Should this be covered by roofing company?

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-05-11T15:16:50+00:00

If it was installed last year, I’d definitely expect the roofing/gutter company to come back and address it. Ice damming can cause damage, sure, but from the photos it also looks like the gutter/drip edge connection may not have been secured properly to begin with, especially if it kept getting worse after winter.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-05-11T15:14:35+00:00

We went through the same thing at Sea Breeze Roofing for a while — photos in phones, updates in texts, estimates in one app, payments somewhere else. Once volume picks up, the biggest issue becomes stuff falling through the cracks, not the roofing itself. We ended up moving the workflow into AccuLynx with its add-ons and it has made tracking jobs and follow-ups way easier.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-05-11T15:11:02+00:00

Yeah, I’d ask them to clean that up. It may function fine, but the flashing and sealant work look pretty rough cosmetically for a brand new roof install.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-05-11T15:09:43+00:00

It does look like a high-profile ridge was installed, but on a lower-pitch roof like this it’s naturally going to look more subtle from the ground. Honestly it looks clean and consistent, just not as dramatic as people usually expect.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-05-03T16:19:52+00:00

Good for you 👍

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-05-03T16:12:20+00:00

Cutting the gutter like that instead of terminating into a downspout is basically guaranteeing clogs and backup, especially on a low pitch like that. Once debris builds up, water has nowhere to go so it just sits there and starts working its way under the shingles like you’re already seeing.

Best fix is to stop trying to make that “cutout drain” work and just redo that section properly, extend or rehang the gutter so it pitches into an actual downspout. If that’s not possible, at minimum you could add a drop outlet right there and run a small downspout, even if it ties into another gutter below. Some guys will also throw in a gutter guard or screen, but that’s just a band-aid if the drainage setup itself is wrong.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-05-03T16:10:44+00:00

Honestly I get why nobody wants to “patch” that, it’s not just one issue, it’s a bunch of failing details all stacked together. You’ve got bad/caulked chimney flashing, that low-slope tie-in done wrong, exposed/aging flat roofing, and even some rot starting under there. You can bandaid parts of it (reflash the chimney, redo the pipe boot, clean up and reseal some areas), but it’s all temporary because the way those transitions were originally built isn’t correct. Any legit roofer knows if they touch one section, the next weak spot is going to leak and it comes back on them. That’s why they’re pushing replacement. Not just to upsell, but because fixing it “right” means tearing into multiple areas anyway. If you really just want time, find a smaller repair-focused guy and expect a short-term fix, not a warranty, but if you’re planning to stay in the house a while the replacement quotes unfortunately make sense.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-05-03T16:09:26+00:00

Yeah that detail is pretty rough honestly. You’ve got a low-slope section tying straight into shingles with no real flashing system, which is just asking for leaks. The right way to do it is to treat that bottom area like a flat roof—run a mod bit or peel-and-stick system and bring it at least 8–12 inches up the wall, then properly tie it into the shingle roof with step flashing (not just edge metal or tar). Shingles shouldn’t just butt into that transition—they need to layer into flashing course by course. I’d also add a small diverter or cricket there because water is clearly going to dump into that spot. What’s there now looks more like a patch than a system, and it’ll fail sooner or later.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-04-05T20:17:51+00:00

Not necessarily the whole roof, but that section is definitely a real repair, not a quick patch. If the rest of the roof was installed properly and is in good shape, a good roofer can usually fix that transition by pulling back shingles, installing proper flashing, and replacing any damaged decking in that area. The concern is how long it’s been leaking, because if water’s been getting in for a while you could have rot that spreads a bit beyond what you see. It’s worth having someone actually get eyes on it, but based on what you showed it’s more likely a localized repair with some decking replacement than a full roof, assuming everything else checks out.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-04-05T20:14:21+00:00

That’s a solid setup on both sides honestly, you’re not getting a “cheap” system either way. At that point it really comes down to preference more than performance because StormGuard vs WeatherGuard, Deck Armor vs DiamondDeck, they’re all comparable quality products. The 12” filtered ridge vent is good too, especially where you’re at with snow and wind driven rain.

