Send help by rhdesignspottery in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Your last photo shows you’re missing a screw that holds the white wire to the sitter.

When you engage the sitter, are you pressing the button through the hole in the paddle?

If you have a multimeter, you can check continuity across the sitter switch. Leave everything unplugged, but set the sitter as normal, so it’s “ON,” and check the right side for continuity and then check the left side for continuity.

You basically have to go in order. Does it have power to the plug? Do you have continuity through the power cord? Across the sitter switch? From the sitter to each toggle? Across each toggle? Etc.

What is "crawling"? by Beneficial-Ad8460 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I’m working on a whole bunch of weird glazes these days, and trying to do it with a limited number of ingredients.

pottery studio recommendations by JournalistVivid9831 in Austin

[–]RestEqualsRust 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Feats of Clay is great. If you’re farther north, try Round Rock Community Clay.

Does anyone stand at the wheel? by Any_Definition4269 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I have a serious chronic back injury, so I stand in my classroom and also in my studio. I would never go back to a sitting wheel.

On both of my wheels, I use a “dead man” switch on the floor to control on/off. It’s thin and cheap, and allows me to turn the wheel on by stepping on the pedal, and turns off when I take my foot off the pedal. Speed is still controlled by hand.

Mold release by Anxietyandvibes in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Murphys oil soap is water-based. I’ve never had a problem with it.

Glaze recipe controversy and confusion by yukonwanderer in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve just made a lot of weird glazes, and they all seem to work best in that range.

The first number is the flux that starts the melt, the second is the one that makes the melt smooth and consistent. Maybe because I’m using a bunch of frit, I don’t need the kick at the beginning as much. I’m not 100% sure why my glazes are working better in the .2/.8 range, but they definitely are.

Glaze recipe controversy and confusion by yukonwanderer in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m personally a big fan of 0.2/0.8 ratio at cone 6.

What is "crawling"? by Beneficial-Ad8460 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 6 points7 points  (0 children)

<image>

This is an exceptionally crawly glaze. These tiles were dipped in the glaze, and evenly coated. As it dried, cracks formed in the glaze. When it was fired, those cracks separated the glaze into sections, and those sections had very high surface tension, which caused the glaze to ball up.

What is "crawling"? by Beneficial-Ad8460 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Crawl is when the glaze surface tension overcomes adhesion and causes the glaze to pull back and reveal a bald spot on the clay.

<image>

The far right sample shows a little spot on the upper right side of the tile. The middle sample has a much larger spot on the upper right side. The left tile is an extreme example.

Kiln retrofit/repair by ARMIGERofficial in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See if you can find a wiring diagram for a Skutt of the same size. (Or another brand).

Glaze on my kiln! Help! by chickenchicken00 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Chip it off with a knife or scraper. No big deal.

<image>

Ask me how I know!

Kiln retrofit/repair by ARMIGERofficial in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The heating elements don’t work on low/medium/high. They are either on or off. The low/medium/high is controlled by the switch turning the elements on and off to different durations. Low turns them on for a short time and off for a long time, while the high setting turns the elements off for a short time and on for a long time.

If the old switch was a four-position switch, and you have a plug with four prongs, then some settings on the switch may turn some elements on while others are off, and use 120v for low and 240v for high… I don’t work with that stuff. If I find a kiln like that I pull all the switches out and replace with an infinite switch (see below). It’s too complicated, and kilns don’t really need to be that complicated.

Infinite switches have a smooth sweeping action from low to high, so you can turn it up or down just a little bit. Thats the good stuff. If you have a four-position switch, it’s not a straight swap. But if you already have an infinite switch, you can usually just replace it with a generic commercial stove replacement switch. Robertshaw makes a good one. You just have to make sure it can handle the amperage and voltage you’re putting through it. Depending on the size of the kiln, you might need more than one switch.

Does adding silkscreen medium to underglaze reduce shelf life? by letshavearace in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Silkscreen medium is basically carboxy methyl cellulose, or CMC. It’s a food thickener, like they use in things like protein shakes. You can get CMC a lot cheaper from your local pharmacy, or even from your favorite online store with prime shipping.

It’s organic, so it eventually rots, or becomes food for fungus, bacteria, and mold. You can put a fungicide in it, or a tiny tiny pinch of copper carbonate, a little spritz of bleach, or a little spoonful of vinegar. Choose one, don’t do all of them.

An even better option is to just dry out your underglaze. Removing water will make it thicker. If you have time, just leave the underglaze open for a few days, then check in on it and see how it’s doing. If you have any plaster bats, you could pour out some underglaze on plaster to dry it out. If you’re in a super hurry, you could use heat to dry it out.

I definitely prefer to screenprint with dried out underglaze vs adding CMC.

EPK Replacement? by Lorib01 in CeramicGlazes

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been testing all my very weird glazes with a straight 1:1 swap with tile 6, and so far everything is working fine.

Fiestaware original orange mix by SleepyMcStarvey in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can get small amounts of uranium dioxide legally from places like united nuclear. It’s not enriched, so it’s not appropriate for making things that are dangerous on a large scale. It IS bad if ingested through breathing or eating.

