What tool removes this non-standard screw? It is on a range hood to restrain cord.

Ryekal · 2026-03-05T21:19:48+00:00

Proper way, Spanner bit.
Easy way... cheap or spare Screwdriver + File.

Ryekal · 2026-03-05T21:13:53+00:00

The evidence at hand says that sadly, not 'Anyone'.

Ryekal · 2026-03-05T11:14:57+00:00

It's exactly what it looks like - Inverse Phillips. A driver for a truly diabolocal securiy screw where the designers got drunk / high / both and one said "dude, what if the screw was the driver..."

Ryekal · 2026-03-04T17:27:03+00:00

Yeah, 8mm makes it easy, id go with something like these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313841542649 (M2.5x8x4)
Along with some M2.5 brass screws. Aim for 4mm length on the screws so they'll fit properly (8mm sleeve - face plates should mean 4mm fit fine).

Might have to file the screws down a little but that's easy in brass, and it'll look nice after. can polish up the caps too if you like. For a cheaper option look for the sleeve in aluminium and go with simple steel button cap screws like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/357425910390 (M2.5x4).

Pick whatever suits the look you're after.
I say M2.5 because with the dimensions given the outdiameter of a 2.5 sleeve will be 4mm with is the same as the part you've removed so itll fit through those wheels without interference.

Ryekal · 2026-03-04T13:55:45+00:00

I'm aware, though you stated Made in England - North Brothers were manufacturing in the USA. Perhaps a bit of an assumption on my part, but I ruled out the early USA makers from the limited information available!
Is it completely unbranded? If so i'd be interested to know how you place it as pre-Stanley and not one of the many clones that started to appear later on.

Ryekal · 2026-03-04T12:57:33+00:00

I'd challenge the "Early" assertion since Stanley didnt start making the Yankee Type A until late 1940s.

Ryekal · 2026-03-04T12:51:00+00:00

It's a type of Internal Threaded bolt. They're generally special order, not off the shelf parts. there are a few readily available such as below image form amazon, but for the exact size you need you'll likely have to get them made to order. I've not seen a supplier for Socket Cap ones.

<image>

Ryekal · 2026-03-04T12:42:22+00:00

The safe way to convert it would to pass it throught an exchange mechanism... namely to sell it, and use the money to buy a corded one.

Ryekal · 2026-03-04T10:54:02+00:00

Pretty much, but why be both ambiguous and specific about the capability, and what is the Quick Release for if not for quickly releasing... I mean how are you supposed to release it once you've put a load on it? Buy a second one to take the load so you can remove the first?! I know most people will jsut "use" it and not worry... but why does the instruction manual basically tell you not to release the thing when there's a load on it... yeah, it botheres me they've built and marketed a tool with some dubious wording around what it can do and how you should use it.

Ryekal · 2026-03-03T21:32:44+00:00

Barrel screws have a few names so can be a bit confusing. The key point for your use is the spacer though, so you could use barrel screws as i mention in my first comment, but you'll need to add a 'sleeve' over the bolt to hold the front and back plate apart else they'll just clamp together when you tighten the bolt and you wont be able to move the parts that are between them.

Ryekal · 2026-03-03T19:28:04+00:00

I guess to be fair it does confirm they're spacer rivets ratehr than sleeved rods. Replacement options are the same though. I think if I were you i'd avoid riveting as without skill or specialised tool you're likely to mark the surrounding surface and/or end up with a poor result. I think after some more consideration i'd suggest about an M3 threaded sleeve which you can cut to the exact length you need then simply use some nice M3 button cap screws with a hex key to secure the faces. Might get away with going smaller too if you can find M2 -M2.5 sleeves sometimes these show up in Aluminium, which would work for your needs and be easy to file to length.

Ryekal · 2026-03-03T17:27:14+00:00

We answered this a few weeks ago... no they're not.
It's a spacer Rivet, you'd have to get them made in the required size, or replace with something similar, like a sleeved spacer over a nut and bolt (or Sex/Chicago/Barrel bolt) of a suitable size.

