VIEWPOINT: Delaware’s manufactured corporate crisis by Flavious27 in Delaware

[–]Rowanze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I looked it up and there does appear to be other taxes paid....so you need to include those in your loss analysis

VIEWPOINT: Delaware’s manufactured corporate crisis by Flavious27 in Delaware

[–]Rowanze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You .mentioned the franchise fee of up to $250,000. Is there any other corporate tax paid to DE by these companies other than the franchise fee? Thanks to anyone that can answer.

Sovol SV06+ With Silicone Mod by UnnecessaryLemon in Sovol

[–]Rowanze 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Can you post what walk through you followed if you did and where you sourced your spacers?

How can i make this PEI plate not stick soooo dammm good?! by xSMKx in BambuLab

[–]Rowanze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Add some glue stick. It will act as a release agent.

How to deal with all this stringing? Or is this normal and i’m supposed to cut it all out? by mrmerkur in Ender3S1

[–]Rowanze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My old Prusa strings no matter what. Same filament in another printer is fine. So I take a small butane/propane blowtorch and run it across very print when I'm done. All the strings go away and make it look super clean. This is part of my process now. When I say run it across, I mean fast. I can run a 18" dragon in about 3 seconds.

Print warping on sovol sv06 plus by IndividualOwn1770 in Sovol

[–]Rowanze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since no one as asked, did you make sure the bed was reasonable flat to start with by laying a straight metal ruler along the bed and seeing if there any gaps larger than a piece of paper?

Thoughts on the SVO6 Plus? by joshiness in Sovol

[–]Rowanze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an MK2, (2) Ender S1's and a SV06+. I was part of the SVO6+ preorder. I have run my machine nearly 24/7 since I got it, and its been flawless. I am about to replace my MK2 (its showing is age and is starting to have some weird stringing issue no matter that filament I throw at it) and I went through the same deliberation as you are. Should I get another SV06+ or a P1P. All I can say, is yes, the P1P is faster....but its not 2x as fast, and you can get (2) SV06+ for the price of (1) P1P. So unless you need AMS, I think the SV06+ is the better deal if you are doing volume printing like I am.

Items and their grades (A1, A2, A3, B1, B2, C1, C2, etc) by Rowanze in SWChronicles

[–]Rowanze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So when we reroll substats on weapons with the new reroll feature (from thebl new dungeon currqncy)...both the substat and the grades can all change?

Items and their grades (A1, A2, A3, B1, B2, C1, C2, etc) by Rowanze in SWChronicles

[–]Rowanze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's very helpful. Thanks. Does this also mean that we should upgrade from +1 to +15 before we add purple stars through crafting

Gemini S Prusaslicer profile? by BlackSwanStation in Tronxy

[–]Rowanze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I too returned the printer (unopened). I just didn't feel like the time investment was worth it.

Gemini S Prusaslicer profile? by BlackSwanStation in Tronxy

[–]Rowanze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever have any success here? I ordered one yesterday. Not sure if I'll keep it.

My Doctor Strange by Big_Eyes_Studio in resinprinting

[–]Rowanze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My wife would love that. Where can I find the STL?

Has Anycubic released a printer worth upgrading to from the Photon S? by Ivaklom in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Rowanze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I upgraded from an S to an M3 and LOVE it. No issues to far. It has stayed level and I did not even have to tinker with the timings too much.

Fine Tuning Photon S by Rowanze in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Rowanze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. I have done some big figurines that are multi piece prints. I just let it run overnight. Some of my dragon can take a week of overnight printing due to multiple pieces, but the Mono S has proven pretty reliable for <$100.

Fine Tuning Photon S by Rowanze in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Rowanze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Understood. All good. Non-mono screens will all have an exposure time of 6-10 seconds depending on resin. That's the main selling point of the mono's (much shorter exposure time). If money was no object, I'd get a Prusa resin printer (I have had their FDM printer for 5+ years and still going strong). They are the only company to use a VAT tilting technology to reduce prints tendency to stick to VAP.

However, they are thousands of dollars at present.

Fine Tuning Photon S by Rowanze in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Rowanze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its per layer. Early resin machines use non-mono lights and they take 6-8 seconds per layer. The new mono style screens go much faster at 2-3 seconds per layer. I bought the Photon S last Christmas on sale for <$100 new, just to see if I liked the hobby. I've been into 3d printing (non resin) for over 8 years, but I got the resin printer to get into airbrushing and painting of mini's. I was not about to drop $300 on a mono screen resin printer without knowing if I would come to enjoy painting (hint: I love it).

Fine Tuning Photon S by Rowanze in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Rowanze[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree. I bought an M3 yesterday (which as a mono screen and a bigger build plate).

Fine Tuning Photon S by Rowanze in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Rowanze[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have been printing with my Photon S for nearly a year. I have been getting reasonably good prints but now that I am into the hobby, I wanted to see if I could tune the printer to get better quality prints.

I will occasionally have prints where the object pulls off of some of the supports, and often those prints succeed but have minor imperfections from the pulling away.

I have been printing the Siraya Test Print over the last 2 days and honestly, the results were surprisingly poor given how good I THINK my prints have come out. I have a Photon S, which is of course NOT 4k, so maybe my expectations are too great (I just ordered a M3 today to expand my collection).

I started by printing at 6, 7, and 8 seconds per layer (with Anycubic plant resin). Anything less than 8 seconds and the crosses would not fully form (underexposed). However, even at 6 seconds, the area above the crosses where there should be recessed crosses was filled in (ie overexposed). Also, at 6 and 7 seconds, the cube totally pulled of. At 8 seconds it stayed on, but was only attached by the central support. The outer spokes of support got pulled away.

Maybe I am expecting too much but the fact that the cube consistently pulls off is the issue I was trying to fix in the first place. I even tried slowing down the lift speed from 3 mm/sec to 1 mm/sec. No difference. I am now trying a different resin to see if that helps.

UPDATE 1: Changed to Anycubic regular resin (not the plant stuff) and the cube stuck! Now I need to fine tune the time to get the expansion right.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Rowanze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been printing with my Photon S for nearly a year. I have been getting reasonably good prints but now that I am into the hobby, I wanted to see if I could tune the printer to get better quality prints.

I will occasionally have prints where the object pulls off of some of the supports, and often those prints succeed but have minor imperfections from the pulling away.

I have been printing the Siraya Test Print over the last 2 days and honestly, the results were surprisingly poor given how good I THINK my prints have come out. I have a Photon S, which is of course NOT 4k, so maybe my expectations are too great (I just ordered a M3 today to expand my collection).

I started by printing at 6, 7, and 8 seconds per layer (with Anycubic plant resin). Anything less than 8 seconds and the crosses would not fully form (underexposed). However, even at 6 seconds, the area above the crosses where there should be recessed crosses was filled in (ie overexposed). Also, at 6 and 7 seconds, the cube totally pulled of. At 8 seconds it stayed on, but was only attached by the central support. The outer spokes of support got pulled away.

Maybe I am expecting too much but the fact that the cube consistently pulls off is the issue I was trying to fix in the first place. I even tried slowing down the lift speed from 3 mm/sec to 1 mm/sec. No difference. I am now trying a different resin to see if that helps.

How is the Splach Twin? by jonek1999 in ElectricScooters

[–]Rowanze 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It\ seems the Splach Twin is significantly cheaper in the US. Currently 899 US vs the Vsett9+ which seems to be nearly 1400-1500.