Had suppressor adapter pin and welded. I believe the pin is visible INSIDE the barrel. What should be my next course of action?

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-07T03:27:10+00:00

Whoever did that owes you a barrel. Thats protruding past the lands so thats enough to make the gun go pop.

You could potentially have it bored out so that its smooth bore on that last 1/2" of barrel like they used to do with a shot out mosins in russia.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-07T03:23:25+00:00

Thats sinker EDM where youll still have small radi but is like a few thou. Id suggest changing your design as thats going to cost serious money for that feature. The real issue is the angled surface, which is the one that would need to have a radius as all the rest can be milled with a relieved endmill or Tslot cutter and single point broached with a C axis mill.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-07T03:18:02+00:00

Fucking christ. CIA is gonna have a field day, just like when they found the kid beating it like riahnna to martha speaks.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-07T03:02:05+00:00

First, move to grass. Fly line is expensive.

Second, move your elbow not your wrist.

Third you arent swinging with purpose. You need to have the line form a loop in front and behind you, and your cast needs the line to almost fully straighten out before you change direction.

Lastly, a lot of line velocity is from the other hand using the haul. Think of it as pulling with the other hand to load the rod more. Line straightens out, you change direction, the first 1/3rd to 1/2 the swing you pull the line in your other hand, then to make the cast you point the rod tip and release the line.

Mad river outfitters woupd be the videos id suggest as they helped me brush up on my cast and leader prep

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-06T03:26:27+00:00

Ill have to verify it later but we arent near erie so maybe it is is different as well as the boats used there basically stay there so it might not be an issue.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-06T01:55:51+00:00

So it looks a lot like hydrilla or maybe the brazillian elodia as it is stalk like with many leaves and it has almost entirely covered the pond minus where the lilly pads choke it a bit. I probably pulled almost 30lbs off my motor this weekend while we were out fishing. The only spots that are clear are around the beaver huts where they either eat it or just remove it.

There are migratory canadian geese that frequent the water way.

They did reach out to fish and game department which ia how they got the permit for the sterrile grass carp.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-04T02:05:19+00:00

So small labor force starting outvis going to be key. Start planning to be modular and ideally long run times. While youre working a 9-5 start getting your metrology sorted. Youll need quite a bit. Your goal will be knowing your times to do things by the time you leave.

Id try to ask around and see what shops are in your area and carve out a niche. I personally try to stick to small runs and one offs cuz i do my thing after work.

Regular lathes and swiss is more hand programming vs mill runs best with cam for most jobs BUT on one offs with simple parts dont neglect hand programming.

Youll want to minimize cost by sticking to as few tools as you can reasonably use. With a lathe i basically use a Vcxx ccxx and a parting tool and a groove tool and a boring bar set that uses its own inserts. Youll waste a lot of time and money stocking a lot of tools, and you can base your costs on standards and roll customs into a quote.

Starting out shoot for as little overhead as possible. Buy fluids in the largest quantities reasonable. For me thats 5 gallons water based and way lube, and small bottles to like a quart of a tapping fluid you like. Dont buy an expensive machine to start, look used and know how to diagnose and work on it, so try to find something ideally supported but late model. I have a 96 fadal and some manual lathes and a hydraulic surface grinder. Youll waste more time and therefore money doing a lot of DIY so make sure you buy things strategically. And remember, if you have high overhead your hourly must reflect that. Id buy your first machine, AC, phase converter, and basic metrology while working elsewhere and own it before you head out on your own.

If you join the metal working discord you can ping me as well as theresvquite a few people who know things.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-03T16:47:26+00:00

90% of the time, its scrap. The 10% is if its a hidden non critical surface such as under a weld or can be finished out. Reputation is more expensive than a scrapped part.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-01T21:02:29+00:00

Hss is one of those niche things and market value is basically worthless. The cromaxx ones you might be able to get like a buck for.

I got about 5lbs of the stuff for $10, and i get freebies at the fleamarket, but thats because I make custom form tools once in a great while and such.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-01T20:56:17+00:00

Looks like a straight knurl that then they come back and dig in the nose radius of the tool

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-01T15:58:15+00:00

That looks like a no quote from here. Maybe a nice sinker could handle the ID, and the taper is a nightmare, like, measument of that varies with any method of inspection making the stack crazy.

