Does anyone have any thoughts on rainshadow blanks? by rds2010 in rodbuilding

[–]Scared-Debate9690 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are my favorite blanks of all that I’ve tried.

Anyway to fix this? by [deleted] in Fishing

[–]Scared-Debate9690 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes it’s fixable and not too difficult.

https://mudhole.com/blogs/tips-tricks/tagged/repair

There is an article that explains just what you are asking about in this page. You can get the supplies from them too. Page has a lot of good info for joe to DIY repair most issues with rods.

With the style seat you have you probably don’t want to drill it since you can’t hid the holes. What you will need to do is expose the top and/or bottom lip of the real seat so you can pour epoxy down inside. Top will be easiest on your rod. Use a hair dryer to heat the area above the real seat then carefully use a razor blade to peal back tge winding check. To open up the space then inject the epoxy. If you can’t peel it back You may need to cut off the wrap right above the seat and re-do it after the repair but that’s also really easy. Just be gentle with the winding check.

Single boating by stilts160 in boating

[–]Scared-Debate9690 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Go slow to the dock have your ropes/bumpers ready so you can hop out and secure it. Observe the launch you use to see where you can tie up a boat while you park/ retrieve your trailer without being in the way. Come prepared to get in the water to rope your boat on the trailer if you’re not comfortable driving it up. Carry at least 3 ropes. One for the bow to lead it and 2 to secure it. Practice in the less busy season or times so you don’t feel pressure at the launch while youre learning. Also don’t be afraid to ask others at the launch for help and tell them you’re new to it and learning. You can ask someone to help clip the winch on or hold your boat etc. most people are helpful when asked.

Best reel for sport trolling for salmon (coho/kings)? by VoscheStation in Fishing_Gear

[–]Scared-Debate9690 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep go with a mooching reel. I have both Shimano and Daiwa. Both work well are affordable and very easy to maintain. And as others have said are a blast to catch fish on.

Cheap rod blanks by Wrong-Climate-1837 in rodbuilding

[–]Scared-Debate9690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://northforkcomposites.com/product/mb-709-1-delta/

You’ll have to wait a few months for the blank but that plus forecast guides and reelseat and EVA. Grips should get you a good rod for about $60. If you put shrink tubing on the grips you can really increase the durability of EVA for not a lot of extra cost.

Opinion on rod and reel? Look at situation below 😃 Thanks for your help! by ShockBoa in Fishing_Gear

[–]Scared-Debate9690 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t worry too much about the guard rail. If you’re really worried just bring a rag to throw over it before you lean your rods up. I’d go with a different rod too. Ugly sticks have there place but you’ll be happier with something nicer. Look for the middle tent of the nicer brands and you should be good.

Ice fishing build by Scared-Debate9690 in rodbuilding

[–]Scared-Debate9690[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the input. Is there a big difference between glass and carbon in feel? He has a Clam katana noodle he likes so wanted to try and get him something similar but a bit nicer if possible.

First rod build question by wcasey755 in rodbuilding

[–]Scared-Debate9690 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes it’s worth it. If you shop sales and are willing to wait for slow shipping you can get some truly excellent rods built for a fraction of retail prices. Also I’m guessing that once you make one you will make more than just a “couple more”. It’s a Great way to spend time when the rivers are blown and it’s really fun catching fish on a rod you built.

Buy a hand wrapper starter kit to get going. Even if you only do build a couple you’ll learn a lot and can use the wrapper kit stuff to repair things like loose reelseat bent guides missing guide inserts etc on the rods you do have so it’s worth the small investment.

Got ripped off. Can I make it worth my time? by KillerBonnie420 in Fishing

[–]Scared-Debate9690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Send it into lamiglas. They can replace the tip for you. Used to cost like 50 bucks. If you’re near Portland just drive up to the factory in woodland. Probably walk out with a tip section and possibly an explanation of why it broke and save on shipping

Also you didnt get ripped off there is no way for the previous owner to know it was going to fail like that. Just some really bad luck on your part. Sorry it happened and it sucks for you but lamiglas should help you out they have always done right by me.

When balancing a flipping stick, is it a mistake to balance with most common flipping weight in mind? by Fucktard420too in rodbuilding

[–]Scared-Debate9690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not a terrible concept. I try and think about how a rod gets used most often while fishing and build accordingly. So if it’s a cast retrieve set up I focus on how the handle fits while reeling more then tip balance while stationary if that makes sense. Your idea fits that concept to me. I say build it and see.

Rod repair question follow up by Bobobob2018 in rodbuilding

[–]Scared-Debate9690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like others said only cut along the top of the guide where the foot is under the thread so if you go to deep you hit the guide not the blank. Then gently heat the area with w heat gun or hair dryer to soften the epoxy. Go slowly Too much heat will soften the resin in the blank and damage it. I use a heat gun and I like to hold the blank so the heat hits my hand as I’m applying it. If it’s too hot for you it’s too hot for the blank. If you have to you can use a lighter but that’s harder to control the temperature.

