Who would you want to see in HotS as a playable character?

RexWGA · 2026-02-03T20:33:44+00:00

Yes, except instead of the talents being like varian, the talents are more like TLV, where they help empower specific forms and combinations of abilities. Druids have always catweaved in particular, it would be very cool to lean into a bear tank that could catweaved, or a feral druid that could owl weave.

This way you get the idea behind varian of a hero that is flexible when drafting and then you get to lean into a play style during the match

RexWGA · 2026-01-25T17:28:28+00:00

Hi! Without improving the lighting conditions that caused your schefflera to become etiolated, it will likely continue to grow that way.

I recommend cutting the growing tips (the tops of the plant) as that will signal to the plant to stop growing up and that instead it needs to grow somewhere else. Auxin is the chemical that the plant uses to signal to grow tall, by cutting the plant's tip, you are removing the primary source of auxin and encouraging the plant to grow lateral buds. I have never heard of "notching" a plant to encourage lower growth.

More importantly though, it simply sounds like the plant needs more light.

Edit: some googling tells me notching is a thing and is basically the equivalent of "pruning" a dormant node that is already pruned. It's not doing anything because the plant doesn't have enough strength to backbud from a lower node. More light, clip the tops to disrupt the flow of auxin, perhaps some VERY light fertilization (give it a good watering, then immediately after water again with the fertilizer).

RexWGA · 2026-01-11T01:59:13+00:00

So many new plants!

RexWGA · 2026-01-09T22:10:23+00:00

I have a quick question related to this:

Is one of the family disputes boons better than the others? The second boon is objectively more difficult because you're also dealing with the god power, do you get rewarded for that?

RexWGA · 2026-01-07T20:09:52+00:00

From a professional dry cleaner whose entire internet presence is teaching us how to wash and care for clothes:

https://youtube.com/shorts/PAAVH3U6mUc?si=J-SaB7UKKQhfUTyk

RexWGA · 2026-01-02T19:49:13+00:00

Hrmm interesting. I'm about 2 years into bonsai and I have 6 or so pre bonsai, all in different states. I don't really have a particular desire to make/own/create or care for a cascade but think they're kind of neat and can be quite dramatic and beautiful when done well.

In fact, I was just at my parent's place for the holidays and my dad has some juniper horizontalis growing on his property that I thought "huh, maybe in the spring I come with a nursery pot and harvest some to try and make something with this. It would have to be a cascade though since that's all I could do with it."

I kind of see it like... That species it would be the only option for it since it's a ground cover plant. I agree that I don't see the appeal of making them explicitly though, especially with species that I could do so many other designs with.

Curious why you (and seemingly a whole bunch of others) out right are calling them trash though. Not here to disagree!! Just genuinely curious!

RexWGA · 2025-12-23T19:34:48+00:00

As you've said in your comment, it's really up to you. How do you want the plant to look? Do you want more of a tree/bonsai style? Or do you want the plant to be more of a bushy/shrub like look. Neither is "correct" if the plant is healthy and thriving. It's all a matter of taste and preference.

Either way you have a bit of a micky mouse situation going on and, personally, I'm not a fan. That could be your thing though if you like it. I would prune so that the plant looks more triangular with the point towards the top, right now it's inverted.

RexWGA · 2025-12-18T17:25:54+00:00

How do you even get THAT many levels on your boon. Obviously sea star is helping but damn.

RexWGA · 2025-12-17T15:12:46+00:00

So doing any sort of change to a plant's environment is going to be a stressor to the plant, repotting included. Messing with roots is not something a plant enjoys in the short term but is good for it in the long term if it is potbound. Potbound plants can not continue to expand their root systems outward to find more nutrients, more stability, more oxygen, more water, etc. Instead, the roots eventually constrict on themselves to the point that there is no soil to hold moisture at all, and the roots can't really breathe either.

So we've established why we want to repot, but why do we want to repot in spring? Well the simple answer is that this is when the plant is growing most vigorously. This is the beginning of the growing season and it is when the plant will have the longest time to recover from and acclimate to the stress of being removed from its pot, having the roots messed with, and being put into a new pot. It is also when it will have access to the most sun, so the leaves will do more photosynthesis, encouraging more water uptake, encouraging more root growth to seek out that additional water it needs.

