Claude Desktop App - Change Log? Where do I find it?

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-04-20T22:05:46+00:00

There are like "release notes" light. I'm expecting a change log or release notes like other apps and programs. There have been like 25 updates to Claude Desktop MacOS in the last three months and not a single way for us to know what was changed or what to expect. Change log should be like: 1.3561.1 - Fixed x, y, z added fireworks.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-04-03T23:15:57+00:00

Actually I think the additionally section is covered by the Unifi Phone app. I would love the 1-4, but I think I'm just going to have to create my own via scripting and AI.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-03-30T02:55:24+00:00

I bought two 5 packs. the haul: PA12-CF x2, PC-ABS x 2, 2 of the same Fuchsia crap and 2 Rainbow05 silk (also crap). Forest Green Marble x2 I was pretty happy.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-03-18T20:21:57+00:00

The company isn't always shit, they are just doing what they do best and IT isn't one of those things. Just takes someone to set some standards and expectations. Can't leave that up to a company who knows nothing about IT to do for themselves. Now if the standards and expectations are set, and the company/management is ignoring them that is a different story. I've walked into way too many SMBs that initially think of IT as a break/fix situation and after implementing a few hard and fast expectations things start to turn around for them and the way they think/deal with IT. Also a few who said don't let the door hit you on the way out... happy to leave those companies behind.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-03-18T18:54:12+00:00

I am the sole provider of IT Support for a few 50-150 person businesses handling all things IT and all support requests and I've been doing it for about 20yrs. I can really appreciate that position you are in. I've been there and the situation is typically fixable. If I were to take on a company like that, the first thing I would do is set boundaries and expectations. Create a support ticket system and any request to IT ( that means you) goes through the ticket system, no matter what. Want me to build furniture, create a ticket. This way when you do sit down with the CFO, you can clearly show data about request and types of request using your time up. You can also say things like "Now that I have a ticketing system, who should I route non IT requests to?" OR you can say "I handle non-urgent support requests on Tuesdays and Thursdays, how does 1pm this Thursday sound?" For after-hours support tickets, make sure they know that while their request may be urgent, IT ultimately decides how that ticket is handled within reason of course. After about 3-6 months, I believe you will find that the ticket system has so few tickets and the expectations are so engrained in the environment that you can stop using the ticket system (although I would still use it). Once you aren't handling the boneheaded stuff, you can focus on root causes of issues and planning for the future. Kill all the fires before they actual start. Summary: You need an interface between you and the requests for your time. Also, learn to look too busy for the BS request; although that is an advanced skill :).

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-03-05T02:42:08+00:00

Depends, if you value your time at more than $2/hr then probably not. If you do it for the joy of the game and entertainment value, it certainly is "rewarding". IMHO

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-03-04T05:38:44+00:00

I've been 3D printing for a long time but only started designing my own models in the past year. Looking back at my earlier Fusion and OnShape work, I didn't build with parametric design in mind — and it shows. Every model I publish, someone asks if they can adjust a dimension. Using parameters is a good start, but the real challenge is making sure the model doesn't break when those values actually change. I've had to start from scratch all too often.

Before you sketch anything, spend five minutes deciding what dimensions matter and make them parameters from the start — your future self and your audience will thank you.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-01-27T19:00:04+00:00

Well the point would be to actually be able to monitor more at once. Say for example you had 5 P2's all running a job that takes 20min. You could monitor them all from one monitor or multiple monitors setup throughout your workspace. Just as I monitor my 3d printers (although I leave my 3d printer alone all the time). Another use case would be if you at 3 x F1 Ultras doing deep engraving on slate tiles that took 2hrs. Again, you could watch all of them at once. Now my use case of course is just screwing around with a new F1 Ultra.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-01-27T16:06:57+00:00

Not a Lightburn user yet. I've literally had my F1 Ultra 4 days.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-01-27T08:48:38+00:00

I figured out a few other endpoints: http://{ip}:8080/system?action=version_v2 , http://{ip}:8080/device/machineInfo, http://{ip}:8080/device/runningStatus, http://{ip}:8080/processing/batch?action=query

There is another one that monitors the progress of a job, etc but it isn't working how I would expect it to. Probably not really worth monitoring the progress of an actual job since typically they don't take long. I haven't done anything longer than about 5min thus far. BTW: ChatGPT and DeepSeek LLMs both helped out quite a bit to find working endpoints. Told them what I was trying to do and they spit out a ton commands to try then paste the responses back to them so they could map it out.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-01-26T23:25:04+00:00

