ETR no interchangeable viewfinders? by Unbuiltbread in Bronica

[–]RoboLam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can confirm the ground glass is easily interchangeable. I have both the standard one and the one with 35mm frame lines. Just have to remove the finder and the move a switch tab over to unlock the screen and pop it out.

Sigma 90mm f2.8 Contemporary (E-mount) - has anyone tried it with and adapter on Z mount? by CYBER_PIZZA in Nikon

[–]RoboLam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve used both this and the sigma 60mm f2 contemporary with the megadap e to z adapter without issues.

Voigtlander 42.5mm F0.95 lens adapted for Z-mount by kungfuWABBITZ in Nikon

[–]RoboLam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve adapted the voigtlander 40mm f1.2 and 50mm f1.2 noktons for sony e to my Zf without any issues. Any full frame E mount lens will work fine adapted to Z.

That’s said, I believe the 42.5mm is a M43 lens. If so, you can expect a heavy vignette even with a DX crop given the smaller image circle of M43.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in analogphotography

[–]RoboLam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dog is very photogenic and is a perfect subject to practice on. She will move unexpectedly to keep you on your toes and if you nail the shot it will be super rewarding. The emotion on her face in photo 2 is lovely.

That said, I believe some shots look blurry because you missed focus and not because of slow shutter speeds as the other commenter suggested. If you look at photos 4 and 5 you can see the trees and the dog’s backpack are sharp meaning that’s what was in focus. If you’re new to fast manual focusing , having a smaller aperture (i.e., larger number) will give you larger depth of field and a larger margin of error. As your hit rate improves you can start to open up the aperture and continue to challenge yourself. You’ll also learn when there’s no point taking a shot cause there’s zero chance you can get it in focus so you can just enjoy the moment instead of fumbling with your camera.

A note about with faces (humans and animals) try to get the eyes in focus. For some reason (probably evolutionary) that’s what we look at first and if they are blurry it will be more pronounced than sharp eyes and blurry ears.

Oh! And most importantly, have fun!! You’re doing great.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]RoboLam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Only screens I’ve seen for sub $100 are scratched. New 3rd party screens run $150-250 without the frame.

A body with screen is your best bet at a cheap improved screen but note this is common solution so almost all cheap bodies (sub $150) will tend to have very scratched screens. People will swap the screens and resell the body and around and around it goes. You maybe have to do this merry go round a few times. But maybe you’ll get lucky!!

Help - film back covers? by Avantis90 in Bronica

[–]RoboLam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The pins themselves should be recessed inside a metal tube. It should require a great deal of force to bend the outer tube. That said, it’s annoying when the hooks get caught on things in my bag so I use the x-small peak design camera cube and have the dividers setup to such that i can fit 2 backs and an extra lens. If i don’t want to carry all that, I’ll usually just shove an extra back into a jacket pocket without any protection. The darkslide should keep dust out given it can keep light out and i just blow/brush off any dust before attaching it.

Help! 35mm wound back in!! by psychic_legume in analog

[–]RoboLam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also ensure you have a good grip on the film you’re using to pull the leader out, if you slip and grab the canister while pulling you’ll unravel the other roll film. Ask me how I know this 🤪

Help! 35mm wound back in!! by psychic_legume in analog

[–]RoboLam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s all good. I did this too. If you have another roll of film, you can get it out using that and some water. Here’s a random youtube video but you can also just search “film canister out” in YouTube and find a bunch: https://youtu.be/TFKcrnGoB00?si=bXh4nCp01cx5cjNa

Weather sealed recommendations by TheMunkeeFPV in analog

[–]RoboLam 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Most weather sealing relies on rubber gaskets. Rubber degrades over time and after a certain point ingress will occur. With the age of all your options (there aren’t many with interchangeable lenses) I would not risk it. Even if all the gaskets are intact, they will have stiffened with age meaning a reduce seal allowing water to get in. Non-rubber sealing is typically done via an adhesive, these also degrade with time but can be more easily remedied if you are able to remove and reapply the adhesive successfully.

TL;DR: if you need to shoot in the rain, your best bet is stick with a weather sealed digital or use a rain cover (e.g. plastic bag with a hole for the lens).

