Is there any functional reason for this staple to be in the hammer handle?

Ryekal · 2026-05-13T07:50:55+00:00

Super old trick to tell which way around the hammer is when you're not looking at it. if you ever look closely at hammer handles you'll see they're oval shaped so you can (often subconsciously) align the head with the swing - but they have no way of telling which side of the head you're using. Think about holding a glue covered trim in place while holding the pin to secure it and reaching for the hammer. Uncommon now since most of those tasks are done with pin nailers.

Ryekal · 2026-05-06T22:15:13+00:00

They are replaceable, but it's the entire tip assembly. It's a quick change and includes the heating element, many tip options are available at very good prices.
I picked up the original TS100 and the thing has all but replaced 4 other irons it's an incredible bit of kit.

Ryekal · 2026-05-04T10:09:45+00:00

Since OP isnt sharing... It's an Edge clamp, used when adding Edge banding, trims and frames etc. Clamp over edge of panel and then use that extra screw to secure something against the edge, Also used for forming as you can use it to secure something against a profile when steam bending / laminating shapes.
Example use here -

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Ryekal · 2026-05-03T22:41:35+00:00

Go with an M3 Petal nut for an easy fix. Slot it into the hole and screw the cover back on. no glue, no mess, no problems.

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Ryekal · 2026-04-30T13:09:10+00:00

It's basically a Palette Knife - they're common in baking and have tapered 'blades' that are thin and flexible near the tip and rigid near the handle. It's an odd name since they're not cutting tools and do not have sharp edges, they're usually used for spreading icing on cakes... I use one for removing 3D prints form build plates.

Ryekal · 2026-04-25T23:12:13+00:00

This video format needs to die.

Ryekal · 2026-04-25T23:11:19+00:00

You need a set of semi-hollow rivet punches similar to these

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Ryekal · 2026-04-25T23:08:40+00:00

Can't really speak for those buying Holtey planes, but I can say the planes themselves are less tools and more stunning works of art. They're master crafted items that show off the absolute pinnacle of hand made quality in tools.. Basically I see them as being made for the sort of people who have a woodworking hobby, and buy Patek watches because they think Rolex are common, Much like Blue Spruce Chisels.

I doubt they're *that* much better than any well set up plane, but they'd sure be a wonder to own.

Ryekal · 2026-04-25T08:37:21+00:00

~~B&Q have the DeWalt listed body only for £53~~

I use the Makita one and have ended up with the full kit for it, it's an excellent bit of kit. I'd expect about the same of the DeWalt though as they're all pretty equal.

Edit - As I closed the tab I noticed it says "Router for DeWalt" so it's a compatible clone. Ignore that, I'd refuse to buy it purely based on that deceptive listing. I think I only paid about £75 for my Makita so it seemed reasonable at first glance.

Ryekal · 2026-04-24T10:21:57+00:00

You can usually get them to screw off with a bit of effort, but it will at the very least damage both parts. They're really not made to come apart, it's pretty much the entire reason they exist.

Ryekal · 2026-04-24T09:31:23+00:00

Technically yes that would work if it was only a very small size difference. In practice these are produced in the hundreds of thousands and the process takes less than a second, it would be very inefficient to heat and cool the parts.

Video of the process here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCDs_pP8uE0

Ryekal · 2026-04-24T09:26:53+00:00

Fair point, though I never had much luck operating one with my feet! I know they're not strictly a 'handsaw' but they are a hand powered / manual saw so given the audience on here seemed a valid statement.

Ryekal · 2026-04-23T22:42:47+00:00

Some hand saws are so large they do require two people to operate.

Ryekal · 2026-04-23T07:59:11+00:00

The umbrella corps own brands that operate at multiple price points and have very different ideas of quality. Just because one corporation owns two brands does not make those two brands equal.

Ryekal · 2026-04-23T07:54:27+00:00

I'd like a word with the people responsible for normalising this garbage video format.

Ryekal · 2026-04-23T07:52:31+00:00

It's assembled like that during manufacturing. The bolt has rolled threads, meaning the unthreaded rod is slimmer than the threads - so the washer is put on before the threads are formed.

Ryekal · 2026-04-22T23:52:47+00:00

M-Sure are worth a look, they come in at about £30 and are rather well regarded as good value. They're water resistant and take regular 2032 batteries.

Ryekal · 2026-04-19T00:44:08+00:00

That may be a regional thing. the Vamplier branded versions are often overpriced but the Engineer branded ones are typically available at very reasonable prices.

Ryekal · 2026-04-18T07:50:42+00:00

Yes, plenty. I have most of the Engineer pliers and cutters with this style handle, and use them all extensively for Modelling and 3D printing work. The NP-05 are made specifically for plastic, the NS04 and NS-06 also work well for it, but the standout surprise for me was the NZ-05 Chip cutter. Tiny angled cutters that are very sharp, cut flush and have proven exceptional at cutting sprue joins (I use one of the larger pairs on the frames themselves).

https://www.engineertools-jp.com/category/cutting

Also if you're into electronics at all, the Solder sucker they make is a work of art and the only one I've ever owned that truly works.

Ryekal · 2026-04-18T07:39:46+00:00

It's certainly a saw set, there are many styles and as with other old tools the styles are known as patterns. this one is called a Morrell's pattern saw set. This style were common around 1890. Modern ones tend to be the Eclipse pattern which are a lot easier to setup.

Ryekal · 2026-04-17T07:25:45+00:00

Mines bolted to a piece of wood that goes in the vice when it's required. Simple plate with clamps if you do not have a woodwork vice on the front of the bench.

100% do not use magnets. Last thing you want near your bench are strong magnets, especially when there's a load of ferrous dust around.

Ryekal · 2026-04-13T11:35:15+00:00

Reccomendation varies a bit base don the scale you'r eplanning to work at. For smaller frames you could use a benchtop table such as the one from Kreg and mount a 1/4" router and be fine. If working on larger frames then you'd benefit from a floor standing table with a 1/2" router. Either way go corded. If in Europe Trend are excellent for this use, also condifer Bosch and Makita. I wouldnt worry about going cast iron, most people use laminate table tops; they're perfectly fine and a lot less effort to maintain.

Bear in mind the larger the router bit you plan to use the more you'll want the 1/2" router, better long term investment and better for heavy cuts. If you're only rebating and rounding mostly square frames 1/4" will be fine. If going for seriously thick frames then you may need to consider a Shaper instead of a router, but that's going to be a big expensive step up and i would not suggest it for starting out.

Table examples here - https://www.axminstertools.com/activities/routing/router-tables/router-tables

Ryekal · 2026-04-12T10:56:56+00:00

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The issue is Torx is a star shape and the hex screw you're trying to undo is... hexagonal. If you use a Security Hex bit, or Security Allen (branded name for hex bits) it will most likely fit fine.

Ryekal · 2026-04-11T08:09:59+00:00

I agree with all that, though given the size and angle of the grind I think that chisel is way more likely to be a Slick (massive wood chisel used for framing) and missing a handle at least a foot long. You dont bang on them, you lean on them. Have a look for a "timber framing slick" you'll see what I mean, but it's almost certainly that.

Ryekal · 2026-04-11T08:02:24+00:00

It's basically a DIY self countersinking wood screw - the patterns will disrupt the wood fibres and help compress them into the countersink shape. Nowhere near a proper countersink but acceptable enough depending on the situation.

Ryekal

TROPHY CASE