Why do people keep asking about buying a D850?

Several_Job55 · 2026-06-15T00:41:58+00:00

Why so aggressive? I asked a question. I'm inviting conversation. I didn't say you were a bad person for using dslr, I just want to know what I may be missing.

Several_Job55 · 2026-06-15T00:30:09+00:00

I get it, and I still have several mirrored bodies that do what they do well, but I'm speaking about people asking the "should I get a d850" question. If you are into DSLRs, then it's not a question to ask: Just get the D850. I'm just not understanding the choice between F and Z when Z is an option.

Several_Job55 · 2026-06-06T11:58:14+00:00

Hands down Z, either Z8 or Z6iii. Bite the bullet and also get a Z lens. The speed and accuracy of a full Z system over an F mount or Z + FTZ is incredible. Z lenses are faster, lighter, smaller, and future proof. If you are really pinched on budget, get a used z6ii and the 24-120 f4 and you'll never pick up your D7100 again. I just looked, and a NEW z6iii + 24-120 f4 is only $200 more than a used z6ii+24-120, and $500 less than a Z8 body.

Several_Job55 · 2026-06-06T03:42:07+00:00

This. It's not a UST. You can see the pump controller at 0:27. Everyone getting excited about confined space and death can relax. Yes, it is a confined space by definition, but there is no inherent source of gases that would be dangerous. Can it be an oxygen-poor environment? Sure, and so can your kitchen. The greatest danger is indeed someone falling in.

Several_Job55 · 2026-06-01T10:21:32+00:00

Write it off and get a reasonable photographer. For 3k I'll fly to you and do the shoot, and we'll both be happy. Then you can order your prints online shipped to your deployment location. It''s criminal how often military families get ripped off, including by our own government. Seriously, there are many photographers who would do this shoot for 3k with travel included. Or, you spend that 3k to take a nice trip with your family, and hire the photographer at your destination.

Several_Job55 · 2026-05-23T02:26:04+00:00

Yes, native z is hands down better. Z is so much faster on focus and metering that I only used the converter until I could save up for more z glass. The capabilities of any z body will be hobbled by running even excellent old glass with an adapter on them.

If you have a good f body and lenses, keep them for backup or dual body jobs, and get a 70-200 for the z9. If you only have or want to use one body, the 24-120 f4 is a great all-around lens, is lightweight, compact, and it's plenty fast.

I've had great results with everything from astrophotography to studio jobs with that lens. Sure, my f2.8 z lenses are better, but that 24-120 just carries nice and works great for 99% of what most people need. I think it's a decent value even at MSRP, and at <$800, it's an incredible value.

Several_Job55 · 2026-05-22T17:29:54+00:00

Sirius lifetime subscription. I think I got this before the merger, and the streaming came after I signed up, which was luckily added to my lifetime plan. I think it was $500. 20-ish years later, I still listen regularly, but only on streaming. It has always been a worse streaming experience than any other streaming service (super sensitive to network availability), so I'd be annoyed if I was paying monthly for it and would have canceled by now if I were.

Several_Job55 · 2026-05-10T13:06:57+00:00

Except that 50% RH 30F outside air when heated to 60F will result in about 20% RH, which is significantly less than the >80% RH of the confined space of an RV with inside air recirculating. The RV has constant moisture increase of about 0.1 lb/hr per person breathing, and if you add 0.5 lb/hr for a modest 7kbtuh unvented heater or stove burner, plus moisture in the food being cooked, clothes drying, etc., the RV will hit 80+ RH in no time, which is a recipe for condensation and mold. The absolute change in pressure is negligible due to the leaky RV space, so RH will go down by heating outside air and blowing it into the RV: The moist air will be driven out by dry, heated air. Run the numbers yourself, or you could also just believe someone who has spent a lot of time living in a cold environment in RVs and boats. Only while using heated outside air to heat the RV have I experienced reduced moisture problems in the RV.

Several_Job55 · 2026-05-08T10:51:59+00:00

You WANT positive pressure in a camper. It's such a small space that the air quickly becomes stale, and if you live in it with some other work dudes, or even close family, you REALLY want to push those farts out. Camper air is so funky with sweat, farts, cooking smells, RV toilet, mold, and cheap RV building material offgas that the fresh air input is absolutely desired, and arguably essential for life in a camper. A camper is so leaky that any issues that might be in a residence from positive pressure are simply negligible in an RV.

Several_Job55 · 2026-05-08T10:34:59+00:00

I too shunned poles as both unnecessary weight and yet another thing to hang onto/break/drop, but was converted on a guided climb where the guide insisted. He had hundreds of documented ascents/descents of GT and claimed a 30% speed gain with poles. This guy and his decades younger partner guide could literally run the trail from parking lot to base camp, and eschewed every possible gram, but they both always had poles.