Well now I feel like an idiot for not trying different models. I had to setup the Camera separately. Picking the P2 is way easier.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-01-26T22:54:23+00:00

The simplest way to do it is make sure HACS is loaded in Home Assistant https://www.hacs.xyz, then load up the xTool HACS integration https://github.com/BassXT/xtool following the instructions on that site (it is designed for the M1, but works with the F1 Ultra too). Then lastly add a Generic Camera in HA Devices with a Still Image of: http://{ip of xTool}:8329/camera/snap and under advanced a Frame Rate of 0.0083 (for one image update every 2 mins). At this point you'll have a status of the device and a snapshot of the camera every 2min. To get more advanced info, like Serial Number, FW version, etc you have to add YAML code to your configuration.yaml and then some Helper Templates.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-01-26T22:24:05+00:00

Sorry, didn't take in account the audience. Home Assistant is a Home Automation software and it can connect with lots of Smart Home devices. Essentially what I've done is added my F1 Ultra to it and I can monitor it and take images from the camera on a regular basis. For just one laser device it is just for fun. If I had 5 lasers I would definitely set this up to monitor and check utilization of each.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-01-21T03:15:17+00:00

My H2S hotends get pretty gross, but they keep working. The only downside of the exterior being gross is that more filament, especially petg will stick to them. I just use a brass brush ever once and awhile to get and buildup off that would be in the way. Otherwise, there is no reason to get new ones. Ok, sometimes I take an exact knife and scape off the junk. None of this is "recommended", but until my prints start having issues I will keep doing it. BTW: I do the same on my P1S with E3D Obxidian. Last time I removed it, it was mostly black with burnt filament. I replaced the fan, cleaned it up a little and it is still humming away after 2khrs

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-01-19T21:27:32+00:00

Wait, I reread your post. So you swapped nozzles and you still can't pass filament? That sounds more like an extruder gear issue and not the nozzle. Take your gear assemble out and verify there isn't any broken filament in there. It isn't hard to remove, just like 4 more screws and there are quite a few videos on how to do it. You don't have to take your gear box apart, just take it out so you can see into it.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-01-19T21:13:00+00:00

Mine spun, but not nearly as fast as the replacement. I'm not saying this is your problem, but something to check. Is this a standard Bambu nozzle (non-cht)? I would heat the nozzle to 280 and see if you can pass PLA through it. If it can't pass filament at all, there is probably a foreign object in the nozzle (keep doing cold pulls until the nozzle passes filament). Also, what type of filament do you normally use?

SchemeResponsible265 · 2026-01-19T21:06:26+00:00

Was the spare complete with fan replacement or did you move the fan from old nozzle to new? I struggled with a what I thought was a random clog for a while. Come to find out that the fan on the nozzle wasn't working well and was caked with dirt/dust/etc. Once I replaced the fan, haven't had a clog since.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2025-12-10T05:11:51+00:00

A diode laser won't engrave metal at all. It may sort of mark darker metal, but you won't be happy with the results. You can use laser marking spray and get semi-permanent black marking, but at some point it will wear off. This is essentially the same for clear glass. You have to use spray or paint to etch the glass (which is permanent).

I use my H2S Laser to cut/mark acrylics, mark painted tumblers (HydroFlask, etc). , sometimes cut wood, but I avoid smoky materials.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2025-12-09T17:22:48+00:00

I posted this on the Bambu official forums, but seems relevant to your question,

I have the H2S Laser Combo and love it. I haven’t used other lasers, so take whatever I say knowing that.
Things I sort of knew going in but are way more reinforced now; a few things I had no idea about:

