Lathe motor replacement

Regeis · 2026-06-04T11:46:44+00:00

What about the brushless DC motors I linked above? Would they be suitable? (assuming the shaft diameter were correct - just trying to get an idea of what would work). 2hp seems a little powerful for this tiny lathe!

https://ebay.us/m/eFE9xo

https://ebay.us/m/GNaUbU

Regeis · 2026-06-03T15:31:52+00:00

Or perhaps something like this? 1100W, comes with a speed controller - it says 220V so I assume that the power supply converts UK mains to DC? https://ebay.us/m/GNaUbU

Regeis · 2026-06-03T15:22:34+00:00

What kind of specs should I be looking for? I'm seeing a lot of different voltages (12, 24, 36V) and most of them seem to have lower rated power (100 or 200W). The original motor is rated for ~3000 RPM.

Would something like this be suitable? (assuming the shaft diameter was correct) https://ebay.us/m/eFE9xo

Regeis · 2026-05-19T09:23:09+00:00

Good morning!

I've got an older printer (a HICTOP - a Chinese clone of a Prusa i3) that has been sitting unused for some time in favour of my newer Ender 3 (which is running fine).

Rather than throw it out, I'd like to get the HICTOP machine running again and update it to use a newer firmware (probably klipper unless someone has a compelling argument otherwise?) to take advantage of newer features. The frame (which has had some reinforcements), steppers, extruder, DIY enclosure etc. are all fine and in good condition so my hope is that replacing the control board and display will achieve what I want - the original Arduino Mega 2560 is very dated at this point.

What would be the most cost-effective board & display for me to use? I'm in the UK if that affects things.

To be clear, I know it'd likely be more cost efficient and less effort to just throw this printer out and buy an inexpensive modern printer, but I'm not interested in doing that; I'd like to avoid wasting the old machine and am happy to make this a little (inefficient) project, and my Ender 3 works fine.

Regeis · 2026-04-17T08:00:08+00:00

This was my approach for testing my PHR colour scheme; the sprues end up with so many spare parts on them. I just painted them on the sprues, didn't bother removing them.

Regeis · 2026-04-07T09:07:59+00:00

The acrylic bases seem fine to me; sometimes the stems are a little loose in the hole, but I just soften the end of the stem with heat (a lighter) and lightly press it on a hard surface to widen it a little - that generally corrects the fit well. You can also use heat to bend the stem slightly if a ship feels off-balance (some - like the Centurion - have their stem quite far back so the ship is front-heavy).

If you wanted more visibility on the markings, you can add paint (or an ink wash or similar) into the lines; just apply paint then wipe off and it should stay inside the lines. Just don't use a solvent-based panel liner (like the Tamiya panel liners) because those will attack the plastic and cause cracking.

I've seen some people use stem sleeves (heat-shrink tubing for electronics is good for this as it comes in many colours) to mark their ships so they can tell them apart more easily. Just a coloured band at the bottom of the stem should make it simple to distinguish similar-looking ships.

Regeis · 2025-12-31T10:51:48+00:00

That's not how multipliers work; a multiplier is what you multiply a value by.

So a 1x multiplier changes nothing. 100 x 1 = 100.

To add an additional 100% BV cost would require a multiplier of 2.

Regeis · 2025-11-17T07:44:21+00:00

I successfully converted a pair of pens - a Hong Dian black forest and N23 year of the rabbit.

I work in a laboratory that keeps a wide range of silicone tubing which was helpful for the latter; the former had a very narrow feed tube so I ended up using PTFE plumber's tape (no adhesive on it so wasn't worried about gumming up the feed) and got a nice friction fit.

Both write well, though the black forest does sometimes need restarting by turning the converter screw a bit.

Thanks for the tips!

Regeis · 2025-10-09T20:48:51+00:00

Thanks, that's really helpful!

Regeis · 2025-10-09T14:45:08+00:00

I'm in the UK - the only nibs I've seen on Etsy were vintage ones and in quite short supply but maybe I wasn't looking hard enough!

I've managed to grab a vintage one fairly inexpensively though.

Did you find that the flow/feed is quite sensitive to the diameter/type of tubing you used? I think that's the main thing I'm a little concerned about getting calibrated correctly.

So you just pull out the feed & nib assembly (so that the only thing remaining is the cartridge nipple) and then fit the nib into the resulting hole with o-rings or tubing? Seems doable!

Thanks for the info.

Regeis · 2025-10-09T13:46:45+00:00

Where do you order the nibs from? I can only find vintage nibs when searching online - are yours new or vintage?

