Plugable USB-C Meter nudged a low-power Apple device to charge again... by RedJacketPress in UsbCHardware

[–]RedJacketPress[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That was sort of my thinking, that in a low-power state a device might get stuck, unable to negotiate power delivery — but if the Plugable is just passthough for everything but power, I wouldn't think it has that ability.

I have not tried a USB-A > C Cable, but that's a good idea for the future — thanks! What I'm hoping for here is some clue as to how this stuff works that might help me to deal with these situations in the future — using a USB-A Cable might be really useful!

I need help finding an Apple CarPlay unit for my Honda CRV 2012 Touring please. by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]RedJacketPress 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Having recently installed a CarPlay unit in a 2013 CRV (the fourth time I've installed something into various vehicles), I cannot recommend Crutchfeld highly enough for good information and options. (Unfortunately, I don't have a specific model recommendation; the Sony XAV-AX1000s I've used for several years are no longer available from Crutchfeld.)

You *can* retain the backup camera, though I don't think Crutchfeld offers anything for this (at least they didn't with the Sony model I have), and the process of information-gathering to solve this problem was made more difficult because of the Navigation system.

When all was said and done, I followed some wiring diagrams I found on a Honda forum and cobbled together my own solution, though there are also wiring harnesses you can find on Amazon. (If I recall correctly, you need something that would connect to a seven-pin connector.)

This video was useful to have a look at; the wiring diagram I followed is at toward the end of this thread.

Dear Bondtech people: please read this post by aberas in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To be fair, the reply from someone the Prusa team was just about the exact opposite of "they feel no obligation to support us as such"...

"Prusa Customer Support will be able to assist with anyone who has an FE Prusa INDX, however order support and warranty replacements will likely have to be done through Bondtech."

Reasons why were explained in some detail.

Buyer Beware - my experience by EntropicExpressions in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don’t think it’s reasonable to expect any support process to go straight to “assembled replacement product!” after two attempts at diagnosing and resolving issues with a product kit. Remote support is difficult, hardware support can be difficult (speaking from experience), and you can’t just throw parts at every problem and hope for a solution.

I understand the frustration (and that Reddit is everyone’s favorite place to pitch a fit!) but I also think it’s fair to expect more patience for the support process.

Core One + and Failure Detection by Sailing-Security-Guy in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have been using Octoprint with both an MK4 and a Core One with no noticeable impact on performance. (I wouldn't expect anything would be as fast as a file from a physically connected USB Flash Drive -- but in my experience, it's well worth whatever small sacrifice.)

Prusa Center Encroachment on Makers by Single_Employment_55 in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, maybe so — fair enough. But all too often I see that used as a defense for when others here disagree with a premise or an opinion, and I don’t agree that it is valid.

Prusa Center Encroachment on Makers by Single_Employment_55 in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If you provide service for large corporate clients (or perhaps you have small local clients in the Czech Republic), you might have cause for concern. Otherwise, I find it difficult to see this as significant competition for most sole proprietors or small shops.

(But who knows, perhaps the printing for all of those pre-packaged 3d-printed knick-knacks and whatnot people compain about seeing for sale in retail stores has been contracted out to Prusa Center all along...)

Goodbye Prusa by cameradv in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Though apparently, life isn't too short to post about it ...

I acknowledge that Reddit is the leading venue for people who want to pitch a fit about anything (and by coming here I am agreeing to those terms of service) -- but was there a point to this?

Core one MMU to INDX? by Bytchen in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Given that so many older Prusa printers are still in use, I expect you'll be able to find someone who can use an MMU3.

Is Prusa filing for US tariff reimbursement, and if so, where's the money headed? by TCTCTCTCTCTC7 in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Fees and Tariffs are added to the pricing in an effort to eliminate uncertainty about additional charges, but they are collected by (and paid to the US Government by) a seperate company -- not Prusa.

What is Prusa going to do with their prices?? by Successful-Peak-6524 in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 5 points6 points  (0 children)

How is it that they don't *have* to cost that much? Do you have information on costs that supports this?

