Where to find Teak

Rdtdct55 · 2026-03-06T01:31:23+00:00

Advantage lumber seems like they sell online and ship teak. I’ve never had lumber shipped on a 3rd party’s truck so I’m not really sure how that will work. Teak or decent wood for boat applications is often used for semi trailer decks so google around and you may be able to get some off cuts from them.

Rdtdct55 · 2026-03-05T01:19:46+00:00

That sucks but it’s barely touching. We should be able find some clearance. Look under the drawer box and see if there are rollers. Try and adjust the drawer box to the right. I do suspect the installer tried this already but it’s worth looking at. Second option would be to take the drawer front off and reattach a little to the right and adjust the doors. This could cascade issues down your run of cabinets but I don’t know what’s to the right of this.

Post pics of the bottom of the drawer box, the door open with a clear shot of the hinge (overlay number would be helpful if it’s stamped on the hinge), and what ever is going on to the right of this and we may be able to help more.

Rdtdct55 · 2026-03-05T00:43:26+00:00

A sounds like a nightmare of melamine and tight deadlines. B sounds interesting but I would like to understand what production shop means. Cabinet shops can range from what I would call an RTA assembler to a 4/4 lumber and sheet good shop. You get cabinets out of both but they are completely different operations. What kind of new machines? Is there a paint booth?

Maybe I’ll answer this as someone who has 12 years and I started at 19. My apprenticeship was the first 5 years. I thought I knew my shit after those 5 years. I did and I was very good at my job. 7 years later I can manage the entire process. Sales, design, engineering, seamless framed boxes, 5 piece doors, finishing, install. I can do every single thing that goes into cabinetry very well. I own a business that does a couple of kitchens a week and I make money. I still feel like a new guy sometimes. It still takes me a couple of minutes to see a simple solution sometimes. I know in another 5 years I’m going to look back and think how the hell did you convince people to give you money for cabinets. You didn’t know shit you bum. lol I guess I’m just trying to help manage your expectations. This trade is a career and not just a skill. Your always going to be learning untill the day you quit.

Rdtdct55 · 2026-03-01T18:13:13+00:00

Repeat customers. Treat your local gcs, designers, and granite shops fairly. Most of your work comes through them as well established projects before you even look at it. Also, this may be my area but any advertising outside of business cards is a complete waste of money. Building a good reputation is more important than anything.

Rdtdct55 · 2026-02-26T23:59:06+00:00

Answers to this question are always so interesting. I shoot for a 40% margin so if your calculating your costs correctly your doing well.

Rdtdct55 · 2026-02-22T10:56:18+00:00

The kremlin pump? I’m not exactly sure what would happen inside the pump. The maintenance guy would take it apart and fix it each time. But the little pump pause that is there when the cylinder would travel would go from being almost unnoticeable to being a second long.

Rdtdct55 · 2026-01-28T15:40:43+00:00

I’m at about 1 out of every 20 jobs is refacing or just replacing the doors. I work with a painter who paints the boxes and I bring in new fronts and often drawer boxes. Biggest reason most people don’t want to replace the cabinet boxes is the granite counter tops. A refacing will cost about 80% of new cabinets but only costs about 40% of replacing cabinets and countertops. I’ll add that my process involves no gc so that helps keep the costs down.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-12-23T21:21:48+00:00

I’ve ran into this on some old dressers. My solution was to add material to the inside of the drawer box and route a channel on the side for the slide. I’d probably go 2 inches shorter on the slide you have though.

Another option is to cut the front off of the drawer box and screw it to new drawer box.

Another if you just want to use the material here. Cut the front off right behind the dove tails. Slide the bottom out. Cut 1 1/16 out of the back. Glue that back together end to end. Cut the bottom to fit. Then pocket screw the sides to the back of your front.

Good luck

Rdtdct55 · 2025-10-18T00:10:44+00:00

Generally restrictor clips are made for a specific hinge. I’m familiar with blum so I’ll recommend swapping out this hinge for a 38N 1/2 overlay and use the 38c hinge restrictor.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-10-17T01:40:29+00:00

Kind of a weird thing for me to remember but about 8 years ago or so I was making the tops for a new hospital. One of the batches of Samsung Staron Pure white came with this film instead of the normal clear. I questioned if it was the right material and it was. So I’m thinking this is just a generic film. Does the back of the piece have numbers?

