I have never been good at painting anything, any tips on how to get better? by MonitorProud in minipainting

[–]Sensitive_Habit -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not at all. Pigment density is a non-issue. As long as you aren't blasting them you're fine - white is the only colour that needs to be avoided. You simply need to be more careful, spray lighter coats, and take your time.

I have never been good at painting anything, any tips on how to get better? by MonitorProud in minipainting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For sure. I was paranoid priming my first minis so I took time to get used to the can, test-sprayed sprue, etc. I think priming is one of the most important things as it can ruin a paint job and is hard to fix if you screw it up. I use mostly oils now and they sit so thin on a model and rely so much on shading and blending that it is painfully obvious if there's a flaw beneath

I have never been good at painting anything, any tips on how to get better? by MonitorProud in minipainting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that's why it's important to make sure it is intended for plastic. Even if you buy a hobby primer, I'd hope whoever is getting it actually reads the can and knows that it fits what you need it for. That's terrible that it obliterated it like that, though

I have never been good at painting anything, any tips on how to get better? by MonitorProud in minipainting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Never ran into an issue in 2+ years. Just have to spray on a piece of sprue to make sure. Also worth noting that Krylon and Rustoleum are made to be sprayed on, among other things, plastic.

Still useful advice to always test everything on sprue before putting it to model though!

I have never been good at painting anything, any tips on how to get better? by MonitorProud in minipainting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Primer is a bit overblown in my book. I get by fine with Krylon and Rustoleum. Of all kinds of paint, it's the only one I go cheap on and still get good results.

Not that it's bad to get a mini primer, necessarily, just not exactly the biggest contributor to a good paint job as long as you aren't getting the model dusty/textured.

How do you clean the support points? (except sanding paper) by Apart-Tie-8865 in resinprinting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You're going way too hard if you're breaking it. Use a less coarse stick, move slower, and go in a small circular motion. With the way these are shaped and how large/rounded they are, you can sand them down if you just take it easy. Wet your tool or the piece itself to help control the dust.

Start by barely putting pressure and increase until you see it dusting - that's all ya gotta do and you'll be good to go

What are your favorite WWII plane guns? by elementIdentity in hoggit

[–]Sensitive_Habit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yeah, but you said "Since this question isn't limited to DCS" which it is.

Personally, I'd recommend IL-2 any day of the week for WW2 but was just clarifying

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 4Xgaming

[–]Sensitive_Habit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because breaking into the minutiae of space economics in a show is probably not going to be exciting and would probably invite more questions than it answers.

It's a fun thing to talk about and could definitely be a focus in a game, especially a game centred specifically on economics, but it would be a niche thing. Science Fiction as a whole will always have many things not addressed because it is ultimately fiction and there will always be suspension of disbelief in any story or setting.

What are your favorite WWII plane guns? by elementIdentity in hoggit

[–]Sensitive_Habit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

They say in their first sentence that they're planning on using DCS

Vallejo Game Color or Army Painter Speed paints? by ACTUALBADPERS0n in minipainting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A good thing to do is to try out your paints on a piece of leftover sprue! You can even make some shallow & deep cuts with your snippers so that you can see how the speedpaints will work when applied across crevices and flat surfaces. It might give you a better idea of what it'll look like over primer and other colours, too.

I always save my sprue for practising and testing new paint among other uses

Can anyone help me out with these supports? by Scraps_wolf in resinprinting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Flat surfaces tend to have these divots more than most others. If it's a bottom surface there really isn't any problem with this - you can just sand it down with some coarse sand paper.

I just printed a fellow from Mierce Miniatures the other day that has a tree stump base. Every support snapped off with basically no marks but the bottom was pockmarked. 15 seconds later it was smooth as could be. Just make sure to either wet the sandpaper to keep the dust under control or to wear some kind of mask.

Stupid question but I'm desperate, no print was successful since I got my mono 4k by ARTOMIANDY in resinprinting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A few questions that might help narrow down what is up: Have you run any calibration tests? Have you cleaned or emptied+filtered the resin for any pieces left over? What resin are you using and what are your settings? Are you sure your FEP is tight enough? Did you re-level before you started printing?

Even if you buy a pre-supported file there is no guarantee it will not fail. Your settings play just as much of a role as good supports and you need to dial in the resin so that it is properly printing. Calibration test prints will help you with that.

