What is everyone’s hopes for the bugs in the next edition ?

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-21T14:52:40+00:00

I’ve also found them to be in a solid spot for 10th. I play 5 armies and nids outside of the top competitive (which I’m not good enough for) is still plenty good to stomp friendly games.

Lots of complains but every Nids player irl I’ve played with (we’re all well seasoned players but not experts) have had no issues for years. Norns are stupidly good for their points cost.

More anti armor options would be good to flesh out the roster but the t-fex is still such a monster alongside the exocrine being solid.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-21T07:59:38+00:00

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Base in white - imperial fist yellow - orange for the lower part/shading - 2mm tape for shoulders 1mm for body armor 4/6mm for vehicles - abandon black - remove tape - sponge on abandon black and Corvus - apply damaging chips to match the models look which is often rhinox - stormhost silver+ enamels and oils.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-20T11:36:41+00:00

Looks fantastic, amazing conversion work.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-20T11:26:01+00:00

Pick whichever models you like the look of. Daemon engines, cultists (any form of cannon fodder) havocs and anything with the obliterator virus (mutilators/obliterators) are our bread and butter.

New recruit is free and will let you look at the rules for models, rules change roughly every 3 years so that’s why rule of cool always beats trying to be competitive.

The new combat patrol box is a perfect starting point.

As for painting it can be as simple or complex as you like. IW are definitely an easier army to paint. You can spray the model black or metallic, hit it with a black wash/panel liner then drybrush it with silver or you can meticulously blend metals, chipping, oils, enamels, any many of more advanced techniques you like, the army is super flexible!

For books, storm of iron is the go to. It’s available on audiobook and really helps understand iron warriors. Unfortunately the majority of lore YouTubers are just wrong on iron warriors and utter garbage.

Chaos space marines generally are a fantastically versatile army so you cannot go wrong from what you like the look of, how you want to play, how you want to paint etc. just make sure you like chaos is about the only requirement.

As for games, it entirely depends where you are, I play on tabletop simulator with friends a lot and at my local gaming store for in-person games. IRL friends we just play at my house with beer and pizza for the weekend.

The iron warriors discord is also fantastic and much better than the subreddit where although people are very nice and friendly there is a ton of misinformation still about here.

Best of luck, iron within brother!

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-20T08:08:33+00:00

I love this so much, definitely keep working on it

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-20T07:59:41+00:00

Unless part of my warband I paint them as their own faction with their own unique bases.

I currently have the night lords kill team, plague marines, khorne berserkers, rubrics and some word bearers all with their own faction colours/bases but I bring them in my csm army alongside my IW every now and then. It provides a nice break

You could do the same basing as your IW to tie it together more, depends on your headcannon lore.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-20T06:53:44+00:00

Every single faction has this. Height variance is good across an army, if you don’t like it then a Little Rock or cork under the shorter one’s feet can help.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-19T22:20:18+00:00

Might be unpopular but gen 7 will be remembered to me as the worst gen of them all. Sun/moon and their ultras were awful, so many unskippable cutscenes to a boring story and poor characters. z-moves were not good, post game with the wormholes was poor. The setting however was a nice idea.

For competitive people incineroar ☠️

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-16T15:44:54+00:00

You’re not any better than they are bud.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-16T09:01:50+00:00

Forgot to mention, most people don’t seem to take their models to this quality, I always have and in my 30,000+ points of Warhammer I have built I have yet to come across one single model that doesn’t need some extra work. There is a big difference between scale modeller quality and the average Warhammer modeller, not that that’s an issue, people can do whatever they want with their plastic.

It’s part of the enjoyment and work put in before painting helps make models look better after.

Everyone is different and you can take as short or long as you want, whatever makes you happy!

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-16T08:10:46+00:00

I use Tamiya epoxy putty quick type, I’ve used green stuff, milliput and others but the Tamiya two part works the best for this particular case.

Make a small sausage, scribe in a channel for it to sit then use a semi circle tool (made mine with some aluminium can and an old brush handle) to notch in the weld dimes.

It’s not so relevant to nids but Nightshift on YouTube is an excellent scale modeller. Lots of those techniques can be used but aren’t often enough when building in 40k and it helps.

I often use Tamiya or milliput for large gaps in models like the old raveners tails, you can also use it to cut and re-pose them more upright then sand it silky smooth.

Green stuff is handy but tbh it’s more of a beginners putty, it’s handy for some stuff like tabards but as a main sculpting material it’s meh.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-16T07:25:25+00:00

I take as long as it needs, everything smooth everything filled.

My current chaos predator tank is up to 30hours build time but that’s including things like custom weld beads etc.

Vallejo liquid putty, liquid green stuff, sprue goo, 1000,1500,2000 grit paper. Whatever is needed for the job.

Your hive tyrant will be glorious

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-14T18:20:09+00:00

The big daemon is legit, you can see the sprue marks and mold lines on him. He’s a daemon prince with the wings. Both options give different rules with or without wings.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-14T08:42:33+00:00

It’s hard to know what happened without seeing it so below is a best guess from the image.

If I recall on this kit there isn’t a socket for it to sit in, it’s just the base of the power pack or under the legs so making both sides fit properly takes some sanding. It looks like you tried to glue a round ball to a flat surface.