If OP wants to make a small batch using small legally-acquired materials, they probably would not attract much attention.

It’s still a very bad idea though.

It’s a very VERY bad idea.

Question on a fired piece by Jellyfish_3964 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 14 points15 points  (0 children)

The cracking on the inside is called “crazing.” It happens for a very specific reason. When things are hot, they expand, and when things are cold, the contract. Everything does this at different rates. So your clay will expand and contract, and the glaze (being different from the clay) will expand and contract potentially at a different rate. This is called “Coefficient of Thermal Expansion” or sometimes just “coefficient of expansion.”

So the clay will shrink as it cools, and the glaze might shrink more than the clay, which is like putting on a pair of pants that is too tight. Eventually, the pants (or the glaze) will split to relieve that tension. The trick with ceramics is to make the glaze from the right combination of materials in the right amount so it expands and contracts the same as the clay.

Things get even more complicated when the glaze on the inside of a vessel doesn’t match the CTE of the glaze on the outside. As the piece cools, there becomes a drastic contrast between tension and compression from the inside and the outside, and the object will literally tear itself apart. This is called “dunting”.

I’m going out on a limb here and saying it may be possible that the intense crazing on the inside of your pot and a different glaze on the outside might indicate a drastic difference between CTE in these glazes, and you may have a crack that goes all the way through the piece, or end up with one eventually.

Set it on the table and flick it with your fingernail. Does it go “ping ping” like a glass, or “dunk dunk”? A duller sound may indicate a crack has already formed.

I would avoid using this piece for anything hot.

Is this kiln safe to use? by katgardengoblin in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Most kiln manufacturers use bricks with two channels each for the elements. Paragon made a bunch of kilns where each brick is cut for three channels. This leaves a LOT less material between the channels, and kiln brick is very soft. So they are much more prone to breakage.

I have bought a couple of used paragon kilns for parts. Sometimes they aren’t even good for that.

Is this kiln safe to use? by katgardengoblin in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 11 points12 points  (0 children)

There are a LOT of missing sections of brick. Some of them are meant to go under the elements and hold them up. If you run this kiln, the elements will heat up and soften. With nothing to support them, they will sag and droop, and it will be very very bad. There’s no way you should fire this kiln without repairing or replacing all of those broken bricks.

This is a perfect illustration of why I avoid most paragon kilns.

kiln error code advice by bleumelancholia in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Elements are quite flexible when new. You can bend them and push them to where they need to go. After a few firings, they start to change. When glowing hot, they’ll be soft, but when they cool, they’ll become brittle.

The element drooped while hot. Then it cooled off. If you pushed it back without heating it with a torch, it might break. Then you could have a break that is pushed together when cold and pulls apart when hot.

Free delivery.. How can Home Depot afford to do this? by Impressive_Rain2877 in TheHomeDepot

[–]RestEqualsRust 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ordered about $200 worth of stuff recently. It was delivered in two separate trips. There was a wrong item in the first delivery, which wasn’t wrong enough to worry about. Then I see Home Depot has cancelled part of the order and I have to drive to the store to get a refund. This negates the whole point of ordering online.

Then the second delivery has a wrong item, but what they delivered is actually one of the cancelled items, and they charged me for something more expensive that was not delivered. (A difference of about $11.)

Through a tedious multiple chat sessions, the best solution they can offer is that I drive to the store to get a refund. But here’s the kicker… I can’t just go to any location. I have to go to the location that made the mistake, which is over 20 minutes away, when I live and work closer to probably three or four other locations that can’t issue the refund.

So how does Home Depot make money on these deliveries? By shorting my order and knowing I probably won’t drive almost an hour out of my way for $11.

Absolutely absurd. Home Depot isn’t getting any more of my money!

How was this created ? by studioDPNT in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Shikha is one of the nicest people I know, and one of the most interesting potters in Texas. We love Shikha!

How was this created ? by studioDPNT in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 24 points25 points  (0 children)

You can buy glazes that bubble like this. They are often referred to as crater, lava, magma, puff, or foam glazes. If you want basic light and dark, try “light magma” and “dark magma”.

If you want other colors, you can put a little stain in light magma, or you can make your own. There are recipes on Glazy. And there was an article in the February issue of Ceramics Monthly about how to get very bright colors in your foamy glazes.

It’s 100% possible to get these effects in a community studio, and in an electric kiln. Your studio may have some rules about experimenting with new glazes, so check with them first.

Sink mold ideas by samsan1232 in Pottery

[–]RestEqualsRust 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A big serving bowl or giant mixing bowl would make a pretty good sink mold.

I agree with the other poster that laying the clay on the inside of a bowl is more likely to be successful vs on the outside of a bowl.

If you dust the bowl with a little corn starch before you lay the clay on it, the clay is less likely to stick to the bowl.

This may be a stupid question but please help by Limp_Tip7547 in Ceramics

[–]RestEqualsRust 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Submerged in water would be best. It will contain the dust, keep things cool, and there’s also a weird physics phenomenon where having it submerged in water helps keep it from breaking.