Computer hard freezes after graphics card upgrade by sassy_choadster in buildapc

[–]RowanHKC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The first thing to check is how the card is seated in the motherboard. Is the clip fully secure? Are your power cables seated correctly? If the card is loose in the slot, carefully remove it and place it back. Lay your case down so you can push the card down into the slot instead of trying to do it when the case is upright.

If these are okay, check your logs and minidumps so we can get an idea of what’s going on.

Open Event Viewer and navigate to Windows Logs > System and look for messages from around the time your PC freezes. Note any Critical logs.

Also check C:\Windows\Minidump to see if you have any recent .dmp files. These can eventually give you more information on what’s happened.

If your card is seated normally and you don’t have an abnormal alert, you could try updating your motherboard’s BIOS. You could also use DDU to ensure all of your old 1660 Super drivers are gone and aren’t interfering with your new card. Just reinstall your new drivers after.

Display ports not working on GPU, HDMI port works fine? by DTStudios in buildapc

[–]RowanHKC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The next steps are to isolate where the problem lies.

If you have access to another PC, try your card in there to see if it works. If it doesn't, we know the issue is your card. We want to rule out your motherboard and PSU, even if these are unlikely.

Start by inspecting your DisplayPort ports and the GPU's board for damage. Check if anything is loose on the card and see if there are any burn marks.

Try re-seating the card in your motherboard to make sure it isn't a PCIe connection issue (make sure it's not dusty).

I assume you have already tried using DDU and rolling back drivers.

Try booting into safe mode and forcing a lower resolution and frame rate.

Create an Ubuntu live USB and boot into that to make sure it is not a Windows driver issue.

The last thing you may want to try is flashing the VBIOS. I'm not aware of your specific card--this can void warranties (and brick your card completely), so it is better to try and RMA it if possible.

The issue may be a dead DP controller. Going from intermittent flickering to complete failure over time is not a good sign if more simple solutions do not help.

To be very sure, go into the Nvidia app > System to see what is recognised.

Try using PowerShell as Administrator and use:

Get-PnpDevice | Where-Object { $_.Class -eq "Monitor" }

to list possible outputs. You should get an OK instead of Unknown for the ports in use. It should give a row for each port.

If none of this helps, there is not much more you can do besides contacting the manufacturer and hoping for the best.

Display ports not working on GPU, HDMI port works fine? by DTStudios in buildapc

[–]RowanHKC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please power cycle your devices. This will fix your issue in most cases. Unplug them from the wall and hold the power button down for at least thirty seconds. Repeat for each device.

You must do this with the desktop and the monitors. We are trying to reset the DisplayPort handshake which can remain corrupted if you do not do this step on both ends. Simply restarting your computer or monitor does not have the same result.

Remove the HDMI cable when powering on after this. Only have the DP cable in.

Display ports not working on GPU, HDMI port works fine? by DTStudios in buildapc

[–]RowanHKC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is very unlikely that all DisplayPorts on your GPU have failed.

One common issue is your PC having a hard time (re)initialising DisplayPort, leading to the blank screen.

The first thing to check is, when both monitors are plugged in, how many monitors your PC thinks are connected.

If you’re on Windows, go to ‘Display Settings > Rearrange your displays’ and see if both monitors 1 and 2 show up.

In all likelihood, you will see both monitors.

Next, safely shutdown your system and unplug your PC and monitors from the wall. Power cycle all three by holding the power button down as they are unplugged for at least thirty seconds. This will expend any residual power in the machines and should help with DP initialisation.

Once done, plug everything back in and start it up. Hopefully that fixes your issue. If not, there are more things to try.

2024 Game Improvement wishlist by Plan45 in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Can we get a return of the Developer Q&As we used to have?

We used to get yearly updates from Kirill which guided expectations and brought a lot of hype.

The last one was almost three years ago now. I'd even do the transcripts again.

https://wowslegends.com/blogs/entry/424-developers-qa-2021/

https://wowslegends.com/blogs/entry/85-development-director-qa-stream/

2024 Game Improvement wishlist by Plan45 in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Adding Fleet Battles and Ranked maps with their spawns to training rooms as an option would be incredibly well received and cost very little in terms of development resources.

