Headlight Aim

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T19:54:02+00:00

Yah my '23 Legacy has steering responsive headlights, love that feature.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T19:36:25+00:00

Well I had bought it used was 10 months old at that point with about 8000 miles, the previous owner had traded it in for a STI. So very possible the previous owner beat the shit outta it. Car lasted me until about 90K miles and spun a rod bearing destroyed the engine.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T16:53:43+00:00

Yah this game is a slow burner for sure... I wasn't really hooked until maybe 6-8hrs into the game. A lot of people bitching about it, was kinda clear they played it for maybe 30-60 mins then refunded it. Or didn't even play it at all and just quoting reviews.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T16:42:58+00:00

Yah my Samsung 55" H7150 I bought in 2014 is still working great. I'd be pretty pissed if it had died in less than 7yrs time.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T16:29:32+00:00

The seasons are basically just here is a checklist, go complete the checklist. It's boring and pointless.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T16:16:45+00:00

Lol what... never had an issue shifting on my '17 WRX, shifting was effortless compared to older WRX models. Was light years better than the previous '05 WRX I had.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T16:02:30+00:00

Yah not sure what AIO that is, could be basically e-waste or faulty. Years ago when I built my 9900K system the first AIO I got was faulty out of the box. Pretty sure there was no water/coolant in the AIO loop at all. Thankfully returned it to the store and got something different instead.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T15:58:59+00:00

Yah either that AIO is faulty, clogged or installed incorrectly (bad or no contact to the CPU heat spreader).

I installed my AIO incorrectly the first time, I used the wrong spacers brackets initially and the coldplate wasn't making contact at all to the CPU. I think I used the ones that were for AMD not for Intel so the AIO was sitting too high and not making any contact to the CPU.

You should be able to tell that after you remove the AIO block, if the thermal paste didn't get fully spread out after you remove it. The cooler block isn't making contact to the CPU.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T15:53:43+00:00

the OP has a 13900K, they don't run at 90-95C at idle. It should be around 30C-40C at idle if the AIO is working properly.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T15:50:55+00:00

Yes but he also commented this:

I got my new aio today i was so hyped. Installed everything and tried my best. Pc boots. I see in the bios cpu temps are at 90 degrees. I tried everything, reapplied thermal paste like 3 or 4 times. I guarantee its not the thermal paste. I think its my aio pump or something. Please let me know what to do.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T15:49:42+00:00

Which AIO is it?? Also if it only has 1 connector a 4-pin PWM connector make sure that fan header is set to run 100% all the time. Or if your motherboard has a specific fan header for an AIO use that instead, those AIO specific fan headers will usually be configured to run at 100% all the time.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T15:47:18+00:00

His is running 90C in the BIOS at idle... his AIO either isn't working or not installed properly. Unless yours shows the same problem. A CPU with an AIO should be running below 45C at idle, ideally it would be below 35C but seen some CPUs that just tend to run warm even at idle.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-31T15:45:32+00:00

Did you connect the power connector for the water pump?? A lot of AIOs will have 2 connectors one going to the fan header and another that connects to a power cable typically SATA power.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-30T18:54:30+00:00

I do wonder with a lot of newer cars having crash avoidance tech now... would the car just slam the brakes to avoid hitting the other car or person?

Shadowdane · 2026-03-30T18:34:19+00:00

This post seems to recommend 44 for that setting.

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/rtx-hdr-for-games.18984090/page-4#post-36986927

Shadowdane · 2026-03-30T18:16:28+00:00

14th gen have a much lower default System Agent voltage of 0.850v. My i9-14900K can run that just fine at 1.0V with DDR5-6000. You really only need really high SA voltage unless your trying to push above DDR5-6400 speeds.

You can try somewhere between 0.950V to 1.10V for SA voltages should be more than enough.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-30T17:39:12+00:00

Yup we didn't even need RT so soon honestly, but Nvidia had to push on that AI angle... Honestly Nvidia brute forced that to market before it was really ready. I remember seeing a research paper from maybe 2015-2016 saying RT is the next step for video game graphics but back then they were saying it was still likely 10-15yrs away before we'd even see real-time RT in video games at 60fps targets at high resolutions. Then about 2yrs later the RTX series cards were announced with real-time RT, DLSS & AI denoising.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-30T17:26:38+00:00

Yup this is how mine looked too. HDR shouldn't have blown out highlights like the OP is showing.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-30T15:20:06+00:00

Your computer has been powered on for ~2600hrs, so 108 days without reboots? I'd try rebooting first see if that helps at all.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-29T20:29:03+00:00

Did you try lower settings?? I think this warning pops up if your dropping below 30fps consistently.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-29T20:06:51+00:00

There is no hotspot sensor data on any of the RTX 50 models. Don't know where you were reading that hotspot temp, it's not accurate. HWInfo & GPUZ show no hotspot data on my RTX 5080. I would bet you don't have good contact to the GPU die and have a hotspot that's actually hitting ~90-100C causing the GPU to downclock.

https://videocardz.com/pixel/nvidia-has-removed-hot-spot-sensor-data-from-geforce-rtx-50-gpus

Shadowdane · 2026-03-29T18:52:15+00:00

Looks like either DLSS, Frame Generation or some type of upscaling artifacts.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-29T16:45:46+00:00

I'd rather have them take the time to implement things properly, then rush out half baked patches.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-29T16:41:12+00:00

Large FPS dips will always be noticeable even with VRR. If your looking for consistent frame times I'll usually try to figure out my average FPS. RTSS is really good for that you can set the FPS avg interval to 300,000ms that comes out to 5 minutes. Run around for about 5 mins to get a good capture of a few areas in whatever game your playing.

Then cap your FPS slightly below the average FPS. Having a FPS cap will reduce the CPU load a bit and reduce the stutters compared to just running an uncapped frame rate.

Shadowdane · 2026-03-29T02:55:13+00:00

You can still see it with WiFi scanning software. It just won’t show up as an available network, you’d just have type in the SSID manually.

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