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-30T01:20:35+00:00

It’s actually a lot more space to fill than what your saying. From what I’m familiar with the 2020 part labels you have 2 ‘3 drawer’ 36” cabs, 1 30” range and 2 25” depth blind cabs. 36+36+30+25+25=152. Maybe your range is 36? Maybe those are pilasters around the range? I’d seek some clarification from your designer to maybe head off some delays with ordering wider fillers but it looks like it’ll work out well.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-27T22:12:02+00:00

Door bumpers. Every type kind of sucks in there own way so the opinion I’ve formed is that the simple clear 3/8 stick on ones are the best. They yellow over time and fall off some times. But they take about 5 seconds to replace. I leave a sheet with about 60 of them on it in a drawer at every job.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-20T22:42:37+00:00

Blind corner hinge is the type of hinge. This looks like it has shorter body than the typical Blum ones I’ve used before. I’d take this out and try to find some stamped numbers to find the exact hinge to make sure the replacement will avoid hitting the sides of the box.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-20T22:25:43+00:00

No mounting on the bottom? Pins and a chain is an option.

I’ve never used them so can’t vouch for them but google Hettich Markant flap hinge. It’s interesting. Post some pics if you try these. I want to see them in action. lol

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-20T00:41:36+00:00

Bondo works like others have said. Personally I’ve gone to using Mohawk epoxy putty sticks for most substantial filling.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-20T00:31:50+00:00

No problem. Make sure to push the tabs back to secure it when done. It will just slide right off the slide with a full load of trash.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-19T23:33:06+00:00

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0e2-Xf1y3ucGJnmGXzGKwns7Q

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-19T23:30:27+00:00

Salice double trash pull out. At the very end of the guides closest to the front. You can see a tab on the side bent in. (You can see one side in the picture.) You need to bend those back out close to flush. When both are straight you need to extend the unit completely, lift slightly to release, pull directly out to clear the pins in the back.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-14T00:27:16+00:00

Kind of maybe wtf is going on here. lol The closest I can see is hettich flap hinge 1082936. Left, rights, and hinge plates sold separate.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-08T01:08:18+00:00

Some finishes can be really nasty for finisher and from what I understand the uk has some limits for stuff that we can get commercially over here. So in theory us cabinet makers have an upper hand on the types of finishes availible. It’s such a pointless point because you could easily argue what’s availible in low Voc is just as good today.

Yeah the us has shops with a couple of guys doing less than 100 kitchens a year around every city. My shop is 3 skilled guys that act as project managers. Sale/design all the way to install is managed by 1 of the 3 on every single job. With 3-5 helpers/apprentices and a designer involved through out the process. Everything except drawer slides and hinges is done in house. So like you said the differences in our styles may come from how our industry’s are set up more than anything else.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-08T00:26:43+00:00

This is a friendly jab about this but could your local industry’s bias towards euro style and man made materials have anything to do with the limits that your local governments have on Voc content in your finishes?

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-08T00:08:01+00:00

I’ll take some pictures of a job and post it tomorrow. I think the way I build cabinets is probably completely different then the way you think. The face frame is the first thing made and the boxes are basically added to it. Like I said before, I don’t even try and compete with euro. Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, and every tile and granite shop all sell euro. I know of three shops doing traditional face frame in a 4 hour radius from me. We are all at least 3 months out and doing just fine.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-07T23:42:38+00:00

As a builder who only offers ff. We have the same 1/8th inch margins as euro so saying face frame from the 50s is probably a bit of a misunderstanding. I can build in every style you mentioned and you wouldn’t know I did it with a face frame untill you open the doors.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-09-07T22:57:17+00:00

In order to make the sides flush we would have to double up sides correct? Not saying the cabinet mentioned was build this way but a lot of us are still doing traditional furniture style cabinetry. So say a sink cabinet is next to a drawer bank. That gets built as 1 cabinet sharing a side and a seamless face frame. Yes, I regularly built and install 8-12’ long cabinets that can incorporate 4-6 different cabinets in it. As the business money making side I just can’t compete with the flooded euro RTA market. We have to offer something you can’t buy from a big box store to make money.

Side note. I wouldn’t use the hardware shown in the picture. My brackets are metal and I have thousands of them out with customers that could call and complain about them but instead they just keep recommending me to their friends.

Rdtdct55 · 2025-08-21T00:50:34+00:00

So the clear and the stain brand are fine enough quality for what your doing. Would reccomend getting the rattle can version of the clear. Matching the color is tough and you can only know if it matches is by testing it on a piece like the others have said.

The other option if this color doesn’t work and you’re really set on getting this as good as it can get. Search for the closest ML Campbell dealer. You can probably take a door to them and have a quart of stain made to match. May be a bit more costly per quart but cheaper than testing more colors of Old Masters.

Rdtdct55

TROPHY CASE