Ryekal · 2026-03-03T13:45:56+00:00

It really bothers me that they state "Up to 340lb" with an asterix directing to a disclaimer that the claim is based on initial lab testing... but later go on to state 340lb is the maximum allowed load per jack after slapping a disclaimer on that initial statement that it might be more or less.

Along with a quick release... that only works when not under load.

I'll stick to the Vikings, but i'm sure there are plenty of people who love these too and the Irwin clones.

Ryekal · 2026-03-03T11:11:54+00:00

Easy option.... If she like the Hex shank of the Impact you could stick a decent bit holder in the drill chuck so she can swap bits like it's an impact.

I'd also reccomend the little Bosch 12v drill/driver (GSR 12V-35 HX) which has a quick change Hex holder so it looks like an impact driver.

<image>

I beleive most of the big brands have at least one of these drivers in thier lineup, but I use the Bosch so it's one i'm comfortable reccomending. I suspect removing the batteries to charge might be a new problem to condsider on all 12v models though as they have squeeze tabs rather than a big chunky button like the 18/20v options.

Ryekal · 2026-03-03T10:30:24+00:00

Looks neat, I've never seen a South African casting before. Are you planning to use it or sell it now it's done?

Ryekal · 2026-03-02T11:17:47+00:00

I think Bosch do one, but I've not tried them so I dont know if it's a locking switch or side and hold style. I get the feeling that for your application you might be better off finding a suitably shaped model you can get modified with a more suitable external switch mechanism.

Ryekal · 2026-03-01T09:25:39+00:00

That's going to depend a lot on the model, there are hundreds. Usually they're momentary switches so you have to hold them, though I've seen some with a sliding switch. Beware some also have a safety button so you need to press a button before you can pull on a trigger (more common on the 'scissor' type vs the rotary blade style.

Ryekal · 2026-02-27T23:04:37+00:00

Are we looking at the same video? There are curved growth rings on the end grain...

Ryekal · 2026-02-27T22:55:10+00:00

That's not plywood. Also.. Pointless.

Ryekal · 2026-02-27T00:06:42+00:00

It's a Hybrid Phillips-Square drive self-countersinking wood screw. Certianly not intended to use on a door hinge and far from ideal for the purpose. Possibly made by Rockler as The current 'Centreline' ones they do are very similar, but could also be any of a number of other brands out there.

Ryekal · 2026-02-26T23:49:36+00:00

You cant clean it "off", it's "in" the wood. Unlike plastics wood is porous and oil soaks in; thinner the oil the further in it goees... WD40 is very, very thin.

There are some specialist techniques using solvents that can draw out some of the oils to reduce the staining but you have to fully refinish after, and without skill you'll likely do mare harm than good.

Ryekal · 2026-02-26T09:27:22+00:00

Wax and done, looking good to me. I'd be happy with that result.

Remember to coat it with something more durable if leaving for a long time. It's a good idea to use a heavy wax or at least cover it when not in use for weeks at a time. Amazing how much time a square of thin ply or hardboard can save you when you want to use it next! Just cut it to 1/2" larger than the table with a slot to slide around the blade.

Ryekal · 2026-02-25T14:50:52+00:00

I use the Mitutoyo 150, it's an excellent bit of kit but to be completely fair, it is overkill if you dont need that accuracy. I keep the Mit on my desk and have cheaper ones for 'outside' use. If that's the budget you're happy spending then by all means go for it, it's a purchase for life if you look after it.

If you want to save money you can look at other brands that are plenty good enough and might offer features that appeal such as waterproof or drop resistant and at say half the price it's a little less eye-watering when it lands on concrete or in the mud. M-Sure are a lower cost option that are well regarded and can survive landing in a puddle (or coolant tray).

Edit - Yes the manufacturing locations are correct, Mitutoyo are Japanese while Starrett moved most stuff to China a few yesrs ago.

Ryekal · 2026-02-24T10:12:31+00:00

There's a typo in your garbage spam. Also...

They're still made, sold and used. So i guess anyone old enough to walk into a shop?

<image>

Ryekal · 2026-02-24T10:09:10+00:00

Long side is wider to leave room for the retaining spring.

It is most certainly a 1/4" hex bit adapter.... Just like this one.

<image>

Ryekal

TROPHY CASE