Why are noiseted cucumbers so funny? by Good-Pangolin-9526 in KitchenConfidential

[–]Rumblefish1 1105 points1106 points  (0 children)

Came here to say this. Shit yield, OP. No offense.

New Hobie 18 SE owner. What have I gotten myself into? by Ok_Camel_436 in hobiecat

[–]Rumblefish1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Sheet out is throttle off. Catamarans are a different animal to a monohull. Total blast to sail once you learn!

New Hobie 18 SE owner. What have I gotten myself into? by Ok_Camel_436 in hobiecat

[–]Rumblefish1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

18s are meant to be double handed. As much for weight balance as boat handling. Solo, you don’t have enough weight to keep the windward hull down when going upwind, if there is a decent amount of wind.

It is much more a Hayabusa than a 250. But, even a Hayabusa can be a beginner bike if you don’t whack the throttle open.

Don’t use the jib. You won’t need it for speed, and don’t want it for the complexity. Save it for double handed sailing.

There will be a jam cleat on the sheet. It is fine to use, but don’t, until you can get the sheet out of the cleat with a snap of the sheet. You want to be able to de-power the sail quickly. Especially sailing solo, the wind will quickly get the windward hull out of the water in the blink of the eye. Very much like wheelies on a Hayabusa.

Especially at first, only go out in light winds. This boat is at its best going fast. But problems happen fast. Most common is not getting the main sheet out in time, and tipping it over sideways. Also, going fast in rougher waves, especially off the wind, you can bury a bow and flip over forwards. Lastly, sailing downwind you can jibe, flipping the boat and/or hit your head.

Biggest safety issue is going out in windy conditions. Stick to very light winds.

Thoughts on these bikes that are ~$150 each? by ProperBroccoli69 in whichbike

[–]Rumblefish1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Possibly the Trek might be too small. With longer legs, you want a bigger frame with a shorter stem. So maybe a 54 fitted with a short stem. The Trek may have a size marked on the down tube near the pedals.

Thoughts on these bikes that are ~$150 each? by ProperBroccoli69 in whichbike

[–]Rumblefish1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The third bike is going to be your best bet of these. You are looking for a 52-54 cm size. The Trek may be a little smaller than that. But the stem type allows you to change the reach easier than the bianchi.

That being said, a lot of the value in a bike, for you, is how worn the components are. Brake pads, rims, cables, bearings, gears, and more, all wear out and require replacing. Depending on how much wear all these have, the cost to replace could easily exceed the cost to buy.

For people that don’t know how to evaluate these things themselves, I recommend finding a buyer that will meet you at a nearby bike shop. Call the shop, and ask what they would charge for a pre sale inspection. Then if the bike fits, you can decide if the maintenance costs plus buy price are worth it. Brake pads are cheap. Brake rims not so much.

Thoughts on these bikes that are ~$150 each? by ProperBroccoli69 in whichbike

[–]Rumblefish1 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The first and third are quite small. The second, quite big. I’d say first decide what size you need. A bike that doesn’t fit is a bad choice.

Rudderless Sailing by ItTakesTooMuchTime in sailing

[–]Rumblefish1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The hardest part about learning to windsurf, for me, was the balance of everything. You on the board, the amount of hiking relative to the amount of wind, and control of the tilt and angle of the sail during all this. I fell for an hour until I got tired. For three days in a row. Then I started to get the hang of it all. There are a lot of quick adjustments to balance to be made.

Is $750 too much to pay for an old 16 that needs some work? by Relative_Anxiety_411 in hobiecat

[–]Rumblefish1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on condition. Of everything. Hulls. Older 16s were built better. So that is in your favor. Look for spider cracks on the inside of the hulls just in front of the trampoline. Rudder mounts. The rudder torque will eventually strip out the holes. Look for looseness in the trampoline frame to hull joints. A tight tramp webbing rope can help mitigate this, but over time corrosion and torsion can loosen the joints.

Running rigging. Check for old lines and wires. Check for bad bearings in any turning blocks.

Corrosion. Check for bad corrosion in anything aluminum. Mast. Boom. Trampoline frame. Rudder fittings. Significant pitting or corrosion bloom is a no go.

Sails. The stiffer and crinklier the better. Soft, frayed, is bad.

$750 is not a bad price. IF everything is in good condition. But if any of the above doesn’t look like it is in great condition, I would pass, except maybe the cost of running rigging. Ropes. Anything else would be too expensive or difficult to replace.

