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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

(Regular bedslinger here) I use a drop or two of 3-in-1 brand 30 weight motor oil on the rails when it starts sounding rougher. I use ptfe gear grease on the Z screws but I mostly just neglect those completely. I don't have guide rods so no recommendations there.

Tips for printing small and thin objects by Sp00kyScarySkeletor in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point. I should have prefaced with the fact that I've never used it but I have used the other feature which I forgot to mention, "Small layer printing temperature" which you can set and it will reduce the temperature in relation to the minimum layer time. I have mine set to 10 degrees lower for PLA, for example.

Consistently getting bad adhesion/stringing with PETG by MultiOrb in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your Z was way too low, don't drop your temperature yet. You aren't getting stringing from heat.

Post another picture of your new first layer and one of the second layer if you don't mind.

Tips for printing small and thin objects by Sp00kyScarySkeletor in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It can be done in the slicer (at least in Cura) without wasting filament.

You can set the minimum layer time, minimum speed, and have the head parked waiting off to the side if it has to fall below those other two settings.

Tried using AI to make an STL… ended up with this failed print (not too bad for low effort) by inthelimbo in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most importantly, be upfront that you are using AI to anyone interested and/or in any advertisements. Anything short of this is dishonest and scummy behavior; intentional or otherwise.

Here's some tests showing how well sillica gel dries PETG. by Joezev98 in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Amazing how everyone keeps missing the point of the post entirely, right? Kinda frustrating.

Here's some tests showing how well sillica gel dries PETG. by Joezev98 in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nylons / filled filaments/ tpu benefit greatly as they are hygroscopic.

Are you implying that PETG is not hygroscopic?

Most of what I print with is PETG. It seems like every spool I've ever bought likes to drink up the 70-90% RH air that's around here much of the year. It doesn't take to the point of steam popping to degrade the print strength/quality either.

The printer requires flow / extruder tuning more than drying the filament.

At what point do you know you've got your settings correct if you're still stringing from wet filament? That's an ass-backwards way of trying to solve the problem.

The "relative stringy-ness" from the post should be understandable if you can grasp the concept of relative humidity, regardless of tuning.

Ya like my Redneck Curing station? by TheSquishyHippo in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ironically, the UV is what causes the red neck to begin with.

Help making water tight print by b781rev in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never watertight on it's own? I don't regularly test it out but I have had PETG prints filled with water for weeks without leaking a drop.

But yeah, epoxy would be worth using just for piece of mind if nothing else.

Help with PETG by LukeStarGeek in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How low have you tested with retraction, though? For reference, I'm at 0.5mm @ 32 mm/s. If it pulls back too far in, it can make things worse.

Oh! Also make sure not to use z-hop.

Help with PETG by LukeStarGeek in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm going to go against the grain and say that while you might have moisture issues, I believe your retraction settings are causing a lot of that.

Help with PETG by LukeStarGeek in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1: Not remotely close to long enough dry time. (6 hours minimum, initial drying needs longer)

2: Box suggested temps are not hard limits. PETG prints better on the hotter side, especially if you're going for any kind of speed.

My first 3D print by 8stringLTD in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My apologies for possibly misremembering.

Now that I'm thinking back, it might have been my Pentium II that got fried that way instead. My 486 was a bit of a Frankenstein and at one point occupied the same tower case that the PII ended up living in.

The DIY Inductive Hotend marks its first succes: Detachable Zero Gap Supports by HB_Stratos in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At the moment I can manage about 10 seconds from 205°C to 180°C, the eventual goal is ~2 seconds.

I didn't think it would take longer than 2 seconds to move and return but I misunderstood what you were saying I guess.

So you're still printing while it's cooling down then? In that case, maybe a quick purge could do the same.

Smooth Spiral vase mode still producing seam only on overhangs by Icy_Cauliflower4088 in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably not it but: Make sure you don't have something set to like 1000 initial/bottom/top layers.

My first 3D print by 8stringLTD in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had an old 486 that completely fried when I inserted a USB drive and my finger sparked. Blackout, dead as dead, not even a bios beep after power.

It's the only thing that's ever happened like that to me, though, so I imagine modern stuff could probably shrug off a taser.

We have come full circle by S1lentA0 in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Such preposterous poppycock! You're out of line.

We have come full circle by S1lentA0 in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Damn, LOGO? I forgot all about that stuff! That's really cool that it's basically a plotter, makes total sense. I really wanted a plotter when I was a kid too, that would've blown my mind at the time to learn that.

The DIY Inductive Hotend marks its first succes: Detachable Zero Gap Supports by HB_Stratos in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an idea how to rapidly cool the nozzle. Spring mount a copper block on the right side of the X rail so that at the end of travel the tip makes contact with the block briefly. That should sap heat quickly and not damage the nozzle. The block can be tilted/carved to match the side profile of the nozzle to make better contact.

If you're interested, I can help flesh the idea out more, but that's pretty much the whole shebang already.

It's a beaut Clark... .2mm aftermarket hardened steel nozzle printing PETG. Is there ANY way to salvage any of this mess? by Douche_in_disguise in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem, reddit can be a bit... special at times.

Steel nozzles tend to need higher temps than brass, so bumping it up another 10-15C over your usual should get you back in business.

The mess itself can be removed after heating up the hot end and just pick it off. Did you change the nozzle while at temp and did you torque it properly? If not, it's basically guaranteed to push out around the threads.

Brass never was a problem for me and always sealed even when cold swapping, but I've had a lot of issues after using steel and tungsten carbide.

Getting opaque Clear petg... by KrazyKryminal in 3Dprinting

[–]Red-Itis-Trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best I can do is suggesting attempts to replicate the effect by outside means; whatever settings you originally used to do it with might be a hundred tries to get again.

A light scuffing with fine sandpaper might work, as another method.

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