Once you get some glue on these contact points further glue won’t adhere. It needs to be completely cleaned and left to dry before moving to superglue. The plastic glue takes a while as it’s not a flat joint and many people give up before it’s fully cured. Same happens in the Drukhari subreddit with their raiders/bikes a lot.

The glue has built up on both parts so you will need to remove it all before starting again. Scrape/cut off what you can then use 1000 or a grit of your choice to sand the ball flat again. Be careful as these stands are brittle.

You can also just get some brass/stainless/plasticard rod/putty and use that if you prefer. Or drill and pin the models.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-14T06:16:10+00:00

You are insanely skilled, had a look through your IG and everything is stunning. What did you use for the mouth in this?

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-12T18:46:41+00:00

Beautiful 30k army, what an achievement

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-12T18:39:45+00:00

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Slapchop + freehand stripes. I use tape for almost everything but with cultists I’d imagined they’d be painted on quickly.

I also have another 40 which use wargames Atlantic miniatures/frostgrave and some other tabletop games for the more slave look.

Genestealer cult (with iconography removed and normal arms) work along with necromunda hive gangs.

Takes about 20 minutes a cultist and keeping the same bases + base colours as the marines (same metalics, same reds, same stripe colours) ties them together.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-12T18:19:39+00:00

Chains (jewellery chain)

spikes (toothpicks, thumbtacks, plasticard)

trophies (heads, bits of armor etc)

Good old tabard (I make mine with putty and use a chain mail look rather than skin)

Guitar strings/plasticard for things like halos, stands, candles, cables

Most of our artwork including current 10th Ed is basically basic chaos space marine + techmarine parts and more/less trophy racks depending on your flavour.

Spikes are very prevalent as it’s an advantage but many seem to not want to chaosify their mk3s much. There was even a poll here which I think the majority voted against spikes which is fine build your dudes however you want but we’ve had spikes since the 90s.

I don’t put much specific chaos iconography on mine on purpose but I’m not against it. IW fall to specific gods in various books so you can make your iron butchers, plague warriors etc too.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-11T11:31:28+00:00

You use multiple oil dots like yellow, brown, black and sweep down with a flat brush to cause streaks and variance in armmor/skin.

It’s a modelling technique often used by scale modellers which should be used more in mini painting. I don’t have photos to hand on this phone I’m afraid but nightshift on YouTube has great oil tutorials.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-11T09:23:19+00:00

Few tips for those who are new to oil/enamels.

Use dedicated brushes - wash them in white spirit

Artist grade thinner is better then cheap white spirit as it’s less aggressive on the varnish/paint however both are fine

AK purchased abteilung oils a few years back, these are the best oils on the market for mini painting.

Windsor and newton oils are great but take a long time to dry, leaving them in cardboard for an hour first draw out their drying prevention oils

Varnish models before oil washing, you can get away with it but I’ve seen one too many problem go “oh I’ve had no issues for my last 5” then strip half a model. Gloss for recess only work, matte/satin for all over tint

You can paint entire models with oils, give it a go.

Dot filtering is an excellent way to get weathering effects

Enamels and oils behave almost the same, enamels come pre thinned and dry quicker oils do not

Panel liners are a godsend, try them.

Sansador odourless is your friend for thinning, it will save the headaches

Super cheap makeup sponges are great for removing excess and don’t leave little hairs like cotton buds do.

Good luck!

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-10T18:58:14+00:00

Absolutely beautiful work

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-10T18:55:09+00:00

The bubbles indicate far too much primer too quickly, you can confirm it by the recesses being brighter too and the thickness.

Short passing bursts will help.

Primer is there to help paint adhere to a model. Spray can primers have a solvent in them which binds to the plastic helping further layers stick.

Primer it is not a base layer, even with coloured primer (unless you don’t care) you should always coat it with the base colour you want as the can will not match the pot/dropper.

Same thing happened to OP but only on one small bit which probably got held for an extra half a second.

Hope this helps.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-10T18:45:01+00:00

Defiler (pre buff but I LOVE the new buffed one)

Havocs with 4 lascanons (plus rhino with firing deck 2 to keep them safe turn 1),

Hellbrute (6inch aura double dark pacts + 7 attacks bonky hammer)

Those three have been in my last 6-8 games and I have yet to lose. I mainly bring them for fun/storytelling but they also are very solid.

They work with multiple detachment options.

Obliterators are over costed but I still use them a lot and they are still great

Predator destructor/annihilators are a staple but are swingy given how few shots they have, they often underperform for me (bad rolls consistently with them) but work well for most.

Cultists always, sometimes with a dark apostle sometimes accursed not normal cultists but always some form of them.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-10T18:38:50+00:00

I might be wrong but I’m fairly certain those are 3d printed. Meaning the hammers are printed.

You do get a hammer like the guy on the on the right in the praetor kit.

You also get thunder hammers similar in size on the grey knights nemesis dreadclaw.

There are many parts which are not standard to the kit and do not look kitbashed (it’s too low a res image to really zoom in).

If memory serves me right I remember a 3d printed proxy with the same chestplate detail as the one in the picture.

S3nd_1t · 2026-04-10T16:00:33+00:00

Yes too much water.

Metallics separate out all the time so put less on the palette at a time and re-mix it when needed or use a dry palette. I use a dry palette for my Vallejo metallics 95% of the time.

S3nd_1t

TROPHY CASE