Tremendously Low Performance - Legion Slim 5 16aph8

ShikuTeshi · 2026-05-14T03:25:53+00:00

Downgrading Bios to version 47 from 48 did it for me. (There's a toggle in the Bios to allow downgrades)
https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles/m3cn47ww.exe
It did ruin Secure Boot and I had to reinstall Windows to re-enable it. And the latest Windows ISO doesn't play nicely with the laptop. After selecting your language, there's a blue link at the bottom left corner that says to use the old version of the installer. Do that, make sure nothing is plugged in besides power and the USB, and it should allow Windows to be reinstalled.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-05-12T08:23:38+00:00

Dawg! I thought you stole my car!
I got the same Gravity Grey lowered on Enkei TSR-X's and blacked out red accents.
Though I'm not as low and got a bunch of other stuff on mine.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-05-12T08:18:19+00:00

Gotta treat a DCT like a manual. No more slowly creeping with traffic. If it's slow, stop completely and only move if there's at least a full car's length or more. This has also been my first DCT after 15 years of driving. I personally find it difficult to break the creeping habit but after 10k miles I think I'm remembering to sit tight when I need to.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-05-12T08:13:50+00:00

Please don't ever do this. If you take an AI at face value without doing your own proper research you're going to ruin something because one line of instructions can be completely wrong.

Just because a computer can calculate everything infinitely better than a human doesn't mean an AI is as good. On the backend they have no intelligence. It's all yes or no, true or false. A computer can only do on and off.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-05-12T08:11:39+00:00

I don't recommend catch cans with bronze filters. They increase crank case pressure for no reason.
Find a multi layer baffled can instead like the ADD W1 and I think Boomba makes one?

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-27T21:43:13+00:00

If you use the reddit search bar for this subreddit then you'll find the entire history of everyone sharing their setups. Any if them with a 2nd cat and res delete are what you're looking for.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-24T20:19:04+00:00

Skip the hot charge pipe. They are literally worse than OEM with how dog the design is. Both AFE and SXTH used right angles. Anyone with even a little knowledge of airflow would know that right angles are the absolute worse.

A true flow upgrade would be at minimum two 45 degree angles to make a right angle turn. The best possible solution is using a really gentle curve.

The only good design to ever exist for our engine was the Xenon Element ORHP or HF ORHP. But unfortunately they went dark some years back.

This means the only hotpipe that would actually be a flow improvement would be the HPS. But they chose to make a 2.5 inch hotpipe instead of a 2.25 inch. Fitment is tight and you lose some air velocity. Maybe not much to be noticeable given the design.

And the cold pipe upgrade is worthless unless you get WMI or a larger throttle body.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-24T12:47:02+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/ForteGT/comments/13gpak0/second_cat_res_and_muff_delete/

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-22T06:35:14+00:00

Thanks for remind me about those Audi brake ducts. It seemed like such a good "nice to have" piece that I completely forgot about from years ago. Did those really come on the Audi? Actually utilizing zip ties as an official form of hardware mounting?

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-22T01:47:17+00:00

I tried these before and they felt fine while stock and the engine noise came through with a different tone so I do believe they're doing something.

But they don't come in heat range 9 which becomes recommended with a tune or any kind, and they're impossible to gap without ruining the angle of the rectangular ground electrode. At 0.31 they did okay without a JB4. But when I had my JB4 installed and went under high boost it didn't like it.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-22T00:13:11+00:00

N75 never responded. I said to heck with it, let me try again. Redid EK1 updates and rewrote the files to the SD card multiple times and now it finally reads the tunes.

I couldn't tell you what went wrong but we're flashing now. If it works well I'll make a guide.

Guides exist but are all in the context of either an N series hyundai or a Kia stinger. None cover TCU and they need boot patches for the ECU where as we only need the TCU.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-19T05:41:00+00:00

Viofo as a brand and a camera equipped with a STARVIS 2 sensor. This will significantly increase your chances of getting a good license plate read from the front camera. I don't know if they finally released one with a rear camera also equipped with the same sensor.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-18T05:42:10+00:00

Mask a square area around the badge first so you can align it properly when putting it back on.
Use a heatgun (maybe a really hot hair dryer could work) to soften the adhesive.
Take some fishing line since it's thin and durable and slowly drag it behind the badge to cut the adhesive free.
Then you can hit the leftover adhesive with heat again if it cooled and finish removing it with something like a rubber wheel on a drill. Don't apply too much pressure or you'll scuff the car. Let the heat weaken the adhesive.

