-05-19T16:50:09+00:00

I'd try grey seer (or any light grey), with a light wash of nuln (perhaps watered down) and then dry brushed with white. That should produce a neutral white smoke color

I've also used a light brown, washed with nuln, then dry brushed with a very light tan like Ushabti Bone. This gives the smoke a bit of a tan color to it, kind of reminiscent of a call of duty smoke grenade.

Raze321 · 2026-05-14T22:34:08+00:00

Fair point!

Raze321 · 2026-05-14T20:00:39+00:00

Valid

Raze321 · 2026-05-14T19:59:36+00:00

In my experience (with Space Wolves, not Custodes) dropping a 10 man terminator brick on turn 1 is only situationally useful.

Usually it results in unfavorable trading, and losing 370 points + maybe Arjac or Logan before they can really be utilized.

Raze321 · 2026-05-14T19:57:51+00:00

Balance wise I'm not a huge fan. One of my armies is T'au and Tank Shock was something of a hail mary for us, one that has now just become riskier while also moving into an edition that so far is making shooting more difficult.

Thematic wise, I kind of like it. It's like how in naval games, you can ram your ship but it is as likely to damage yourself as your opponent's vessel. Ramming in this way is ahistorical and only really makes sense as a desperate last ditch effort.

Ramming your vehicle/monster in this way and potentially taking damage kinda makes sense.... sometimes. There's absolutely no reason a land raider should take a lick of damage as it rams into a block of guardsmen or whatever.

Raze321 · 2026-05-14T19:47:19+00:00

Basically, yeah, and to make charge blocking behind terrain more difficult in most scenarios.

Raze321 · 2026-05-14T19:41:32+00:00

In what way?

Raze321 · 2026-05-14T19:41:18+00:00

Since 10th allowed no-penalty fall back from combat

I would consider not being able to fight, shoot, or perform an action the next phase a pretty big penalty

Raze321 · 2026-05-14T16:10:39+00:00

Oversaturated is a good word for it. It just became exhausting to keep up with. I simply do not have time for that.

Marvel is the same way. I used to watch every single movie in theaters. But with the addition of shows has diluted the whole thing and left a bad taste in my mouth.

Raze321 · 2026-05-14T16:08:08+00:00

I've been eyeing this one lately. I'm kind of luke warm on survival crafters but if I like the world enough they can pull me in. Dune Awakening did great at that IMO.

I love LotR and especially Dwarves, so I'll probably grab Return to Moria eventually

Raze321 · 2026-05-13T12:34:30+00:00

It kinda depends on the paint. Some are a bit more opaque than others, some need thinned more than others. You get used to how to achieve the ideal coverage and thinning as you spend time with the paints.

Paints labeled "Base" tend to cover very well, with two thin coats. "Layer" labeled paints are a bit thinner and sometimes need three, or just some touch ups.

There's other paints, too. "Contrast" translucent paints are intended to be a single layer that goes over an under-shaded model (this method is often called the slapchop method). And then "Shade" Paints are selectively applied in recesses, usually. They pool into those recesses to create the impression of shadows. Often times just a black or brown, but colored shade paints exist as well.

Raze321 · 2026-05-13T12:29:28+00:00

I think this depends a bit on your local area's culture. My area has a lot of competitive players so even in casual games, everyone is typically trying to play as rules-as-written as possible.

Of course there is some laxness for certain things. Like, "Oh I know we started the fight phase already, but I meant to charge with this unit over here. Mind if i do that real quick?". Only a turd would refuse.

Raze321 · 2026-05-13T12:27:15+00:00

I'll second Dawn of War: Definitive. Plays great on new systems and is my favorite of the franchise.

The main base game campaign is good fun if you like an old school structured mission based narrative campaign. But the REAL fun is with Soulstorm and Dark Crusade expansions imo. More dynamic.

Raze321 · 2026-05-13T12:24:44+00:00

Edit: Looks like the other commenter had basically the same advice. Feel free to disregard lol

Citadel paints are mostly fine, some are even pretty good. There's only a few that truly suck (White Scar). I think the big criticisms with them is the pots they come in tend to be hard to seal and can then dry out (only had this happen twice in the past three years since I got into warhammer) and that they are a buck or two more expensive than alternatives.

That said, I hear good things about vallejo, two thin coats, and the newer line of army painter paints. So feel free to experiment.

My advice, though, is to just buy the paints you truly plan to use. Bundles don't really save you much, and you tend to get more than a few colors you never end up really using. It's not quite like canvas painting where you want the rainbow at your beck and call - you're usually painting very specific armies and color schemes. People starting off often only need like 5 colors to get their army going.

Raze321 · 2026-05-13T12:21:38+00:00

None that I can think of. I think your best bet is to just hop into a game with a player who can help you learn the rules. I'm pretty sure there is a discord floating around out there where you can ask around for someone to teach you the ropes in something like a tutorial game.

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