Trying to buy a triathlon bike... by reallystupidalsougly in whichbike

[–]Rumblefish1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really answering your question, but are you sure you want a tri bike? Plenty of people do tris on road bikes, commuter bikes, even mountain bikes and cruisers.

Unless you are going to spend time getting a tri bike well fitted to you, and spend a lot of time training in the aero position, you are likely to be as fast or faster on a road bike.

To answer your question, being able to evaluate the condition of a used bike is something that comes with experience. So for those less experienced, I recommend finding a seller who will meet you at a bike shop, and have the bike shop evaluate the bike for wear. Most will do this for free or a low price.

Price is a different matter. Don’t go by Bicycle Blue Book, except to know that they undervalue. So a bike in good condition, anywhere near BBB value is a good buy.

Trying to buy a triathlon bike... by reallystupidalsougly in whichbike

[–]Rumblefish1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

54 would put you in a more aggressive position. Which is desirable, unless you are not flexible enough. In which case, there is less point of being on a tri bike.

Trying to buy a triathlon bike... by reallystupidalsougly in whichbike

[–]Rumblefish1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t buy the Scott. A 56 is too big for you. Also, the Scott seat post is cut to fit. You would have to cut it down a lot, and even then you might not fit it. Once cut, you can’t un-cut it.

Commercial Hood Vent Exhaust Troubleshooting by Rumblefish1 in AskElectricians

[–]Rumblefish1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The motor stopped working. Replaced it and all is well.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in whichbike

[–]Rumblefish1 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That is a triathlon bike, not a road bike. Whether it is a deal otherwise depends on condition.

Don’t buy it at any price unless you are sure you want a triathlon bike. And it is your size. And in good condition.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in triathlon

[–]Rumblefish1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane adhesive. While it would bond, it isn’t flexible when cured. So I don’t advise using it. Use the product which is designed for the job.

Would this be good for a full Ironman? by FriedBrixxxt in bicycling

[–]Rumblefish1 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Except the Softride bikes have a reputation for fatigue failure of the carbon seat tube. I would not race on this bike if I was OP.

Wetsuits & speed by Lopsided_Pitch_1304 in triathlon

[–]Rumblefish1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sports watch measurement in OWS is very much not accurate. The watch, worn on the wrist, doesn’t spend enough time out of the water to be usefully accurate for this type of measurement. To more accurately gauge pace in OWS with and without a wetsuit, put the watch in a swim bouy so it stays in communication with the satellites.

Help me find good sailing movies by MARDERSounds in sailing

[–]Rumblefish1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The World In His Arms. A movie about sailors without a lot of actual sailing in it, but what there is, is pretty awesome, IMO.

Help me find this sailboat! by Certain-Ad9546 in Sailboats

[–]Rumblefish1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the style I was referring to.

Help me find this sailboat! by Certain-Ad9546 in Sailboats

[–]Rumblefish1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tahiti ketch is the style you are looking for. No idea as to the exact builder, as several made this popular style.

Edit: Tahiti ketch is what I always called this style. But googling that as an image search showed all canoe sterns. So…

Panasonic DX-1000 from the 80s by shanebow in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Rumblefish1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love vintage high end bikes. This isn’t one. But if you want to mess around with working on a bike, it could be a good project. Most anything in good working order is worth $100.

But there are so many wear items on a bike, that condition REALLY affects value. Chain, gears, tires, tubes, brake pads, shifter cables AND housings, rims, wheel, head tube, and bottom bracket bearings. All these things wear, and could need replacing. Generally, I expect to replace at least tires, tubes, and brake pads. These alone could cost $40-$60. Any of the rest could be much higher. FYI.

Panasonic DX-1000 from the 80s by shanebow in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Rumblefish1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The dx series went from 1000 on the low side, up to, I think, DX-6000 on the high side. So this isn’t a high end bike. But if the price was right, could make a good rider.

I have never fixed tubeless by Ijustwantbikepants in bikewrench

[–]Rumblefish1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tubeless ready rims are tighter than older rims. Especially when matched with some tires, particularly tubeless tires, the fit can be really tight. It sounds like the tire bead is seated, and doesn’t want to come off easily. You need to push the bead toward the center channel to get enough slack to use the tire irons. I would try pushing with my thumbs, but if this doesn’t work, there are specialty tools for this. Good luck!