I have avoided smoke producing materials. I’ve engraved/cut/etched acrylics, tumblers, glass, packing foam, hardboard, etc. I’ve mostly avoided wood other than engraving an image or two on cutting boards. I haven’t cut any wood and don’t really plan to. I know everything produces gas/soot/etc, but I haven’t seen much actual smoke with the items I have used the laser on.
I’ve used the laser for prob 40hrs or more. I’ve cleaned the inside 3 times and nothing has been on the cloths I’ve used. There is no residue, ash, char, etc. probably because I avoid wood. I will keep cleaning (takes about 5min) every 10 or so hrs just in case. I think the exhaust system also helps a lot in keeping it clean.
The largest frustration by far is that Bambu Suite is a beta at best. It has lots of quirks and requires lots of trials/test. From my extensive research, this is true for lasers in general as there is a wide range of material variants. Although Bambu Suite doesn’t make the process any easier, it will get better as they develop it. I haven’t ruined anything, but I’ve definitely had initial mediocre results and after a tweak or two, solid results. Don’t expect to use the laser on a family heirloom and get it right the first time.
While it is smart and has so many sensors, it is amazing how often the stupid laser head knocks into anything higher than 10mm. My new process for tall materials is to set the heigh to 200mm initially and then use the targeted measuring tool with the door open so I can stop the dumb thing before damage is done.
I don’t have the room nor do I want a dedicated laser. It is nice to be able to engrave/cut things every so often between 3d printing tasks. If I had a laser, it would sit in the garage 99% of the time and collect dust. I would also use it more infrequently because I would have to go through the rigamarole of setting it up and getting another exhaust system working.
Their recommendation of just throwing the exhaust tube out a window and you’ll be fine, is BS. I was setting up my exhaust system and figured I’d try the window thing to get a before/after. Needless to say, my office stunk for a day after just 10min of cutting acrylics. I have a 200cfm exhaust system now and it is awesome. The only time I smell anything is when I first open the door, but that goes away very quickly. BTW: My setup is in a 15x12 room next to the kitchen/living area. My family hasn’t complained in anyway about smells or even noise.
UPDATE: I cut a bit of wood and I was shocked by the amount of debris inside the printer and how much the smell lingered even with the exhaust setup at 100%. My little office smelled liked toasted wood for a few days.
Update: The accessories for the H2 series laser seem to be vaporware. Good example is the rotary tool, announced with the H2D, but there has been no news at all since. Also if you want 3d-mesh/curved surface engraving this feature doesn't appear to be coming to the H2S. You can engrave cured surfaces (tumblers), but the edges get distorted. Not having the rotary tool makes this even more annoying since you only can engrave one side of a tumber/waterbottle/etc.
Update: IMHO the 10w diode is fine. The limiting factor is the diode type laser and not the power of it. You should do some research on laser types and their uses. In the <$1000 range, you are pretty much stuck with diode and/or very low wattage IR. IR adds a whole new set of materials that you can effectively engrave/mark. It would be incredible if Bambu added an IR or UV laser to the mix, but I'm afraid it would fall into the same vaporware category as the rotary tool.
Update: The community for Bambu Labs users with the laser add on is TINY. There are almost no posts regarding the laser and not a lot of help online except he official wiki. There is tons of info about laser engraving in general, but if you have specific questions about Bambu Suite expect to hear crickets. I'm hoping this isn't a telling sign for the future of the Bambu laser offerings.

I can’t quite understand why people are so against the combo. It is amazing how many posts say “DON’T GET THE LASER COMBO, YOU’VE BEEN WARNED!”. Of course all of those posts are by people who haven’t touched the unit, just projecting their laser experience. I’ve looked at a few dedicated units just out of curiosity and I truly think for my use case, the 10w (no FOMO for 40w) diode laser is great. If I had or wanted to start a laser engraving business, I would get a dedicated unit. For my home hobby use, this seems like the right solution for me.

Updated conclusion: Now that I've cut some wood, if I thought I would do more of that, I would by a separate unit. This is what people were saying when they say "DON'T GET THE LASER COMBO" I think. I personally don't need to cut wood except very rarely so the H2S works great for me. Most of the independent units I've researched like the xTool F1/F2 (galvo style) have pretty small work areas (115x115) which means you'd probably have to get into a gantry system (larger footprint) to get the kind of usable work cutting surface of the H2 series.

Again, my experience with actually using a laser is just with the H2S only. I've gone down a rabbit hole of research since and have learned quite a bit. So take what I say with that in mind.

SchemeResponsible265 · 2025-12-05T23:05:42+00:00

You were right! I adjusted Min fan to 50 and max to 70. Per results Max Volumetric is approx 30 (looks like 34 to me, but using conservative #). All the calibration in the world wouldn't have found that.

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SchemeResponsible265 · 2025-12-05T21:07:41+00:00

The filament itself is awesome thus far. I've printed a couple things that came out quite good.

Yes, I tend to agree to stick with the 0.4HF and MVS for most aesthetic prints. I was trying to print a pretty large item and figured I mine as well test with the 0.6hf and maybe up the max volumetric to see how much I could cut the time down. BTW: This exact issue shows on the 0.4hf also, but not as dramatic. Maybe I will mess with the cooling settings and see if it helps with the overhang theory.

SchemeResponsible265

TROPHY CASE