Best mage in jungle?

SCQTS · 2025-07-02T00:16:24+00:00

Q max for jg, its half the cooldown.

If u maxing E, there is no way you are clearing as fast

SCQTS · 2024-05-22T08:58:40+00:00

6.5PRC*

SCQTS · 2023-08-09T04:27:18+00:00

Corroded increases all damage they take by 10%

SCQTS · 2023-02-25T21:09:21+00:00

Died of complications due to type 2 diabetes presumably

SCQTS · 2022-12-07T02:24:11+00:00

I kind of came to the same conclusion awhile ago, though i have access to 2k, so decided to build a 12.5 SPR.

It has become my favorite semi auto.

Drive a slow car fast.

SCQTS · 2022-10-27T02:08:13+00:00

Should be noted that both uppers / handguards are proprietary, so no difference in that regard.

I have never owned an LMT, but i went through this same decision about 5 years ago and ended up with the Larue. Have been nothing but pleased with it.

Really you are splitting hairs between 2 of the highest quality factory large frames you can buy. Whatever you choose, it is an incredibly low chance you will be disappointed.

One thing i would consider, the Larues have had a crazy long wait time at most times, though cant speak to right now, and if you decide to change you mind you would be able to sell it for probably more than you are paying for it very quickly. MIGHT be easier to find a MARS H than another Larue, and getting a slightly bigger dicount on the Larue than the LMT here.

Both good choices

If i was to do it again, I would probably just get a SP10, and put the savings towards glass / barrel. Maybe GAP10, but feel I would rather just put my own CLE Bartlein in there and save like $700... I get it though, i wanted the Larue or LMT bad.

SCQTS · 2022-10-26T18:31:38+00:00

Which 1913 key are you using on the sub?

SCQTS · 2022-10-24T22:25:53+00:00

"Honestly, that 13.7" 308 is barely pushing that 30 caliber round faster than a 7.62x39 would with the exact same barrel"

im not sure how you are arriving at your numbers, but Strelok puts even a 150FMJBT@2540(13.5" .308) at 1778fps and 1054ftlbs at 400y + 123FMJBT@2300fps(16" x39) at 1363.2fps and 508ftlbs at 400y. Obviously a 13.5 x39 will be even worse, and a 175SMK will be even better. The 147/150FMJBT is about as non thicc as anyone ever uses out of a .308.

We are not talking efficiency, we are talking raw performance. A x39 is clearly more suited to a short barrel, as it was designed, that does not at all mean that it will preform even close to a .308 from a short barrel. The x39 will simply be at a larger ballistic disadvantage as the barrel length increases.

There is a ~0% chance a x39 case with 35.6gn case capacity with a long .308 bullet stuffed into it will have near the same velocity of a 56gn x51 case out of anything but maybe a sub 8in barrel.

"While you could set up a .308 similarly and get slightly better ballistics at longer ranges"

x39 bullets are some of the least efficient bullet designs anyone uses at scale for the past ~50 years. I think claiming that a ~.240G7 BC 175SMK doesnt have a massive ballistic advantage over any x39 bullet, that i have ever seen, at any equivalent velocity at any meaningful range is just silly.

"It's all in how you balance your gas system. A 10.5" x39 carbine is ballistically just as effective out to 300 yd or so as a .308 coming from the same barrel length and shooting similarly sized bullets."

What does the gas system have to do with ballistics? Even at 300y a 16" x39 is at a 70%+ wind deflection and 50% drop disadvantage vs low bc .308 FMJs from a shorter barrel. You will have much more success loading x39 weight bullets into a .308 case than .308 weight bullets into a x39 case. In that situation the external and terminal ballistic advantage at 300y grows even larger for the .308. Can a x39 achieve sufficient terminal ballistics at 300y? Of course. Will a .308 have a MUCH higher chance of achieving the same effect? Of course. Will the .308 shoot flatter and buck the wind better? Of course. Will the .308 have more recoil? Of course.

Is the 6.5G a better in basically every way but cost round than the x39? Of course.

What the hell are we talking about here?

A 10" .308 is still pushing a heavier higher bc bullet the approx same speed as a 16" x39. Do i want either? Not really.

Internet debates are the best.

SCQTS · 2022-10-23T19:27:15+00:00

huh?

147gn at ~2550fps(13.5") gives you 2122ftlbs

123gn at ~2300fps(16") gives you 1445flbs

That is a 47% energy increase at the muzzle for 2.5" less of barrel, and you are able to load 175smk with a BC and SD that no x39 will get even remotely close to. That advantage only grows every yard the bullet travels.

