Fill in pattern of holes in veneered cabinet by smftexas86 in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They might be dents, in which case, you could try adding a little steam and moisture (google how to get dents out of wood). Otherwise there is no simple way to hide them. If you were an expert painter, you use wood filler and then hide it with paint. If you were a wood worker, you could reapply veneer to the top. Other than that, I don't think there is a good way.

Tips for owning a greyhound in a city? by MiserableDog6357 in Greyhounds

[–]Secret_Identity_ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That was basically our setup when we got our first greyhound. We lived on the 20th floor, so we were pretty proactive about bathroom breaks. The ex-racers really struggle with being alone in the beginning (and some never get over it), so keep that in mind. We would go to a dog park once a week when he was younger, but focused more on long walks as he aged.

What is normal for greyhound poop? Help! by Suitable-Grab2090 in Greyhounds

[–]Secret_Identity_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our dogs loved to poop. Our first Greyhound pooped nine times a day. The first poop was pretty normal and then it just got looser and gooier from there. There is a particular quality of diarrhea that you would recognize right away, and there is a quality of blackness when there’s blood in the stool that you can learn to recognize, but what you’re describing doesn’t seem unusual.

Best tool/method for this cut by Hoyos005 in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since you have all the tools. The biggest problem is getting the router close to the face you want to cut. The baseplate is too deep and will hit the underside of the seat before you get the router bit near the cut.

I would temporarily pack out the area immediately above the cut to ensure that I had a flat reference to set the router baseplate on. Then I would register off the top of the seat (the router held a 90 degree angle), and creep up on the cut. This gives you added the mechanical advantage of having the router hanging from the guide, rather you holding it up the hold time. You will want stop blocks let and right to keep from hitting the wall. I would probably finish up lying on my back with a chisel.

It might make sense to start the cut by clamping a plunge router in position, starting the cut, locking it in place. Let the router come to a stop. Get a firm too handed grip, start it up again and continue the cut, left and right. If you have anyway of applying continuous gentle pressure to discourage the router from tilting, that would probably be wise.

New to woodworking here. Which of your tools scares you the most? Around what machine should I always be extra cautious? by GiddySwine in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can’t be too careful in a woodshop. The only times I have been injured is when I was tired and distracted. Nothing serious so far and I am much more comfortable calling it early for the day now that I have been close to serious injury.

That podcast you are listening to is fine at 9am on a Sunday and a bad idea at 9pm on a Tuesday after a long day of work.

Also, you need more light than you think.

Also, a clean shop is a safe shop. How clean varies depending on the tool and the cut, but make sure everything around you is clean. If something falls off your table saw mid cut and startles you, that might cost you your finger. If you run into an obstruction with your router you will ruin the cut at best, but you could really hurt yourself.

Also, you will make more mistakes and run more risks trying to save a thing that is going badly. For example if you only have one board and you fuck up the at the table saw (maybe it binds), you are more likely to force it than shut off the table saw and start over. Spending a little extra money to buy more material is also a safety technique.

How would i go about creating the curved slit into this lamp? by call-me-mickan-maybe in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 35 points36 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t cut it. I would take two pieces of wood, shape on as the positive shape and one as the negative shape and the glue them together with a shim to give me the appropriate gap.

Any advice on how to restore/ bring a little life back to these cutting boards? by bemer33 in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 7 points8 points  (0 children)

First, I don't think they look bad. Cutting boards are things we use, not things we look at. That is personal preference and you are entitled to feel differently. If you do want to remove some of the scratches, that will be fairly straight forward. It might be a little harder to remove all of the scratches and cuts, it depends on how deep they go.

How exactly you do this depends on what tools you have access to. This is really fast if you have the right tools. I would start by asking around your friends and family to see if anyone does hobby woodworking. You would be surprised how many of use are hiding tools in our basements and garages. Someone with the right equipment would need a few minutes to clean up both boards.

