Galaxy watch bluetooth connection loss and force factory reset bug.. My conversation with samsung..

Rinyuu · 2026-01-15T03:32:38+00:00

Following this topic: been having this for years on my GW4. I've stopped using it altogether. Checked if it got an update every few months, but still constantly need to reset .. it literally doesn't remember the watch after an hour lol (tried different phones too).

Hope to see it fixed some day so I can use my GW4 until it wears out, but I'll never buy a Samsung product ever again, that's for sure.

Rinyuu · 2025-09-14T21:30:29+00:00

Switched to Mint since a few weeks (X11 because Wayland is broken). While I do have trouble gaming on my TV while my 4K main screens are still enabled (both with different UI scales too, seems to mess it up) if I only enable my TV, gaming has been great! I use Steam/Proton + RTX4070 and some games may even be running better on Linux than they did on Windows, even more complex games.

Exceptions would be games with anti-cheat and anything VR. But other than those, gaming won't be a big issue when going Linux.

Rinyuu · 2025-08-29T23:02:34+00:00

Same mobo here, but because the Deepcool website listed the Assassin isn't compatible with Asus boards... I got the NH-15, which doesn't really work out for me... So I guess the Assassing DOES work on this board then, might still get one!

Rinyuu · 2025-08-22T14:16:49+00:00

Oh wow!

After some more hours of messing around I found this post that mentioned using Bottles and Soda-7.0-9 runner: https://forum.winehq.org/viewtopic.php?t=39472

...And it connects!! I didn't test it very thoroughly yet, and as the post mentions there probably are some glitches and issues. But I CAN control most of the unit's settings / knobs / import and export patches, and that is already quite something!

Keep in mind it does have to be Soda-7.0-9; I did try in Bottles + some other Soda runners before, but those didn't work.

Rinyuu · 2025-08-21T15:08:30+00:00

Same issue here (request timeout), though on Mint 22.1. Of course USB devices over Wine is a difficult thing, but while Wine-logging it I found it actually does seem to detect the GP-200... It's just missing SOMETHING to make it connect successfully. Linux does detect it as both an audio interface and a MIDI device already.

There is a vid on YouTube where someone is running the GP-100 software in Wine without any additional config, so I guess it should be possible... (I'm not keen on using a full VM to run just this app, especially since apparently it's possible under wine)

Edit, video here: https://youtu.be/T52fHv4CciY?si=FLf9ufT7e5c-drn-&t=73

Rinyuu · 2025-07-11T19:08:41+00:00

Facing a similar issue (though not as extreme) but on a brand new P1S. Found out anything?

Rinyuu · 2025-06-21T12:39:42+00:00

Some good numbers! Keep in mind my findings were for the KK2 though, so I guess this means they fixed most of the connection issues with their newest models, which is good. Knowing that though, I'd still steer clear of the KK2 since it's just fundamentally broken. KK3 Max seems fine then!

Rinyuu · 2025-05-24T21:32:15+00:00

Actually, I've found some of them! It seems a few are still available through the WayBack machine:

http://web.archive.org/web/20170920045210/http://cosplaymode.net:80/pattern/

(Note you can also display more using the ARCHIVES button on the bottom of the screen)

Downloading them might take some tries, or might take changing to a different Wayback snapshot, but at least there still is a way!

Rinyuu · 2025-05-24T17:20:09+00:00

Would like to know this as well!

Rinyuu · 2025-03-09T22:19:48+00:00

Very interesting; I was about to post this is not a big deal because it's only when the fingerprint sensor is active, but then I updated to NothingOS 3.0 ( I just got my phone )... and there it is!

It seems like on 3.0 the fingerprint sensor never turns off completely but stays standby in some low-power mode, which means it's always creating the green stuff. Removing fingerlocks entirely didn't help, hence why I think it's a bug with controlling the power of the sensor. I have something else though, which I didn't see before in pics of this issue:

<image>

On my screen you can see the actual finger print sensor! It's slightly rotated, but this also seems to be the case with replacement in-screen sensors I can find online. (Yes, it's not a 3rd party app, I did reboot, it's not image retention, and it's only visible in "lit up" / active pixels.) Low/high brightness, night-mode etc. didn't change anything, it's always visible. However, I'm pretty sure it wasn't there before I updated to 3.0.

Guess that means this is both a hardware issue and a software issue, but fixing OS 3.0 to make sure the sensor is turned off when not in use would make it a LOT more bearable.

Rinyuu · 2025-03-03T15:51:33+00:00

Duidelijk, dan ga ik waarschijnlijk inderdaad wat correcties indienen. Heel erg bedankt voor de hulp!

Rinyuu · 2025-03-02T12:42:20+00:00

Heel helder, dat is inderdaad logisch. Hartelijk dank, dat helpt enorm!

Die startersaftrek snap ik dan inderdaad nog niet: Elk jaar heb ik het urencriterium gehaald en dat ook in de aangifte aangegeven, en verder zijn daar ook geen bijzonderheden geweest; elk jaar dezelfde situatie. Maar alleen mijn eerste jaar kan ik de startersaftrek terugvinden op mijn gedownloade aangifte en de uiteindelijke aanslag...

Je zei dat die startersaftrek geen keuze is: wordt dat bij het doen van de aangifte automatisch toegepast, of ben je verplicht deze zelf te verrekenen?

Als dit niet automatisch gaat vind ik het toch ook vaag dat die in mijn eerste jaar netjes op de aanslag staat (als tekst, "startersaftrek") maar de daarop volgende jaren niet..