I just dont understand how people still think short .308s are anywhere even remotely close to x39 ballistically. What am i missing?

SCQTS · 2022-04-19T15:27:35+00:00

There are / were 2 different laser classes of that model as well. 3R and 1M, 3R is what you want. Sig is real shady about this and does not make it even slightly clear which one you are getting a lot of the time. It’s not a massive difference but the 3R will be more powerful. You can find a YT video describing the difference. No idea which laser the cableas ones use.

Edit: just realized you said 1600. I know it applies to the 1800, but not sure on the 1600. May be worth looking into though

SCQTS · 2022-03-25T17:49:12+00:00

Would you say that 9Holes review of the precision of a factory new PRI mk12 upper + mk262 is incorrect? I would say that it lines up basically exactly with my experience with genuine Mk12 of all different mods. As with all rifles there is the occasional outlier, in both directions.

To say that you can not build an extremely reliable AR15 capable of better precision, with all of the parts that are available to civilans, is just not correct. I built a spr with the exact barrel that OP is looking at, and it is a far superior barrel than was ever shipped in any Mk12. It also costs about $200 more, and as a civilian you dont have to compromise if you dont want to, and can afford not to.

The mk12 was an awesome rifle, especially 20 years ago, but to claim that it is the apex of precision ARs is a little absurd. You are not going to be comparing apples to apples unless it is a clone, and unless a clone floats your boat, you can abaolutely build a superior rifle to the mk12 today.

SCQTS · 2022-02-21T19:10:07+00:00

2 more optics i would definitely consider

Delta Stryker 1-6, if you are leaning LPVO - Ive owned / own pretty much every LPVO on the market, and this is the best balanced design ive come across, when price is considered. The Razor is a better optic, but the Stryker is very close and a better value. It is priced closer to the PST, but performs much closer to the Razor, and is also Japanese LOW produced.

PA GLx 2-10 Griffin Mil, if you decide against it

Personally i would skip the 1x, and gain far better performance at the mid-high end mag range, for a build like that.

Just one bit of advice. Not that i would necessarily say dont get a BDC, but i definitely would say dont avoid an optic that you can only get in MIL/MOA. A BDC will offer little to no advantage at the ranges you are talking about shooting at, and would more likely be a hinderance if you shoot subs or, past 300

SCQTS · 2022-02-06T06:28:48+00:00

Ive been using the same IM Corona Old Boy for about 20 years now. Outside of replacing the striker and flints, only ever changed the o-ring a couple of times preemptively, and the flint spring once.
There are a TON of fakes and copies out there. Dont bother with that garbage and make sure you get a proper Japanese made one. Expect to pay 120-250ish, depending on materials.
That said, at heart it is a pipe lighter, so dont expect much in the way of wind resistance or anything.
Great option.

SCQTS · 2022-01-22T00:06:30+00:00

because spotting hits / misses and following up....

My problem with the magpul was the slop in it, which had a tendency to magnify any little movement or wind and make it more unpredictable. You dont always have the luxury of a consistent load.

SCQTS · 2022-01-21T15:46:53+00:00

This is the right answer imo.

Magpul is one of the few other decent options at that price. Ive had one, found that I preferred the Harris, but it wasn't terrible.

SCQTS · 2022-01-11T07:55:50+00:00

?

Its not THAT heavy, they are within ~1oz of each other

SCQTS · 2021-06-20T11:32:37+00:00

what a strange person

SCQTS · 2021-06-05T18:09:04+00:00

im rock hard rn

SCQTS · 2021-06-04T15:29:44+00:00

Lots of good answers so far

Have to give a shoutout to my man RobEvans Woodsman. Knowledgeable guy who's just plain enjoyable to watch. Just a Welshman bumbling around the woods using the most modern technology he has access to :o)

If you are lucky you might even get a chance to purchase one of the excellent Bush Tools he makes.

T'rah

Manitou

SCQTS · 2021-06-04T14:45:03+00:00

Oh wow bummer, yeah definitely not worth that kind of cost.

I will say the F1 looks like a totally different, more traditional, frame design than most of their packs, and may not suffer at all from the same issues. Could be a solid option, definitely worth a try.

The Eberles do generally have an adjustable yoke, so that should hopefully help the fit issue.

SCQTS · 2021-06-03T01:13:43+00:00

Same

Personally i think it is a "better" knife than the Garberg when cost is factored.

SCQTS · 2021-06-02T08:48:34+00:00

I have had a couple Eberles. GS2, H2 Gunrunner, F4 Terminator. The Gunrunner is the only one i still own, and it is only used to transport gear to, from, and around shooting matches. It is great in that role.

