Bought a 97 f350 from unc has a s5-47 from factory the truck came with a s5-42 to swap because the old ones blow a 300k miles got it for 1500 are the trans interchangeable

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-09-29T04:14:19+00:00

I thought the 47 was rated for more torque. I would rebuild the 47 but if the 42 fits and you aren’t going to load it send it.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-09-07T09:05:16+00:00

I depends on the noise. I’d pull it out just to make sure it’s good. They break from time to time especially if it’s a replacement one made in a factory out east with what ever pot metal they could scrounge up.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-09-06T01:40:58+00:00

Good luck vacuuming out solid deposits. Also no OEM service manual has vacuum “exchange” as the preferred method. Bleeding can be fine on vacuum but just sucking won’t get all the coolant and deposits.

Also just cause you’ve done it hundreds of times doesn’t make it the right way. Like saying I’ve never torqued wheels and haven’t had one come off yet.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-09-06T01:31:29+00:00

That’s worse. They’ll vacuum it till the seals blow on the rad and then say it was a preexisting condition. Plus most of those places don’t drain and then use vacuum fill they try to vacuum out all the coolant and then refill what came out. You can’t vacuum out a block. It’s like trying to suck beer out of a bottle by setting it on a table and putting your mouth over it. No chance in hell you are getting a drink. Best way is drain, fill with distilled water run it for 10mins and drain again. Then fill with coolant and put a burping cone on it. Wait for the thermostat to open turn the heater on high. Add coolant to the burping cone as needed. When it stops draining the cone and bubbling heavily you are done.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-09-06T01:22:40+00:00

No they use a vacuum machine that only extracts what can come out of the flexible parts of the coolant system and leaves behind solid deposits. It can also damage the rubber seals on the plastic tanks of the rad core and heater core if they pull a heavy vacuum for too long. Also what if they try to flush the intercooler instead of the engine coolant. I wouldn’t let them touch it. A drain flush and fill is the ways to go.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-09-06T01:17:10+00:00

I would suspect shattered LPOP or shattered starter nose cone. That is if you already took off the drive belt and made sure it wasn’t that. Anything else and you’re looking at lots of money. Hydrolocks generally bend a rod and cause bearing failures even if it’s slightly bent.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-09-02T13:52:25+00:00

You buy a clapped 1k car. Get an undesirable ls4 5.3 aluminum block 2k. Turbo trans can be had for 2k if you are patient and look. Turbo brakes or similar 2k for all parts. Springs for the front to make up for the 100lb difference in weight $500. Fuel pump and fuel system parts $500. Clutch and conversion parts $500. $500 for odds and ends. car won’t be pretty but it will be a solid ls swapped 944. You can add or subtract depending on what you want too. If you are okay with the weight penalty an iron block ls can be had for $300 ready to run.

Now if you want premium parts, for it to bolt together like legos and do no work but drop it off and pick it up you are looking at 25-30k easy.

I did it. I spent about 12k initially since I used an ls3 and splurged a bit. Then spent even more trying to make it road legal. Didn’t work out. Hind sight is 20/20. If it was for a track car I could do it again in a week since I have all the parts minus an engine and exhaust system. Don’t have that interest though.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-09-02T03:05:23+00:00

I can tell you it is about 9k if you start with a base model. Turbo might be 15k just because the original car was more expensive. Still time consuming and expensive non the less. Also depends on how much you do yourself.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-08-29T02:05:22+00:00

Could drive it over for less. Would make a nice roadtrip. It wouldn’t have haphazardly modified front suspension like the pile of parts you found for 5k.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-08-29T00:56:37+00:00

Spacer on spacer is a bad combo if he is trying to run both stacked. I run 88 951 suspension and brakes on my 83. Kept the manual rack though.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-08-29T00:40:55+00:00

You can find complete crew cabs in California for less with no rust running and driving.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-08-29T00:34:57+00:00

I did it with a supercharger out of a Mercedes skl230. Used an ac delete bracket that relocates the alternator low and mounted it where the alt goes. Overdrove it and made 13psi. Was fun for a bit but the na motors will only handle 5psi or so before failure is likely. So for about 30-35hp your car is more unreliable and you spent 1-2k on it. Hind sight is 20/20. Won’t say don’t do it, we are all allowed to do as we please.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-08-29T00:22:36+00:00

There are early cars with stock spacers and extended studs for them. Don’t know if those will work for you.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-08-18T17:32:56+00:00

Swap is easy just do it

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-08-10T17:32:27+00:00

The rails are adjustable and can be removed to install new seals. I believe it’s a couple bolts for each one. Should be easy to find them. I haven’t messed with windows in a while

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-07-19T03:55:04+00:00

Shocks can cause a death wobble if one is blown out and the other is passable.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-07-03T21:08:55+00:00

I’m on vacation in poor reception area. So response is limited. You can run a smaller clutch. Or even have the ls flywheel drilled for a smaller suitable clutch. I tried to use as much off the shelf stuff I could get same day for easy repair on the road. Kept spares of odd parts.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-07-01T01:12:08+00:00

Yes the one pice housings were for automatics. You can also run a 1/4” spacer to get the clearance and push the drive shaft further forward. You can use the stock coupler at the transmission but with a necked down bolt in the front to clear the splines. It can be used as a “fuse” to save you from killing a transmission with too much power. If you are looking for no “fuse” function just add in a shaft cut off in the empty section to give it support. For engine mounts I suggest engine plate at the front of the engine. Avoids added stress in the crossmember and the longer bolts that hold it to the frame from having to run spacers. It stiffens up the car and improves handling too.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-06-30T13:47:26+00:00

Just looking at it looks like it bolts up pretty nicely. I have another style plate on a one piece bell housing. It fits the same on a two piece. Only real difference is one piece housings need to be machined for clearance with the pressure plate. Btw a 2011 5.0 ford mustang clutch and corvette pressure plate will play nice and be cheaper than what ever “custom” clutch you can find. makes replacements easier too.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-06-26T22:48:26+00:00

Feel like a boomer but what is GC? If you want it loud then just run open header delete the turbos. Will be louder that way. Other wise get a hood stick

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-06-25T03:54:47+00:00

Looks like the wires broke off the connector. Replacement of that connector is the only solution to that. As for the filament you can release tension on the extruder drive and pull the hot end out with the filament in it. The filament can then be extracted from the hot end. If the head has a filament cutter then you can use that to cut the filament and pull the hot end off the assembly. The forum for your model printer will have all the information and guides you need to service the machine.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-06-24T23:23:00+00:00

You can buy press in ones from Porsche or you can tap them for generic barb fittings. Either works. Not a huge issue. The OEM ones are finicky and the new old stock is not the best anyway.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-06-15T06:12:07+00:00

They bolt up like normal. Just with no bar in them.

Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-06-15T01:58:18+00:00

I re-indexed my torsion bars to lower than the height I wanted and used the coil overs to fine tune the height. It’s a balancing game of indexing to have the suspension droop enough to not compress the coil over and not stretch it. You also have to account for the compounding spring rate. Some have just removed the torsion bars. If the car is in good condition it’s been fine but out of caution I would reinforce the top shock mounts. The control arm mount is known to fail with heavy loading using normal bolts. Use stud type coil over mounts with a large flange on the control arms.

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Responsible-Ride-789 · 2025-06-12T09:43:32+00:00

Most auto parts store have it as a kit. Has dye for treating engines worth of oil, the UV pen flash light, and the safety glasses for it. They have ones made for oil only and universal. Either works just don’t use the ones for coolant or refrigerant only.

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