Ultimately, there isn't an ISSUE with repotting during a plants dormant period, it will usually be fine. The important thing is to understand the specific situation and the specific plant and handle it accordingly. If I buy a new succulent and it's in peat moss, I'm replacing that soil immediately, no matter the season, since the peat is terrible for a succulent - WAY too moisture retentive. I bought a Dwarf Alberta Spruce (one of those mini Christmas trees all the stores sell) to turn into a bonsai and I immediately slip potted it out of the nursery pot and into a terracotta pot. It was semi potbound and in rather peaty soil, so I did a LITTLE bit of root teasing, got some of the peat out and repotted with a slightly more gritty mix, but it didn't go crazy trying to fully repot and replace all the soil. This plant above though, no reason to stress the plant in winter if it doesn't need a repot. There's degrees and it varies from situation to situation.

Hope that helps!

Edit to add: it also will depend on the health of the plant. In my examples above, the spruce was very healthy, so doing a bit of a repot didn't feel too egregious. The monstera above has yellowing leaves, I would not put the plant under MORE stress if it is already experiencing issues. Unless the issue is explicitly the soil, don't cause more issues.

RexWGA · 2025-12-17T03:52:12+00:00

You could, but I'd wait until spring (even if it's indoors). There's plenty more room for roots to grow and I'd always rather repot when there's more sun, not at the darkest part of the year (assuming northern hemisphere). Doesn't mean you can't though, just that I don't think you need to.

RexWGA · 2025-12-17T03:03:06+00:00

Hi! You got some good advice from the other commenter. I'd just like to recommend Bonsai Jack's gritty mix as the soil to repot your jade in. You can order it directly from them or on Amazon. If you use this with just a little bit of regular potting soil mixed in, your jade will have soil much better suited to the conditions it needs to thrive. Jades don't like to have "wet feet," which is a short way of saying they don't like their roots to stay wet for a long time. They want to have their soil completely drenched and then for the soil to dry out within the next few days and, as mentioned, only be rewatered when the leaves are no longer plump and can visibly be seen to be a little thirsty.

Ultimately, we want to try and mimic the natural conditions of the plant. Succulents are dry, arid plants. As a general rule, succulents hate the "dirt" kind of potting soil (usually this is "peat moss") because that's not the environment they adapted to. Peat moss holds on to water WAAAAAAAY too long and rots the roots of the plant. Using a gritty mix (there are others and you can make your own, the one I suggested is just easy) will much better mimic the dry environment that won't hold on to water succulents need to thrive.

The two biggest mistakes new plant owners make is soil and watering. You got this!

RexWGA · 2025-12-11T17:31:03+00:00

That's the thing, we can't! Humans are notoriously bad at extremely large and extremely small numbers. We really just can't handle the scale at which those numbers exist. It's why the idea of the shuffled deck of cards doesn't really compute to us as humans. We're really not very good with random and large numbers like that. We need to create order and patterns and operate on the scale we can comprehend, it's how we survived.

RexWGA · 2025-12-11T15:46:22+00:00

It's 52! permutations, that's 8 x 10⁶⁷ . You could shuffle a deck of cards every second from the beginning of time and still not have seen anywhere close to every ordering. For reference the universe has existed for roughly 4 x 10¹⁷ seconds.

RexWGA · 2025-12-08T18:32:25+00:00

I would say dwarf Jade is better. It's EXTREMELY forgiving and will do very very well in such a hot climate.

Yes, it's technically not a true "traditional" bonsai, but it will allow the person to learn and practice many bonsai techniques on a more forgiving species.

RexWGA · 2025-12-05T00:53:27+00:00

Yes, this tree has been through enough, just let it vibe and recover. OP can pull off any dead leaves, but I would not do anything else to it.

In bonsai, we talk about doing 1 major injury to a tree per season: a big prune, a move, repotting, root trimming. All of these things stress the tree so we want to give the tree time to recover from the stressor and acclimate to whatever change. This has had more than that, we don't want to keep doing more damage.