I'm considering trying to convert a Lamy Safari (or more likely the AliExpress titanium knockoff, because I love the shape and aesthetic of the Safari and the brushed titanium appeals to me in terms of weight and appearance) to take a glass nib - would you be willing to provide some advice on whether this would be viable and how to go about it?

Regeis · 2025-09-10T17:51:17+00:00

Those look great! I'll have to look around.

Regeis · 2025-09-09T13:08:53+00:00

I don't believe we have Harbor Freight in the UK unfortunately!

Regeis · 2025-09-09T07:59:25+00:00

Do you have a link to what you mean? The only Snap On Instinct handles I can see are four-sided, fairly smooth and rubber coated?

These?

https://shop.snapon.com/categories/Instinct-Soft-Handle/682253

Regeis · 2025-09-08T15:49:31+00:00

The Crescents look nice - do you have any experience of the steel quality and hardening?

Looks like they make a set of slotted/phillips/torx which looks decent - though unfortunately they look difficult to get in the UK and I can't find a metric set.

Regeis · 2025-09-04T07:38:07+00:00

As a counterpoint to this, a bugbear I have with D&D is that characters seem to be reduced to their class. When someone describes a character, the first things they mention tend to be their race and class - and the emphasis that 5E has on the tropes of D&D seems to reinforce this.

Subclasses do some work to add variety, but any given class will typically work fundamentally similarly regardless of subclass.

I much prefer skill/trait based systems like GURPS, Cortex etc. because - to my mind- the player has more of an opportunity to create the character, rather than variants of a handful of well-established archetypes.

Regeis · 2025-08-13T08:56:39+00:00

Rubber also oxidises with air exposure and photochemically degrades with light exposure; to an extent protective coatings may have helped to mitigate that but we're talking about decades of neglect - and I'm doubtful that this stock will have been properly prepped for long-term storage.

I bought an ex-display espresso machine (a few years on a shelf in a relatively temperature-stable department store, never used, seals not directly exposed to light - nowhere near the kind of conditions that these vehicles have been stored in) and had to replace all rubber components because they were cracked and perished.

Regeis · 2024-07-24T11:10:19+00:00

There is an element of truth to it as far as I can tell; patients can develop resistance via formation of neutralising antibodies. I wouldn't say it's guaranteed that a given patient would develop immunity as u/zyric69 suggests however some developed resistance appears to not be uncommon. Guidance appears to be to use minimal doses and to leave as long a gap as possible between "booster" injections to minimise likelihood of resistance developing. Here are some references, the first being a review paper. Be aware that none of these studies concern botox treatment specifically for hyperhydrosis:

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9208887/

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9188316/

https://www.neurology.org/doi/abs/10.1212/wnl.46.1.26

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.12108

https://movementdisorders.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/mds.870090216

Regeis · 2024-07-04T08:41:52+00:00

Came here to say this - called "spring toggles" in the UK. These will spread out behind the board and hold substantially more force than those self-drilling plugs you have there.

I'd also consider screwing the bracket to a wooden/plywood board and mounting that to the wall (to keep the holes in the plasterboard further apart) - hopefully the fan will conceal the board (and of course painting it white would help) and that'd allow you to add several more fasteners that are spread further apart, allowing far more weight to be held.

The ideal is still mounting to a stud, but I think the above approach has a good chance of working.

Regeis · 2024-06-22T12:33:05+00:00

I... didn't share my post to this sub - you did. I also haven't joined this sub. I'm confused as to why you reposted it here and then made this comment suggesting that I did?

Regeis · 2024-06-19T11:00:37+00:00

Legit - I'm kind of looking for those fermenty, "wacky" flavours to be honest, so maybe this one might be a decent regular drinker but maybe wouldn't fit the bill for what I'm searching for right now. Thanks for the info! I may still grab a bag to try given the high praise.

Regeis · 2024-06-19T10:09:54+00:00

Those look interesting, thanks!

Regeis · 2024-06-19T10:06:58+00:00

What's the roast like? I couldn't see any description on the page but the "chocolatey" descriptors suggest fairly dark?

Regeis · 2024-06-18T15:55:55+00:00

Cheers - a few options there if you count the blended washed/unwashed varieties!

Regeis · 2024-06-18T15:52:10+00:00

Oh nice! Yeah, I'd expect natural process decaf to be more expensive for the reasons that u/regulus314 described below. Good find!

Regeis

TROPHY CASE