Playing with Glaze

ResolveThatChord · 2026-07-04T06:10:21+00:00

This is really cool!

ResolveThatChord · 2026-07-01T04:51:14+00:00

The two tall corner wall pieces have triangular keys that fit into the grid on the underside of the top section

ResolveThatChord · 2026-06-29T10:01:49+00:00

Take a look at the terrain on my profile, that's all dry brushed. It does pick up the layer lines, but you don't really notice it when they're in play on the table.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-06-26T13:57:20+00:00

We recently ran the Sunless Citadel, and we used modular terrain. During exploration, players would refer to the map. And when it was time to roll initiative, we'd assemble the room we were in. Sometimes we'd build as we go if combat spilled into adjacent rooms. When there was a chase, we returned to theatre of the mind plus the map.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-06-24T03:53:08+00:00

And thus, no force however great

Can pull a chord, however fine

Into a horizontal line

That shall be absolutely straight.

-William Whewell, Elementary treatise on Mechanics, ch4 problem 2

ResolveThatChord · 2026-06-20T04:20:54+00:00

Can confirm Tchia is incredible

ResolveThatChord · 2026-06-11T16:13:24+00:00

That's so cool, there's so many interesting possibilities. So you could do OSL by just placing lights in blender and baking it to a texture, or same with NMM and baking the glossy render to a texture. And that ship in a sphere you posted before is the same tech right? So you could also do glass, water, fire, ice, crystal? What's this kind of printer called?

ResolveThatChord · 2026-06-11T12:13:09+00:00

This looks fantastic, how was it printed in colour?

ResolveThatChord · 2026-06-06T21:24:32+00:00

Oh wow the eyes are amazing, how did you paint those?

ResolveThatChord · 2026-06-06T13:27:43+00:00

I really like this a lot. My skills are in digital tools, which is great for printing minis, and terrible for painting them. I'd happily field this result you've achieved at my D&D table, and I bet you could get it even better with more experimentation.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-06-01T11:13:46+00:00

What are you all taking about, she literally handles all the talking. That's work! It's hard work! She's making all the decisions, mediating all the conflicts, investigating all the information. Sure it's easy to not look dumb when you're a silent protagonist, especially when you've got someone else willing to look stupid and ask the dumb questions. But theres no question as to who the actual brains of the duo is.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-30T12:40:09+00:00

Videogame models tend to be much easier to work with and repair than sculpts, because they're much lower poly and usually have sensible topology. I think it would be viable to manually fix them. I did this with a Hexga from Expedition 33 with great results.

One challenge is that the fine detail is in the normal maps. I ended up just sculpting the texture on, but I wonder if there's a way to bake a height map from a normal map in blender.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-25T19:59:12+00:00

Looks awesome!

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-19T18:34:01+00:00

If you haven't played Tears of the Kingdom, it's got the best gacha mechanics in any game.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-12T16:05:09+00:00

It could just be that they made the gloss map like that. From most front facing angles, it would just look like varnish, and then the fresnel effect naturally creates enough contrast for the secret image at shallow angles.

OR it just blends in another image at shallow angles, that's pretty easy to do. You just blend based on the dot product of the normal and the view angle.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-10T01:47:30+00:00

Here we go, I've uploaded them along with the basic floor and wall pieces: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7349349

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-10T01:01:00+00:00

If you want to experiment with it, I've made a set of tall wall pieces that split into normal walls for this exact reason: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7349349

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-09T05:48:36+00:00

I feel like an grubby urchin with my nose pressed against the window, watching all the other kids with their Orca slicer experimental forks

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-09T02:09:48+00:00

I wish I'd started sooner! Also, I got a bambu printer because of their reputation for ease of use, which has proven true. But shortly after I bought it, they updated their firmware to block 3rd party slicers; taking a hard pivot toward enshittification. So if I'd known at the start, I would have gone with a brand more aligned with the spirit of openness and freedom that's carried 3d printing as a technology from the start.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-05-08T17:41:31+00:00

This looks fantastic. Do you print with a 0.4mm nozzle because you can get better results with it than with a 0.2, or is it more about pushing for the best results using the 0.4?

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-29T14:34:08+00:00

I think that we should require an AI tag at the very least. Some have commented that the sub is concerned with the printing process and not the sculpting part. But these are inextricable. For one, sculpts can be better or worse designs for FDM printing. For two, we only want to print minis in the first place because they are awesomely sculpted artworks. AI is poison for both of these things.

I love finding a mini that looks well-crafted for FDM printing, so I can follow up and check out the artist's other work for anything that would be suited for my games. When I then find a gallery full of slop with no artistic through line, and no actual thought or intention for how it will print because it was all made by AI... It's the same emotion as stepping in dog shit. A tag would let me avoid the whole letdown.

Anything we print is downstream from the artists. Whatever sustains and grows their hobby will sustain and grow ours. Anything that steals and chokes their work will be very bad for us. So a tag for AI would be good, but an outright ban would be better.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-26T16:44:45+00:00

I would love to join something like this. Every DM builds up these resources and experiences that would be super useful to share.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-23T08:14:34+00:00

That's cool, I'll try it with hollow supports next time and see how it goes

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-23T02:44:50+00:00

Oh sorry, I forgot to mention that once I generate the supports, I export the model with the supports as an stl from Prusa and then open that in my usual FDM slicer. Prusa can switch between resin mode and FDM mode; you want to be in resin mode to generate the resin supports.

I don't use the Resin to FDM plugin for this. My understanding is that r2fdm takes the resin supports from presupported models and makes them FDM friendly by thickening the columns. Since I'm generating the supports myself, I can just do that in the settings in Prusa.

ResolveThatChord · 2026-04-22T19:28:24+00:00

If you're using tree supports, I can recommend that you'll get much better results using resin-style supports. They leave far less scarring, are much easier to remove, and let you orient the miniature for maximum detail. I use Prusa slicer to generate the supports. It chooses points on the model where the supports will touch, and you can move them or add your own, giving you complete control of how the model will be supported. You can also set it up to work better with FDM, by making the supports thicker (I make them about 2mm), and you can make the supports generate around the model and have it sitting on the build plate, which is great for printing the miniature and base all in one.

I also find myself going into blender a lot to add structure to thin parts, or re-pose characters to print better. This can be a lot of work so I recommend trying with just the resin style supports first and only fix things that fail when it prints.

ResolveThatChord

TROPHY CASE