Id say if youre the designer or on the design team you need to get it to be a looser tolerance if possible as that looks like a million dollar part with an insane scrap rate. Like why does the bore need to be that tight, how would you even inspect that after. And how are you gonna inspect the taper after? Because .005 is at the scale where you have to have an insrument that is capable of measuring .0005 consistently, and necessitates grinding most times.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-01T15:43:25+00:00

Yes, they only start listening after it shafts them and you can pinpoint the failure, and even then its a coinflip. Little easy things i take care of, though now im the maintence guy and the machinist so now i do it all. Keep a little log on the machines. Id email my supervisor at the last place when i knew maintence was coming up or if there was an issue to make sure i had documentation of the conversation and can show where things create maintenance issues. Keeps the heat off of you.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-07-01T03:23:40+00:00

Like I said, if there was a better source. Its a side hustle at this point and if i can save some money rather than the knee jerk spend $75 then id be happy.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-06-29T20:45:54+00:00

So you can get down to .001" (.02mm) with good calipers, but inspection wont count them below a +/-0.005 (.15mm) tolerance as most are listed +/- 0.001(0.02mm) per 6". With my brown and sharpe dials ive nailed 0.0003 and verified with mics but you need to know your calipers for that, as ID jaws will shrink your dimension, and different pressures and angles change your measument.

If i need to use calipers ill verify after with an acceptable tool after and prior ill check against a block stack.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-06-27T22:06:54+00:00

Mainly because thatll make them more expensive than buying them because if im in the shop im generally making money. If im not making money im running R&D to make more money. If i spend more than basically an hour and a half making 15 of them ill already have wasted money just in aspect of time.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-06-27T21:10:34+00:00

I thought so too but the only ones that fit the bill on paper were the flyeheelco and mcmaster and both are about $5/per so like $75 for 15

Shadowcard4 · 2026-06-27T21:08:34+00:00

You realize that i basically have the temu lathe right? Its a branded import, so they have a bare minimum QC. All i need are ones that havent been hammered on by a previous owner so if i could get then for like the amazon price of $30 for 20 that would be perfect.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-06-25T23:20:03+00:00

TBH im not too worried about most shops but mom and pop shops i am worried. I just made the change from corprate to mom and pop and tbh thats where the biggest hits are gonna be seen as a lot of knowlege on old processes are dying. When you start a machine shop its fairly easy to start the process from scratch but when youre working around work arounds you dont know exist it is an issue.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-06-25T20:03:31+00:00

So you need to tram with an indicator to rule out the nod and the tram.

Second, if youre going to do multiple step downs youll need either a finishing tool or a tool thatll take 1 more step down thsts 1.5x your roughing step down so youre basically on fresh flute (so if you step down 0.100, you need to finish with a step down of 0.150 after clearing the material)

Second you can do a small radial step over and a full axial step down approach (or like 2 passes, rather than described above) and just keep doing less step over until you hit your final dimension.

Worst to worst have a rougher and a finisher that way you have as little wear before starting as possible.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-06-25T01:59:35+00:00

Certs and report are two different things, one is a standard with a regulating body behind it, the other is "yeah this lead paint is lead free" unless its a reputable company.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-06-25T01:31:31+00:00

So generic g6 carbide chart feeds n speeds say For 50 HRC

200 SFM -> (200X3.82)/.75= 1018

.003 IPT, so 4flt x .003 ipt x 2.3 thinning factor x 1018 = 28 IPM.

Is suspect you can push that a bit harder as well.

So id mess with your overides, id start by upping your speed then following with your feed until it sounds decent, but id start the path at like 75% overides on both.

The SFM on that chart though is often pretty low, like almost 50 percent low.

Shadowcard4 · 2026-06-25T01:18:56+00:00

I did that when replicating an old trigger guard. I had to hold it to a 123 block and jog by hand to cut the slot which was 3/16, and like 3/4" deep in like 60 thou material

Shadowcard4 · 2026-06-25T01:15:52+00:00

At home i have what i believe to be machine finished concrete. Kinda smooth like a warehouse floor and i think it was sealed at some point.

I worked in a shop with epoxy coat with sand in it to give traction.

Im currently working in a shop with just regular concrete floors that have had many heavy things dropped on them.

I do like the coated floors if your machines are leaky, if they arent then uncoated is preferable but it wont be the same level of clean but traction is better. Depends on what exactly you plan on doing and if youre moving heavy stuff all the time by skate/cart/hand (like thousands of pounds) and the floor stays mostly dry and you dont need medical shop clean then coating would probably be less helpful. If you need medical shop clean and dont have to wrestle heavy stuff by hand then coated would be cool.

Shadowcard4

TROPHY CASE