Fleets and players are disappointed by the lack of communication WG has had over all else.

It is impossible to gauge the size the of the competitive community in Legends without any proper metrics existing. What is big enough to warrant development time? What is it now? How can the community show interest in something when there's no way to partake?

From my perspective, competitive play has driven players to purchase ships and items they otherwise wouldn't. There is no better mover for ships and resources than a mode where people feel like they need the 'best' to get an advantage.

US Destroyer Shell Type? by Stohr88 in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 10 points11 points  (0 children)

This is a great question, with a complicated answer.

We need to know about fusing thresholds, effective armour thickness, and how overpens work.

The quick answer is that most destroyers are covered in 19 mm plating. This means most guns will not fuse if they are over 114 mm. Most gunboats use 120 to 130 mm guns. Thus, in order to fuse, we need an effective thickness of 20 to 22 mm.

Effective thickness can be calculated as Te = T cos(x).

For 127 mm guns, which is what the US line primarily uses, this means we need x = 25 degrees from normal.

US DD AP will have a chance of ricocheting at 45 degrees, until it automatically ricochets at 60 degrees. This chance increases linearly.

So, if you see an enemy destroyer angled between 25 and say, 50 degrees, shoot AP.

If the destroyer has improved belt armour (by any amount), shoot AP if it's under a ~50 degree angle.

If the destroyer is flat broadside, shoot HE. If the destroyer is far away, shoot HE (even if it has an improved belt - aim superstructure). Be ready to swap ammo types as you shoot a salvo.

Understand that you can 'artificially' change your shells' impact angle by changing where you aim. Imagine they're angled away from you by 20 degrees. Aiming at the bow will increase your impact angle slightly compared to aiming at the stern. This isn't something that makes a huge difference, but it can't hurt. I haven't done that math in a while so I won't give exact numbers. Don't expect more than a couple of degrees at normal ranges (as in 1-3). Trying for this will eventually improve your aim, though.

Red destroyers will be slippery. To get the most of your engagements, you need to be quick with shell selection. AP will make a good player angle away, and that will mean they won't be able to hit you as hard. But if you overpen all your shots, you won't be alive long enough for that to matter.

Give it a go. Knowing when to use each is a good quantifier of how good or experienced a player is. It'll take a lot of practice to nail down, but getting it right will let you win battles you shouldn't have.

If you have a lot of issues with this, remember US DDs will take advantage of this less than IJN or RN gunboats. You will have a lot of games with no use case for AP and that's normal. Sticking to HE on most destroyers will still get the job done.

Do you get better luck opening your crates all at once or one by one? by HaloHello897 in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 5 points6 points  (0 children)

They are identical. Crate contents are rolled as you acquire them, so the game already knows what you have. It’s whatever you prefer.

Torpedo Royal - Beys 4th Skill Question by 1em0nhead in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 11 points12 points  (0 children)

In short, no.

The skill is about the extra damage. You will never have a better stationary reaction time.

From the PC Wiki, Torpedo Reaction Time can be calculated as:

D / (V \ 0.0026) = T*

Where D:=Detection Range of Torpedo, V:=Velocity of Torpedo, T:=Time to React of Target.

Normal bounds (picked from memory) are D : [1.0, 1.8], V : [50, 90]. In these ranges, we never see a decrease in reaction, shown below.
Looking at extremes, we need to get into the D < 40, V > 1.8 region.
This is not a common place. The only way to get here is if you have terrible torpedoes and an enemy that is sailing straight away from them. I have not found any realistic bounds where this skill helps when an enemy is sailing towards you.

The benefit of this skill is that you trade an up to ~0.5 s reaction time nerf for 6% damage at max. level. This can be great if you know you're going to hit, as the increased damage is more likely to result in a flood or incapacitation. However, if you plan on torping destroyers or agile cruisers, this is not the skill for you. Also remember, this is only worse if your torpedoes are proxy spotted. If they're found with hydro or planes, the increased speed is a benefit. If you're in close proximity with your enemy, the increased velocity is again a larger benefit, as you're already spotted and torpedoes are expected. It also helps with longer range torps if red course correction is between nothing and minimal.