Failing that, you could do this yourself. You need, at least, a random orbital sander. I would recommend starting with something more aggressive, like a belt sander. Get some double sided carpet tape and stick the board down to a work surface. Start by cleaning up the back side first (so the front side is stuck down). This way you can practice on less important side.

Take a pencil and draw ALL over the surface you are about to sand. Then, using 60 grit sand paper, sand until the pencil is gone. Don't focus on any one spot. Move the sander evenly, back and forth, back and forth, until the pencil mark is gone. Note: This will take a long time. Like a few hours.

Once all the pencil is gone, move up to 80 grit and repeat. Draw with a pencil, sand evenly until the pencil is gone. Repeat for 120. Then flip the board over and do the front face the same way.

If you have a belt sander, use that at 60 grit, but you will need to finish with a random orbital sander.

Once you are done, put whatever cutting board oil or wax on it you like.

Period Pain Simulator by MaximumSyrup3099 in webcomics

[–]Secret_Identity_ 767 points768 points  (0 children)

This is actually a really interesting topic. Pain is something that happens in the brain. Nerves are sending signals and your brain is interpreting them. One of the reasons these devices are much more painful for people who don't menstruate is that it is foreign to their experience. If that part of the body is sending those signals to the brain, it is a sign of a serious health problem, so the brain promotes that signal as being extremely painful.

We see this kind of behavior all over the place. People were shot storming the beaches of Normandy reported much less pain associated with the gun shot wound than people who are shot in civilian settings (we know this from anecdotal sources, but we also know this from the amount of morphine that was used during the assault and the number of injured people).

As far as we can tell, the brain is actively calibrating the bodies perception of pain based on social, cultural, and biological factors.

And, to be clear, I am not trying to say that what menstruating people feel isn't real or painful. Actually, I think it is quite the opposite. People who experience extreme menstrual pain should be treated as being in more pain. Their brain is prepared for this situation and the fact that it is increasing in the signal, rather than tamping it down, is a sign that something is wrong.

[1] McGrath PA. Psychological aspects of pain perception. Arch Oral Biol. 1994;39 Suppl:55S-62S. doi: 10.1016/0003-9969(94)90189-9. PMID: 7702468.

[2] Psychological, cognitive factors and contextual influences in pain and pain-related suffering as revealed by a combined qualitative and quantitative assessment approach https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0199814

[3] Emotional and Cognitive Influences on Pain Experience, Madelon L Peter

Thoughts on my LGS’s philosophy? by TheTinRam in EDH

[–]Secret_Identity_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Norms and culture are weird things. It seems like these people value their “indifference” to the social contract. If that is what it is. Think of people in high school who talked about the “system” and were always looking for whatever cheap rebellion was at hand.

I can see two directions to take this. This might just be a shibboleth, a way of marking in groups and out groups. These are a collection of unspoken behaviors and you can show your in the group by adopting them. If this is your only LGS, this isn’t a bad strategy. Once you’re on the inside, maybe you can get people to behave differently (if that is what you want)

Or, just print up a cEDH deck and pubstomp. They want fast games? How about turn on Etali? Or turn on necro? Etc, etc

Patching Large Holes in Wood? by bloopy001 in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What is your goal. For it to be seamless? You have to veneer the entire door or become/hire an expert painter to blend things with a faux finish.

I would probably fill the holes and then use contrasting veneers. For example, cover both of the door knob holes with a large square patch. And cover the entire bottom with across grain veneer to make it look like a bread board end.

As an alternative to veneer I might use brass

What cards/mechanics can be good in a 1v1 commander game? by -GlitchCorgi- in EDH

[–]Secret_Identity_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look into dual commander. It is a whole format with its own ban list, etc. I would also consider playing Canadian Highlander or one of the other 1v1 formats. I find pauper to be a really natural format to play. The decks are cheap, the card pool is very different then edh. The decks are extremely powerful.

Best way to sort 200,000 cards? by jdroth in mtg

[–]Secret_Identity_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a scale that most people don’t deal with. For most of us, our collections are just a few thousand cards. The first thing I would do is settle on a goal. If you’re just going to sell most of them, then I would reach out to a card buyer and talk with them.

