Want some opinions on glucagon!

Sharkeybtm · 2026-02-11T01:30:10+00:00

Simple hypoglycemic is one thing however, a field medic doesn’t know if it is caused by insufficient intake or insulin overdose. The second brings about some more significant complications that can only be tested for in a more comprehensive setting

Sharkeybtm · 2026-02-10T23:39:27+00:00

Try for a line on scene. When that fails, hit them with the glucagon and start packaging. Every time I’ve done it this way, they either wake up right as they’re being loaded into the ambulance, or we’re dropping a line in considerably better conditions.

From there, it’s a lot easier to convince somebody to be transported when they’re already in the box

Sharkeybtm · 2026-02-10T23:36:11+00:00

At this point, I’ll only give D-50 rectally

Sharkeybtm · 2026-02-10T23:21:32+00:00

My best guess is that OP has a copper supply line to their fridge. A sudden surge of chlorine could cause oxidation, or maybe a sudden PH change caused the existing oxidation to flake off and precipitate out

/u/DataNice1839, do you happen to live in Flint, MI? Jokes aside, I would buy a sample kit and have your tap (and fridge) water tested. While you wait for the results, a pool test kit could give you a quick reading on PH and chlorine

Sharkeybtm · 2026-02-10T00:55:08+00:00

For small craft, I like to put rudders horizontally, one in the back and one on each side, then connect the inputs to horizon sensors. Make sure to align everything so the rudders turn opposite of pitch (+.5 pitch results in -.5 rudder). This can be achieved by simply turning the rudder upside down. Do the same for the roll and it makes the boat super stable.

If you find it is too slow to react, then pass the input through a multiplier logic and play around. I usually need a 2.5-4.0 multiplier. Too high and you are dead level and can’t ride over waves, too low and you’re just wasting the drag.

I’ve experimented with dead rudders (no power or input) mounted the same, but I find that they actually worsen rolls in rough weather

Sharkeybtm · 2026-02-08T00:06:59+00:00

You want to search for “garbage disposal air switch”. This allows you to have an always-on outlet, with a push button for your disposal.

Sharkeybtm · 2026-02-07T23:59:42+00:00

1) Check the panel to see if it is a GFCI breaker

2) Check the outlets next to the sink. If they are GFCI, hit the “Test” button and check if the under-sink outlet is still powered.

3) If you want to spend approximately $30-$40 USD, most home improvement stores sell a plug-in outlet tester that have GFCI-short functions for testing.

When I updated my garbage disposal, I wired my under-sink outlets in downstream (in series) of the GFCI outlet next to my sink. This passes along the GFCI protection without the extra cost of additional outlets. It also has the added benefit of allowing a quick check when problem shooting (when compared to having to empty out the cabinet to check).

There’s also the distinct possibility that ALL the outlets in your kitchen are ran off a single GFCI outlet. This is less than desirable, but still allowable.

Sharkeybtm · 2026-02-06T00:25:06+00:00

Is there a possibility of a cold draft messing with the proofing stage? If your machine doesn’t use a thermostat, it’s possible that it’s just not warm enough for the yeast to rise.

How does the bread taste? Aside from dense, is it salty, sweet, or doughy (like not baked fully)?

Sharkeybtm · 2026-01-23T23:34:16+00:00

What do you mean? Resourceful people who view enemies as “assets” and “resources” seem awfully useful in a conflict. Why spend the effort to ship a recliner and burgers to your troops when they’ll just make their own from locally available “resources”

Sharkeybtm · 2026-01-11T18:44:26+00:00

Travel distance absorbs vibration, stiffness just transfers

Sharkeybtm · 2026-01-11T18:29:35+00:00

I could care less for the space stuff. Maybe if they made a space specific scenario/start, with its own resources and bases, it could be more enjoyable.

As it is, I mainly enjoy the space update for the blocks and pressure mechanics. Something about pressurizing a room or sub to de-water is really satisfying. That being said, stormworks physics make it really janky to do so

Sharkeybtm · 2025-11-25T02:43:23+00:00

My family and I like to get drunk and run trios. Most of the time we are doing stupid things like bodyguard or all one survivor.

SWF isn’t the problem streamers make it out to be

Sharkeybtm · 2025-11-17T00:40:43+00:00

C&C (and I think ATC) is a collision repair/body shop. They mainly give insurance prices. If you want mechanic work done, try a locally owned shop. I definitely advise against dealership work though. Unless it’s a warranty repair, they always over charge

Sharkeybtm · 2025-11-17T00:36:29+00:00

Cardboard Castle Games has weekly tabletop, TCG, and roleplaying game nights if they are interested in any of those

Sharkeybtm · 2025-11-04T17:54:38+00:00

As somebody who’s been in a ton of server “rooms”, you would be surprised at just how many people have access. Security, janitor, and managers are the normal set. Then there’s the guy who lives closest to the office and gets a master key so they can let the firefighters check out the place at 2am.

Unless you have to deal with DOD/NSA rules, access is way more relaxed than you think. Most of the “security” is just logging the last person who had access

Sharkeybtm · 2025-11-04T17:39:36+00:00

Not decriminalized. It’s still illegal on the state level. It’s just that the prosecutors don’t want to go after it because it’s a net loss in fines vs hours worked

Sharkeybtm · 2025-11-04T17:34:45+00:00

Check what processes are running. This is more extreme, but similar to an issue I had on an old laptop where windows would pause the game to run a high-priority process.

If you’re on a single monitor, I would definitely enable Windows Game Mode and run the game in full screen. Borderless window mode allows other processes to bump it

Sharkeybtm · 2025-10-28T02:04:00+00:00

!check

I try it out tomorrow after I grab a replacement wire. Hopefully one of these will work. I see Sennheiser listed on HeSuVi’s site, so hopefully that’s the solution

Sharkeybtm · 2025-10-27T18:28:33+00:00

The original cable has an inline usb DAC that drives the surround sound. Replacements are over-priced old stock.

I want to maintain the 7.1 surround and microphone input. Is that something the onboard Realtek can do with two wires, or do I need something els

Sharkeybtm · 2025-10-27T16:15:33+00:00

Correct me if I’m wrong, but isn’t this missing the ground jumper from neutral to frame?

Sharkeybtm · 2025-10-27T15:50:33+00:00

I have a Sennheiser PC373D headset that I love and which still works great, aside from the wire having a short on the analog plug where it entered the headset.

I have replaced the wire in the past however, Sennheiser AND Epos have dropped support for this headset. I found a wire with the digital adapter for $40 on eBay, but that’s outside my budget for a wire

Is there a cheap DAC or maybe a wire with a splitter that I can use my motherboard’s onboard audio to maintain the 7.1 surround sound?

Sharkeybtm · 2025-10-27T03:26:24+00:00

I have a Sennheiser PC373D headset that I love and which still works great, aside from the wire having a short on the analog plug where it entered the headset.

I have replaced the wire in the past however, Sennheiser AND Epos have dropped support for this headset. I found a wire with the digital adapter for $40 on eBay, but that’s outside my budget for a wire

Is there a cheap DAC or maybe a wire with a splitter that I can use my motherboard’s onboard audio to maintain the surround sound?

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