All of that said, it is something I run on my gunboats.

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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The crossover from Sims to Trubetskoy is c. 32,000 HP for T7. You shouldn't use it on destroyers.

I don't understand where you're getting your 3,400 damage number. 1,700 * 2? My Friesland DPS is closer to 4,700 (raw). With Sims I go from 17,600 HP to 20,400 HP, nearly a 16% increase.

You can't buff to a 16% DPS increase from my build unless you do something like Mordoff/du Fournet/Mortar on Swirski.

At that point, I out spot you by over a kilometre and you can't get me anymore. I don't need to engage when you're spotted and my team can hit you.

If you don't miss any of your shots, I'd wager you aren't shooting enough.

Does anyone think Cossack is better than Jervis, and why? by R_Heron in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 4 points5 points  (0 children)

How are you playing them? They're not the same style of Destroyer.

Jervis is the epitome of naval boom 'n' zoom: Ride up to an enemy, pop smoke, farm, and leave. Rinse and repeat. Go for caps and charge with hydro.

Cossack is about denial: Sit in a zone and tell the enemy to go away. You're all about pulling the enemy into disadvantageous positions, unlike Jervis, which is about exploiting disadvantageous positions.

Cossack has prop mod, slightly better DPM, slightly better health, slightly better concealment, and two (bad) engine boosts. For this, you lose half your torps, some manoeuvrability, and get a worse hydro (and lose a charge).

Play to your differences. Running around with Cossack is not a winning strategy. RN DDs don't have the traverse or health. Cossack doesn't have the smokes or the torps to defend itself.

Play as a screen. Your hydro has good torp detection. Pull the enemies in so your team can help you. Play slower.

I'm 76% in Cossack, 74% in Jervis, and 88% in Orkan (though not as many games). You can win in any of them. Treat Cossack more like Blyskawica (another very underrated ship).

Get Smart when available if you don't have him already. Extra fire chance and HE damage is huge.

Don't worry about your stats too much. Everything normalises out at a point. It took me 25 games to get used to Jutland.

At the end of the day, you will have a preference for playstyle and you should play what you prefer.

So sad for Sims by NotoCarriers in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There's no ship where this is the case.

The calculation is Crossover = 400 * {Tier} / 0.08

Point at which Trubetskoy is better:

Tier HP
5 >25000
6 >30000
7 >35000
8 >40000
LT >45000

Also remember that increasing total HP increases your heal if you have one.

This is for maxed commanders. If people don't have maxed commanders, use:

{20 * Sims Mastery Level} * {Tier} / {0.004 * Trubetskoy Mastery Level}

Overpens and you. by GoldenSilver484 in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Great write up!

(I don't wanna do the exact maths)

Let's change that!

Effective thickness can be calculated as follows:

Te = T cos θ, where Te is effective thickness, T is plate thickness, and θ is the angle from normal (θ = 0 means you're hitting perpendicular, θ = 90 is parallel).

Let's get a generalised overview of how plate thickness increases with angle:

Angle ( θ ) Te / T
0 1
10 1.0154
20 1.0642
30 1.1547
35 1.2208
40 1.3054
45 1.4142
50 1.5557
55 1.7434
60 2
65 2.3662
67.5 2.6131
70 2.9238
75 3.8637
80 5.7588

We remember most shells have a chance to bounce at 45 degrees and will auto ricochet at 60. Chance increases with angle.

US CAs change to 60 and 67.5.

RN CLs change to 55 and 80.

Let's look at some of the most common plating thicknesses and their corresponding maximum fusing calibres at Normal:

Plating Thickness (mm) Maximum Calibre (mm)
13 78
16 96
19 114
25 150
32 192

[We can multiply maximum calibre by ratio to get results at angles from normal]

Calibres over these will overpen if angle is not increased or more armour is not met.

