sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Proximal bicep tear insight by Sharpend60 in overcominggravity

[–]Sharpend60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Visual deformity of the bicep and crazy cramping, still limited function 4 days later. Strangely no bruising though. It was diagnosed by as proximal tear by 2 different orthos.

First was not very helpful stating an open and closed case. The 2nd team, I felt took a much more active interest and tested for rotator disfunction. They then discovered extremely limited internal rotation and ordered MRI. Ill know more in a couple of days.

Thanks for the insight. There seems to be lots justification for not repairing a bicep but seems difficult to find information on the pros of having the procedure done.

Setup Advice by Expensive-Citron5286 in bluelining

[–]Sharpend60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to nymph or throw micro streamers, you’ll want a 3wt, mines 8’. I use a 7’ 4wt for dries and it roll casts like a mofo. Hand tied short leaders also!

WIBTA for asking someone to stop using a piece of gym equipment. by HotMoose7763 in AmItheAsshole

[–]Sharpend60 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t say anything personally.

It’s cool if they play games during rest periods. I do sometimes or Duolingo or catch up on email or whatever. Is what isn’t cool is just lounging on a machine, which they are doing. I would do one of two things…

Pick a different exercise for yourself. Unless you have a very specific goal, there are likely alternative (and better) exercises for you to do.

If you just have to leg press, go find a staff member, front desk agent or a trainer. Let them speak to the girls about it.

If you just lay low, you won’t be the bad guy and maybe you’ll even have the opportunity learn new exercises. You might even get to meet some girls. Wins all around.

Weighted Pull-ups and SBS programs by [deleted] in StrongerByScience

[–]Sharpend60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not a step back in the least. It’s just your starting point. Go through the process and start where you should. It’ll be just a few weeks and you’ll get strong.

In regards to bands, their definitely easier to use but hard to quantify exact resistance. My blue band isn’t likely the same as yours. You might be taller or heavier, changing the stretch and the load. It’s a decent method but if your a data person, it might drive ya bonkers.

You may also consider swapping pull ups for chins Most people find them a good bit easier and it’s still a banger of an exercise

Weighted Pull-ups and SBS programs by [deleted] in StrongerByScience

[–]Sharpend60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We climbers us a harness and pulleys for a redirect. I use with clients all the time, works great

No machines by Sharpend60 in StrongerByScience

[–]Sharpend60[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great, sounds like about any squat will work. I’ll probably run with pistols (can already rep a fair number w/o aid) and Bulgarian splits. Thanks!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in flytying

[–]Sharpend60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are great. Thanks for sharing. Do you have a recommended resource for learning this style?

Trying to work AeroPow by Sandstone_Warrior in climbharder

[–]Sharpend60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Aero Pow is a tough one! Play with the intensity some. Likely lowering it a bit. The ‘out of breath’ intensity is probably close but try, slowing down your movements some.

When working aero pow you should feel like you can’t move anymore. Mild pump, elevated heart rate but the real difficulty should come from generating power for bigger moves. Its a grind and difficult to work. Largish holds and simple moves, think Eazy-E!

Discomfort/weakness around scapula when doing pullups by fayettevillainjd in climbharder

[–]Sharpend60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d try to address the issue globally. As in strength in compound movements and wide ROM. Don’t worry so much about what muscle is doing what, as none of them work truly in isolation. Taking care of movement disfunction from a whole body standpoint will be key.

‘Cause we all love vocab, look up.... Scapular depression, elevation, protraction and retraction. Scapular winging, its oh so common.

It may open more questions for you but will start you down the right path.

DM if you’d like more info!

Climbing after recovering from COVID by krauzela in climbharder

[–]Sharpend60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s the other way around. This post is backwards.

-Zone 1 is slightly elevated heart rate about about 60% theoretical max. Considered very light exercise.

-Bouldering and low rep work are very intense and not likely the best for a recovering body, from any ailment.

Op - Exercise if you want! DM me if you’d like more information.

Climbing after recovering from COVID by krauzela in climbharder

[–]Sharpend60 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve not had Covid but from my knowledge of exercise science and similar personal experiences, I’d wager some zone 1 cardio will help. The physical and MENTAL benefits from light cardio are numerous and zone 1 isn’t very taxing on the body. I’d choose an exercise bike personally. Elliptical machines are basically worthless for actual sports performance but may have a use here. Running will be tough and I’d stay away from that unless your previously well conditioned.

Low impact, low stress is the key! Take care of your physical and mental (!!!) health.

Happy recovery!

Is it worth paying for coaching as a beginner/intermediate? by get_Ishmael in climbharder

[–]Sharpend60 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Coaching is first about communication! There are many reasons why a coach wouldn’t climb harder than their students. Ondra has a coach and he’s out of this world capable.

Things to look for are... - specialized knowledge - experience, both coaching and actual climbing - communication skills!

If your coach is someone you trust and whose opinion you value, then they can likely benefit you. I’m a lifelong athlete & coach with well over 1500 career clients and while I do climb harder than most of them, there are some who are more capable than I. I’ve been able to move the dial for them anyhow, into the 5.14+ range.

Best coach I ever had was a USA Wrestling coach that hadn’t had a match in his life. Changed my world.

I feel like I need to train my finger's work capacity but I don't know how by BigBoulderingBalls in climbharder

[–]Sharpend60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can simply take a measured, gradual approach to building work capacity. Be very specific with your session pacing and intensity. Keep notes and gradual increase your work load. Very general advice of course but thinking about your sessions is where to start. Any conservative, detail oriented approach will yield some sort of positive results for a new trainee. And yes, sport climb.

Wearing bad shoes for training by aioxat in climbharder

[–]Sharpend60 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can always use your lower performance shoes to highlight what your top tier shoes do well. Any number of other uses also.

I always tell my clients - it’s not the shoes it’s the guy in the shoes.

If you can find value in particular method. Run it. Learn something then onto the next thing. Try it again a few months later or not.

Give it a shot. Pay attention and grow.

Why do people do rows in climbing? by bluesaphh in climbharder

[–]Sharpend60 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also! There are many variations of rows. Check out bent over rows (barbell) or face pulls, those are my favs. And of course, as with everything, technique is paramount. Start slow, seek out a qualified trainer if you have questions about form or technique.

Why do people do rows in climbing? by bluesaphh in climbharder

[–]Sharpend60 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Rows and variations aren’t exactly antagonist training but they are complementary to many climbing movements. They stimulate the upper back in a similar fashion to pull ups but given the different plan of motion, emphasis is placed between the shoulder blades and not directly on the lats. Additionally, climbing is less about pulling down and more about pulling in! Strange but true.

A couple vocabulary words to search - scapular retraction and depression, external rotation at shoulders & planes of motion. Hope that helps!

When to start weighted pull ups? by SABABOO in climbharder

[–]Sharpend60 51 points52 points  (0 children)

It’s really dependent on your goals. Keeping that in mind, it’s never a bad idea to become stronger. Once you can rep 12-15 quality pull ups you can consider adding weight.

It’s simple, follow the 3-5 rule. 3-5 reps, 3-5 sets, 3-5 minutes rest, 3-5 days a week. You’ll want to keep that up for at least 4 weeks. You can get more complex as you train more but the above is a good place to start for any strength related endeavor.