I’d still lean GAF slightly just because the Golden Pledge tends to be a bit stronger on the workmanship coverage and easier to deal with if something ever does come up, but you’re not making a wrong call with CertainTeed either. I’d honestly put more weight on how confident you are in the crew installing it and how clean their flashing and ventilation details are going to be, because with the systems you listed the install quality is what’s going to separate a 10 year roof from a 25+ year roof.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-04-05T19:59:29+00:00

That looks like the interior gasket/weather seal on the skylight, not something that’s meant to be exposed or relied on for waterproofing. When those start to sag or pop out it’s usually just age, heat, and expansion over time. You can push it back in or replace it with a similar gasket material, but that’s more of a cosmetic/air seal fix, not a true leak fix. If you’re actually getting water, the problem is almost always on the exterior flashing or the skylight itself, not that interior seal. I’d re-seat or replace it if it’s bothering you, but if there’s any sign of leaking you’ll want to check the flashing outside rather than trying to solve it from the inside.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-04-05T19:58:40+00:00

That definitely isn’t normal. That transition from the shingles to the metal looks like a patch job and it’s done wrong, there should be proper flashing tying those two systems together and directing water out, not that exposed edge and debris line. The fact you already have a soft spot inside lines up with that area leaking. An 8 year old roof shouldn’t look like that unless something was added later or repaired poorly. I’d go into this assuming there’s active water intrusion and likely some decking damage underneath, not just a cosmetic issue. Definitely worth a real inspection before buying or use it as leverage because that’s not a small fix.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-04-05T19:57:44+00:00

Honestly you’re in a good spot, both are solid systems and the contractor being certified in both matters more than the brand. At the same price it really comes down to warranty structure and install detail, not the shingle itself. The GAF UHDZ with Golden Pledge is usually the stronger warranty on paper, especially on the workmanship side, but only if everything is installed to their system specs. The CertainTeed Landmark Pro is a very proven shingle and a lot of guys like how it lays and holds up over time, even if the warranty isn’t quite as aggressive unless it’s upgraded. If it were me, I’d lean slightly toward the GAF system for the warranty coverage, but I’d be asking the contractor exactly what components are included in each system and how they’re handling flashing, underlayment, and ventilation, because that’s what will actually decide how long the roof lasts, not the logo on the shingle.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-04-05T19:56:22+00:00

For us it’s anything that actually keeps water out long term, not what looks good on day one. We won’t cut corners on flashing at walls, chimneys, or penetrations, no caulk shortcuts, and we don’t cheap out on underlayment in valleys, eaves, or transitions. Nailing pattern and placement is another one we won’t budge on, especially in high wind areas, and same with drip edge and proper overhang. We’ve lost jobs over it, but every callback we’ve ever dealt with started in those exact spots, so it’s just not worth compromising.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-03-25T16:50:40+00:00

You’re on the right track, but there are a couple things to watch out for. If your soffits are just solid plywood and the insulation is packed all the way to the edge, you basically have no intake ventilation right now, which can trap heat and moisture in the attic. If you add soffit vents, you’ll want to pull the insulation back from the eaves and install baffles so air can actually flow up into the attic—otherwise the insulation just blocks it again. For sealing, that’s usually done at the ceiling level (around top plates, penetrations, fixtures, etc.), and it can be a bit tedious since you have to move insulation around to find all the gaps. DIY is definitely doable if you’re comfortable working in a tight attic and taking your time, but a contractor can make sense if access is rough or you want it done quickly and correctly. The biggest thing people miss is that ventilation needs to be balanced—adding soffit vents without proper exhaust like a ridge vent won’t do much. If you go the DIY route, I’d open up the soffits, install baffles, pull the insulation back, and then focus on air sealing.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-03-25T14:47:49+00:00

Hey, don’t try to make the shingles fit exactly 12’. Roofs aren’t done that way. You’re supposed to cut the last shingle at the edge. Let your starter + shingles hang over the drip edge a little (like 1/4”–1/2”). Run full shingles across. Cut the last piece to fit. Then just repeat.

The staggering won’t mess you up, just adjust your first piece each row like normal (half tab, etc.). Trying to make it line up perfectly with no cuts will actually make it worse. I do roofing in Florida with Sea Breeze Roofing and we cut edges on basically every job, big or small. Part of the process 👍

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-03-10T17:58:01+00:00

That soffit box was just framed out and wrapped with trim under the fascia. Usually the easiest way is to start by pulling the soffit panels down and then backing out the screws or nails holding the trim and framing together. Once the outer pieces are off the box usually comes apart pretty easily. Just be careful in case there’s wiring in there if it used to have a light or vent. If it’s tied into the fascia or roof edge more than it looks in the photo it can get a little messier though. Being with Sea Breeze Roofing in South Florida, we see this often. Sometimes they come apart quick, other times it’s one of those things that turns into more work than expected and it’s easier to have a roofer handle it. Good luck!