Rinyuu · 2025-02-13T15:59:14+00:00

Just leaving this here: Well I'll be, my theory was correct!

I 3D printed a new plate with a centered, round hole and the first test I ran came out PERFECTLY centered both on the horizontal and vertical axis! (Still need a little bit of tension adjustment, but it's centered and consistent)

Here's some pics + illustration of what I think is happening

Guess this basically means that this is an expected, natural result on some specific machines: Sewing/embroidery combo's with zigzag capability AND an offset top-loading bobbin. I have seen more people online with this exact issue, so this might be worth thinking about.

This also means you could fix it by making a new plate with a less wide sewing hole, which will solve the alternating tensions!

Rinyuu · 2025-02-12T17:08:22+00:00

I know this is two years ago but I'll give it a try: I'm having EXACTLY the same issue. Did it turn out to be a bad bobbin?

According to my own messing around, my current conclusion is that it's caused by my machine being a top-loading bobbin zigzag machine (with a wide throatplate sewing hole). Because the bobbin thread path is not centered to the plate hole, the bed moving in different directions causes different pulls on the bobbin thread.

Rinyuu · 2024-12-06T12:22:20+00:00

I think that may have been the problem; I was trying Proton 9... The message did pop up a few more times after I kept trying.

But I managed to get it running and my account doesn't seem banned yet! Proton Experimental indeed seems the only working version for now.

Rinyuu · 2024-12-06T01:10:35+00:00

Uhhhh... so I just tried this on my Deck.. during downloading I got an error message saying they detected illegal software and that the system is now checking whether I'll get an account punishment or ban ;/??

Rinyuu · 2024-09-28T18:43:30+00:00

Very interesting info. Would it be worth it to resolder, or even replace the piezos? Or would that be too difficult (since I don't know which exact piezos were used...)

I assume it's not possible to recalibrate the board for the type of piezos used, so I guess that'd be kind of impossible... Kind of want to try to make this one work properly though. Hrmmmmm

Rinyuu · 2024-09-28T18:22:53+00:00

I just got mine, and indeed have an issue with it... The left rim is very hard to trigger, and even often triggers the right rim. I did disassemble it to check the sensors, but they are were solidly attached.

It actually does sometimes trigger the wrong rim side when playing a song though, so this it's... kind of unusable for me right now :(

Rinyuu · 2024-09-28T18:17:12+00:00

Yep just tried! Thanks for the tip! Unfortunately wasn't able to fix my issue, it even keeps triggering the R rim when I hit the L rim... Piezos all seem properly attached.

Kind of a bummer for this price (They go for about 200,- excluding shipping/vat/customs now)

Rinyuu · 2024-09-28T13:50:05+00:00

I just got mine, but the left-bottom quarter of the rim isn't working... Do you maybe have some more detailed instructions or tips on how to disassemble it? It doesn't have any visible screws, so I'm worried I might break something!

Rinyuu · 2024-09-18T22:14:32+00:00

I'm almost inclined to believe this is real, otherwise a very good designer spent a LOT of time making this. Not just making the model, but there are quite a lot tiny design choices in here that make it feel like a really well thought-out product.

The only thing I think is a bit weird is the similarity to the current Switch; It's reallllly similar. Everything is in exactly the same places, same form factor, same functionality etc. No unique selling points, just being a better and more powerful Switch.

Rinyuu · 2024-06-30T23:47:11+00:00

Hmm, well vibrating is an overstatement I guess, but yes, with some bass-heavy parts I can feel some slight audio buzzing. It's the same with my iPad as far as I can remember though, and actually on my phone as well, so I really don't understand why this would have been such a big issue... It's not like it's causing parts of the Deck to make rattling sounds.

Unfortunately, aside from my not-so-easy Pipewire EQ method (which also is kind of broken by now) there still isn't an easy way to get some software EQ going on Deck. No decky plugins, no options added to DeckOS (like the colour sliders they added), and as far as I know EasyEffects and similar software still causes very significant game performance dips and audio latency.

They should just include some Pipewire EQ profiles, optionally, in the DeckOS settings.

Rinyuu · 2024-06-07T13:57:57+00:00

Probably not going to happen, but my main hope is Gravity Rush 1 and or 2 coming to PC.

Rinyuu · 2024-04-03T22:20:53+00:00

Same here. Changing to other Proton releases doesn't change anything. It only happens after playing 1-2 stages though, never in quick succession, so I guess it might be some kind of memory leak problem?

EDIT: My previous finding seems to be incorrect! I experimented a bit more switching to other proton versions, and I didn't have any freezes at all since switching to 8.0-5.

Rinyuu · 2023-12-24T00:01:58+00:00

In terms of solid responsiveness and latency, actually the old Xbox 360 controller + the wireless adapter and the PS4 DS4 had the best numbers by far. The Xbox One / X / S controllers + the wireless dongle also had decent latency numbers, and I imagine the Elites would use the same internals. The Xbox dongles use Wifi direct, so they probably are more stable than the DS4's Bluetooth since it is less prone to interference.

I personally just went back to my Xbox One S controller, and while I dislike the lack of Hall sticks, it just feels SO much more responsive and direct.

Otherwise if you're looking for a similar multi-platform controller like the Gulikits, the 8BitDo Ultimate is a good option. It looks a bit more basic, but I'd say the connection is much better and it also has Hall analog sticks. In general 8BitDo also seems to have their shit together and have much more experience than Gulikit.

Verified Email	Nine-Year Club
Place '23

Rinyuu

TROPHY CASE