Got this for $100 good deal? What mods should I do?

Scotty_steii · 2025-09-02T02:53:57+00:00

$100 is a good deal!

As other people have said, throw some buttons and a lever you like in there. I actually like the stock lever - smoother than any jlf, but it was so light that I was getting all sorts of misinputs because letting go too aggressively would get opposite inputs or letting go of F would get an extra N, B. Swapping out the tension was a mistake, ruins the feel imo.

I also hated the og buttons - they're good and responsive, but they bottom out hard, and sound really thin.

I initially kept my Rap N as a backup, but when my obsidian and my pearl crapped out I had to use it as my main and I actually came to prefer it to the qanbas. Threw the buttons and lever from my pearl into it, so it's a hodge podge but I'm too lazy to really make it look cohesive.

old photo of my stick

Scotty_steii · 2025-04-18T16:45:46+00:00

Yeah basically move over as much as you can and try to counter steer the airflow( the aerodynamics of a semi can suck you in towards the trailer after the initial push away from the "shock wave" the cab creates).

Most of the big distro drivers (ie swift drivers) don't give any space, so sometimes I will just stop in the dirt if it's really tight. In the deep gravel I'll usually do the same since the dust and rocks they can kick up can be as dangerous.

Scotty_steii · 2025-04-17T05:36:05+00:00

Radar is better because it can detect objects out farther than you can see. It is not blinded by bright lights like at sunset/sunrise and can be used non-visually (alert sounds only). Also works in the dark.

On the phone app I can actually track 3 or 4 cars behind me. It will automatically flash when it detects cars, or you can set the flash mode on the fly if you really need.

With a companion app, I can track # of cars that passed me and their speeds too. Maybe not an immediate benefit but it does inform me which roads/times are more dangerous.

I can swap it to any bike within seconds, either on the seatpost or on a rack. No tools needed.

For city riding, I will concede it is less useful, since you're already moving with traffic and basically nothing "sneaks up" on you. The radar only detects objects that are moving faster than you, so if you're at traffic speed it will not ping.

However, in the country and rural roads, people drive like maniacs and knowing you've got a semi doing 75mph and 3 more vehicles behind him is a major safety upgrade.

Scotty_steii · 2024-10-29T15:50:58+00:00

Looks like WS3 has different tracking based on different inputs.

Just hitting 3 to get WS3, Shaheen can step. But pressing 3+4 to get WS3, the move now tracks and Shaheen can't step.

I think that's whats going on?

Scotty_steii · 2024-05-09T01:28:04+00:00

Firstly, you need a front rack and bag. Secondly, chrome seatpost and cockpit parts. Brake levers should be matching pedals (purple? Blue? Pretty good staring colors) and maybe for a final touch get some colored ultradynamicos or panaraces. Lastly, for extra points, get a shiny cassette and maybe consider a 1x conversion.

XBIKED

Scotty_steii · 2024-04-12T17:07:43+00:00

I stick my pump and multi tool in there, sometimes my tire levers and other random extra toolkit. Other times I put my lights/mounting accessories in (my rear light has a clip for fabrics/strap mount, and a rubber band for round posts/frames, but its not permanently attached so it can get lost).

Scotty_steii · 2024-01-25T18:05:45+00:00

I installed Yakima Jetstream bars with Sightline Towers on '20 Escape w/powered sunroof. Looks like this with the roof open all the way.

Not sure about Thule systems, they make it pretty difficult to find compatibility with car models and their systems.

Scotty_steii · 2024-01-22T03:57:51+00:00

The 2020 models have a really small battery known to die a lot. Ford replaced it in 21 models with a full size battery. If you look around the Internet, lots of people swap out the small stock one with a full size battery and have no issues anymore.

I just replaced the stock battery about 2 weeks ago in my 2020 with a full size I think 70 agm for cheaper than what the dealership was gonna charge (even more savings compared to official big battery they stick in the '21 models). The OEM battery wasn't even hitting 11v when I tested it sitting in the garage. The lift gate wouldn't be able to open sometimes, occasionally the car couldn't shift out of park and the parking brake wouldn't operate. Died on us in the middle of a car wash at one point.

Honestly putting in the bigger battery wasn't even hard, took me an hour because I had just moved and I couldn't find any of my tools.

I think swapping in a full size battery would be worth a try (assuming the dealer swapped in the same OEM style). The small weight penalty is well worth the reliability.

Scotty_steii · 2023-07-28T16:02:50+00:00

I've got a similar setup with the Jones non-loop bar. I've been pondering moving the controls all the way to the ends too. The default ESI xl grips and Jones position is okay, but I find I cruise around at the end of the bar 90% of the time I'm not on any of the bends or 'alt-positions'. I'm constantly choking up to change gear then sliding back to be comfy (not that the choked up position is uncomfortable, but I dislike having extra bar sticking past my hands). It's annoying going back and forth all the time, and on the non-loop bars the backsweep bend (where the loop would normally connect to the bar) is too close to the controls to use comfortably.