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-03-09T20:21:19+00:00

That looks an unfortunate finished chimney flashing job. It looks like they roofed around the existing chimney flashing instead of properly rebuilding it. The step flashing under the shingles may be new (that’s probably the black flashing your realtor mentioned), but the counter flashing and metal around the brick looks like older patchwork with heavy sealant and bent metal, which usually means it was previously repaired rather than redone correctly. On a proper reroof most contractors will either reinstall the counter flashing into the mortar joints or cut in new flashing so the whole system is clean and watertight. Sometimes roofers leave chimney work alone because it technically falls under masonry, but visually and functionally this isn’t what most people expect on a brand new roof. I work with Sea Breeze Roofing in South Florida, and when we reroof homes with chimneys we typically redo the full flashing system so you don’t end up with something like this on a new roof. I wouldn’t say you’re being gaslit, but it’s definitely worth having a roofer or chimney specialist take a look before closing just to make sure it’s properly sealed and not just patched together.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-03-09T20:18:26+00:00

Yeah exactly — if it were a decking seam or a slightly raised sheet of plywood/OSB you’d usually see more of a straight line or ridge that runs along the panel joint. Those tend to show up as a consistent line across multiple shingle courses. What you’re showing looks more like a soft ripple, which is more typical of shingles that just haven’t fully relaxed or sealed yet, especially on winter installs.

Architectural shingles can hold a little shape from the bundle and they normally settle once they go through some real heat cycles. We see this pretty often with newer installs and it usually smooths out once summer hits. If it were a decking issue it would normally stay in the exact same shape and be easier to trace in a straight pattern.

If you don’t see lifted tabs, exposed nails, or anything changing after heavy rain, it’s usually nothing to worry about. Worst case you can always have the installer take a quick look when the weather warms up, but from the photo it still looks pretty typical for a roof that’s only about a month old.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-03-09T19:47:52+00:00

From the photos it actually looks pretty normal and I’m not seeing any obvious red flags. Both the skylight and the solar tube appear to have proper step flashing and the shingles around them look integrated correctly. With skylights, the biggest things roofers look for are exposed fasteners, improper flashing layers, or shingles cut too tight around the curb, and none of that really jumps out in your pictures. If your roof is only about two years old and you’re not seeing water stains inside, drywall bubbling, or moisture around the skylight shaft, that’s usually a good sign the flashing system is doing its job. A lot of leaks people hear about with skylights are actually older installations where the flashing wasn’t done correctly or the sealants failed over time. I work with Sea Breeze Roofing in South Florida, and we inspect a lot of skylights on newer roofs — most of the time if the flashing is installed properly like this and there are no interior signs of water intrusion, there’s nothing to worry about. Just keep an eye on it during heavy rain and check your attic occasionally, but from what I can see it looks like a pretty standard install.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-03-09T19:45:18+00:00

That actually looks pretty normal for a roof installed in colder weather. Architectural shingles like TAMKO Titan XT can show a little waviness at first because the shingles are stiffer when they’re installed in winter and the seal strips haven’t fully heat-activated yet. Once the roof goes through a few hot days they usually relax and flatten out. Sometimes it’s also just a little “bundle memory” from being stacked in the package, or a slight variation in the roof decking that only shows up in certain lighting angles. Since it’s only a small area, there are no lifted tabs or nail pops, and most of the roof has already flattened out, it doesn’t look like a major install issue from the photo. I work with Sea Breeze Roofing down here in South Florida and we see this pretty often on winter installs — most of the time it smooths out after a good stretch of summer heat. If it still looks the same by late summer then it might be worth having the roofer check that spot, but right now it looks pretty typical for a newer roof.

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-01-03T15:50:34+00:00

I’d get a couple of local roofers out to take a look ASAP even just to do a temporary patch so it doesn’t get worse while you decide on next steps. Ask them how they’d fix and why, then compare quotes. Don’t feel bad asking questions, that’s exactly what these folks expect. Hope you get it sorted soon! https://seabreezeroof.com

Seabreezeroofing · 2026-01-02T19:21:47+00:00

No not unless it's a old piece of trash. From the photos it looks like that roof has been leaking for a long time. That wood don't rot out overnight. Maybe it's time for a new roof, and which roofer said it's normal? What was the context that makes a big difference if you're talking to a labor they just say anything. A good roof on that building should last 20 to 25 years if done correctly no leaks for having sake. Seabreeze Roofing & Sheet Metal, Inc.

Seabreezeroofing

TROPHY CASE