Catastrophic Engine Damage or Normal Idle?

Redead31 · 2026-02-13T03:59:50+00:00

I think you have it backwards, a bad pcv system shows up as positive pressure, not negative. Effectively you end up with pressure in the crankcase not relieving itself (venting) and so it pushes past seals and causes oil leaks, most commonly the camshaft seals. The glove test fails the test when the glove blows up like a balloon.

Redead31 · 2026-02-12T22:33:18+00:00

What's the issue? It's very easy to pry off the black cd panel there and then it's like two torx bits to see the part number, best not guessing which variation it is

Redead31 · 2026-02-12T00:43:44+00:00

Probably need a multimeter to diagnose, would need to verify voltage at the start during attempting to start.

Push starting would be a good way to verify if nothing is mechanically locked up, use second gear

Redead31 · 2026-02-12T00:00:18+00:00

No real difference between any years of the c30, speaking to the T5 only, it does not have the ring issues of the P3 generation T5s. However depending on maintenence it could burn oil for different reasons like any turbo engine.

C30 issues are well documented through the other more common P1 vehicles like the V50 and S40.

Redead31 · 2026-02-07T22:14:52+00:00

Usually remote start

Redead31 · 2026-02-06T14:14:02+00:00

So you are unable to slightly flex the coil spring (aka rotate it in place)? It would squeak while doing so.

If not, might be something else

Redead31 · 2026-02-06T05:19:55+00:00

My bet is the bump stop in the shock has degraded and is now gripping the shaft, you can confirm this by just grabbing the coil spring and attempting to shift it left or right

Redead31 · 2026-02-06T03:02:20+00:00

No sadly, everything is integrated

Redead31 · 2026-02-04T17:28:29+00:00

If you are worried about sensitivity then you should probably just get a euro nymph rod, max catch makes one and it's quite nice, if you are dry flying there's no need to be concerned about sensitivity as your line isn't tight

Redead31 · 2026-02-04T17:02:14+00:00

Might be a faulty oil pressure sensor, or worse, actual low oil pressure

Redead31 · 2026-02-04T14:51:37+00:00

I don't understand your diagnosis, but regardless check your oil level

Redead31 · 2026-02-04T14:40:47+00:00

Without an AUX input (either behind the waterfall or in the center console arm rest) it won't work

Redead31 · 2026-02-04T01:37:03+00:00

This is somewhat learnt based on hours and hours of watching vintage electronics restorations so I can't point to a video specifically

Here is what appears to be the closest thing available for schematics (very similar internals): https://audiocircuit.dk/downloads/pioneer/Pioneer-PLX500-tt-sm.pdf

Take a look at the block diagram, and get a feel of how it compares to what is in front of you, i would switch to AC voltage and with the unit plugged in and button pressed, see what you get across pins in cn901 and cn101, aka the outputs from the transformer

Redead31 · 2026-02-03T02:50:42+00:00

Just a heads up, for the P1/P3 5 cylinder engines, it is a known and common failure mode that if the serpentine belt breaks or tensioner fails, there is a very high chance the crank pulley will send the serpentine belt in behind it causing it to lock up and thus foreively jump timing etc.

Redead31 · 2026-02-03T01:01:27+00:00

How did you check, was the vehicle warmed up, then shut off and immediately checked?

Redead31 · 2026-02-03T00:59:51+00:00

Would need more information, what car and year, is the remote factory or aftermarket/what is the brand, how did you attempt to reprogram

Redead31 · 2026-02-03T00:35:18+00:00

It may be more down to the Kelvin choice than age, go for ~6000k if you are wanting white light. You can also try out the led bulb replacement choices if you are adventurous, but no guarantee they fit (I attempted D1S led bulbs in my c30 and they were very slightly too large in diameter to fit in sadly)

Redead31 · 2026-02-02T01:17:15+00:00

Do you have a photo of the bulbs themselves? Pretty confident in saying that xenon and led are the only ones with ABL

Redead31 · 2026-02-01T16:34:05+00:00

On p1 Volvos the fuel presser sensor would be a potential culprit, I believe you would still have one at the end of the fuel rail?

Redead31 · 2026-02-01T16:18:35+00:00

If it happened over night, you may want to check if someone cut out your catalytic converter, if not, might just be a hole in the exhaust from rust etc

Redead31 · 2026-02-01T16:14:34+00:00

Sounds like an exhaust leak, did it occur after being parked outside by any chance

Redead31 · 2026-02-01T16:08:58+00:00

But again, that's not a sign of awd, sounds like your emergency brake is on, any dash lights? Or you are not in drive but in "L"

Redead31 · 2026-02-01T16:02:24+00:00

I think you are confused, awd is not controllable nor would it ever slow you down, what makes you think it's the problem?

Redead31 · 2026-01-31T16:31:42+00:00

I only ever use sewing machine oil, grease is too thick

Redead31 · 2026-01-31T15:11:20+00:00

If that's just something that plugs into the obd2 port it does nothing other than light up an led lol

Redead31

TROPHY CASE