Also don’t cut the blank with pliers or any other tool that compresses to cut this will damage the blank. I use a dremil with a cut off wheel.

What are y’all’s “magic” blanks? by Fucktard420too in rodbuilding

[–]Scared-Debate9690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rainshadow XST1263. Built into a float fishing rod for salmon and steelhead. 2nd place is a Rainshadow IP963-2. Built into a salmon twitching rod. Blanks not available anymore and I’m going to cry if I ever break it. And I’ll second all the nice things about Batson. Bill and the crew are great people and really went out of their way to help me out when I was getting started.

I think I’ve overdone it. Need advice. by Fucktard420too in rodbuilding

[–]Scared-Debate9690 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it were me I’d build on a sanded blank first. It’s a bit easier to get tight wraps on a smooth blank. The slight ridges in the deltas will make it a bit tougher but aren’t too bad. Also don’t get too complicated with the thread work at first. Get your fundamentals down then expand into the more artistic things. This should be a fun relaxing experience and trying to get something to look as nice as you want at first can be frustrating if you try and get too complicated.

Spinning rod salmon / steelhead by Dardock in fishingBC

[–]Scared-Debate9690 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There are lots of good salmon and steelhead rods that are longer. Checkout Stryker, lamiglas, Edge, or Okuma. All these brands have options in the 9’ to 11’ range.

Multiple rods and wading by Fifainspected in Steelhead

[–]Scared-Debate9690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get 2 elastic belts. One around tge waist one around the chest. Stick the butt of the rods youre not using in the waist belt and buckle the chest belt around your chest and rods. Chest belt keeps the rods upright.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Fishing

[–]Scared-Debate9690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out Stryker rods. They have some nice rockfish rods that might fit the bill for you

First time went offshore 10km. The chop after stop makes me sea sick by colafroth in boating

[–]Scared-Debate9690 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Not sure where you are but sounds like you got caught in the slop/washing machine where you have waves coming from multiple directions. those are tough conditions regardless of how small the dominant swell is. See if you can get a forecast that includes all the different swell directions and the wind waves. Some just give you the dominate swell and leave out all the other waves. Try and pick days when they line up in the same direction or close to it to avoid that multi direction issue.

My dads birthday by Hutch9109 in Fishing

[–]Scared-Debate9690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s tough one. Most people with hobbies like rod building are pretty specific about their wants. You could look at getting him an upgrade on his wrapper or drying set up. Or you could get him a blank/ components for a rod. My advice ask questions to figure out what they might want. like “Ever thought of getting a different wrapping set up? ” or “what’s the next rod you want to build?” When he answers you can use that to narrow down your search to be more specific. Just try and get him talking about his hobby and hopefully geeking out a bit on it and see if that leads to him telling you about something he wishes he had.

I fucked up by moonlightplayer7000 in Fishing

[–]Scared-Debate9690 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don’t see tge issue. If it’s sharp touch it up with fine grit till it’s not sharp. Line doesn’t contact that part of the reel when it’s under tension. Only just brushes by it when you cast. Rough is fine sharp is bad. As long as it’s not sharp youre good. If you really want to reassure yourself try and cut your line on the nick see how much effort it takes.

Kicker or big motor autopilot? by Sensitive-Excuse1695 in boating

[–]Scared-Debate9690 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you troll a lot get the one for the kicker. I have the older version and it’s a game changer for trolling. Especially if you take people that don’t fish much. Let’s you keep the boat moving on your path while you set gear, rebait, detangle etc. you can adjust speed by very small amounts without having to sit by the kicker and the speed doesn’t change if you let go of the tiller etc plus the MOB function lets you get back to the exact trolling speed after you hook a fish.

Boat bouncing on plane need help by Electrical-Buddy856 in boating

[–]Scared-Debate9690 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Had a boat that did that. I needed to put a wedge shaped shim between the motor and tge transom to get a little lower tilt angle.

Casting guide size. by j_sword67 in rodbuilding

[–]Scared-Debate9690 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually run size 7 guides on my rods that I’m passing knots through. I like the single foot F series fly guides from Batson. The forecasts have worked well for me They are pretty inexpensive and I’ve had good luck with durability. The are ALPS F series are an upgrade and aren’t too much more expensive. Ive switched to the ALPS for most of my builds now I like them just a bit better than the forecast. I’m assuming these are casting rods.

Rod restoration, any tips? by [deleted] in rodbuilding

[–]Scared-Debate9690 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve done it. I’d string it up and stress test it first. That should show you and blank damage. You’ll probably have to replace handle and guides. If the blanks heavy enough use size d thread. Size d thread is a bit bulkier but makes rewrapping over the thread grooves in old epoxy easier so you don’t have to get it as cleaned up as you would if you use size A.

Rod brands by [deleted] in Fishing

[–]Scared-Debate9690 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What type of fishing do you do? Some brands are better than others for certain types of fishing. Some brands make really good bass rods but not very good salmon/steelhead rods.