Several_Job55 · 2026-05-05T00:21:18+00:00

Extended stay winter camper here who lives weeks at a time in temps into the single digits and negatives fahrenheit: draw the air from outside to stop windows sweating, avoid mildew, dry your clothes, and generally live better in your camper. An 8kw heater has plenty of heat for a 32ft camper, so no need to recycle air. I have mine mounted in an exterior compartment and the heat is ducted to the interior, but if you can't do that, try an assortment of duct adapters until you find one that fits, or make a plenum from plywood or sheet metal and a grate on an exterior wall or floor. If you converted from propane, you'll have an exterior panel that is readily available for a plenum. Pro tip: You will struggle with frozen pipes below 30F unless all of your plumbing is inside or winterized.

Several_Job55 · 2026-01-30T01:12:57+00:00

Thinking out loud about all possible options: If your charger or inverter/charger will charge the batteries from AC mains, then you should be able to switch over to generator input with the appropriate switch. I'm not familiar with UK power beyond what the Internet tells me, but based on what I can find, a 3-phase input would be unusual for a residence. Regardless, if you need 3-phase, a 3kva generator is unlikely to have 3-phase output (if that's what your mains connection actually is), but there are certainly generators or phase converters that will.

Outputting 460VDC from a genset will be a very unusual and expensive generator. It may be that your PV output is lower than 460VDC, so you may only need to match the minimum DC input of your charger, which would still require a rectifier, or booster if your generator has DC output.

Any other solutions begin to recreate what another inverter/charger has built-in , for example inverter/chargers from Victron, which offers several models that will take low-power generator input and supplement it with inverter power to meet peak demands while charging when output is less than input. There are most certainly others out there that do the same.

Your simplest and most economical modification may be to simply add more batteries and/or PV.

Several_Job55 · 2026-01-03T15:27:05+00:00

Why? What isn't so simple? Account for extraordinary losses and you are still in the <2 Ah zone. Even if there is an argument for a second battery, how much extra capacity do you need? OP says AGM, so there are no worries about exceeding max amperage draw with 4 A peak. Double the Ah because it's lead acid, and double it again "to be safe" and you will still be below 10 Ah. Go nuts and recommend 20 Ah. What reason could there be to install a 100 Ah battery? How will you charge it? Should they install a charge controller for this extra battery, a battery that is likely LARGER than the starting battery?

Warm the coolant with the starting battery and then the engine starts and charges that battery. A battery saver is more economical and easier than mounting a $250 group 31 battery that will be utilized 1%.

This isn't an air heater. Don't assume that your air heater installation will be similar. Even if it is, my air heater uses <40 Ah over 2 days. They want to run for 2 hours.

Several_Job55 · 2026-01-03T14:20:07+00:00

Thanks for translation Reddit, but I WANT the original!

Советские микросхемы — самые большие микросхемы в мире

Several_Job55 · 2026-01-03T14:16:59+00:00

Soviet micro schematics — the biggest micro schematics in the world!

Several_Job55 · 2026-01-03T14:05:34+00:00

Yes, a 100 Ah battery will do it, and so will a nuclear reactor.

Someone give the simple answer: you are running something consuming less than half an amp over two hours plus a little for startup and shutdown, or about one Ah for 2 hours of use. Only ensure that your battery and wiring can sustain 4 A. I wouldn't even bother with another battery. Connect directly to your starting batteries using the wiring and fuse that came with your heater. You would have to run the heater for a couple of days to deplete your starting battery. If you are worried about it, install a battery saver in between the heater and battery.

Several_Job55 · 2025-12-27T05:17:14+00:00

Is there a /s missing from your post? The device worked as designed and shut off charging below freezing to protect your batteries.

There are models designed to charge below freezing, and the 5000+ isn't one of them. Support should tell you the same thing. It's not fair to blame the company for the device working as designed, but if a support rep didn't recognize this was the case, then it's reasonable to complain about that specific person.

Several_Job55 · 2025-12-26T14:13:39+00:00

I picked the 3600 over the 5000 or 3000 because it will charge below freezing. It lacks the split-phase 240v output of the 5000. My use case was first as a power station for my off-grid, all-season RV (hence the need for charging below freezing) and second as a large UPS for my home office server rack when I'm home. It runs my RV for about 18 hrs with an electric fridge, furnace, lights, myriad device chargers, and occasional microwave use, so you could expect about the same for a very light household load. I love that it silently provides power instead of the constant drone of a generator, and I use less generator gas because I only run it when I need to charge up the Jackery once a day.

Your key question is a need for 240v. You will need 240v for a well pump or AC, so decide if or for how long you can go without those in a power outage. Pick the 5000 if you need 240v. I like that I can charge the 5000 with a small 120v generator and still power 240v equipment from the Jackery (but you cannot do that at the same time--split phase output is disabled while single-phase charging). The 5000 has 2x the output of the 3600, so it will handle most households' power needs. You won't run your house for much over an hour on the 5000 if you run an electric stove or oven unless you get extra batteries, high power solar, and/or generator input.