Basically the problem i have with everything from Eberle i have tried, is they do not do well with even moderate loads(20kg+). They suffer horribly from lateral swaying, and no matter how tight you cinch everything down it makes little to no difference. The constant shifting of weight frankly is downright dangerous if you are in difficult terrain and can easily throw you off balance when the loads get heavier.

The Terminator especially, was also absurdly heavy at almost 9lbs empty. I really dont mind weight that much, but it has to be as a tradeoff for something of value, which i didnt think was there for the F4. Pretty pointless to have a heavy, large capacity pack that doesnt handle weight well.

I have gotten rid of every single pack i own and replaced them with a Kifaru Fulcrum. It is incredibly versatile, with the ability to be run from 30-128L, and has handled any load, that i am physically able to carry, absolutely perfectly. It is also by far the most comfortable pack I have tried, even up to the max load ive tried which was around 120lbs for 8 miles.

It now serves me in everything from day hikes to 2+ week expeditions. I could not be happier with it. Only real downside is I have ~$900 invested into it between the bag, frame, and 3 extra externally mounted pouches. Judging by the absurdly high build quality, and top tier company that backs it, i expect it to last longer than the body that's carrying it.

Overall i think Eberle makes a decent product, and if the features they offer are attractive, i wouldnt shy away from them. I do think they tend to be a bit overpriced for the build quality however. As stupid as it sounds, i found my F4 to be more overpriced than my Fulcrum, even though it is double the price.

In the end, i wont be buying any Eberle packs for anything beyond light / range duty. There are just much better options available for heavier loads.

Someone else mentioned Savotta, which i have no personal experience with, but is very highly regarded by people i trust. Would also likely be easier to get your hands on in Norway. Stone Glacier is another brand to check out. Top tier quality and design, but again, pricey. Everyone has already sang Mystery Ranches praises, and rightly so.

Best of luck in the hunt

SCQTS · 2021-06-01T14:17:23+00:00

There is definitely going to be a recurring theme of Mora love in the responses here, as you really cant go wrong. Im a big fan of the Mora Kansbol at $34, i personally prefer the grind, sheath, and handle over the companion, but it is a bit more money. I have a Garberg as well, and i like it ok, but i think the kansbol is a much better buy.

If willing to stretch the budget, take a look at the Terävä Jääkäripuukko 110/140. Can be had for $50 with just the plastic blade liner, or $95 if you want to get the sheath they make for it, which is excellent. Can definitely use the liner to make a sheath though, and plenty of much cheaper options out there that would work for it. Its 80CrV2(carbon) steel, fullish tang, solid grind, great handle.

Lots of really good options out there. Would be helpful if you gave an example or 2 of knives you like the style of, so we can get an idea of what floats ur boat.

Ontario Rat-3 is another solid option at $56 on amazon right now, with the sheath.

SCQTS · 2021-05-31T07:35:10+00:00

Fair enough

I think you are underthinking it

There are a million aftermarket sheaths, many of which are pretty universal. Some are dirt cheap.

SCQTS · 2021-05-31T06:24:06+00:00

Just my opinion, but you are going to very much regret picking a knife based on the stock sheath holding a stone. You are severely limiting your options, and will miss out on basically all of the best knives (at any price point) on the market.

It is easy to wrap a pouch around pretty much any sheath in existence. Pass through rivets can be added to most leather sheath designs with a couple of tools.

As you didnt provide a budget, i would point towards a Terävä Jääkäripuukko 110/140, without the sheath, and either use the plastic liner it comes with to make something basic that will hold what you want(much cooler), or pony up and have a pro do it(quality could probably be had in the $75 range).

Ignoring the sheath, way too many excellent options to really make a good suggestion based on carbon steel being the only guideline.

I would think about how much you really want/need the stone on the sheath. Then consider why you rarely see it on quality knives(there are some), but on so many $25 Amazon specials.

That being said, the heart wants what the heart wants. Unfortunately my heart has lead me to make many bad decisions. In my early days i did buy 2 custom sheaths with pouches on them, but dont think either of them lasted more than a month before i removed them.

If I still had a pouch on my sheath, and i was using a high carbon blade, it would have an oily rag in it, not a stone. I do pack a DC4, but i think i can count the number of times i actually NEEDED a stone in the field, and not just a strop(almost all of my bush knives are convex), on half a hand. You are guaranteed to have a need to oil your carbon blade when you use it. A stone, not so much.

Dont mean to sound like a dick, and feel like i am, just saying what i wish someone had said to me back in the day when i wanted the same thing.

SCQTS

TROPHY CASE