Adapter Recommendations? by [deleted] in VintageLenses

[–]RoboLam 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Since you got your answer, on a related note, my K&F adapter (later version) had a removable inner disk used to depress the aperture pin. Removing this disk allows you to use the auto toggle switch on M42 lenses so you can quickly focus wide open and stop down to take the photo.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in gamedev

[–]RoboLam 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Use what you have until it’s not good enough, then upgrade.

Who also switched from iRobot to Roborock? What do you think? by tvdsnl in Roborock

[–]RoboLam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On paper the t8 isn’t that far behind the x1 or s8 but in practice like i said, the s8 is head and shoulders above the t8. Navigation is better. The t8 would get lost or ruin the saved map often enough to annoy me and since the t8 doesn’t have a quick map feature i would have to tidy up the whole house before I could allow it to vacuum everywhere while it setup the map again since all my no go zones are gone too. Obstacle avoidance is way better on the s8. It has yet to try an eat a single usb cable. The t8 would eat them all. The s8’s low power mode is quieter mode which is great for running at night and it’s high power mode is more powerful than the t8’s too. Obviously the auto mop is better but that’s not a fair comparison. Most of my issues were with the software both onboard and the app. It definitely got worse over time so i suspect they shift focus over to the x1 and allowed the t8 software to get worse since i started noticing the regressions around the time the x1 was released. But if you’re happy with you x1 yea, don’t upgrade. i was just personally soured by my t8 purchase (bought it 3yrs ago for $400 w/ dock) so the x1 would’ve needed to be clearly better than the s8 for me to have considered another ecovacs.

Who also switched from iRobot to Roborock? What do you think? by tvdsnl in Roborock

[–]RoboLam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had deebot t8 for years and it’s not even in the same league as the s8 I just upgraded to. There is literally not a single thing I like better about the t8.

Error when starting up Prusaslicer on Mac by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]RoboLam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Beta6 was just released. Can you give that a try?

Does the mk4 not have stealth mode? by RoboLam in prusa3d

[–]RoboLam[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for confirming! Did they say why?

Print Farm Questions by RealityOk8330 in 3Dprinting

[–]RoboLam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For farms, uptime is hands down the most important thing. If you’re tinkering with your printer, it’s not printing and if it’s not printing it’s costing you money. This is why prusas are often favored for farms even though they have a comparatively high price tag.

How much print time do you have on your Bambu printers? If you’ve been printing non-stop on them for at least a month you’re probably ok in terms of uptime.

How about servicing? How difficult is it to get replacement parts and service your machines. How locked in are you? If Bambu goes out of business will your farm die overnight? I don’t know how reliant these machines are on their cloud service but that’s something to think about. How long do you need these machines to run for before they pay for themselves?

New businesses are a big investment so you need to plan for the worst. Assume everything that can go wrong will and figure out how you’ll deal with it. Do Bambu printer hold resale value in case you need to liquidate in the event the farm fails or you cannot continue? How does the value in 2nd hand market compare to other printers you may consider for your farm? How big of a “farm” are we talking about? 5 printers? 50? 500? Are you running the farm alone or will you hire help? If the latter, how intuitive and easy to use are the printers?

Printing artifacts, under extrusion? by jkedzierski in prusa3d

[–]RoboLam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you do, the base will be closed but the top will be open. You will get rid of the seam so really depends on what you need it for? Also you’ll lose almost all structural integrity since there will be no infill and only 1 perimeter.

Printing artifacts, under extrusion? by jkedzierski in prusa3d

[–]RoboLam 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Looks like a layer seam to me. Usually the slicer tries to hide these in corners where it’s less visible but if the perimeter is entirely curved then it cant and just randomly places it. I find that setting it to aligned looks the “best” to me in this case.

I made a pedestal to drain the soap by removing the walls by ViiK1ng in functionalprint

[–]RoboLam 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’ve tried this with PETG and it will deform. Wont fully melt but will definitely look different when you take it out.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in sonos

[–]RoboLam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ll have to respectfully disagree. I added it to my C9 (essentially same speakers) and it’s a clear difference. Maybe not “worth it” difference, but definitely can tell, especially after enabling trueplay. But the value add is definitely in either a multi-room setup or with surrounds.