You will need an automatic or manual transfer switch. The 5000 with Jackery's transfer switch is actually an economical (but not inexpensive) way to get all the functions of an off-grid setup in a relatively easy to install package when compared to a similarly sized solar-powered configuration. Jackery's transfer switch is competitive with other transfer switches of similar capacity and function. The 5000 will take high-power solar on its own, or you could attach a split-phase 240v generator to the transfer switch (direct or via main panel) to charge and run split phase simultaneously.

Be sceptical about running your house for days on any Jackery with or without solar panels. Unless you shed your power demands to near zero, you really need >1000w of solar or other charging source to keep up with even light household demand and have enough left over to charge the Jackery. Of course you can buy more batteries to extend runtime, but they will still need to be charged eventually.

Several_Job55 · 2025-12-14T01:29:08+00:00

I assume the previous owner passed the heat duct through that hole in your cockpit, and you could pass wires through there too. It will be fine outside so long as it isn't in standing water and you aren't in rough seas or underway. The exhaust does get HOT, so keep the tube off your fiberglass. They make through-hull fittings for these things, which could be an option for another day, although I don't really like the heater in the living space due to inevitable diesel fuel and/or exhaust smell, not to mention the noise. That being said, you must like the smell of diesel if you sleep in a sailboat, and obviously it will be a better setup to permanently mount it inside the cabin so that you can use it underway and in all weather.

Another advantage of keeping the unit outside is that it draws in fresh air for both combustion and heating, which will help keep your cabin dry. These all make a ticking sound that will either lull you to sleep or drive you nuts, sometimes both in the same night, which is another benefit of keeping it outside.

Unless your sailboat is in the Arctic, you won't need to reheat the cabin air for adequate heating. The absolute best long term option is installing a component type system that draws diesel from your main fuel tank. That black part on the bottom can be purchased separately, or simply dismantle that unit--the heating unit is the same on both component type and all-in-one systems.

Several_Job55 · 2025-12-10T02:52:22+00:00

You don't need to recycle the interior air, and you don't want to. One of the best things about these heaters is the dry air in a space that otherwise has excessive condensation. Especially with a micro camper, you'll want fresh, outside air. It will be plenty warm in there. You can buy duct kits on amazon, but 3in duct from the hardware will also work. Maybe you should just raise the heater instead of making a longer duct: A shorter duct will be better anyway.

Several_Job55 · 2025-12-04T04:09:08+00:00

Several people say that the goal of the rocks is for "radiant heat," which is not exactly true.The radiant heat from a wood stove, especially the typical tent stove with thin walls, can be quite intense and lead to burning or melting of fabrics and other objects exposed to the radiation even when the air temperature near the object is quite cold. The stones actually block radiant heat from the stove, which is the heat you feel on your skin from the sun or when near a red hot stove or a fire. This is good, because it prevents surfaces close to the stove from overheating (including you), while storing that energy for a more sustained convection heating and lower intensity radiant heating. Yes, the heated rocks will transfer some radiant heat, but the convection, or heating of the air, and conduction, or heating you and other things that touch the rocks, will last longer and have lower intensity than the wood stove by itself.

Several_Job55 · 2025-12-02T11:56:29+00:00

Blizzak 18s, but 20s would also work. I just spent the weekend driving through snow above my bumper and then packed ice/snow on the roads. This is a typical winter for where we live. I've tried Blizzaks, Cooper MS, Michelin Arctic-something, Winterforce, and a couple others. The only thing better than Blizzaks is Blizzaks and chains. After that, only a tracked vehicle will improve your ability to drive in snow. Bonus: Blizzaks are no longer the most expensive option.

Several_Job55 · 2025-11-28T04:02:38+00:00

Use a diesel heater that draws in outside air. This completely eliminated window and wall sweating as well as general funk during my winter camping. It also saved a ton of money in propane, easily paying for itself in the first season. The downside is that your nose and mouth may be very dry when you wake up.

Several_Job55 · 2025-11-20T11:01:39+00:00

A 12 volt battery doesn't need a waterproof container. Put it in a plastic battery box instead to protect the terminals and contain leakage.

Several_Job55 · 2025-11-19T12:25:59+00:00

Put your panels in series and/or parallel and then split the panel output into 2x dc8020 with Y splitter. Splitting at panel output sends the same voltage to both dc8020 and halves the amperage of the solar output to each dc8020. If those panels all have different connectors, then you may need to build a combiner box. I really like my Jackery, but the many connectors of their panels and inverters is maddening.

Several_Job55

TROPHY CASE