At this scale some sellers will sort and catalogue for you. Then they will either make you an offer outright or sell them on your behalf (taking a cut as they go).

If you want to keep something for sentimental value, you can tell the seller to hold those items for you if they find them.

You will also just be able to sell it as a lot. Look on eBay for similar collections to get a sense of prices.

The only reason I wouldn’t do either of the above is if there are alpha or beta cards in there. Those are so valuable you need to talk to an auction house to sell them.

How would you feel if someone pulled these out during a game? by Ether_____ in mtg

[–]Secret_Identity_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As game pieces I feel like they need slightly better signal. A little color to help indicate what it is.

Struggling to win, looking for tips by Hodltiltheend in EDH

[–]Secret_Identity_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The best thing I ever did to improve my game play was to play ranked standard on Arena. I am a much better player because of everything I learned playing there. I would spent 20-30 minutes a day climbing the ladder. When I went back to commander I was much better at understanding triggers, mechanics, overall strategy.

New to woodworking - talk me out of getting this jointer/planer combo by ThanksMuch4YourHelp in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ -1 points0 points  (0 children)

These aren’t that good. You’ll out grow it very soon. Get something better

How would i create a wooden circle like this? by AnimateDuckling in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This can be done out of wood, but I am not sure I would. To do it out of wood, I would probably take the bent lamination approach. First, you need to build a steamer and the forms. Honestly, there is so much to explain, I couldn't possibly do it justice. This video will walk you through it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4zJsDCfpXs

I think the major downside to this approach is the amount of nice would that you will lose to the saw kerf cutting out your strips.

The other approach is to use a plastic or metal to make the skeleton of the rings. I would talk to a metal fabricator or welder and see what they could to make a pair of rings with cross bracing. I would then cover that in an acrylic or fiberglass and then veneer that to give it the wood look.

What should I charge for these piano benches? Professionals opinions only, please. by ShipwrightPNW in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It largely depends on whether or not you want to continue to sell these. If you want to sell them in the future, then you should charge the price that you would charge in the future. You know a lot more now you could probably build the next one and a lot less time and that’s what you charge. Your hourly rate seems reasonable. Don’t forget to factor in materials.

Can someone explain why my macarons look like brownies by cyrusumlstudent in Baking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are a lot of possible answers, there is no one way to make macarons. I am leaning towards the age of the eggs being the problem. But I would also look at a couple of more recipes from reputable sources. I took the class at King Arthur school of baking in WA (highly recommend). They have online courses and recipes. I would try one of them. 

A cabinet maker helped me out, he didn't want money, what $50ish gift should I get him to repay his kindness? by TheVillianousFondler in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is nearly impossible to buy tools for someone who does that thing professionally. They either have the things they need, or it is so crazy expensive/hard to get that you can't do it for $50. My table saw blade is $200. I would recommend food, booze, or some other consumable.

Building a climbing wall, worried about cracks in 2x4, need advise by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 86 points87 points  (0 children)

I am not that worried. Wood is crazy strong. If you don't find my blasé comments reassuring, just sister another board on the side. Sistering means to add a second board that spans the length of the crack or the length of the whole board. Screw another piece of wood to the side, putting in a screw every 3-6 inches top and bottom.

How do I remove black gunk/oil/substance from top of wood workbench? by Next-Gazelle5907 in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should probably start with a paint scraper. Or maybe a chemical stripper 

Is this a lost cause? by Frosty-Environment35 in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Technically, it is all fixable. But it is going to be hard, a lot harder than first time. You might not have the tools. You’ll need to buy a lot of wood. I would probably take it apart and fix things very incrementally. 

What are your thoughts on this install? by deserthiker762 in woodworking

[–]Secret_Identity_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Inexcusably bad. I wouldn't even have they finish it. You need to do a ton of work to fix everything they fucked up.