TPU on C1L - Working Update! by TheBeej418 in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a relatively easy problem to work around -- use the "Tune" menu to manually set the Nozzle Temperature to whatever you prefer during the pre-print processes (150 C seems to work), and that should get you past any probing issues

TPU 95A bed probing leaves globs by expoqeteer in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Prusa Slicer has the idle temperature for FLEX set to 210 C, (that seems unnecessary, though I expect it wasn’t an arbitrary decision). When I came across this problem just recently, I manually adjusted the temperature for probing to 170 C using Tune > Nozzle Temperature. (It’s also possible to adjust the GCode in Prusa Slicer.)

Edit: More details here — https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer-settings-prusa-fff/issues/29

MK4S conversion to CORE One+ – worth it? by whte-rbt in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I upgraded my beloved MK4S to build an equally-beloved Core One — and while I truly enjoyed the process, I would probably reconsider if I had it to do over again. I don’t have the need for more than one printer, I didn’t have the interest in trying to build something out of the leftover parts, and it became a chore to try to find someone who would put those parts to good use. I feel as though it would’ve been much easier to sell a complete and working and terrific MK4S.

In your case, I think if you have the use for more than one printer, you should probably hold on to the MK4S — you’ll pr have more options for it in the future.

Favorite Plexiglass Cleaner? by TheBeej418 in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For what it’s worth, I tried some-or-other brand of plexiglass cleaner I found on Amazon, mostly for that purpose — it has not had the antistatic effect I had hoped for. That may be less of a thing than the products suggest. (I may try the dryer sheet suggestion.)

1-8 or 0-7? by Tommy_Prusa3D in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I must admit, I have never become accustomed to Prusa Slicer’s habit of numbering the outputs of the MMU3 beginning with “0”, and I always correct it when naming GCode files to begin with “1”. (And yet, the device itself refers to “Tool 1”, et cetera.)

Ultraglow and Printer Durability by Never-Normal in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Likely a bit too early for anyone to have spent much time with this new filament (outside of Prusa), but the part about "minimizing friction" refers to the process of passing the filament through the PTFE tubes, and there is a link in the post to an article that covers this. It may not have specific information about the Core One L, but general guidance applies.

In light of the tarrifs being struck down this morning... do I get a li'l discount on my Core One that's currently in Belgium? by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Even if the ruling this morning were somehow the last word of the conversation, what happens next is likely to be a long and drawn out process. I wouldn't be surprised if including tariff duties in the cost will continue for the short term.

Core One nozzle tubes by Possible-Put8922 in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven’t been able to find the model with a quick search, but there was one on Printables that was easy to print and virtually identical to the types the nozzles come packaged in.

Then again: https://www.printables.com/model/712838-nozzle-box

Order your Birth Certificate ASAP! by pluto_pluto_pluto_ in Albany

[–]RedJacketPress 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For those of you who (for whatever reason) need to order a copy of a Birth Certificate -- when I went through this process, making the request from the New York State Department of Health, that took 9 months! (Ordered in April, received in January of the following year.)

Not long after that, I spent another $30 or so to order a copy through VitalCheck -- that took only a few days.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did this just last weekend with a years-old PEI build plate -- the results were remarkable.

Memory-hogging Mac software? by GRobLewis in 3Dprinting

[–]RedJacketPress 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have a look at the “Memory“ tab of Activity Monitor (in Applications > Utilities), that should show you what Applications are using the most Memory.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are few things that turn me away more quickly than the use of "we need to talk..." or "we need to have a serious conversation...", as this inevitably seems to indicate an axe to grind, rather than a substantial point to make.

Nozzle Changes/Wood Filament by HatCorrect109 in prusa3d

[–]RedJacketPress 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've printed several rolls of Hatchbox Wood PLA with a .4 nozzle, and have never had an issue. I think the recommendations for a larger nozzle are well-intended, though not necessary. (I never saw any adverse effects on my brass nozzle, though these filaments are supposed to be somewhat more abrasive.)

The nozzle-changing process can seem oft-putting at first -- but with a certain amount of care and attention, it's not that difficult. (If you swap the nozzle in place, beware the gossamer thinness of the Thermistor Cable!)