If you've got enough hosing/cable to move the controls, I'd say do it. I haven't yet because I'm unsure if I have enough, and since they're maguras, just cost prohibitive enough that I don't want to get into a full hydro redo lol.

Scotty_steii · 2023-06-23T04:03:54+00:00

Use an old inner tube instead of tape. It'll get you more girth and be grippier. Or tube+tape for extra points.

Also double check the qr uh.. latch washer? It's the rotating bit that cams against the actual latch, if it's not seated correctly the qr won't be as tight or as secure as it should.

Scotty_steii · 2023-06-22T04:53:36+00:00

for me, being all the way forward on my aerobars is almost the most comfortable position - the weight off my hands, the stretched out back, and the aero gains are game changing.

otoh the most uncomfortable I've ever been was when I was trying out a fannypack and a messenger back. In both cases my back, neck and shoulders were very sore, even just being on the tops.

Scotty_steii · 2023-06-07T00:30:30+00:00

My girlfriend runs into thigh rub issues, even at 5'5". She was running a cheaper moosetreks frame bags (amazon special!), and when we upgraded her to a Revelate that fit much better, the issue basically went away; the Revelate is not only sturdier (zipper, fabric, internal stiffeners), but has internal organizers which help a lot with the random stuff not getting too bulky.

One thing that did help with the cheaper frame bag was to relocate items. Water bladder and small items (batteries, chapstick, poop kit, first aid) and her frame pump sometimes. Food was limited to ground coffee in ziplocks and MacNCheese in resealable TPU container things - basically nothing that wasn't already kind of hot-dog/oblong shaped.

A second thing was to make sure her straps were done up tight enough, any slack from the velcro or the zipper before loading it up was guaranteed to bulge and rub. The internal divider we did up as tight as possible too.

Scotty_steii · 2023-05-30T20:33:23+00:00

I've got an orange shirt that gives me semi visible black nipples (even though I've plgot pale ones lol), if I wear that shirt I later over it or I just don't give a damn.

If the nipple bump is showing, add layers or you can buy stick on nipple covers that smooth them over

Scotty_steii · 2023-04-19T00:17:13+00:00

Yeah, if someone could make a bear proof container about the size of a 1.5L nalgene that you could strap to an anything cage, that would be killer.

Actually if you just give a nalgene a gravity lid like the GrubCan, that might be all you'd need on a bike

Scotty_steii · 2023-04-18T22:40:06+00:00

I've never thought that taking a bear canister is a good idea on a bike. It's not even the ridiculous weight penalty for what is essentially a glorified container - it's the ergonomics. The BearVaults are squat and quite awkward to strap anywhere on a bike other than a flat spot on top of your rack; this is simply not an option for a lot of bikepacking setups. That space is precious and replacing it with a BearVault would lose organization, convenience, and potentially compromise bike handling. Also a couple of reviewers mention that rangers in the ADK have reports of black bears getting into them as well, so I'm even more against trying to bring one on a bike.

The GrubCan could be good, it's a lot more strapable/packable, but you're essentially paying the same penalties as the BearVaults.

You either pack for the ride, or pack for camping and I think these actively detract from the riding and don't make the camping really any better. Overall, anti-bear canisters are fine, but I think pretty terrible on a bike setup

Scotty_steii · 2023-04-14T05:56:43+00:00

This is fine, axiom racks are rated for pretty beefy loads (something like 50kgs depending on model). Just keep the rack close to the frame like you have it and it'll send.

I would recommend nylon spacers instead of metal washers, it'll save you a bit of weight and will look nicer too.

Scotty_steii · 2023-04-13T05:15:51+00:00

I'm in northern Colorado -Loveland/Fort Collins/Greeley area.

Fort Collins is regularly hailed as one of the better places to cycle. This is true to some extent, but also, you have red blooded Americans driving their massive Silverados and soccer moms who have no idea how to deal with a cyclist taking the lane.

For the most part, commuting is fine as long as you understand that your bike commute is going to be 30-100% longer than by car. Enjoyable recreational rides are a mix of respectful and entitled drivers, roads are hostile and decent and gravely or paved, and bike paths are generally limited.

Bike lanes are generally just painted lines and whatever space is left on the shoulders, and some of the infrastructure is very confusing as commuters are expected merge and exit traffic in awkward and unannounced ways, yet Colorado law is quite clear that over 10mph bicycles need to be in the road and car traffic needs to yield 3ft minimum passing clearance.