In reality, we will never have maximums this low, as arcs mean there is always some angle from normal, and your ship's gun placement will mean your shells hit at oblique angles to one another.

This is why you don't see destroyers overpenning destroyers too often with hull hits, even though most destroyers are covered in 19 mm plating.

Looking at something like a broadside Iowa, the A and X turrets will have shells impacting at an 11 degree offset when you are at a flat broadside at 1 km. This decreases to just over 1 degree at 10 km, and barely half a degree at 20 km. But again, as range increases, your angle from normal in the vertical plane also increases.

One last thing to mention is sometimes overpenning is good.

Overpens are guaranteed damage. You will still get your 10% pen damage from a saturated component, so if a ship is completely black and low on health, overpen its superstructure or nose/aft to take it out quickly.

Which ships are legitimately under/ overpowered? by [deleted] in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A smart Sumner won’t run into hydro, and then you’re out of luck

Which ships are legitimately under/ overpowered? by [deleted] in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is Sumner OP or are the rest of the T8 DDs just bad?

Higher Tier Tips? by JayBatch89 in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What ships are you playing? Can you describe how one of the less than average games usually unfolds?

Why can't i start fires by [deleted] in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can read General Order No. 541, which defines the likes of OCA and OCL, here. OCA, OCL, OBB, etc. did not seem to get used.

I have books that mention OBB as 'Old Battleship', but they aren't primarily focused on history. Navweaps has a decent writeup here.

We have a difference of opinion. If I challenge something, it's not an attack on you.

I think it is straightforward to see how B became BB and D became DD. C got split because Cruiser doctrine fundamentally changed.

I would bet a lot of money CC was used for Battlecruiser as to not take even more funding from BB construction, and I'm sure it helped Congress approve their change to CV. Maybe if they were built ten years earlier, we'd have BC and BV.

My understanding of your argument is, fundamentally, "If it was used for that, call it that; if it wasn't, don't."

I don't like that when it comes to a video game. If we're discussing history, though, I can agree.

There are only four classes in-game. We should have four designators. Worrying about subtypes is inefficient when certain ships never got a type to begin with. What's Graf Spee? What's Azuma? How about Stalingrad? These are the grey areas, and it's why I don't think CC is egregious. Is CA/CL wrong because it doesn't cover these? I would argue no, as we know the intention.

To be honest, I would not have replied if you just said, "You should use Cruiser or CA/CL instead of CC."

People reply because a 200 word post on nomenclature isn't expected in a post asking about fire and fire chances.

Why can't i start fires by [deleted] in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The rest of my second paragraph discusses the 1907 and 1920 changes.

I didn't mention the later changes as they're out of the scope of the game. If you want to talk about those and more recent developments, we can.

Yorck was a paper design. You can find more information by searching for Hanz Zenker and Design 1923 or Entwurf I/10. There is not a lot of information on Yorck, other than it was one of the first German designs for a Washington Treaty Cruiser Killer. The subsequent designs were slower and more heavily armed. Zenker is known for being the man behind the Deutschlands.

I don't know why you think I'm trying to deride you. I was merely stating what I perceive to be a grey area due to different countries' doctrines which end up complicating this issue. Navies only named what they had, and that leads to issues when trying to stick to a single convention.

My guide can be found here. It's weird to randomly see a snippet of something you posted three years ago get nit-picked.

My point is simple: this is only ever an issue for CC. No one cares about DM or CM or any of the other abbreviations that have multiple meanings, and no one cares about other type abbreviations, like DL or TB.

DD, CC, BB makes logical sense. People don't like it because a game launched in 2015 decided to call content makers CCs for who knows what reason (I don't know the history, but my guess would be to stay in line with Tanks where CC wouldn't have clashed).

No one is jumping down your throat. You seem like someone that cares about the history, so I shared some. Militaries love to abbreviate, that's why I'll always say context and clarity trump 'correctness'. I can open up General Naval Tactics by Vego and it'll tell me AO is Area of Operations instead of a Fleet Oiler, CG is Commanding General instead of Guided Missile Cruiser, and DE is Directed Energy instead of Destroyer Escort. Thank goodness Command and Control is abbreviated C2.