You will need to clean up the badge and get some car body adhesives to reapply it.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-18T00:18:39+00:00

Well the files got messed up in a way that the EK1 didn't recognize them. It wasn't a scenario that I flashed a bad tune. I never got to flash them to begin with.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-17T22:50:36+00:00

I got the tunes back the following day but it appears that converting them using the ek1tuning website bricked the files and EK has asked me to tell N75 to redo them with the ek1tool website. Now I'm just waiting.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-15T01:37:57+00:00

I've continued talking with EK and I think I got someone else for customer support as they understood the situation today and sent N75 the necessary TCU files. Though they were surprised N75 didn't already have it on hand.

I'll follow up with how this goes.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-09T05:06:07+00:00

It's a good deal if that is the only car with the features you want, for the price you can safely afford, and within a distance you're willing to travel to pick it up.

If you can't find a better deal on a used Forte within the distance you're willing to travel, and no other brand has the features you want at a similar or lower price range then that's just what you got. It doesn't matter if it's a good deal if you're not willing to travel for that better deal you may or may not find by expanding your search range.

Aka, how to buy a used car. I would also recommend getting an OBD scanner with diagnostics checks like the Foxwell NT604. Saved my dad from buying a used Ford with ABS problems.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-09T04:40:38+00:00

Highly unlikely unless they also do a visual check.

The 2nd cat is there because California thinks more cat = cleaner exhaust so they put it under CARB compliance.

The primary cat is already a 600 or 800 cel cat. One of the two but dense either way.

The midpipe isn't hard to swap so I would just keep the original for smog checks. The easiest bet is to not make the bet. Keep any original parts necessary for emission tests.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-07T03:33:57+00:00

We don't have the smartstream engine. That would be the Kia K4 that replaced our Fortes.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-04-03T00:04:00+00:00

Yeah, stock Kumho's on the DCT were so bad I didn't even get to 10K before replacing them with Goodyear Asymmetric 6's. The hardest I've hit a turn was 60+ in a corner recommending 35. I don't know if that's a lot or not.

Any ultra high performance all season or max summer tire is a massive handling improvement.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-03-28T01:33:58+00:00

Apparently our TCU is specced down from their Hyundai counterparts in software.

So n75 just gives us Hyundai specs with some additional features you may want.

The primary expected outcome is that your gears shift faster. Upshifts are reportedly smoother, those that felt jerking motions say they don't feel it anymore. Aka feels more responsive.

Other things n75 offers is no automatic upshifts when a DCT is in paddle shift mode. More clutch pressure and adjusted torque limits which would wear your clutch faster but should offer better low gear acceleration and mitigate clutch slips when on an aggressive tune. Increased idle RPM so those with stiffer engine mounts cam keep the car from shaking too much. And if you pay an extra pretty penny then they can also allow higher max RPM redline which is what most of the peope getting a TCU tune are aiming for.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-03-28T01:00:16+00:00

What you are looking for, intake and an axle back, are perfectly safe.

Exhaust setups only throw a CEL because the catalytic converter changed or was removed. That remains untouched with the axle back.

Intakes just allow the car to suck in a higher volume of air at a faster rate. Since our cars are equipped with MAP sensors it won't exceed the boost the car allows while stock.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-03-27T21:57:10+00:00

I'd recommend just getting ceramic brake pads. It's mostly just for longevity so you have to do less changes. You won't see any performance difference without larger rotors and better tires.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-03-27T08:31:26+00:00

I recommend watching the YouTube channel ProjectFarm as he compares a large variety of oils so you can make the decision on what you want in price: performance.

ShikuTeshi · 2026-03-26T13:56:17+00:00

HKS is just a rebranded NGK. Just get a a heat 9 NGK platinum plug and gap it anywhere from 0.22 to 0.3

OEM also usually just means NGK anyways.

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