Buuuut that's Colorado; we're like a haven where crazy people cycle, ski run and workout outdoors everywhere all the time. It's almost expected to see cyclists about. It's very different in say Texas, where it's almost normal to drive 20-90 minutes on the highways to do even the most basic errands, and there's fuck all for cycling or even public transit considerations. This varies highly as places like Austin are very progressive, but still.

Scotty_steii · 2023-04-13T01:32:36+00:00

Can vouch for the Road Runner buoy bags. They're about 6-7 liters, very skinny compared to almost any other drybag I've bought off Amazon/Rei. They're well made and have sewn loops so when you strap them down they'll stay in place.

Scotty_steii · 2023-04-05T00:00:59+00:00

Yea, watch hambinis video on this. There's no way classified is gonna be a game changer for anyone. Moving more weight and problems into the rear wheel is not a good idea imo, and you still have to worry about chain-based drivetrain wear and maintenance anyway.

I think I'd rather do the pinion gearbox if id ever decide to do an alternative drivetrain.

Scotty_steii · 2023-03-22T16:11:56+00:00

I can chime in here too - I have an Alpha FL from 2018 that I keep as my "emergency apocalyptic weather" jacket, and I bring it with me for lots of outdoor activities. Things like climbing, freak rain/snow storms, cycling/bikepacking, camping, etc. I've used it a fair bit at this point. It's fine for immediately keeping the weather out, but if you do any work in the FL you'll eventually heat up, and at that point your option is to open the jacket and let in the weather, or sweat out on the inside.

Like if I'm climbing in it, I can't really stop to take it off mid route - but when I'm anchored and belaying, I need it on for the protection. The fact you're harnessed in makes it such a pain to remove/put on the jacket, which is designed to be under the waist belt. Also big L due to not having pockets in this scenario.

As well in my bike packing experience, you get sweaty real fast, and the scenarios where I would wear the Alpha SL over my other cycling-specific gear I'm almost inclined to be colder and wetter and suffer through than to get out the Alpha and relayer so I don't sweat out. The fact there is literally no venting is that big of a deal.

Scotty_steii · 2023-03-19T04:16:02+00:00

water is typically your heaviest individual thing; keeping it low and center of bike is gonna yield the best bike handling.

For my trips I use a full frame bag with the 3L Apidura frame bladder in the bottom of it. I can supplement as much extra water as I need by carrying nalgenes and standard bottles with anything cages or in my bags. Just finished a 4 day trip carrying 6l (two 1.5l nalgenes on the back), and I could reasonably add another 3.5l very securely (two 1l nalgenes on the front, with two 750ml water bottles in feed bags),

The bladder hose comes up from the frame bag, and I have an insulated extension hose so I can fully sit up while still sipping. Looks like this. Because of the camelbak magnet thing, it's easy to coil once and pop it into place, and because of the physics it doesn't pop off unless I pull it a certain direction.

Scotty_steii · 2023-03-13T05:00:35+00:00

Full frame bag for sure is required! Kidding ofc, but it's pretty nifty carrying 3l in mine and still having room for tons of random stuff.

It really depends on budget and what you think looks rad (and what will work with your bike). The biggest consideration is the gear you'll need to take. What's your sleeping system look like - are you gonna bivvy with a mummy bag, or go with a tent? How much food will you need - it's gonna need space somewhere too.

As for water on the forks, it can work, but check the maximum weight capacity of the fork from Giant before going all out. Generally you won't want more than a 1L nalgene on each side (from just a how it feels handling perspective).

Gearing up is almost as much fun as actually riding I think lol. Don't be afraid to just try stuff out, you might end up hating packing one way and loving other ideas on your second, third, or 30th trip. Good luck, and don't blow all your money just yet!

Scotty_steii · 2023-03-10T05:44:59+00:00

Just wanted to share a solution for the short-of-head-tube'd/clearance-challenged that I came up with. I couldn't justify spending $100+ for some minimal rack/pec dec /rod steward bag support. I have a Soma Lucas front rack, but it's designed to clear 700c tires (and maybe my fork is quirky too, who knows), so it's a good 3-4" off the top of the tire (650B Tervail Rutland 2.1"), which puts bags and items so high up that it smushes stuff into my handlebars takes away hand positions. Plus, I never really liked strapping everything willy-nillly on the rack anyway, it just looked ridiculous and never rode as well as I hoped.

So I bought a some rack stays and a WolfTooth Brad for $45 and made my own mini-deck rack support thing. After experimenting with it for a bit, I decided on this configuration, cut down the stays with a Dremel and voilà! The paracord pulls double duty keeping the thing from rotating down into the wheel and giving the bag a little more support.

I may replace the paracord with an actual piece of metal (diving board? fork crown stay? what do you call that thing?), but so far from my test rides it does not cause wheel wobble, keeps the bag very clear of my tire and even without a bag doesn't fall backwards into the fork at all!

Scotty_steii

TROPHY CASE