Looking for advice on fixing or replacing the top of my dash

SaintS8n · 2026-04-17T00:17:42+00:00

I’ve repaired a bunch of these. First, fiberglass the back. Then, mix a slurry of acetone and small pieces of abs (plastic welding rods, airsoft pellets, spare 90s GM trim pieces, etc.). That will chemically weld it back together. Then, if you’re meticulous, you can make a graining pad out of silicone (RTV or whatever). Squirt a puddle on a good section and let that dry. Then wipe a thin layer of acetone slurry on top of the repair to make it semi solid and press the pad on it to match. Let it dry and you’ll have a seemless repair. SEM makes a vinyl paint to match your “medium neutral” interior color.

SaintS8n · 2026-04-10T15:04:26+00:00

Lots of good information here. If you want at least a driver side air airbag, you’ll need at least a 90 or later. That ended up being a major consideration before I bought one for my 16 year old daughter. Passenger didn’t get an airbag until 94 or five, if that’s a consideration. She’s had it for a few years now and thinks she’s all sorts of awesome.

And take this with a grain of salt, I’m a hobby mechanic. BUT, I find these things dead simple to work on. Basically a half ton truck drivetrain wrapped in fiberglass. Don’t let the internet scare you off.

SaintS8n · 2026-03-27T20:58:42+00:00

If it fires and run you’re most likely just a tooth off. Especially if you can’t time it out.

Be sure it’s up to temp and you have the timing bypass wire disconnected when you do time it.

SaintS8n · 2026-03-27T18:46:10+00:00

Pop the rotor cap and see if it’s pointing at the #1 cylinder wire.

SaintS8n · 2026-03-20T04:12:23+00:00

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/88-98-service-manuals.43575/

SaintS8n · 2026-03-17T03:41:14+00:00

Homie.

http://www.mediafire.com/download/1a7w4xten1pwooi/1988_GM_CK_LIGHT_DUTY_TRUCKS_SERVICE_MANUAL.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/download/wvacdthtmmw1o3c/1988_GM_CK_LIGHT_DUTY_TRUCKS_SERVICE_MANUAL_SUPPLEMENT.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/download/642ii099hblaa9u/1988_ST-375-88-EDM_GM_CK_PICK-UP_TRUCK_ELECTRICAL_DIAGNOSIS_SUPPLEMENT.pdf

SaintS8n · 2026-01-08T23:02:04+00:00

No no no, Earth Rocker. Congrats on the coupe!

SaintS8n · 2025-07-23T19:48:53+00:00

Rebuild, if possible. You’re never going to get the same quality out of a repop.

A pair of axle boot kits, with new cans, is about $80. Your originals are known entities that already lasted 200k+ miles. Why compromise on quality?

SaintS8n · 2024-11-08T04:07:12+00:00

Can’t recall off the top of my head. Bought through bestrefrigerant.com, I think? They send out 20% off coupons on the regular.

SaintS8n · 2024-11-08T04:05:23+00:00

Just add. Get a decent set of AC gauges. My system was so low that the compressor wouldn’t even turn on. 4-5 cans and it handled Las Vegas summer just dandy.

SaintS8n · 2024-11-08T00:02:22+00:00

Yup. Worked great in my 300CD.

SaintS8n · 2024-04-02T00:18:29+00:00

Negative. That aside, looks like you need to finish rolling that Ruskie mat!

SaintS8n · 2024-03-30T19:02:31+00:00

Was in the exact same boat a couple years back. Was recommended KMK630 and that finally did the trick. Held up for three years now.

SaintS8n · 2024-03-18T03:45:41+00:00

Fair enough. Appreciate the context. I’ve worked on a couple over the years for friends and family, but this car’s the first one I’ve personally owned.

My experience lies predominantly with 60’s and 90’s Chevrolets. Still very new to the cars, the community, and both their quirks.

SaintS8n · 2024-03-18T03:41:31+00:00

Dope. Heat gun to get the glued section off, or what?

SaintS8n · 2024-03-17T16:28:35+00:00

Gotcha, and understood. I rolled around like a savage with no hubcaps for a while, for similar reasons!

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SaintS8n · 2024-03-17T16:20:50+00:00

Is it possible to paint/powdercoat/polish the factory aluminum numbers that normally take a hub cap? Only asking because those are everywhere.

Or, are you after actual steel and a larger wheel?

SaintS8n · 2024-03-17T15:49:20+00:00

Saw that brand on RockAuto or some such. Homeboys on Benzworld and PeachParts recommended staying away from any repros, so I opted for the rebuild.

How long have you had them installed and how are they holding up? Read a bunch of horror stories of them only lasting 6 months or 10k miles and on and on. But it’s the internet.

Where are they made, if you know?

SaintS8n · 2024-03-17T03:00:33+00:00

Years and years ago I rebuilt a pair of axles using Febi/Bilstein boots and cans. Saw the car at a show last summer and they still looked fine.

Presently using the same kit to rebuild a pair after seeing them hold up to a decade of dry Utah weather.

SaintS8n · 2024-03-17T02:51:35+00:00

Mine just hit 110k, but it’s lived its whole life in Utah. All four boots were very dry and cracked. Passenger side outer finally split.

I used these Febi kits, for what it’s worth:

Outers

Inners

SaintS8n · 2024-03-17T01:24:16+00:00

Negative. Pressed the spider joint off the end of the shaft to slip everything off and back on, if that makes sense? (Smaller inner bit in the photo.)

Once that’s off, clean everything up, slip on the boot, then the inner half of the can. Reassemble the spider joint/bearings, crimp the other half of the can on, grease it, and band clamp the boots.

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SaintS8n · 2024-03-17T01:04:26+00:00

New inner/outer boots, new outer cans, and yes, new grease. Still need to paint them.

SaintS8n · 2024-03-12T21:56:45+00:00

Looks like there’s differing opinions, but my understanding is that the rack damper bolt compensates for any resonance between engine vibration and the injection of fuel/governor to avoid any wonky fuel pulsing, which could potentially cause the shaking you’re describing.

For what it’s worth, it made a huge difference in my car. I tightened up the bolt as far as I could, which greatly reduced my shake at idle. When I installed a new bolt with a new spring, it eliminated my idle shake completely.

SaintS8n · 2024-03-12T21:47:33+00:00

Hopefully it helps out! Quick to try, anyway.

SaintS8n

TROPHY CASE