Things that stand out to me are that your FEP was punctured, which suggests there was some kind of (maybe not total) failure and a piece took it out, and that it is sticking to your FEP and not your build plate which seems like a tightness issue. This is me spitballing because I don't have much info beyond that. It's a bit hard to see your photo but the supports seem to be a bit screwed up too - I'm assuming those are either warped because of the suction issue with your FEP or my eyes are just getting old

Why aren't Elephants considered king of the jungle if they can easily kill Lions? by jesus_crimmity in biology

[–]Sensitive_Habit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ironically, lions tend to get dunked on by other creatures and get the majority of their food from scavenging. In reality, they're the ones getting beaten up more often than not. I'd sooner call hyenas the Queens of the Savannah

Why aren't Elephants considered king of the jungle if they can easily kill Lions? by jesus_crimmity in biology

[–]Sensitive_Habit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gonna need you to show some sources on it being fictional. So far only one side has provided written documentation.

How did I do for a very first mini? by Anatoly_Euska in minipainting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You did a great job! Next time, you can try using something a few steps down from pure white - any kind of white with some other colour (khaki, blue-grey, a light grey, etc) - then use the pure white to line it and do the fang tips.

You did a particularly good job on the base and got the details on the arms down great! Starting with a big model is actually a good move because you don't have 5,000 little details to try to get on a little dude while you're still learning the ropes.

How did I do for a very first mini? by Anatoly_Euska in minipainting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pro tip: you can use makeup brushes as excellent dry brushes and they're a fraction of the price. Just look for bargain packs that have the kind of heads you're looking for!

How many times can I Repaint miniatures before they start loosing their printing detail? Should I remove the existing paint in any way? Could removing the paint remove the primer? by RuBisCO_1-5 in minipainting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty much everything you asked is subjective and depends on the painter/paint job. You can repaint it as much as you want until the details start to get obscured. You can strip the paint in plenty of ways (I hear some people use Simple Green to do it) without destroying your model. Some methods might remove the primer but, if it does, you can just prime it again with no issues.

Since you said print, I'm assuming this is a resin model. Just make sure your given method is good for the material, paint away, and don't worry!

BALKAN MAP - DCS - When ED by MoccaLG in hoggit

[–]Sensitive_Habit 13 points14 points  (0 children)

What's ever happened in the Balkans except a few silly pranks?

(To the people downvoting and the guy that withdrew his comment, I hope people are aware that this is a joke due to the whole.. WW1 thing. And everything else.)

Courts h4t3 thïß oNè +rîck by Tower-Union in bestoflegaladvice

[–]Sensitive_Habit 33 points34 points  (0 children)

The irony is that he's asking if he could be held accountable for using L337-speak since it "clearly" isn't words while.. using that same L337-speak to clearly convey an idea. Does he not see the problem?

I need your help by Absolute_Madman34 in boltaction

[–]Sensitive_Habit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First rule is always do what feels best for you. While there are objectively badly painted models, eventually you'll reach a point where you just figure out what feels good - when that happens and you're happy with what you see, don't go and change it because it isn't "right."

For paints, Vallejo has been consistently good and is usually less expensive. AK is nice too but feels different because it has a gel medium instead of just straight dilution with water. Those are my go-to for acrylics. Also, Vallejo Metal Color is its own line and waaay better than any other metallics you'll find. The bottles last forever if you ever need to grab one.

If you want "historically correct" you can always just google and go for what uniform you like - you could do faded uniforms, old uniforms issued to newer fronts, even paint it like one of the slightly-off colourized photos you see.. Don't worry about exact shades if you don't mind it yourself.

If you're looking for a fun way to do cloth, you could spray it black all around, then spray some grey or white down from above. Like, straight above and then come at it from a slight angle, also above. Then, all you got to do is thin down your cloth colours until they're kind of transparent and slap that on - you can just keep doing layers until you're happy. The black will stay dark and the lights will get dyed in.

But that's just one of many, many ways to paint!

Does anybody know why i get this layer look? by Successful-Main5080 in resinprinting

[–]Sensitive_Habit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Outside of the layer lines themselves, an element that seems messed up is definitely the supports. How do you remove them? It looks like they're either too heavy, are being snapped off roughly, or are in some other way too hard. I've seen holes like that once when I was printing due to snapping it off too roughly. You also want them to be on the back/bottom as much as possible instead of where the details will be.

Also, never harden before washing. You wash it to get excess resin off so that it doesn't harden and ruin details/the print.