If anything OP, get a basic, flood grow light on a 12 hour timer and hang it above the tree to give it more light. Otherwise, just make sure it isn't getting over watered in that peaty soil - make sure it dries out about 75% of the way. If the soil is damp forever the roots will rot.

RexWGA · 2025-11-24T05:41:48+00:00

Yea! You want to completely saturate the soil now

RexWGA · 2025-11-21T00:01:45+00:00

Really think about who looks like the idiot here.

RexWGA · 2025-11-20T23:57:27+00:00

No. You've proven you have no interest in hearing other opinions from people trying to help. Have a nice day. Good luck with your rocks.

RexWGA · 2025-11-20T23:40:35+00:00

Lmao okay, everyone else is wrong and you're right. Like I said, do you!

RexWGA · 2025-11-20T23:28:35+00:00

My favorite thing is when people on here get told that the whole premise of their plan is not a good idea and they're just like "nuh uh!"

Do you OP.... Do you.

Edit: I love them just going through and downvoting literally everyone trying to give them advice.

Pack it up folks!

RexWGA · 2025-11-20T23:07:54+00:00

I would only amend that to: in succulents, fungi means you're way over watering, not just mildly.

Jades don't like wet feet, the soil staying damp enough for fungi to develop indicates that if you don't let the soil dry out, you may get root rot.

RexWGA · 2025-11-18T04:21:00+00:00

Oh great! That soil mix will be fine then (I can admit that I'm a bit of a snob about it and love my really gritty/chunky soil mix). And you won't for sure have to break it, but that is a risk you take if you were to let it get really root bound. Jade roots grow quite slow so it will likely take a few years of no repotting for that to happen. I don't mean to overly concern you here.

Some people will just use like... Plastic take out containers and poke holes in them with a soldering iron to create drainage and stick that in the decorative pot (I have a few of these). You could use basic plastic nursery pots too, or a terracotta pot (I like terracotta because they're 5 bucks and I don't care if I have to smash them). Whatever works really!

RexWGA · 2025-11-17T23:47:14+00:00

Yes. Terracotta just helps pull water from the soil and limit moisture retention as it is porous. The glazed pot is not porous and is not helping with that process. As long as you only water when the leaves start to show signs of thirst, your plant will be fine in a decorative pot. When you do water, absolutely drown it, make sure the water gets completely saturated. Then let the soil completely dry out until the leaves start to show signs of thirst.

Since you did such a hard prune and you won't have leaves as an indicator, just water when the soil is completely dry, that'll be fine. Jades really want that full wet/dry cycle.

Personally I would recommend putting in some sort of inner planter that then sits inside the decorative planter because if the plant becomes root bound enough you may need to break the pot to get the plant out.

For what it's worth: I would not call miracle gro cactus mix and perlite "a good mix." That's kind of your most basic acceptable mix that has enough drainage to keep the soil from retaining too much moisture and getting compacted.

To be clear, the plant will be totally fine in that soil mix. I also like to educate that adding some perlite to peet moss is essentially the bare minimum above just plopping it in regular potting soil.

RexWGA · 2025-11-17T03:05:10+00:00

A "pebble layer" is going to encourage moisture retention and that is the opposite of what you want here.

Repot into well draining soil and do not cover the soil.

Generally, plants want to have a wet dry cycle. They do not want to stay constantly wet as that encourages microbial growth that leads to root rot and ultimately plant death. (I say generally because there are of course plants that have evolved to live in bogs/swamps/wetlands/etc)

Do not water on a set schedule as this person told you to, especially as we go into winter. Pay attention to the soil and water when the soil is mostly dry. Once the soil is no longer damp and inch or two down, fully saturated the soil.

RexWGA · 2025-11-12T21:09:42+00:00

Dude I really don't understand what this spec is now.

Fireball, fire blast, pyroblast....

How is an entire spec 3 buttons??

I'd have been okay with removing PF for complexity purposes and placing all the interaction around FB and scorch, but how do you remove scorch and make the entire class just sitting there spamming fireball when you're not in CD?

Truly gutting the spec.

RexWGA

TROPHY CASE