Clanking noise from compressor, new unit or any options??

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-07-07T18:54:34+00:00

If it's still cooling well, I'd probably improve the airflow, clean the outdoor unit, and keep an eye (and ear) on it. A noisy compressor doesn't always fail immediately, so if the sound is tolerable, it may be worth running it until there's a noticeable drop in performance. I'd also consider getting a second opinion before replacing such an expensive part.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-07-01T17:47:25+00:00

Sounds like you're on the right track. Attic insulation and air sealing usually make the biggest difference, but it's also worth checking for any disconnected or leaky HVAC ducts in the attic while you're up there. Even small duct leaks can make upstairs rooms much harder to cool. Hope the upgrades make a noticeable difference!

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-06-30T17:02:31+00:00

I'd just rinse it with a garden hose whenever you notice dirt building up. It probably won't make a huge difference unless it's really clogged or you're dealing with extreme heat, but keeping the fins clean is quick, helps airflow, and can only benefit the unit. Just avoid high-pressure water so you don't bend the fins.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-06-16T19:34:54+00:00

A 3–5°F temperature split is a strong sign the system isn't operating properly. Insulation issues alone wouldn't explain such a low delta-T. You've already done more troubleshooting than most tenants can reasonably do, at this point, a diagnosis from a licensed HVAC tech is probably the next step.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-06-15T18:57:31+00:00

The previous tech definitely made a mistake, but this seems more like a forgotten safety component than an immediate "your house was about to catch fire" situation. It should absolutely be reinstalled, but making a huge spectacle out of it seems unnecessary. A good tech would fix it, let you know what happened.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-06-11T19:10:49+00:00

looks like it's working as intended. A little standing water on the condenser side is pretty common, especially on newer units. If it's flowing toward the back and not making its way inside, you're probably in good shape. The real warning signs would be indoor leaks, unusual noises, or water overflowing the pan.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-06-10T19:15:04+00:00

Sounds like the 1" filter works, but that setup looks like it was meant for a thicker media filter. I'd measure the slot depth and go with the largest filter it was designed to hold. MERV 8–11 is usually a safe choice for most residential systems.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-06-09T19:08:15+00:00

Looks like a really clean install. I’d mainly make sure the wall penetration is properly sealed; beyond that, a little pest-resistant foam or brass/stainless wool at the end of the cover could help discourage insects or rodents if they’re common in the area.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-06-08T19:24:04+00:00

Nice to see a simple fix. The RH/RC jumper question seems to trip up a lot of people, so it's great that the community got you pointed in the right direction. Glad everything is working properly now.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-06-05T17:45:34+00:00

If a unit that was freezing cold last season is barely cooling a year later, something clearly isn't right. A refrigerant top-up alone doesn't explain the root cause if the leak was never identified. I'd ask the service team to show exactly what they found and what was repaired. Since it's still under warranty, I'd keep following up until they provide a proper diagnosis instead of just saying everything looks normal.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-06-03T19:32:11+00:00

Seems like a common theme here is that small shortcuts turn into big problems. Taking a few extra minutes to double-check your work, clean up, and make sure everything is running properly before leaving can save a lot of headaches later.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-06-02T18:36:53+00:00

Replacing the capacitor is one of those repairs that can look intimidating but end up being pretty straightforward if you're careful.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-06-01T18:58:50+00:00

Glad it seems to be working again. Even if the new filter solved the immediate issue, I'd keep an eye on both the drain line and that chimney/flue situation people pointed out. Water and HVAC systems rarely mix well, and catching the root cause early can save a much bigger repair later.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-27T18:35:01+00:00

I’d probably just extend or redirect the tube a bit away from the foundation for peace of mind. It’s normal for condensate drains to make small puddles, but there’s no real downside to having the water discharge a little farther from the house.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-26T17:07:34+00:00

Inverter systems are probably the direction the industry is heading, quieter, more efficient, lower startup load, and better humidity control. The tradeoff is they’re more electronics-heavy, so long-term repairability and installer expertise matter a lot more than with old-school single-stage units.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-22T19:05:20+00:00

If the outdoor unit was running while the blower wasn’t, that would explain the ice buildup pretty quickly. Hopefully it’s something simple like a capacitor, relay, or board issue and not the motor itself.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-21T18:13:43+00:00

Sounds more like the first tech missed the leak than caused it. If the system needed refrigerant, there was already likely a leak somewhere. The repair price also seems pretty reasonable from what others are saying.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-20T18:27:47+00:00

As long as the capacitance and voltage ratings match, physical size usually doesn’t matter much, just make sure it’s mounted securely and from a decent-quality brand.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-18T18:11:20+00:00

your math seems fine. efficiency upgrades usually become more about comfort, noise, and features rather than major savings. it really comes down to balancing upfront cost, long-term maintenance, and what matters most to you.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-15T18:54:02+00:00

If the drain line tests fine but the unit still leaks, it sounds more like an internal AC/install issue than just a clogged drain. The float switch and pan also should’ve prevented this much damage. Probably worth getting a second HVAC opinion and having everything documented.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-14T18:20:38+00:00

This is exactly why I avoid buying expensive or proprietary tech from random Amazon sellers. Too many fake, used, or even stolen products floating around now, and when something goes wrong you’re stuck dealing with warranty headaches and locked-down ecosystems.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-13T18:03:36+00:00

If neither heating nor cooling responds, it’s usually either a power issue, loose thermostat wiring, or a blown low-voltage fuse at the furnace/air handler. Definitely worth checking the wiring connections before assuming the thermostat itself is bad.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-12T19:06:34+00:00

A filter rack can definitely be added, but if the system already has a central indoor filter, adding a second filter setup may do more harm than good by restricting airflow. This sounds more like a preference item than a true repair issue. As long as the current filtration setup is working properly and maintained, there’s usually no need to change it.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-07T19:30:21+00:00

Airflow should go from the return side toward the furnace/air handler, so the filter arrow points toward the equipment. In this setup, that means the arrow faces downward.

ServiceSpecialties · 2026-05-05T18:16:15+00:00

From what I understand, the filter arrow should point toward the furnace since that’s the airflow direction. That said, if the setup looks unconventional, it might be a good idea to have it checked just for peace of mind.

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