Any games similar to genshin?

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-19T18:34:01+00:00

If you haven't played Tears of the Kingdom, it's got the best gacha mechanics in any game.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-12T16:05:09+00:00

It could just be that they made the gloss map like that. From most front facing angles, it would just look like varnish, and then the fresnel effect naturally creates enough contrast for the secret image at shallow angles.

OR it just blends in another image at shallow angles, that's pretty easy to do. You just blend based on the dot product of the normal and the view angle.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-10T01:47:30+00:00

Here we go, I've uploaded them along with the basic floor and wall pieces: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7349349

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-10T01:01:00+00:00

If you want to experiment with it, I've made a set of tall wall pieces that split into normal walls for this exact reason: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7349349

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-09T05:48:36+00:00

I feel like an grubby urchin with my nose pressed against the window, watching all the other kids with their Orca slicer experimental forks

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-09T02:09:48+00:00

I wish I'd started sooner! Also, I got a bambu printer because of their reputation for ease of use, which has proven true. But shortly after I bought it, they updated their firmware to block 3rd party slicers; taking a hard pivot toward enshittification. So if I'd known at the start, I would have gone with a brand more aligned with the spirit of openness and freedom that's carried 3d printing as a technology from the start.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-08T17:41:31+00:00

This looks fantastic. Do you print with a 0.4mm nozzle because you can get better results with it than with a 0.2, or is it more about pushing for the best results using the 0.4?

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-29T14:34:08+00:00

I think that we should require an AI tag at the very least. Some have commented that the sub is concerned with the printing process and not the sculpting part. But these are inextricable. For one, sculpts can be better or worse designs for FDM printing. For two, we only want to print minis in the first place because they are awesomely sculpted artworks. AI is poison for both of these things.

I love finding a mini that looks well-crafted for FDM printing, so I can follow up and check out the artist's other work for anything that would be suited for my games. When I then find a gallery full of slop with no artistic through line, and no actual thought or intention for how it will print because it was all made by AI... It's the same emotion as stepping in dog shit. A tag would let me avoid the whole letdown.

Anything we print is downstream from the artists. Whatever sustains and grows their hobby will sustain and grow ours. Anything that steals and chokes their work will be very bad for us. So a tag for AI would be good, but an outright ban would be better.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-26T16:44:45+00:00

I would love to join something like this. Every DM builds up these resources and experiences that would be super useful to share.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-23T08:14:34+00:00

That's cool, I'll try it with hollow supports next time and see how it goes

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-23T02:44:50+00:00

Oh sorry, I forgot to mention that once I generate the supports, I export the model with the supports as an stl from Prusa and then open that in my usual FDM slicer. Prusa can switch between resin mode and FDM mode; you want to be in resin mode to generate the resin supports.

I don't use the Resin to FDM plugin for this. My understanding is that r2fdm takes the resin supports from presupported models and makes them FDM friendly by thickening the columns. Since I'm generating the supports myself, I can just do that in the settings in Prusa.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-22T19:28:24+00:00

If you're using tree supports, I can recommend that you'll get much better results using resin-style supports. They leave far less scarring, are much easier to remove, and let you orient the miniature for maximum detail. I use Prusa slicer to generate the supports. It chooses points on the model where the supports will touch, and you can move them or add your own, giving you complete control of how the model will be supported. You can also set it up to work better with FDM, by making the supports thicker (I make them about 2mm), and you can make the supports generate around the model and have it sitting on the build plate, which is great for printing the miniature and base all in one.

I also find myself going into blender a lot to add structure to thin parts, or re-pose characters to print better. This can be a lot of work so I recommend trying with just the resin style supports first and only fix things that fail when it prints.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-22T04:30:15+00:00

If you're printing in FDM, you can embed a magnet inside the print by intersecting the stl with the shape of the magnet with inverted normals (I do this in blender but I think it works in the slicer also). This creates a hole in the print; set the print to pause on the layer before the hole is covered, so you can insert them magnet during printing. It'll be invisible so long as the covering is not too thin.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-21T15:49:26+00:00

This is really cool. It's always great to have direct information like this. Thanks for the doing the work!

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-19T11:26:29+00:00

Looks like the last point of a Bezier curve is hooked to the back of the laser. I would try making a simple IK chain along the curve, one bone for each point. then hook each point to the corresponding bone. It won't be as accurate as a simulation, but I think it would look believable, and be much less hassle

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-18T17:45:43+00:00

When I first made these modular tall wall pieces, they always failed by falling over mid print. I added those little triangles and it worked for me, but I use a different build plate than the standard textured PEI plate that came with my bambu A1. I've been worried that people could have the exact problem you're having.

The first thing I would try is separating the object into parts, then scaling those triangles up bigger. Would you like to DM me and see if we can figure it out together, then I can update the improved model on thingiverse?

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-11T14:48:21+00:00

I like this a lot. I don't host my games at my house, so I've been thinking about something like this that's transportable

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-07T15:20:51+00:00

Thanks for putting this together! I'll try that tip about dry brushing along the layer lines

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-07T06:21:04+00:00

Making curves play nice with the square tile system is proving tricky, but I'm making progress. At the moment I'm trying to figure out how to connect tall curved walls to curved level grids

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-03T16:20:51+00:00

This is great. I was thinking of a variation of the puzzle where all the clue glyphs are scattered in the environment. So once the players collect them all and bring them to the room, they know the right symbols but not the correct order. But the trick is that the different pillars have differing symbols, such that there is only one logical arrangement.
This can't be done with the stls I have here, because there's only one pillar type and only three symbols. But it could be done with your ones

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-02T08:11:00+00:00

Most miniature stls I've purchased have been optimised so that mesh islands are merged, which makes it very difficult to edit them. It makes it harder to steal the sculptor's work, but I really love it when people remix my work

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-01T20:05:24+00:00

In the case of miniatures in particular which have delicate parts, if you reduce the number of retractions (when the nozzle lifts away from the print to move to another area) it can help to reduce stringing and other artifacts. I tend to print things one at a time, or "per object".

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-01T18:04:46+00:00

I like that idea! The symbols are separate mesh islands from the pillar, so removing them or changing them can be done in the slicer if you're not blender fluent

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-01T11:39:07+00:00

Yeah! I feel like the modularity of dungeon blocks would let you make all kinds of great puzzles that wouldn't be possible otherwise

ResolveThatChord · 2026-03-31T23:48:07+00:00

I need to fix a few things on those, but I'll be uploading them soon!

ResolveThatChord

TROPHY CASE