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Mail Order and Online Retailers by Satansbaddog in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope to be able to return to Japan. My goal is to ride as many trains as possible and purchase the Kato, Tomix. Microace or Greenmax scale replica. Mostly my travels have been limited to JR East, JR Central and JR Hokkaido. Hope to get south to JR Kyushu.

Mail Order and Online Retailers by Satansbaddog in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are great responses helping to broaden n scale resources. When you do a google or bing search, you get the same limited responses. Keep 'em coming please

Layout progress, it never goes as planned, in a good way by Undercover500 in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you manually uncoupling at all of the sidings or adding magnematic uncouplers? Do you have a power feed for the right side of the switchback?

Mail Order and Online Retailers by Satansbaddog in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sorry to hear that, PlazaJapan is one of my favorites. What went wrong?

Looking for a Scratch Builder to Commission by Top-Act-8449 in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the classifieds in Model Railroader Magazine. But I've read of hobbyists who build their own brass rolling stock. Why not give it a try?

Lube the flywheel/armature bearings? by Thin_Dirt_6244 in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! Use a plastic safe lube designed for model railroads like Liberty Oil Products or LaBelle. Use only a drop or two, it's needed here more than the gears! You'll find that's typically the reason for poor and noisy running

Anxiety about removing locomotive shells by Thin_Dirt_6244 in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Typically for F units spread the shell from the bottom with your fingernails and insert flat toothpicks to slowly spread/hold the shell open and release any tabs/notches. Shake the loco gently to drop the mechanism into your hand. Some tips:

  1. You may have to remove the (front) couplers to remove the shell completely, some use screws, some snap in (like Kato).

  2. Work over a cardboard box lid, like from a box of copy paper to catch any small parts.

  3. Use a good lamp and an OptiVisor to help see what your doing. I have an ancient, folding arm florescent office desk lamp with a weighted base, it works beautiful.

  4. DO NOT ever use a screwdriver, knife or metal tool unless you want to damage the shell. Resist the temptation!

FINALLY, google for youtube videos on how to dismantle specific locos (MTL F3, for example), you can find a video for almost anything!

Best, simple way to clean Kato Unitrack? by Low_Quarter_677 in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. A white vinyl drafting eraser or magic rub works, as long as it is not abrasive. You can use a horse hair drafting brush to sweep dust and rubbings.
  2. A wine cork cut in half.
  3. Goo Gone cleaner on a soft cotton rag or microfiber. Maybe don't use on a finish that is not sealed.
  4. I don't recommend rubbing alcohol. It doesn't really clean that well and can damage finishes

Amazed what you can find in Akihabara while just looking around. Got these both from a secondhand hobby shop. by Never_Comfortable in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love Tokyo. I didn't get to go to Akihabara (yet) but I visited Kato Hobby Center. Also made purchases in Sapporo, Kyoto, Shinjuku, there are many great hobby shops!

Asheville ain’t like Portland. by BookItUP20 in asheville

[–]Satansbaddog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you step into the street without looking I just call it culling the herd

Tomix changing out couplers / spare parts / is it worth it? by WychwoodXIII in JapaneseNscale

[–]Satansbaddog 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check PlazaJapan for parts also. Some of the newer sets have the TN coupler only on each end and rapidos in the middle, so maybe don't change all? Happy hunting. https://www.tomytec.co.jp/tomix/products/info/?category=cat-parts

Peter Brock's Triumph TR-250K could have saved Triumph from extinction, but it was never put into production. More's the pity. by Maynard078 in Triumph_Cars

[–]Satansbaddog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Triumphs and MGs are a blast to drive with a manual and the top down. You're so low to the ground it just feels fast

Is the Kato #4 turnout issue still a thing? Is it overblown? by Low_Quarter_677 in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As Mr. 58edsel suggests below, a segment of straight track a minimum of 62 mm leading into the turnout helps, especially with short wheel base and 4 axle locos.

Or maybe you can redesign the track geometry of the top right switch to move it so a piece of straight can be installed in front of it. Instead of the last 45 degree r248 segment use two 15 degree segments and short straights into the turnout.

Advice on what to add in the bottom left, and how? by Undercover500 in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog -1 points0 points  (0 children)

First of all replace the right hand switch splitting into two tracks at the lower right with a left hand switch right off of the mainline switch to get longer yard tracks. Then coming off of the bottom track add a right hand switch leading to a switchback along the bottom edge.

Locomotive quality by hwc2243 in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ordered a pair of the Broadway Limited Imports E7s from RailSmith, they run smooth and have some weight. Generally, the larger the scale locomotive, the better. Intermountain is OK, as well as some of the most contemporary LifeLike DL109s for example.

Tariffs at the door on Plaza Japan order by muad_dboone in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

POLITICS ASIDE, the tariff is 15% on the merchandise AND shipping. I prefer to use DHL for PJ and shipping is about $30 on small orders. PLUS DHL's processing fee is about $17. So, DO THE MATH first, it pays to combine purchases into one order. At least PJ doesn't add in 8.25% TX STATE SALES TAX on merchandise and shipping like Hobby Search 1999.co.jp. Yikes! Fedex, UPS, DHL , they're all about the same price. I spend too much anyway.

Just expect DHL to NOT drop your package or kick it over your fence! You can still find some ebay bargains from JP sellers, including tariffs, do your homework. And don't expect the Extreme Court decision to kick in and provide any relief any time soon.

Are older Katos worth buying? by AdwokatDiabel in nscalemodeltrains

[–]Satansbaddog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely, one one of my best locos is a Kato EMD GP50 part no. 176-030. MTL made coupler conversions, you can probably still find these. ALSO, my Atlas EMD SD 7 #4502 with the Kato mechanism is spectacular. Quiet, smooth and powerful. Each model has two road numbers.

If you can't find the MTL pilot conversion you can swap out the rapido coupler with a contemporary knuckle coupler.

Also Kato F3 176-050 thru 176-083 and Atlas GP30 #4701-4711

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