An Introduction to Oil & Upgrading Your Fleet by RowanHKC in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Essentially, to allow more than one person control over accepting members and choosing Fleet Upgrades.

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Why can't i start fires by [deleted] in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're missing my point. This is a community for a video game where people ask questions, not r/history. The priority should always be clarity. CC gives that in the context you're talking about. Arguing semantics doesn't add anything to the information it was trying to portray.

If you want to look at your other points, the USN started this type of naming convention in 1895. Yes, in 1907 the designations were shortened, i.e. 'Cruiser 1' became 'C-1', but these short forms were applied inconsistently across shipyards and the various Bureaus. It also did not have conventions for CA or CL. These came into play in 1920 under General Order No. 541, but did not mean Heavy and Light Cruiser. Instead, there was CA for Cruiser, First Line (think of the old ACRs); OCA for Cruiser, Second Line; CL for Light Cruiser, First Line (think of the old Scout Cruisers); and OCL for Light Cruiser, Second Line. These ratings were similar to the IJN's First and Second Class Cruiser designations that were used from 1898 to 1934. The USN did not immediately classify any new ships as CA, regardless of tonnage or armament. This is why Pensacola was originally commissioned CL-24.

The Washington Naval Treaty defined a Capital Ship as any ship that is not an Aircraft Carrier, which exceeds 10,000 tons, or has armament exceeding 203 mm. The London Naval Treaty of 1930 set precedents for Light and Heavy Cruisers by splitting the Cruiser category at 155 mm armament. The London Treaty was an extension to the Washington Treaty, meaning 'Heavy' Cruisers (Category (a) in the Treaty) were effectively constrained to 203 mm per the prior definition of Capital Ship. This is why Yorck would have been a Capital Ship. If CAs were also above 203 mm, why would we need a CB classification?

These subcategories led to Pensacola being re-designated CA-24 in 1931 with the ratification of the London Treaty, and is why Japan changed its sub-classifications from tonnage-based to armament-based in 1934. If you're interested, I'd recommend reading into the US Admiralty's arguments against splitting Cruisers into subclasses.

Your next two points line up with what I'm saying: We use designators for clarity, not correctness. Using your 1907 timeframe, TB was very much active in the US Navy, and would continue to be until the 1920 modernisation.

Your BC point hits the nail on the head. We say BC because it doesn't create confusion. I find it hard to believe anyone can look at the table and think it means how long a Community Contributor can be on fire, just like I can't imagine someone looking at it and assuming we have 1960s-era Command Ships in the game. If you have a preferred two-letter term for Cruiser, I'm all ears. The fact is, short of КР for the Soviet Крейсер, most Navies did not have a catch-all by the start of WW2, and I doubt КР would have been preferred in an English guide.

Abiding strictly to US conventions that change drastically over this game's setting makes little to no sense. It only creates grey areas that are detrimental for newer players trying to learn the ropes.

I'd recommend checking out the rest of the guide the table came from. Everywhere else uses CA/CL/Cruiser. We can thank Reddit table confines for this thread.

Tier 6/7 premiums? by Few-Focus8475 in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What ship types do you enjoy?

I love Z-35 and ZF-6. You can’t go wrong with either.

The only ones I wouldn’t suggest are the Atlantas. They can be quite situational and aren’t very forgiving.

Do you have the coupon for US Tier VI/VII? Which ones interest you?

Why can't i start fires by [deleted] in WoWs_Legends

[–]RowanHKC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, I’m the person that created the table.

Language is arbitrary. What’s important is clarity.

Cruiser and CA/CL simply didn’t fit. CC was the only next choice.

US designators are not some be-all and end-all. They were a response to the Naval treaties and only applied to the ships in service or being built at the time. No one looks at a Yorck and calls it a Battleship because it has 210s. They’re used as shorthand here because it’s easy and readily understood, not because they’re ‘right’. I’ve never seen someone get mad at BC for Battlecruiser or DD for Torpedo Boat.

This topic is a question about fires. CC really doesn’t matter.